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Lyon, Beaune and Dijon Trip Report May 2004

Lyon, Beaune and Dijon Trip Report May 2004

Old May 11th, 2004, 06:37 PM
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Lyon, Beaune and Dijon Trip Report May 2004

General Info:

As suggested from another thread I thought I'd frame my report with a little personal info.

I'm in my early 40's and male. I travel budget for accommodations so I can splurge more for food though I rarely dine at the level of a Michelin starred restaurant. I'm from the US Midwest. This was my 13th trip to Europe, my 5th to France. This was my 3rd solo trip to Europe.

I spent 3 nights in Lyon, 2 in Beaune and 4 in Dijon with day trips to Dôle and Besançon.

Especially by myself I prefer rail travel. When I plan my trip I'm careful to keep the rail connections short and convenient. I don't want a 6 hour train ride. I don't want 2 or 3 connections. I don't want a 6:00am train departure. After all it is a vacation.

Traveling alone trains are much more cost effective than renting a car. I don't have to buy gas, pay tolls, or find and pay for parking. I don't have to drive and navigate. I can drink wine with my meals and never worry about driving. My rail cost for CDG to Lyon, to Beaune, to Dijon, back to CDG and day trips to Dôle and Besançon was 164 euros.


Weather:

The weather was spring-like varying from cold and damp to warm and sunny.

The Saturday May 1st holiday was spectacular. It hit the mid 70's by the afternoon and was sunny.

Most of the rest of the time it was 50's early morning to around 70 by mid-afternoon. A couple of evenings it sprinkled.

Saturday May 8th, another holiday was miserable. Strong winds blowing a steady rain all day. The temperature was in the low 50's.


Cost Trivia:

All prices through out this report are given in euros.

Most expensive
Kir 4.00 seated indoors restaurant Beaune
Beer 3.00 seated outdoors café Lyon
Vodka 7.00 seated at nightclub bar Lyon
Café 2.40 seated indoors café Dijon
Wine 5.80 seated indoors wine bar Beaune

Least expensive
Kir 2.10 seated indoors café Dijon
Beer 2.00 seated indoors restaurant Beaune
Vodka 2.50 seated indoors café Dijon
Café 1.30 standing indoors café Lyon
Wine 1.30 standing café Lyon


Getting to France:

I had a direct flight from Cincinnati to CDG outside Paris. It departed and arrived on time at 4:30pm Thursday and 6:30am Friday in the rain.

There was quite a back up at terminal 2E passport control. It took about 20 minutes to wait my way to the front of the line. As I only had carry-on I whipped through customs and headed out of the secure zone. I walked past all the signs for the TGV station that are pointing outside to the shuttle bus. It's much faster to walk from 2E to the TGV station.

The line was long at the TGV ticket counter. I made it just in time to buy a 7:32 ticket to Lyon. Boarded the train. Not bad at 1 hour to get from plane seat to train seat. The luggage sections at the ends of cars are still blocked off. I put my suitcase on the floor between two back-to-back seats. People don't seem to think to use that area.

Though raining the countryside was beautiful as it raced by. The rapeseed fields were in full bloom putting huge patches of yellow on a green, verdant countryside.

I arrived at Lyon Part-Dieu train station. Looking about for a navette (shuttle train) to Perrache train station I didn't see one. I bought a carnet for the Lyon metro. As it was still sprinkling I took the subway rather than the tram to Perrache so I could stay inside more. At Perrache I walked out the north end and across the street to my hotel.


Lyon Friday April 30th:

I'd stayed at the Hotel Dubost last year with my Dad. We had a very quiet room on the interior courtyard. I wanted to know what the street noise was like so I requested a room with a view onto Place Carnot. Too early for my room to be ready so I left my suitcase.

Later in the afternoon I checked in. Two trash cans! The bathroom was a fair size and had a small shower with a curtain. The room had a double bed, open closet, and a desk and chair. It was fine. Nothing stellar, but then I only sleep in hotel rooms. At night I didn't hear any trains. Perrache is more of a regional train station now. Maybe it doesn't get the freight traffic anymore. I did hear more car and truck noise. It didn't bother me because I sleep soundly.

After leaving my suitcase I headed to the post office. I bought a few postcard stamps celebrating Bertholdi and picturing the statue of liberty at .90 euro apiece. I continued to walk up pedestrian r. Victor Hugo pricing post cards along the way. I finally found some at .40euro and filled them out.

Lunch was at Restaurant Marronnier on r. Marronnier. I'd enjoyed it last year and did so again this trip. I even had the same waiter. A wonderful salade Lyonnaise, pike quennelle, tarte poire and a 25cl pot du vin for 18.80euro.

After lunch the sun came out and it was very pretty.

I decided to find Les Halles in the Part-Dieu area. I wish I hadn't bothered. The whole area is a monument to 70's concrete architecture. If you love La Defense in Paris, Part-Dieu is the area of Lyon for you.

