Trip Report: 2 Weeks in Alsace & Lyon
Jan 2nd, 2005, 10:41 AM
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Trip Report: 2 Weeks in Alsace & Lyon
Happy New Year, everyone! Decided I'd better do this trip report on Alsace before I take the next trip (to the Dordogne, which I'm already working on).
I flew to France on October 17, returning to U.S. October 31. My American flight from Miami was overbooked, and they were offering $700 to any 3 people willing to take the next (soon)flight to London,then to Paris. I was tempted! But couldn't, as I had an Air France flight connection to Strasbourg, and thought I'd be pressed for time as it was. I really think I might have accepted the offer if I had been staying in Paris. Oh, well...
My flight arrived a little early, fortunately, as I floundered around CDG searching for my Air France flight - very confusing airport for connecting. The AF flight was delayed about an hour - they kept announcing "mechanical problems being worked on" - which made me a little nervous. Anyway, arrived at the lovely Strasbourg airport and easily found the "Airport Navette", which takes you to the tram to the City Centre. SO easy, I thought, as I descended the tram at the Homme de Fer tramstop, supposedly near my hotel. Well, NOT so easy finding the hotel, as I walked around in circles for what seemed like an hour looking for the hotel. Of course I asked several people, who seemed to get me headed in the right direction, and then I would end up right back at Homme de Fer!
I finally found the Hotel d'Europe, which is in the Petite France section of Strasbourg, checked in, then walked around town, had a late lunch/early dinner at a cafe at Place Kleber and then crashed by 8:30. The hotel was very nice and I liked the location. Room was a loft-type with beams, quite cozy and comfortable, with large bathroom. At first I was a little dismayed at the lack of amenities in the bath, and couldn't even find any soap. The soap/gel/shampoo was in a dispenser thing attached to the wall. The hotel has a lovely breakfast room with nice buffet - and the young woman at reception was extremely helpful, recommending great restaurants for my 2 dinners.
The first morning I headed for the Cathedral
first thing (and got lost of course!), after buying a "Strasbourg Pass", which was worth the 10.60 euros. I really loved Strasbourg, and was so glad I decided to spend 2 full days there, as there is much to see. The Cathedral is beautiful and interesting, and I enjoyed the Musee d'Oeuvre Notre Dame. Took the "Petite Tourist Train" (it's always good to sit down for awhile), and it helps to orient oneself to the city. I did much walking that day, and was really tired by dinnertime. The receptionist recommended an absolutely darling little restaurant right in back of the hotel, which was just perfect.
I must say, I immediately fell in love with the Alsacian cuisine! I really hadn't expected to be crazy about the food on this trip, but it was wonderful everywhere.
The next day in Strasbourg I went to the museums at the Palais Rohan, the "Musee Alsacian" (my favorite, in a fascinating old house), walked around Petite France, and took the boat ride. I highly recommend that, as it takes you on the river to parts of Strasbourg that you wouldn't see otherwise.
In the late afternoon I walked to the train station from hotel to check out Avis, etc. where I was picking up car the next day. And had a delightful dinner in Petite France that night. It was a little rainy and dreary those 2 1/2 days in Strasbourg, but I didn't mind at all, as I loved the city.
The next day was a beautiful, sunny fall day, perfect for my drive to Ottrott. I'm always nervous about driving out of big cities, but this was a breeze from the train station. However, I would definitely NOT want to drive around in Strasbourg proper - that would be a nightmare. I walked to the train station to get car, then found the route to Marlenheim, which is the start of the Route des Vins from the north. My hotel in Ottrott (a small village near Obernai) was the Hotel L'Ami Fritz. I was staying here for the next 2 nights. Would have been longer, but they were booked up. I absolutely loved this hotel. It's very popular with Germans, and has a wonderful restaurant. Ottrott was a perfect village to stay in, with beautiful walks in all directions. I found this hotel through some recommendations on this forum, and also Karen Brown's guide.
The next day, gorgeous, cool, and SUNNY for my drive up to Mont St. Odile, (very interesting with beautiful views) then to Obernai. It's lovely with central square and picturesque old houses. I had lunch there in restaurant in the old covered market building, Halles des Bles. Then back to the hotel and a walk before dinner. I had the demi-pension, which was a bargain, but I wouldn't do again, as you have no choices. It was good, but I'm sure not as good as the menu!
