Trip Report 8/2005 Venice, Florence, Siena, Montalcino, Milan
Aug 27th, 2005, 10:18 AM
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Trip Report 8/2005 Venice, Florence, Siena, Montalcino, Milan
Just back last night, and what a great trip. Many thanks to all the great posts here that made so much of it possible. Specific thanks to Stu Dudley for his driving tour of Tuscany dated 2/25/05, which while we did not follow, gave me the inertia to do some touring of the area around Montalcino.
My report focuses on the logistics, more than restaurants, sights and museums.
I have to say that touring these locations in Italy is a wonderful experience. I would not change a single thing about the trip other that to possibly add a day in Venice, Montalcino, specifically to allow more time to tour Tuscany, and Milan. If you can afford an extra week or two - go for it. We were a family of 7, aged 16 to 70.
Here goes -
Left JFK to Malpensa, arriving 10:00am in Milan. Upon arrival, in baggage claim (horrible rate - wait to get to bank in Venice for more), changed about $100 into Euro for miscellaneous expenses. Took shuttle bus for 5 Euro to Stazione Centrale, caught the 1:05 IC train to Venice - Santa Lucia. Did not pre-book any train travel. Arrived in Venice at 3:00pm and took Vaporetto number 1 to stop Ca' Rezzonico. This all went like clock-work which was fortunate since it was a very long journey. We chose to fly in and out of Milan because that was the only way we could get 7 frequent flyer tickets that fit our schedules.
In Venice we stayed at the Hotel Pausania in Dorsoduro for 3 nights. It was really a great place and a great location, but had narrow, steep stairs if that is a problem for anyone. The hotel is on a small quiet canal and about an easy 15 minute walk to San Marcos. The cost for a triple room was 160 Euro, and their email is [email protected].
We checked out at about 11:00 am and took the 12:32 ES train to Florence. Taxi to Hotel Loggiato dei Serviti - a 15th century restored Convent. Lovely place with excellent service and great breakfast. Hotel is on a plaza where there is loud music at night until 11:45 pm. This did not bother me, but you should know this in advance. I would highly recommend this hotel and the cost was 145 Euro per night for a triple. Their email is [email protected]. The hotel is in a great location - 3 blocks from from the Duomo, with most other sites within about 8 blocks. The back yard and window view is of the glass dome covering the David (unfortunatley you cannot see the David through the glass). The church in the square is also beautiful, and should not be missed.
Next, we checked out of the hotel and took a taxi to the Avis rental car office near the train station. Avis gave me the best rates by far on rentals - $143.71 for a Fiat Punto Deisel for 2 days, plus about $30 for insurance which was mandatory to avoid a 9,000 Euro deposit for the car. We got 2 cars which were pretty stuffed with all seven plus our luggage. The cars had to be back within 48 hours otherwise we had to pay for an extra day - no hourly charge. Do not plan to drive much in Florence, and have Avis give directions out as well as back in for the return. Driving outside of Florence was easy, except for Siena.
If anyone can help, we got parking tickets in Siena for 35 Euro each because we did not realize that parking was metered at the end of the street. We tried to pay the ticket in the Milan post office, but they said it was not possible - now we are back home - how can we pay?
Our trip from Florence to Siena was about an hour and a half, on the main highway (A1 I believe). We only planned to spend the afternoon in Siena, which I believe was the right amount of time. There were a lot of tourist there, but it is still a nice place to walk around and have lunch. The Duomo is currently having a facelift and you cannot see the front as it is covered by a large sheet.
At about 5:00 we were back in the cars heading for Montalcino. I had no idea how beautifuly this would be, but you see the hill town from several miles away and begin thinking about how cool this will be. In Montalcino, we stayed at the Hotel Il Giglio, which is a family run hotel and all rooms have panoramic views that went on for miles and miles - it was beautiful beyond my wildist expectations. The town was also beautiful with one long main street with great shops and restaurants, and several back streets that are perfect for photos and walking. The restaurant at the hotel is really good as well. Their email is [email protected], and the cost of the triple was 100 euro per night. We stayed there for 2 nights.
On the second day, we jumped in the car and took a circular route (about 4 hours including a long lunch) through S. Antimo, MonteAmiata, Ansidonia, Castiglione d'Orcia, S. Quirico, back to Montalcino. We had a nice dinner in Montalcino.