I'd read that Lyon's Les Halles are reminiscent of the Eiffel designed one in Paris before the ugly glass mall was built. I didn't see the connection. After walking by a parking garage that looked like a half ear of corn stood on end, I entered Les Halles to find more of a mall food court than a farmer's market.

Many of the vendors had counter space and stools for eating right there rather than shopping. The structure was a low-ceilinged modern building that looked nothing like an old shopping market. I like Les Halles in La Rochelle, Cognac, Dijon, Chaumont, Dôle or just about anywhere else better. I did like one cheese vendor. He had pictures of the animal from which the cheese came on a stick in each type of cheese. That was interesting to see.

I took the tram back to Perrache so I could see some of the city. At Perrache train station I was walking by the weird 70's light/art fixture when this young lady came running at me talking, chanting and yelling while doing twists, turns and ballet movements. I stopped in my tracks I'm sure looking stunned. About then I noticed three other young people doing similar things. I skirted off to the left to get out of the way of the freak show when I noticed a large professional video camera recording the events.

People were coming out of shops wondering what was going on. Since I'd just come out of the "set" they were all asking me what was happening. Luckily I can say "I don't know" in French. I figure the next time I'm watching a small budget art film from a Lyon university I'll see myself looking quite disconcerted on the big screen.

I discovered the street just east of r. Victor Hugo on the Presqu'Ile. It was lined for several blocks with antique stores from Perrache to Place Bellecour. I ended up in Place Terreaux watching the people go by.

As I sat sipping a Leffe a group of 20 or so women assembled on the steps of the Hôtel de Ville. Their sign in French read (my translation)

"Shalom Paix Salom"
"Evacuate the Occupied Territories"
"Women in Black ? Lyon"
"Know the Force of Peace"

Yes the "Women in Black" were all dressed in black. Be careful with those all black outfits. The next time you might get swept into a political rally.


Lyon Saturday May 1st

I knew a lot would be closed in Lyon for the holiday but I didn't know that ALL public transportation would be closed! I expected a very reduced holiday or night bus schedule, but there was nothing! That really put a hiccup in my day. I wanted to see the Roman ruins on Fourvière hill. Well I hoofed it to the top. It took me awhile, but I made it. I knew the museum was closed, but I was able to explore the ruins. I was there early enough it was only me and the security guard.

Walked by the basilica and saw the views off the bluff. This year there was no snow on the Alps like the same time last year. I walked down the bluff below the basilica. I walked by the Florentine 4*L and Cour des Loges hotels. Both looked beautiful.

Due to jet lag I was able to get all this done by 9:00am. The muguet de bois (lilly of the valley) sellers were out in force now. I don't know where they all come from but they end up everywhere. The easiest tactic seems to be to buy a cheap bunch and drag the wilted thing around all day. These are amateur panhandlers so it's not a problem, but after you're asked the 50th time it gets ludicrous.

I had a hot chocolate in a café in Vieux Lyon and got a kick out of watching a street cleaner on break struggle with the restroom's light switch. It's nice to know that I'm not the only one who does that. It turned out to be an automatic one. You had to get far enough into the room to get it to work. By the way, the bus, tram and metro drivers had the day off but the "green team" street cleaners were out working? What's up with that?

The weather was gorgeous: high 70's, sunny and the people of Lyon had nothing to do on this fine holiday but parade up and down the main street of the Presqu'Ile. I had nothing better to do then sit in cafés and watch them.

Just after lunch I parked myself on a bench in Place Carnot and started watching the floor show. I picked my location carefully. I was at the ramp in the middle of the park that funnels people into the train station. To my left seemed to be the people without children, the winos and the napping people. To my right were the families with young children and old people.

I think I saw everything that afternoon except public urination.

- The classic dog with muzzle worn as a necklace.

- Young couples necking.

- A couple of men passed out on the lawn.

- A homeless-looking wino who showed up in his underwear. His mates kept yelling "Vêtements! Jean! Vêtements!" at him until he finally dressed.

- Two young men going into one of those coin operated toilet/closets together. I've been in one of those before. I don't think there's really room for two.

- An old man carrying a leather clutch. OK, when my Mom in the 60's wore a "little black dress" she called a small, strapless purse a clutch, so that's what I'm calling his "purse."

- A 35 year old man took off his nice blue jean jacket, spread it on the ground and proceeded to fall asleep.

- A police van with 4 officers pulled up. They were telling people with alcohol to cover it up. Young people were rolling their eyes when the cops weren't looking. One lady cop yelled at the "vêtements!" men to cover their booze. They claimed they didn't have any. She addressed one by name and said, "ma poupée derrière!" which I'll translate as "my sweet a**" "Cover it up."

Wow! It was quite the show.

I eventually walked up r. Victor Hugo towards Place Terreaux. As always I was amazed and impressed at how many people were outside. Not really doing anything, just outside, not watching television.

At Place Bellecour was a brass band busking. At Place Terreaux the labor parties were forming to start their parade. After they cleared out there was more room for the Terreaux floor show.