Next day, check out of hotel and head for my next hotel in Kaysersberg. So lucky, still gorgeous weather for my "driving" days. I meandered down the beautiful Route des Vins, stopping in Dambach la Ville to look around, then to Haut Koenigburg Chateau. That was a wonderful place, so interesting with beautiful views. Then back on the Route des Vins, which was very slow driving, as there were many German and French tourists out on this beautiful weekend. Hotel in Kaysersberg was Les Remparts, which I had a heck of a time finding! It was OK, but nothing like L'Ami Fritz, and I didn't like the woman running it, who wasn't very helpful. Kaysersberg itself is lovely, though, and I enjoyed basing there for 3 more days to visit more villages. Riquewihr is fun and pretty, but of course very touristy. I loved the "Cigoyne (stork) Restoration Centre" in Hunawihr. Best dinner in Kaysersberg was at La Vielle Forge, which I saw in the Michelin Green Guide.
Last day in Alsace - drove to Colmar, checked in to hotel right across from train station, the Bristol, and returned car to Avis. This hotel was great, with wonderful service and a nice restaurant. It's one of those big, old train station hotels, which has been restored, and is now a Great Western. And it worked out perfectly for my last night, and my day in Colmar. Colmar was worth a day to see the Underlinden Museum and the spectacular Isenheim Altarpiece. Also enjoyed seeing Petite Venise, and the old churches, etc. If given a choice between Strasbourg and Colmar, I would definitely pick Strasbourg - but I'm glad I had time for both.
I really enjoyed these 9 days in Alsace, the scenery, food were fantastic. I would have preferred seeing the villages without so many tourists and traffic, but that would probably only be in winter! I saw virtually no Americans, mostly Germans, some French and a few English.
My next destination - Lyon for 3 days, but I'll finish that part later.
I flew to France on October 17, returning to U.S. October 31. My American flight from Miami was overbooked, and they were offering $700 to any 3 people willing to take the next (soon)flight to London,then to Paris. I was tempted! But couldn't, as I had an Air France flight connection to Strasbourg, and thought I'd be pressed for time as it was. I really think I might have accepted the offer if I had been staying in Paris. Oh, well...
My flight arrived a little early, fortunately, as I floundered around CDG searching for my Air France flight - very confusing airport for connecting. The AF flight was delayed about an hour - they kept announcing "mechanical problems being worked on" - which made me a little nervous. Anyway, arrived at the lovely Strasbourg airport and easily found the "Airport Navette", which takes you to the tram to the City Centre. SO easy, I thought, as I descended the tram at the Homme de Fer tramstop, supposedly near my hotel. Well, NOT so easy finding the hotel, as I walked around in circles for what seemed like an hour looking for the hotel. Of course I asked several people, who seemed to get me headed in the right direction, and then I would end up right back at Homme de Fer!
I finally found the Hotel d'Europe, which is in the Petite France section of Strasbourg, checked in, then walked around town, had a late lunch/early dinner at a cafe at Place Kleber and then crashed by 8:30. The hotel was very nice and I liked the location. Room was a loft-type with beams, quite cozy and comfortable, with large bathroom. At first I was a little dismayed at the lack of amenities in the bath, and couldn't even find any soap. The soap/gel/shampoo was in a dispenser thing attached to the wall. The hotel has a lovely breakfast room with nice buffet - and the young woman at reception was extremely helpful, recommending great restaurants for my 2 dinners.
The first morning I headed for the Cathedral
first thing (and got lost of course!), after buying a "Strasbourg Pass", which was worth the 10.60 euros. I really loved Strasbourg, and was so glad I decided to spend 2 full days there, as there is much to see. The Cathedral is beautiful and interesting, and I enjoyed the Musee d'Oeuvre Notre Dame. Took the "Petite Tourist Train" (it's always good to sit down for awhile), and it helps to orient oneself to the city. I did much walking that day, and was really tired by dinnertime. The receptionist recommended an absolutely darling little restaurant right in back of the hotel, which was just perfect.
I must say, I immediately fell in love with the Alsacian cuisine! I really hadn't expected to be crazy about the food on this trip, but it was wonderful everywhere.
The next day in Strasbourg I went to the museums at the Palais Rohan, the "Musee Alsacian" (my favorite, in a fascinating old house), walked around Petite France, and took the boat ride. I highly recommend that, as it takes you on the river to parts of Strasbourg that you wouldn't see otherwise.
In the late afternoon I walked to the train station from hotel to check out Avis, etc. where I was picking up car the next day. And had a delightful dinner in Petite France that night. It was a little rainy and dreary those 2 1/2 days in Strasbourg, but I didn't mind at all, as I loved the city.
The next day was a beautiful, sunny fall day, perfect for my drive to Ottrott. I'm always nervous about driving out of big cities, but this was a breeze from the train station. However, I would definitely NOT want to drive around in Strasbourg proper - that would be a nightmare. I walked to the train station to get car, then found the route to Marlenheim, which is the start of the Route des Vins from the north. My hotel in Ottrott (a small village near Obernai) was the Hotel L'Ami Fritz. I was staying here for the next 2 nights. Would have been longer, but they were booked up. I absolutely loved this hotel. It's very popular with Germans, and has a wonderful restaurant. Ottrott was a perfect village to stay in, with beautiful walks in all directions. I found this hotel through some recommendations on this forum, and also Karen Brown's guide.
