Trip Report - 10 "Western Icelanders" Discover Their Roots (Long)
Jun 19th, 2003, 05:01 PM
#22
Original Poster
Day 10: Up and out early for the drive to Flokalundar and the ferry to Stykkisholmur. We were on the road at 7am and for the first hour or so made miles on paved road!!
(by this point we were experts on road bed surfaces ? going so far as to having a 5 point rating system for them!)
One of the first events was the tunnel outside of Isafjordur ? I had read about the fact there was a tunnel through the mountains, but it didn?t seem to be a big deal. So when we came to it?I assumed it was a kilometer or so. Wrong. I was driving lead that day and in we went. 7 kilometres later we came out ? but more to the point, it was a single lane the whole way! When I told this to my husband on the phone he said ? oh I get it ? there are traffic lights at each end and you wait while one group comes out and then you go ? wrong. It?s a very interesting experience to meet a car head on in a tunnel. There are many pull-offs, so I pulled over, allowing room for the other 2 cars to snug in behind me. My cousin, who was driving the car behind me, couldn?t see the headlights of the oncoming car and thought I was pulling over to take a photograph - the usual reason I pulled over (oh, except for when you have to pull over because sheep are on the road ? I forgot to mention that until now, but that happens frequently). Apparently the air in their car turned blue when she saw me pulling over ?Why is Liz taking a *&^%#$%* photograph now?????? Then she saw the headlights.
A few more kilometers of good paved road, and then back to gravel. (Category #2 gravel, dontcha know!). For the next two hours we climbed up and down various mountains ? from verdant valleys with great masses of fog (I love the book the Mists of Avalon ? at any moment the Lady of the Lakes could have appeared), to desolate, gravel highlands. At one point we saw a waterfall in the distance ? as we approached we realized how beautiful it was ? Dynjandi! The falls I had completely dismissed as being too far a drive from Isafjordur! This was truly the middle of nowhere. We hadn?t seen another car in over an hour (and that was a good thing, because in a few places it would have been difficult to pull over).
3.5 hours after leaving Isafjordur we arrived at the ferry ? a bit early, but no one minded. We had coffee and boarded the ferry to Stykkisholmur.
The Ferry is about 3 hours ? we all mostly read and slept (in 10 days this was the first time I opened the book I brought to read). The food on the ferry is awful ? eat first.
Arrived at Stykkisholmur and drove to our hotel at Grundarfjordur ? another total scenery change. Much more western Canada like ? peaked, Alpine-like mountains ? and amazing green carpets of colour. Pulled into the Hotel Framnes (1 night) about 5pm.
This was our only dodgy hotel. While the rooms were spotlessly clean, they were very minimal and the hotel was right in the middle of the fish processing area and had a certain odour. While the hotel restaurant is quite well regarded, no one was interested in dining there due to the smell. I had one other restaurant possibility for the town ? Krakanes ? so a couple of us went to check it out.
The gentleman who greeted us was very nice and said that 10 people at 7pm would be fine ? we arrived on schedule, and while they had a few problems serving our large group at first, everything worked out splendidly in the end.
When we first arrived they were busy with several other tables ? we waited a long time with no service. I spoke to the hostess and as graciously as I could asked if our group was just too large for them to handle. No ? she assured me, she and her husband (the gentleman we first spoke with) had called their daughter and she was on her way and all would be well. That sounded great! Her daughter arrived in a couple of minutes and I told her all we needed was some wine to make us happy ? so she pointed me in the general direction and between the two of us we served wine ? everyone was happy!
She quickly took our orders, but warned us it would be up to 40 minutes ? that was fine, as long as we knew. She asked us where we were from ? as soon as we said we were ?Vestern Eeslangdeurs? her face lit up!
The meal was outstanding ? at one point I looked in the kitchen and the mother and father were moving at lightening speed. Half of us had halibut and the other half rack of lamb ? it was delicious! (to be honest ? the vegetables were frozen, but the main courses of halibut and lamb were terrific). When we were all served, the father came out with a huge platter of extra halibut for everyone?it was exceptional. When we finished dinner we asked the daughter to invite her parents to the table ? a big round of applause welcomed them! After dinner they brought out every bottle of liqueur from behind the bar ? they wished to buy us a drink. By now I?m sure you realize this was the wrong group to offer a free drink! The husband and wife joined us, and we had a lovely visit.
Once again I marveled at my father?s Icelandic.
(by this point we were experts on road bed surfaces ? going so far as to having a 5 point rating system for them!)