- A family of five went by each upon their unicycle.

- A limping boxer crapped right in front of me. His owner just unleashed him as she walked away. That way the dog could catch up and she could pretend nothing had happened.

- Within minutes a French person was chatting away with a friend, felt the squish, heard the crowd say, "ewwww," and exclaimed, "Merde!" How clever, an expletive and identifier all in one.

- The main event involved two sub-shows meeting. The bachelorette party with bride-to-be in mock wedding regalia ran into the man in lederhosen doing yodeling karaoke. They danced together for one number. The crowd cheered.

I had dinner at Bistrot Lyon a Jean-Paul Lacombe restaurant. It was excellent. My kir was served with cracklin's, not pork rinds, but honest to goodness cracklin's. The foie gras de canard was exquisite as was the steak in butter sauce. The cheese plate for dessert was excellent too. For a digestif a cointreau with ice and a 25cl pichet of red wine rounded it all out. My most expensive meal of the trip at 53euros.

It was an unbelievably wonderful day in France.
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Old May 11th, 2004, 07:03 PM
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I'm enjoying your report, Indy!

I love your descriptions of the people-watching.....

Can't wait for more!

BTW, did you see the Air France Fare Sale?
It's never too early to start planning the next trip!
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Old May 11th, 2004, 07:53 PM
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Am really enjoying your trip report. Good eye for details! High marks for entertainment value!

As another solo traveler (most of the time) I, too, appreciate the freedom to choose (mode of transportation, restaurants, direction up or down a street, etc.) that you do.

Back home where, between family and office, there's so much we HAVE to do, isn't it exhilerating to do exactly as you please on vacation?
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Old May 11th, 2004, 08:22 PM
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Your report is so detailed-very good!
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Old May 11th, 2004, 08:42 PM
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Indy, darling, wonderful, descriptive report. But no Pastis? Seriously welcome home. The reason for so many vendors for the lilies-of-the-V that it is the only day, May 1st, that one doesn't need the vendors licence.
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Old May 12th, 2004, 04:49 AM
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Just for the record, there is some controversy about lily of the V street-vendors: May 1st is the only day when it is allowed to sell flowers on the street in France without paying any taxes, so it seems that some established florists take advantage of that by sending out so-called independent vendors, who are actually a real florist in disguise, selling tax-free!
 
Old May 12th, 2004, 06:16 AM
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I am planning this ititinary next March!! I did get in that Air France sale!
Cannot wait for more report! PJ
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Old May 12th, 2004, 08:32 AM
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Very funny! Your report made me remember those wonderful quennelles and pork rinds of Lyon.

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Old May 12th, 2004, 06:08 PM
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Lyon Sunday May 2nd

I walked out my hotel door right into the Sunday market on Place Carnot. The first area I walked through was the puppy & kitten market. There were twice as many vendors this year as last at least 25.

As I walked into the food area of the market I noticed the chicken roasting people had added whole pork loins to their offerings. It smelled wonderful. Too bad there wasn't much I could do with a whole chicken or pork loin.

I worked my way towards the art museum on Place Terreaux. I stumbled into first Sunday of the month free day. Luckily it wasn't as crowded as it could have been since I arrived at 10:30. Lots of Rodins and Delacroix, a few Monets, a Tintereto, Rubens and a Rembrandt. Well worth visiting.

I took the metro over to St Jean so I could take the funicular to St Just. It was closed last year and I wanted to see if it had a view. Sadly it doesn't. Just like the other funicular to the Basilica you're in a tunnel most of the way.

I walked over the the Gallo-Roman museum since it was open. Again it was free day. The crowds were pretty thick, but it's a well layed out museum. It's fairly new and the main aisle spirals down several levels helping to keep the crowds moving and spread out. I really liked the models showing what the coliseums would look like whole right next to windows looking over the remains. It was a very nice touch.

I walked over to climb the Fourvière Basilica. The view was spectacular. You looked down at the bronze of St. George slaying his ever-present dragon and across at the gilt statue of Mary.

I used the metro and my feet to work my way over to the Croix Rousse area. I thought the climb in the Metro up the hill was a little steep. When I got out I looked down at the tracks and realized it was a cog subway. I don't think I've ever seen a regular subway line with several stops that's cog based.

Crois Rousse was a typical looking suburb on the edge of a big city. I didn't have much time to explore it as it started raining. I settled into a café for a bit then headed back to r. Marrionners for dinner.

I ate at "Aux Trois Cochons." It's another Chabert & Fils restaurant. My gosh the food was huge! People think the US has portion problems. I barely ate half of what was brought me. My appetizer was a chicken liver paté. It came in a loaf pan and I could cut off as much as I wanted. I tried to cut as thin a sliver as I could, but it's tough with a loose paté and a dull butter knife.