The next day, gorgeous, cool, and SUNNY for my drive up to Mont St. Odile, (very interesting with beautiful views) then to Obernai. It's lovely with central square and picturesque old houses. I had lunch there in restaurant in the old covered market building, Halles des Bles. Then back to the hotel and a walk before dinner. I had the demi-pension, which was a bargain, but I wouldn't do again, as you have no choices. It was good, but I'm sure not as good as the menu!
Next day, check out of hotel and head for my next hotel in Kaysersberg. So lucky, still gorgeous weather for my "driving" days. I meandered down the beautiful Route des Vins, stopping in Dambach la Ville to look around, then to Haut Koenigburg Chateau. That was a wonderful place, so interesting with beautiful views. Then back on the Route des Vins, which was very slow driving, as there were many German and French tourists out on this beautiful weekend. Hotel in Kaysersberg was Les Remparts, which I had a heck of a time finding! It was OK, but nothing like L'Ami Fritz, and I didn't like the woman running it, who wasn't very helpful. Kaysersberg itself is lovely, though, and I enjoyed basing there for 3 more days to visit more villages. Riquewihr is fun and pretty, but of course very touristy. I loved the "Cigoyne (stork) Restoration Centre" in Hunawihr. Best dinner in Kaysersberg was at La Vielle Forge, which I saw in the Michelin Green Guide.
Last day in Alsace - drove to Colmar, checked in to hotel right across from train station, the Bristol, and returned car to Avis. This hotel was great, with wonderful service and a nice restaurant. It's one of those big, old train station hotels, which has been restored, and is now a Great Western. And it worked out perfectly for my last night, and my day in Colmar. Colmar was worth a day to see the Underlinden Museum and the spectacular Isenheim Altarpiece. Also enjoyed seeing Petite Venise, and the old churches, etc. If given a choice between Strasbourg and Colmar, I would definitely pick Strasbourg - but I'm glad I had time for both.
I really enjoyed these 9 days in Alsace, the scenery, food were fantastic. I would have preferred seeing the villages without so many tourists and traffic, but that would probably only be in winter! I saw virtually no Americans, mostly Germans, some French and a few English.
My next destination - Lyon for 3 days, but I'll finish that part later.
Jan 2nd, 2005, 04:40 PM
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Ira, I'm going to the Dordogne in May. I started planning almost as soon as I got back from this trip! That's why I haven't gotten around to this until now.
Susanna, if you have any questions before your trip, I'll be glad to answer. And St.Knicks, yes, the l'Ami Fritz was just great. The room was really lovely, too - a standard. I would love to go back there.
Well, to Lyon. I walked across the street to Colmar station (the Bristol served my purpose perfectly) and took an 8:45 A.M. train to Lyon, arriving at 1:45. The 5 hours seemed to fly by, and the scenery was beautiful. It made me wish I had taken the train to Strasbourg from Paris instead of flying.
For the first time I bought a 1st class train ticket, and it was definitely worth it! Not that much more, but way more comfortable for a longer ride - I had the car practically to myself, while the coach looked very crowded.
Once in Lyon, I decided to walk to my hotel (Hotel des Artistes) instead of taxi. Doable, but taxi would have been better with the suitcase, etc.
At first I was disappointed with the room (very small, standard double), but I got used to it, and the hotel is so well-located that would make up for any shortcoming otherwise. However, if I had been with anybody else, a bigger room would have been in order! I don't think 2 suitcases would have fit in this room. But the bed was comfortable, and place was very quiet at night. Also, nice bathroom. That afternoon I walked over to Place Bellecour to Tourist Office & bought guidebook, checked out restaurants around, and window shopped. Lyon has some wonderful looking shops. Had dinner at Le Comptoir du Marroniers on rue Marronier.
Great dinner, inexpensive. That's one of Jean Paul Lacombe's bistrots. Had delicious mushroom flan & salade verte, canard with curry & rice & warm apples with ice cream for dessert. Great!
Next day I walked across bridge to Vieux Lyon and spent practically the whole day over there sightseeing - stopping at one point at Les Andrets to make dinner reservation. Was packed at lunchtime when I stopped, and again at dinner. Reservations are definitely needed there, but other places seem OK if you arrive early. Every place is packed by 8:00, though. Dinner was delicious - more expensive than the bistrot, though, but still not bad.