One of the first events was the tunnel outside of Isafjordur ? I had read about the fact there was a tunnel through the mountains, but it didn?t seem to be a big deal. So when we came to it?I assumed it was a kilometer or so. Wrong. I was driving lead that day and in we went. 7 kilometres later we came out ? but more to the point, it was a single lane the whole way! When I told this to my husband on the phone he said ? oh I get it ? there are traffic lights at each end and you wait while one group comes out and then you go ? wrong. It?s a very interesting experience to meet a car head on in a tunnel. There are many pull-offs, so I pulled over, allowing room for the other 2 cars to snug in behind me. My cousin, who was driving the car behind me, couldn?t see the headlights of the oncoming car and thought I was pulling over to take a photograph - the usual reason I pulled over (oh, except for when you have to pull over because sheep are on the road ? I forgot to mention that until now, but that happens frequently). Apparently the air in their car turned blue when she saw me pulling over ?Why is Liz taking a *&^%#$%* photograph now?????? Then she saw the headlights.
A few more kilometers of good paved road, and then back to gravel. (Category #2 gravel, dontcha know!). For the next two hours we climbed up and down various mountains ? from verdant valleys with great masses of fog (I love the book the Mists of Avalon ? at any moment the Lady of the Lakes could have appeared), to desolate, gravel highlands. At one point we saw a waterfall in the distance ? as we approached we realized how beautiful it was ? Dynjandi! The falls I had completely dismissed as being too far a drive from Isafjordur! This was truly the middle of nowhere. We hadn?t seen another car in over an hour (and that was a good thing, because in a few places it would have been difficult to pull over).
3.5 hours after leaving Isafjordur we arrived at the ferry ? a bit early, but no one minded. We had coffee and boarded the ferry to Stykkisholmur.
The Ferry is about 3 hours ? we all mostly read and slept (in 10 days this was the first time I opened the book I brought to read). The food on the ferry is awful ? eat first.
Arrived at Stykkisholmur and drove to our hotel at Grundarfjordur ? another total scenery change. Much more western Canada like ? peaked, Alpine-like mountains ? and amazing green carpets of colour. Pulled into the Hotel Framnes (1 night) about 5pm.
This was our only dodgy hotel. While the rooms were spotlessly clean, they were very minimal and the hotel was right in the middle of the fish processing area and had a certain odour. While the hotel restaurant is quite well regarded, no one was interested in dining there due to the smell. I had one other restaurant possibility for the town ? Krakanes ? so a couple of us went to check it out.
The gentleman who greeted us was very nice and said that 10 people at 7pm would be fine ? we arrived on schedule, and while they had a few problems serving our large group at first, everything worked out splendidly in the end.
When we first arrived they were busy with several other tables ? we waited a long time with no service. I spoke to the hostess and as graciously as I could asked if our group was just too large for them to handle. No ? she assured me, she and her husband (the gentleman we first spoke with) had called their daughter and she was on her way and all would be well. That sounded great! Her daughter arrived in a couple of minutes and I told her all we needed was some wine to make us happy ? so she pointed me in the general direction and between the two of us we served wine ? everyone was happy!
She quickly took our orders, but warned us it would be up to 40 minutes ? that was fine, as long as we knew. She asked us where we were from ? as soon as we said we were ?Vestern Eeslangdeurs? her face lit up!
The meal was outstanding ? at one point I looked in the kitchen and the mother and father were moving at lightening speed. Half of us had halibut and the other half rack of lamb ? it was delicious! (to be honest ? the vegetables were frozen, but the main courses of halibut and lamb were terrific). When we were all served, the father came out with a huge platter of extra halibut for everyone?it was exceptional. When we finished dinner we asked the daughter to invite her parents to the table ? a big round of applause welcomed them! After dinner they brought out every bottle of liqueur from behind the bar ? they wished to buy us a drink. By now I?m sure you realize this was the wrong group to offer a free drink! The husband and wife joined us, and we had a lovely visit.
Once again I marveled at my father?s Icelandic.
Jun 19th, 2003, 05:13 PM
#23
Original Poster
Sorry...the last couple of postings are plagued with odd markings - i.e. ???? - I'm writing this is Word and then transferring it over, and making corrections in the Fodors Edit function, but that seems to have stopped working - arrggghhh!
Fortunately I'm almost done - will create everything within Fodors from here on out.
Fortunately I'm almost done - will create everything within Fodors from here on out.