I ordered the rabbit in mustard sauce with macaroni and cheese. The rabbit was 1/2 of a small rabbit, but still huge. It even had the sweetbreads with it. The mustard sauce was excellent, a little spicy and a lot of creamy. The mac & cheese was to die for. Heavy cream sauce with Swiss cheese, sprinkled with bread crumbs then baked and broiled to perfection. I ordered a 25cl pot of wine. I'm sure what showed up was a 50cl.

Frommage blanc for dessert because I asked for something small. It's weird. Like an extra firm, unsweetened yogurt. I had a café then the waiter started plying me with their own digestif. It was very strong with a spicy, herb flavor. I was stunned that all of this came for 32 euro.


Beaune Monday May 3rd

I stayed at a Logis de France property Hotel de France right across the street from the train station. While I heard no train noise in Lyon, it was almost constant here. The freight trains and TGV's came through all night long at 50 to 60mph. In fact when the lady with the sexy French voice makes a recorded announcement at the station, make sure you're on the correct side of the yellow line. You don't want to get sucked into a freight train blasting by.

The first night I slept with the window open as it was warm enough. The noise didn't bother me. When I sleep, I sleep. The second night was cooler so I closed the double-paned window. Though it cut a lot of the noise I could still hear it. There was a metal shutter I could have lowered for more noise reduction but I didn't try it as I didn't need it. Oddly enough this little two-star, though without elevator, had individual climate control with A/C in each room.

Beaune is one of those towns with really twisting roads that's difficult to get a sense of direction in. It took me almost a half hour to find the tourist office the first time from the hotel. Later it took less than 15 minutes. On the road from the train station to the town was a bicycle rental shop.

I went to the museum of Burgundy life. It had lots of wine making photos, exhibits, etc. I liked it. A picture of naked people working their way into the grape vats for crushing. It made me realize that I want to stick with newer vintages of wine. After lunch I wandered around.

I had a Fodor's moment and decided to have an afternoon drink at the Hotel Grillon. It's been mentioned here several times so I thought I'd walk out and see. I left the plaza outside the Hôtel Dieu and walked at a regular pace. Though I'm not a snail pace walker I'm not a power-walker either. It took me exactly 15 minutes.

On the way there were street lights and sidewalks the whole way, though inside the city walls the side walk was a bit narrow in spots. It seems odd to have curb cuts on a sidewalk so narrow you couldn't get a wheelchair or stroller down it. I also passed a full-sized Casino store that I used later for some grocery purchases.

The hotel is back from the road and has a beautiful setting. The chestnut trees and lilac were blooming along with a gorgeous blood red peony by the outdoor pool. The gentleman at the desk was pleasant as I asked about English. He went to get his (I believe) wife as he said she was better at it. I explained that I wanted to see the hotel. She was very warm and helpful.

She had a single room unoccupied I could look at. It was bigger than most double rooms in 2 stars where I stay. It was decorated in warm ochre colors. The bathroom was huge with a full-sized tub but no shower curtain. She said each room was decorated individually with color schemes and furnishings. Each has its own climate control.

On the grounds with an entrance on the street is Le Verger restaurant. I glanced at the menu. High end with foie gras starter at 18euro, main courses in the 12 to 22 euro range, it's in an unusual round building. The building looks a bit like a chef's hat.

I wanted to have dinner at Ma Cuisine but it was closed until My 10th. At the door I translated a sign for an American couple who wanted to eat there too. Wandering around I saw a menue that had "Pavé du Boeuf" translated as "Cobblestone of Beef." That got me laughing out loud.

I eventually settled for Le Gourmandin for dinner. As I was alone without a reservation I was seated near the entrance to the kitchen. I liked it. It was fun to turn around and see what was going on. I was surprised at how quiet the kitchen really was. I had snails in a parsley & garlic sauce, an incredible beef bourguignon, epoisses cheese from the region, 2 scoops of cassis sorbet and a plate of meringues with candied lemon peel. This was 32euro. The problem was the wine. Since I was in a place where wine is paramount they didn't have wines by the pichet. I ended up getting an excellent half bottle of wine, but it added 20euro to the cost of the meal. Almost makes me want to give up drinking during a meal, well maybe not.


Beaune Tuesday May 4

I wandered aimlessly in the morning enjoying the views from the ramparts. I visited the Hôtel Dieu around 11. That glazed tile roof is gorgeous. Weyden's "Last Judgement" is fascinating. Literally people popping up out of their graves to be judged on a scale and sent to heaven or hell.

I enjoyed visiting the small fine arts museum, even smaller Marey museum dedicated to the forefather of cinema. A combination ticket for these 2, the Burgundian Life museum plus the Hôtel Dieu cost 9.50euro.

Across a short block from the Hôtel de Ville was a very nice bar "La Note Bleue." It was done in navy blue and white with a tiled floor. There was a pool table in the back so the noisier people were drawn back there leaving the front a little quieter. I also liked the drink price. 3.80euro for a vodka on ice. I paid 6.10 for the same thing across from the Hôtel Dieu.

No memorable meals on this day, and evening turned into laundry time.