Next day walked to Place Terreaux and did the Beaux Arts Museum, window shopped, bought shoes, saw several churches in guidebook. It was raining most of the day. I never got around to some of the other museums I wanted to see. My only disappointment was dinner at Le Merciere, a well-known bistrot on rue Merciere. Extremely tough lamb, but the Frenchwoman sitting next to me ate hers down to the bone, with gusto! I would definitely not eat there again, and I wish I had tried another bistrot of Jean Paul Lacombe's. Oh, well, next time.
My last day in Lyon was beautiful and sunny, so took a walk to the Musee des Tissus & Musee Decoratif, both beautiful mansions worth seeing. Had a very good salad lunch at Brasserie d'Espace on Place Bellecour. Then took a taxi to Gare Part Dieu for my afternoon train to CDG, arriving at the Marriott Courtyard around 6:30. This is a terrific CDG hotel, was my 3rd stay there. However, you have to search for bargain prices, which do come up.
All in all, the trip was great, and I was glad I stayed long enough in Alsace to have a little relaxation. Also, 3 nights in Lyon was just about right to see most things. On the whole, I enjoyed the food more in Alsace, which surprised me. This was my 4th solo trip to France (besides other trips to Paris) where I rented car to drive around,and it has been wonderful each time. The French people are extremely helpful, in fact most go out of their way. Any of you women out there trying to get up the courage to do it alone, I say, go for it! I've taken tours, gone with other person, family, etc. - but this is my favorite way. Where everything is MY way! Can't wait to go back to France in May.
Susanna, if you have any questions before your trip, I'll be glad to answer. And St.Knicks, yes, the l'Ami Fritz was just great. The room was really lovely, too - a standard. I would love to go back there.
Well, to Lyon. I walked across the street to Colmar station (the Bristol served my purpose perfectly) and took an 8:45 A.M. train to Lyon, arriving at 1:45. The 5 hours seemed to fly by, and the scenery was beautiful. It made me wish I had taken the train to Strasbourg from Paris instead of flying.
For the first time I bought a 1st class train ticket, and it was definitely worth it! Not that much more, but way more comfortable for a longer ride - I had the car practically to myself, while the coach looked very crowded.
Once in Lyon, I decided to walk to my hotel (Hotel des Artistes) instead of taxi. Doable, but taxi would have been better with the suitcase, etc.
At first I was disappointed with the room (very small, standard double), but I got used to it, and the hotel is so well-located that would make up for any shortcoming otherwise. However, if I had been with anybody else, a bigger room would have been in order! I don't think 2 suitcases would have fit in this room. But the bed was comfortable, and place was very quiet at night. Also, nice bathroom. That afternoon I walked over to Place Bellecour to Tourist Office & bought guidebook, checked out restaurants around, and window shopped. Lyon has some wonderful looking shops. Had dinner at Le Comptoir du Marroniers on rue Marronier.
Great dinner, inexpensive. That's one of Jean Paul Lacombe's bistrots. Had delicious mushroom flan & salade verte, canard with curry & rice & warm apples with ice cream for dessert. Great!
Next day I walked across bridge to Vieux Lyon and spent practically the whole day over there sightseeing - stopping at one point at Les Andrets to make dinner reservation. Was packed at lunchtime when I stopped, and again at dinner. Reservations are definitely needed there, but other places seem OK if you arrive early. Every place is packed by 8:00, though. Dinner was delicious - more expensive than the bistrot, though, but still not bad.
Next day walked to Place Terreaux and did the Beaux Arts Museum, window shopped, bought shoes, saw several churches in guidebook. It was raining most of the day. I never got around to some of the other museums I wanted to see. My only disappointment was dinner at Le Merciere, a well-known bistrot on rue Merciere. Extremely tough lamb, but the Frenchwoman sitting next to me ate hers down to the bone, with gusto! I would definitely not eat there again, and I wish I had tried another bistrot of Jean Paul Lacombe's. Oh, well, next time.
My last day in Lyon was beautiful and sunny, so took a walk to the Musee des Tissus & Musee Decoratif, both beautiful mansions worth seeing. Had a very good salad lunch at Brasserie d'Espace on Place Bellecour. Then took a taxi to Gare Part Dieu for my afternoon train to CDG, arriving at the Marriott Courtyard around 6:30. This is a terrific CDG hotel, was my 3rd stay there. However, you have to search for bargain prices, which do come up.
All in all, the trip was great, and I was glad I stayed long enough in Alsace to have a little relaxation. Also, 3 nights in Lyon was just about right to see most things. On the whole, I enjoyed the food more in Alsace, which surprised me. This was my 4th solo trip to France (besides other trips to Paris) where I rented car to drive around,and it has been wonderful each time. The French people are extremely helpful, in fact most go out of their way. Any of you women out there trying to get up the courage to do it alone, I say, go for it! I've taken tours, gone with other person, family, etc. - but this is my favorite way. Where everything is MY way! Can't wait to go back to France in May.