Oct 27th, 2003, 05:34 PM
#24
Original Poster
Life got in the way for the last few months, but I'm determined to finish this trip report - details for the last few days are a little sketchier (and shorter too - that might be a good thing!) Here goes:
Day 11
Some different selections for breakfast - including pancakes! Some of the group decided to go directly to Reykjavik while the rest of us toured around the Snaefellsnes Peninsula (according the hotel owner - the most beautiful place in Iceland). We stopped at a beautiful, long, vacant beach by the side of the road and walked, collected shells and stones, and just enjoyed the freedom and the peace.
From there we travelled around the end of the peninsula past the Snaefellsjokul - a glacier covered volcano (one of the most active in Iceland).
The road was quite good for quite a ways and then it changed to the typical one-way, dirt road once we passed most of the civilization.
We had a brief encounter with a road crew. They were blocking our way with heaps of sand and heavy equipment. We were prepared to turn around and go back when the bulldozer pulled towards us and leveled out a path for us to get through and then pulled aside for us to pass. Very accommodating!!
We passed into miles of volcanic rock that had been thrown by the volcano and looked like a planted crop of jagged boulders.
The hotel manager had suggested that we stop at Hellnar for lunch and a break. We found the road, although from the main road you would never know a town or anything like it existed. Up a hill, around a corner, down the road and we came upon a few homes and buildings. Until we came almost to the end, we would not have known a café existed. But we found a small sign and a driveway that looked like it drove down in the ocean itself.
The café was a small, stone building perched securely on the side of the cliff with a sunny deck overlooking the Atlantic. We had a wonderful view of the ocean and of a sea cave where hundreds of sea birds flew in, out and around. The temperature was around 22 deg C, the sky was bright blue, and there was little wind - perfect!! Inside the café the cook was baking a fresh apple pie - a rich, sumptuous aroma that was impossible to resist. We decided to have some lunch and wait for the pie to come out of the oven.
What a peaceful, calming experience after some of the previous day?s rush.
From there we started our final stretch into Reykjavik - about 2.5 hours. We stopped briefly in Borgarnes before the under-sea tunnel (about 4 km long).
In Reykjavik we had a change of hotels. The Plaza had not yet opened, so we were put up in the Radisson Saga. Not as nicely placed downtown as the Plaza would have been, but a very nice hotel. Everyone was tired so we ordered Pizza (Dominos!!!) and had an early night.
Day 12
Our package included a walking tour of Iceland but by now many were tired and just wanted to lounge around the hotel. 6 of us met the tour guide and had a lovely tour of the downtown area, then back to the hotel at mid day for packing and a rest.
Around 6:30 we dressed and were off to a well-known seafood restaurant in Reykjavik. We arrived there and found they had set the table for 12, not 10. We had them remove 2 places and were just getting settled when an elderly couple approached our table. We had no idea who they were! They announced that they were relatives and were joining us for dinner. No idea how they knew we were here!
The man sat beside me, in the centre of the table, and his wife across from him. They introduced themselves as Sig & Helga and distributed copies of his family tree (the usual Icelandic greeting). His research in lineage had gone back to around 860 A.D., and started there with some King of the Uplands. From what we could understand, Sig is related to our grandfather through their great grandfather (or something).
A very interesting man and a celebrated philatelist who has written 52 books about stamp collecting and genealogy.
Day 11
Some different selections for breakfast - including pancakes! Some of the group decided to go directly to Reykjavik while the rest of us toured around the Snaefellsnes Peninsula (according the hotel owner - the most beautiful place in Iceland). We stopped at a beautiful, long, vacant beach by the side of the road and walked, collected shells and stones, and just enjoyed the freedom and the peace.
From there we travelled around the end of the peninsula past the Snaefellsjokul - a glacier covered volcano (one of the most active in Iceland).
The road was quite good for quite a ways and then it changed to the typical one-way, dirt road once we passed most of the civilization.
We had a brief encounter with a road crew. They were blocking our way with heaps of sand and heavy equipment. We were prepared to turn around and go back when the bulldozer pulled towards us and leveled out a path for us to get through and then pulled aside for us to pass. Very accommodating!!
We passed into miles of volcanic rock that had been thrown by the volcano and looked like a planted crop of jagged boulders.
The hotel manager had suggested that we stop at Hellnar for lunch and a break. We found the road, although from the main road you would never know a town or anything like it existed. Up a hill, around a corner, down the road and we came upon a few homes and buildings. Until we came almost to the end, we would not have known a café existed. But we found a small sign and a driveway that looked like it drove down in the ocean itself.
The café was a small, stone building perched securely on the side of the cliff with a sunny deck overlooking the Atlantic. We had a wonderful view of the ocean and of a sea cave where hundreds of sea birds flew in, out and around. The temperature was around 22 deg C, the sky was bright blue, and there was little wind - perfect!! Inside the café the cook was baking a fresh apple pie - a rich, sumptuous aroma that was impossible to resist. We decided to have some lunch and wait for the pie to come out of the oven.