A tip, visit the Hôtel Dieu between 10am and 1pm. I saw it late morning after the sun was up over the high eastern roof. It shone gloriously upon the geometric tiles. I wouldn't want to see the roof shaded in early morning or late afternoon.

There aren't many tiled Burgundian roofs in Beaune. Another delightful example is walking from the train station into Beaune. As you come upon the rampart there is a beautiful roof to the left of yellow, green and deep blue almost black tiles. It may be part of the Bouchard complex which is to the right. Again this roof is best seen late morning with the sun striking it.

Don't get me wrong. I thoroughly enjoyed my day two days and nights in Beaune. It's a beautiful little town. It's compact and pleasant to walk. Yet Beaune is probably the only place in France I would avoid returning to so far. Other places weren't thrilling like Montluçon or Alés. I'd still spend the night in either if it were convenient for an itinerary.

Beaune was so filled with tourists it never caught my fancy. There were a few times I was walking down a busy street listening to more English and German than French. This was on a Monday and Tuesday the first week of May. I can't imagine what it's like in summer or worse the fall wine season.

When a town is so filled with tourists it becomes harder for me to practice French. Waiters and waitresses would use English with me. Hotel and museum clerks would switch to English. I ran into the same couple from Denver 3 times in 2 days.

Most of Beaune's charm for me was in the evenings after the daytrippers left.
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Old May 13th, 2004, 05:40 AM
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Excellent report, Indy! I really like all those mouth-watering descriptions of your meals. Makes me look forward to dining in France when we go (how will I hold on 'til fall?).

We had the same feeling in Sorrento as you did in Beaune. Beautiful town but so full of tourists when we were there that it wrecked any ambiance Sorrento might have had. I've been told to give the town another chance in the off-season, but I'm not in any rush!
 
Old May 13th, 2004, 07:43 AM
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Interesting and accurate description of Beaune. I too have found it overrun with tourists and difficult to enjoy. We have always spent more time in the countryside, visiting the various wineries than in Beaune. This trip we are staying in Beaune, so I will get to enjoy it at night when the daytrippers are gone, and spend my days visiting wineries outside of Beaune. Ah, the best of both worlds. Curious to hear about dijon, keep the report coming.
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Old May 13th, 2004, 07:56 AM
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WONDERFUL report

And welcome home
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Old May 14th, 2004, 07:05 PM
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Dijon:

Dijon Wednesday May 5th:

I arrived at the Dijon train station at 10am. I walked north up the slight hill a couple of hundred yards to the Hotel Thurot. As expected my room wasn't ready so I dropped my bag and headed out.

Later that afternoon when I checked in I found a very pleasant room. Done in pastel shades of yellow, blue and green it had twin bedding, two trash cans!, and a pretty big bathroom. The full sized tub was in a slot in the wall so I actually had 3 sides around me enclosed as I showered. A 2 star without an elevator I had to climb up a flight and a half of stairs which wasn't a problem for me.

I went directly to Place Darcy to check out the tourist office. Much to my chagrin, I discovered that no museums would be open on Saturday May 8th, the holiday. Oh well plan B would go into effect. A half-day trip to see the spring at Tonnerre would happen with people watching in Dijon the rest of the afternoon.

I got my bearings and headed over to the Archeology museum. I thought it was really cool. Lots of tombstones in the gravel basement of an old abbey that's attached to the cathedral. It was fun and spooky at the same time. There were ancient wooden statues in a climate controlled area.

Next I went into the cathedral right there. It has a very nice tiled roof and a crypt underneath. The crypt was pretty much empty, but I liked the posters in French in the lobby explaining the history of the crypt and church. Coming out of the cathedral I helped an older lady figure out the exit. There wasn't a handle, you just had to push the leather padded door.

She asked me in French about the location of some Plaza. I told her in French I was a tourist and didn't know my way around. Asking where I was from I replied "les Etats-Unis" at which point she snapped into excellent English. She was German and had studied in Dijon 60 years before. This was her first trip back to Dijon and she was trying to find familiar things. I wished her luck and she headed off.

I went to the Place Emile Zola to look around a bit. It's an OK little plaza with restaurants, cafés and bars with a lot of parking. I don't really recall a fountain or any other feature. I went north from there along a main street enjoying how the sidewalk had been made to represent a multi-color & patterned tile roof. Past "Our Lady" church will all its false gargoyles I ended up in Les Halles. Though not a market day a few of the vendors were still open. It had the high ceiling metal work and glass belle époque feel to it.

I had lunch next door at the Maistre Kanter a French brasserie chain. I think they have a consistently good foie gras which I had with a flammenkucher which I like too. I was surprised to see on the menu several items marked as being a dish for only one person. I've always thought their food to be way too big and enjoyed sharing a main course there with my Dad a couple of times last year. I guess they don't like meal sharing much any more.