The next day we departed around 8:30 am for Florence to return the cars and catch a train for Milan. We were able to get the 12:14 ES train and arrived in Milan at 3:00 pm. We stayed at the Antica Locanda Leonardo (email - [email protected]) which required a taxi ride from Stazione Centrale, but put us within walking distance to the Cadorna Station which is where you can catch the Malpensa Express train to the airport. The hotel was really nice, kind of funky, and was 1/2 block from the large pedestrian shopping area, and about 10 minutes of leisurely walking to the Duomo (which is also cover on the front, getting a facelift, but still beautiful from the other sides. The cost was 205 Euro for the triple, and we only stayed for one night as we were flying out the next day at 12:20 pm. The walk to Cadorna turned out to be about 10 minutes, and the trains run every 30 minutes and take 40 minutes to get to MXP - we took the 9:57 train. The room was really nice, and had a cool terrace with bamboo plants providing privacy.
On the trip, I brought a digital camera and took about 300 pictures on a 512 MB card. I though all locations were outstanding, and each quite different, which really provided a great view of Italy. I also had an International Driver's licence, not required by Avis, but recommended in the event that you are stopped by the police.
Ask for Italian coffee - this is the real stuff made with espresso. Eat bacon (pancetta), prosuitto, pizza, wild bore and at least one gelato a day - all excellent. Hope this helps someone, and have a great time.
Bob
My report focuses on the logistics, more than restaurants, sights and museums.
I have to say that touring these locations in Italy is a wonderful experience. I would not change a single thing about the trip other that to possibly add a day in Venice, Montalcino, specifically to allow more time to tour Tuscany, and Milan. If you can afford an extra week or two - go for it. We were a family of 7, aged 16 to 70.
Here goes -
Left JFK to Malpensa, arriving 10:00am in Milan. Upon arrival, in baggage claim (horrible rate - wait to get to bank in Venice for more), changed about $100 into Euro for miscellaneous expenses. Took shuttle bus for 5 Euro to Stazione Centrale, caught the 1:05 IC train to Venice - Santa Lucia. Did not pre-book any train travel. Arrived in Venice at 3:00pm and took Vaporetto number 1 to stop Ca' Rezzonico. This all went like clock-work which was fortunate since it was a very long journey. We chose to fly in and out of Milan because that was the only way we could get 7 frequent flyer tickets that fit our schedules.
In Venice we stayed at the Hotel Pausania in Dorsoduro for 3 nights. It was really a great place and a great location, but had narrow, steep stairs if that is a problem for anyone. The hotel is on a small quiet canal and about an easy 15 minute walk to San Marcos. The cost for a triple room was 160 Euro, and their email is [email protected].
We checked out at about 11:00 am and took the 12:32 ES train to Florence. Taxi to Hotel Loggiato dei Serviti - a 15th century restored Convent. Lovely place with excellent service and great breakfast. Hotel is on a plaza where there is loud music at night until 11:45 pm. This did not bother me, but you should know this in advance. I would highly recommend this hotel and the cost was 145 Euro per night for a triple. Their email is [email protected]. The hotel is in a great location - 3 blocks from from the Duomo, with most other sites within about 8 blocks. The back yard and window view is of the glass dome covering the David (unfortunatley you cannot see the David through the glass). The church in the square is also beautiful, and should not be missed.
Next, we checked out of the hotel and took a taxi to the Avis rental car office near the train station. Avis gave me the best rates by far on rentals - $143.71 for a Fiat Punto Deisel for 2 days, plus about $30 for insurance which was mandatory to avoid a 9,000 Euro deposit for the car. We got 2 cars which were pretty stuffed with all seven plus our luggage. The cars had to be back within 48 hours otherwise we had to pay for an extra day - no hourly charge. Do not plan to drive much in Florence, and have Avis give directions out as well as back in for the return. Driving outside of Florence was easy, except for Siena.
If anyone can help, we got parking tickets in Siena for 35 Euro each because we did not realize that parking was metered at the end of the street. We tried to pay the ticket in the Milan post office, but they said it was not possible - now we are back home - how can we pay?
Our trip from Florence to Siena was about an hour and a half, on the main highway (A1 I believe). We only planned to spend the afternoon in Siena, which I believe was the right amount of time. There were a lot of tourist there, but it is still a nice place to walk around and have lunch. The Duomo is currently having a facelift and you cannot see the front as it is covered by a large sheet.
At about 5:00 we were back in the cars heading for Montalcino. I had no idea how beautifuly this would be, but you see the hill town from several miles away and begin thinking about how cool this will be. In Montalcino, we stayed at the Hotel Il Giglio, which is a family run hotel and all rooms have panoramic views that went on for miles and miles - it was beautiful beyond my wildist expectations. The town was also beautiful with one long main street with great shops and restaurants, and several back streets that are perfect for photos and walking. The restaurant at the hotel is really good as well. Their email is [email protected], and the cost of the triple was 100 euro per night. We stayed there for 2 nights.