I went south again to go to the museum of sacred objects and another life in Burgundy museum. Unfortunately the sacred objects museum was closed until June 2005 for renovations, but the Burgundy museum was open. It has a mix of a few works of art, painting and such, with ceramics and displays of normal life. There were several cases of events with everything from a wedding to christening set up for the late 1800's. The second floor had a "street" with shops from early 1900's: a furrier, milliner, druggist, general store, etc.

I liked the furrier because it had a video loop running of a lady that ran a fur shop in Lyon through most of the 1900's. It was interesting to try to figure out what she was saying. Of course some of the words were very specific for the fur trade so I had no idea what they translated to.

I hit another church and wandered around some. Finally around 7:00pm I had a Dame Blanche (chocolate sundae) for dinner. Not the most nutritionally balanced dinner but I wasn't very hungry, ice cream sounded good and it was vacation time. I went back to the hotel for an early night.

Dijon Thursday, May 6th

I didn't scramble out of bed extra early so by the time I made it to the Tour Phillippe it was 9:30. I was the only one on that "tour." I was escorted to the top by a young university student. Inside the base of the tower I went over to a door and asked if that was were the elevator was located. She laughed. She let me go first up the stairs so I could set the pace. After climbing the 10 stories or so I was huffing away and had long ago broken a heavy sweat. I turned around to look at my young, thin guide who looked like she hadn't moved. I asked and she said she climbed the tower 11 times every day.

The view was well worth the effort. The cathedral, the rapeseed fields in bloom in the distance, the tiled roofs were all splendid.

Knowing that the art museum had sections closed at lunch I toured through St Michel church and had a leisurely lunch. It was a nice plat du jour at a café near St Michel. I had sautéed veal in a tomato-based sauce with a huge portion of fries. I couldn't eat half of them. "Feelings" in French was playing on the Musak.

Visited the Musee Magnin. Lots of paintings, a Tiepolo, a couple of Géricault's and a few by Jeanne Magnin herself and some Ziem's. I liked the collection a lot. Furnishings, paintings, clocks and chairs, quite the mix.

I went to the art museum. It is an excellent museum. The tomb of the Dukes of Burgundy carved by Sluter is exquisite. His technique of deeply carving the stone is incredible. Lots of other nice stuff too: a Monet, a Gaughin, some Picasson and Matisse. I was fascinated by a small study in oil by Géricault of his "Raft of Medusa."

I went through the modern art section on the top floor. I liked the disclaimer plaque in English that said that the art was a bequest that reflected the tastes of the donors. Almost as if they were embarrassed by some of it.

I found the "chouette," the owl that is carved on the side of Our Lady church. You're supposed to touch it with your left hand to bring good look. It looked a little greasy with the way it had been rubbed so much. I couldn't bring myself to touch it. I decided I was lucky enough to be in France and didn't need any more "bonne chance."

I walked north past the Plaza Republique to the Clemenceau area that's a bit modern and has a Casino. In Lyon I'd seen a "wine cooler" version of a Ricard pastis drink that I wanted to buy for a friend. I'd checked a few bigger stores along the way and couldn't find it. It wasn't in Dijon either thought I checked the Casino, Galleries Lafayette and Monoprix.

I did finally find a bottle of Extreme Absinthe with thujone that came with an eye dropper. I liked the warning label on it. The first universal picture showed using the eyedropper to put a bit in a drink. The second one had a circle with a red slash and showed pouring the bottle over ice. The third picture was another circle with a red slash showing a person dumping the contents of the bottle down his throat. As I don't care for pastis, absinthe whatever, I've not tried it.

I wandered from there back to the hotel stopping occasionally along the way.

Dijon did not sing to me. I decided to figure out why. It has a lot going for it. I like their art museum better than Lyon's. The other museums were very nice too. The bar nightlife with live music was very fun. I loved climbing the Tour Phillipe for the view. So what went wrong? I think it's 3 things.

1. No water. There's a river there somewhere, but it's on the other side of the rail tracks. It's not an integral part of the city. There are no walks along the water, no cafés.

2. No open spaces. There are very few plazas and they're very tiny. Place Emile Zola has dining, but it's still so small there's not a taxi stand there. The plaza in front of the art museum is a big parking lot.

3. The roads are too medieval. They're so small and winding. There are really no big thoroughfares that attract scads of people. People are divided among the many small streets. I didn't find anyplace with thick throngs of people going by to watch. The streets are so narrow there are fewer places with outdoor seating in a café.

Though unlike Beaune I would return to Dijon if it were convenient for an itinerary.
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Old May 14th, 2004, 08:31 PM
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indytravel, The chouette in Dijon isn't greasy. They varnished it because it was being rubbed out of existance. The object, I think, is to save it for future generations. I swear it is smaller now than the first time I saw it so perhaps they are right.

Glad you had a favorable opinion of the Hotel Grillon in Beaune. We stay there when we're in Beaune and I've recommended it several times. It always makes me a bit nervous to recommend hotels since we all have such different tastes.

Loved your report. Thanks so much.
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Old May 15th, 2004, 03:36 AM
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Thanks for the info on the chouette SalB. Varnish would explain the way it looked. Another thought I had like you was how worn it appeared. That if everybody kept rubbing it, it wouldn't be there forever. That's a good example of why museums tell people over and over "don't touch the art."

Vincent that's interesting about the professional florists selling tax-free. I thought some of the bouquets were a bit too "arranged" compared to some of the people who had nothing more than a few sprigs held together with rubber bands in an old plastic pail of water.
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Old May 15th, 2004, 04:43 AM
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Dôle Friday May 7th:

I really, really like Dôle. About 35 minutes away with frequent service on the Dijon-Besançon line, it was a perfect rail day trip from Dijon.

I arrived around 11:00pm having forgotten my map of Dôle at the hotel. I didn't see any signs for the tourist bureau so I started working my way down towards the river. How hard can it be to find a tourist bureau in a small town that meanders along a bluff overlooking the river Doubs?

Yeah right! I saw lots of flags for the E-U celebration and ended up at the Hôtel de Ville. The lady gave me directions to the tourist bureau. As they were in French I was only able to translate and remember the first 3 or so directions.

I made a wrong turn, went past the cathedral which has an interesting dripping fountain on its side and noticed signs to the Musée Louis Pasteur. I showed up on their doorstep at 11:50. The lady asked if I want to see the museum. I said yes but after lunch. She was relieved as she was on the way out the door for her lunch. I asked if she had a city map. She happily obliged and I said I'd return.

Map in hand I was now the master of Dôle. I went through an arch onto a canal, espied a café and ducked in, literally. The door was only 5 feet high. I had a beer and examined the map to plot my afternoon. Being lunch I went back up to the main business street and stopped at the Bistro Parisien.

I had an excellent lunch of sliced chicken in a wild mushroom cream sauce and frites. I opted for local cheeses for dessert. Comté was similar to a hard parmesan and very good as was Morbier a blue cheese. The Cancoillotte was not to my liking. It was in a bowl with a small spoon and had the weirdest texture. As I'd lift a spoonful up the cheese would string then almost snap like silly putty. Between the texture and slightly soured taste, it was not the cheese for me. After this and not caring for Cervelle de Canut in Lyon , I'm now leery of any cheese served with a spoon.

I looked for Rue de la Bière as I wanted my picture with the classic square, blue French street sign. It must be a popular sign with the locals too as I couldn't find one. They'd all been taken. I visited the basilica. I paid close attention to their organ as it's used for a lot of classical organ recitals during the summer tourist months. Next to the Basilica are Les Halles. The market was not running that day.

I was working my way to the tourist office when I saw Frenchman arguing with someone on the street. His speech was too slurred for me to catch what he was saying. He proceeded to mount his bicycle and peddle away. As he was a bit heavy and his pants a bit tight he revealed one of the finest examples of plumber's butt I've seen in a long while. I wondered about drunk driving on a bicycle, something I'm not sure of in the US as far as legality is concerned.

I stopped for a café by the tourist office around 2:30. A French speaking man was there in his blue jeans, tennis shoes and Tasmanian devil T-shirt. Another Frenchman came in and tried to order a beer. His speech was so slurred he was denied service. This was two people post-lunch on a Friday at 2:00 in the afternoon that were 2 to 3 sheets to the wind. My, my, my where was the party and how did I miss it?

At the tourist office I asked about the church tower. They said it was closed for security reasons. Dang, I'm sure the view from there would be spectacular.

I walked through a park near the tourist office enjoying the view of the river from the bluff. Next I visited the Louis Pasteur birthplace and museum. It's a nice, little museum explaining his life and work. There were documents of his, books, his baptismal gown and other odds & ends.

I walked along the canal at the foot of the Louis Pasteur museum. At the west end I found a little passage Fontaine des Lepreux that went along a pool of spring fed water with a grotto backdrop. The way the pool was laid out I wonder if it used to be for washing laundry. It was so damp there were mini stalagmites on the sidewalk in a few places.

I walked along the main canal/river that flows past. I watched a cabin cruiser process through a canal lock as I walked up the hill towards the art museum.

I ducked into a bar for a pre-art museum beer and stepped into the world of Johnny Hallyday. His posters were on the wall, his music was blaring from a CD player and the bartender was singing along. As it was a slow time we conversed quite a bit, well as much as I could in French. He asked if I knew of Johnny and actually I did. He called him the "French Elvis" and I mentioned one difference is Johnny is still alive and thin. He laughed. When he asked I told him I was from the States. He said he loved America and had me look up to a big American flag he had mounted on the wall. (Later on I discovered that Johnny's daughter-in-law is the supermodel Estelle Hallyday. She's the one that wore the Harley Davidson outfit complete with handlebars and side mirror in a George Michael video.)

The art museum was a delightful surprise. It is 4 floors of archeology and art ranging from the 1600's to modern. Surprisingly it was free too. Nothing super famous but well worth a look. There was one very interesting painting that was oil paint on marble. You don't see that everyday.