On the second day, we jumped in the car and took a circular route (about 4 hours including a long lunch) through S. Antimo, MonteAmiata, Ansidonia, Castiglione d'Orcia, S. Quirico, back to Montalcino. We had a nice dinner in Montalcino.
The next day we departed around 8:30 am for Florence to return the cars and catch a train for Milan. We were able to get the 12:14 ES train and arrived in Milan at 3:00 pm. We stayed at the Antica Locanda Leonardo (email - [email protected]) which required a taxi ride from Stazione Centrale, but put us within walking distance to the Cadorna Station which is where you can catch the Malpensa Express train to the airport. The hotel was really nice, kind of funky, and was 1/2 block from the large pedestrian shopping area, and about 10 minutes of leisurely walking to the Duomo (which is also cover on the front, getting a facelift, but still beautiful from the other sides. The cost was 205 Euro for the triple, and we only stayed for one night as we were flying out the next day at 12:20 pm. The walk to Cadorna turned out to be about 10 minutes, and the trains run every 30 minutes and take 40 minutes to get to MXP - we took the 9:57 train. The room was really nice, and had a cool terrace with bamboo plants providing privacy.
On the trip, I brought a digital camera and took about 300 pictures on a 512 MB card. I though all locations were outstanding, and each quite different, which really provided a great view of Italy. I also had an International Driver's licence, not required by Avis, but recommended in the event that you are stopped by the police.
Ask for Italian coffee - this is the real stuff made with espresso. Eat bacon (pancetta), prosuitto, pizza, wild bore and at least one gelato a day - all excellent. Hope this helps someone, and have a great time.
Bob
Aug 27th, 2005, 12:00 PM
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Hello rjkritzer, I am amazed you were up to such a good and informative trip report after just returning home last night. You are amazing. I am usually like a zombie for two days!
Your trip sounds delightful, and imagine you will return to Italy in the future as you sound like you really enjoyed yourself.
About the parking ticket. Can you contact the auto rental co. about this? I "think" that since you had a rental car that they will be contacted and end up paying the parking ticket and then bill you via whatever credit card you used to rent to car. Have never received a ticket in Italy (thank goodness) but I think I read here on Fodor's that is how it works. Hopefully someone with experience can advise you.
Thank you for sharing your trip. Best wishes.
Your trip sounds delightful, and imagine you will return to Italy in the future as you sound like you really enjoyed yourself.
About the parking ticket. Can you contact the auto rental co. about this? I "think" that since you had a rental car that they will be contacted and end up paying the parking ticket and then bill you via whatever credit card you used to rent to car. Have never received a ticket in Italy (thank goodness) but I think I read here on Fodor's that is how it works. Hopefully someone with experience can advise you.
Thank you for sharing your trip. Best wishes.
Aug 27th, 2005, 06:21 PM
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Hi Bob,
Sounds like your family had a lovely trip! Thanks for the concise report.
Question: I'll be staying at Il Giglio in a couple of weeks and wondered how easy it is to find in Montalcino? Is it on the one main street?
Grazie!
Sounds like your family had a lovely trip! Thanks for the concise report.
Question: I'll be staying at Il Giglio in a couple of weeks and wondered how easy it is to find in Montalcino? Is it on the one main street?
Grazie!
Aug 28th, 2005, 05:47 AM
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Dayle,
Il Giglio is somewhat easy to find. It is on the main street which is the first road choice as you approach the town. The main street is a very narrow road, and the hotel is marked only by a small sign that says Restaurant Il Giglio. You should try to park on the right just before the hotel, as there is a small space where the road is wider. The hotel staff will park your car after you unload.
The hotel comes up fairly soon after driving on the main road. It is at the end of the second "block" on the right hand side.
Enjoy!
Il Giglio is somewhat easy to find. It is on the main street which is the first road choice as you approach the town. The main street is a very narrow road, and the hotel is marked only by a small sign that says Restaurant Il Giglio. You should try to park on the right just before the hotel, as there is a small space where the road is wider. The hotel staff will park your car after you unload.
The hotel comes up fairly soon after driving on the main road. It is at the end of the second "block" on the right hand side.
Enjoy!
Aug 28th, 2005, 06:21 AM
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Thanks so much, Bob. That is exactly the info I was hoping for. Knowing what the hilltowns are like (drove in Montepulciano once by mistake), I was debating wether to park and walk into town to find it.
thanks again!
thanks again!
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