I then worked my way back to the train station to return to Dijon. In a future trip I could easily spend a night in Dôle and do a little more poking around. Built on a bluff it has those interesting little streets that wind up and down.

Back in Dijon I went to the Bar de l'Univers to see a band. I wondered about the sign in the men's room "please use proper toilets." Hmmmm, what wouldn't be a proper toilet? Sink? Floor? Anything more creative? I'm glad I didn't find out.

The band was a young lady singing, two men with guitars, another man who played guitar and sang, and a 20 year old young man playing the accordion. I was surprised to see someone so young playing an accordion. Let's face it the instrument doesn't exactly get a lot of popular press.


Besançon Saturday May 8th:

I awoke Saturday morning to a steady rain and blowing wind. Ugh. I flipped on the TV and didn't need any French at all to understand the big green blob on the weather map with the epicenter right over my head in Dijon.

Plan B was to visit the fountain at Tonnerre. Well, the fountain is outdoors. It's a holiday when many things will be closed. Tonnerre is a very small town of six thousand. So hiking around the countryside of Tonnerre was out too. OK, Plan C.

Wait a minute, there was no Plan C! I decided to go to Besançon since it had convenient rail connections and was a fair sized city of 125,000 souls.

At the rail station I booked round trip for Besançon then proceeded to buy my TGV ticket to CDG the next day. It printed out as a single ticket to Besançon then the second ticket had a trip from Besançon to Dijon that night, then Dijon to CDG the next day. The ticket agent told me I needed to double compost that ticket. I thought this would be a disaster to myself, but the double composting worked just fine.

I got off at the train station and worked my way down the hill in the driving rain. I walked through the old town and (other than the rain) found it very pleasant. Ended up eating at the Café Bersot. The menu of veal in a sauce with spaghetti, a desert like boston cream pie and a coffee was 9 euros and very good.

Of all things the Museum of Time was open and free. I found it fascinating. Everything from old town hall clock mechanisms to an HP cesium clock with everything in between.

On this cold, dreary day I stopped for another warm drink, this time a hot chocolate, when I saw a 70+ year old lady sitting in the Rosablanca which was very busy. She had on a beautiful white dress, an elegant matching hat, little strappy gold sandals with a two-inch heel and a red, white & blue ribbon pinned to her chest. She and the young waiters were shamelessly flirting. It was nice to witness this pleasant interaction. It was too bad the weather had ruined the holiday for her, but she was making do admirably.

I wondered the downtown more ducking in and out of cafés as the wind gusted harder. I'd noticed a taxi stand earlier. I broke down and used a taxi for the first time to get back up the hill to the train station. It was well worth the 6 euro.

Besançon is definitely on my return-to list. I didn't see a couple of other museums that were closed due to the holiday. I didn't make the climb to the citadel either due to the weather. I'm sure the views from up there are worth the effort.


Departure:

I got up early on Sunday morning to catch the 7:45 TGV to CDG. It was 10 minutes late as I stood on a cold, windy train platform. I decided to stand in front of a vending machine to help block the breeze. An older lady was hugging her coat to herself and I motioned to her to join me in front of the vending machine. She thanked me and small talked about the weather and late train. She was very nice and didn't comment on my lousy French.

The train arrived at CDG on time at 9:35. I walked to 2E and started the process of departing. There was virtually no line at the ticket counter, none at passport control and only a couple of people ahead of me at the x-ray machines. When I stepped away from the x-ray machine I looked at my watch and it was 10:05, exactly 30 minutes. Why doesn't it go that quickly when I'm late?

My direct flight departed at 11:35am and I arrived in Cincinnati on-time at 2:35pm.

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Old May 17th, 2004, 03:55 PM
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You're my kind of traveler. I really enjoyed your report. I'm looking forward to your next trip . . . Hope you are too!

If you live in Cincy, why are you Indy?

Just curious.
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Old May 17th, 2004, 04:37 PM
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Ah, many fond memories returned with your trip reports as an ex student at the Universite de Dijon (just a summer course, alas). I remember rubbing the chouette and sent my daughter to rub it during her junior year abroad. I guess it is now a family tradition.

If you return to the area again, I recommend renting a car to get out to the vineyards and visit the ruins of the Abbaye de Cluny and the Basilica in Vezelay.

Wonderful trip report! You made me hunger for some beef burgundy. Where is that recipe?
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Old May 17th, 2004, 05:39 PM
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Good going, Indy! I liked reading your report. But did I skip a line or two? I thought I had the train situation down pat, but you have me flummoxed at double composting your ticket! You're not talking about what I do with my potato peelings, I know. What is that term?
 
Old May 17th, 2004, 06:26 PM
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Wonderful stuff, Indy! This is the part of France that I have always raced through and not had time to stop in. I MUST make time for it in the future.
Your meal descriptions have me salivating, and your synopses of scenes and people viewed bring back so many pleasant memories of France in general. Thank you!
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