What a peaceful, calming experience after some of the previous day?s rush.
From there we started our final stretch into Reykjavik - about 2.5 hours. We stopped briefly in Borgarnes before the under-sea tunnel (about 4 km long).
In Reykjavik we had a change of hotels. The Plaza had not yet opened, so we were put up in the Radisson Saga. Not as nicely placed downtown as the Plaza would have been, but a very nice hotel. Everyone was tired so we ordered Pizza (Dominos!!!) and had an early night.
Day 12
Our package included a walking tour of Iceland but by now many were tired and just wanted to lounge around the hotel. 6 of us met the tour guide and had a lovely tour of the downtown area, then back to the hotel at mid day for packing and a rest.
Around 6:30 we dressed and were off to a well-known seafood restaurant in Reykjavik. We arrived there and found they had set the table for 12, not 10. We had them remove 2 places and were just getting settled when an elderly couple approached our table. We had no idea who they were! They announced that they were relatives and were joining us for dinner. No idea how they knew we were here!
The man sat beside me, in the centre of the table, and his wife across from him. They introduced themselves as Sig & Helga and distributed copies of his family tree (the usual Icelandic greeting). His research in lineage had gone back to around 860 A.D., and started there with some King of the Uplands. From what we could understand, Sig is related to our grandfather through their great grandfather (or something).
A very interesting man and a celebrated philatelist who has written 52 books about stamp collecting and genealogy.
Oct 27th, 2003, 05:53 PM
#25
Original Poster
Postscript - it's been several months since our trip and as you can see I only just finished the last part of the trip report tonight.
Since our trip, my 91 year old father and his 87 year old brother journeyed to Winnipeg to visit (yet more) relatives - mainly to tell them about our trip!
We all now keep in close contact - we're still swapping photos and memories/journals from the trip. Several of my cousins on the west coast are gathering next month to make traditional Icelandic dishes to serve at Christmas - some of the recipes supplied by family we met in Iceland.
It was a wonderful experience....
Since our trip, my 91 year old father and his 87 year old brother journeyed to Winnipeg to visit (yet more) relatives - mainly to tell them about our trip!
We all now keep in close contact - we're still swapping photos and memories/journals from the trip. Several of my cousins on the west coast are gathering next month to make traditional Icelandic dishes to serve at Christmas - some of the recipes supplied by family we met in Iceland.
It was a wonderful experience....
Apr 24th, 2005, 02:23 PM
#33
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Elizabeth,
Your report is beautiful. I must say it brought tears at certain points.
Have never been to Iceland but will be there for only two days this summer. I know I'll think about you and your family.
Thank you.
Your report is beautiful. I must say it brought tears at certain points.
Have never been to Iceland but will be there for only two days this summer. I know I'll think about you and your family.
Thank you.
Apr 24th, 2005, 02:52 PM
#34
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Hello Elizabeth, I certainly have no ancestors from Iceland but I just saw your trip report today and read it as I have a grandson who plans on visiting Iceland this year.
So I read your report to get more famaliar with Iceland. And I did but I also got very involved with your trip, your family, your journey. Such a beautiful and heart moving trip report. I don't know if you will read this but if you do I just want to thank you from the bottom of my heart for sharing your experiences here on Fodor's.
So I read your report to get more famaliar with Iceland. And I did but I also got very involved with your trip, your family, your journey. Such a beautiful and heart moving trip report. I don't know if you will read this but if you do I just want to thank you from the bottom of my heart for sharing your experiences here on Fodor's.
Apr 25th, 2005, 02:40 PM
#35
Original Poster
Thank you to dkrom96 and LoveItaly for your lovely comments....I was just on the phone to my dad (who is now 93) and he was enquiring as to when we're going back to Iceland! We should all be like Victor at 93!
Apr 25th, 2005, 03:39 PM
#36
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Hi Elizabeth, I sure hope you can get your Dad back to Iceland while he still feels up to it! My goodness, what is his secret in life? He sounds terrific. Good luck with working out this next trip.
Apr 25th, 2005, 08:08 PM
#37
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Elizabeth-Thanks for writing this report(I never caught it when you first wrote it so am glad that someone topped it). My husband is Icelandic(the relatives are from the Westmann Islands and also immigrated to Canada) and I have been hoping to take him back as a surprise someday. Your report has inspired me to get on the stick and start planning something for the near future.
Apr 13th, 2006, 07:09 AM
#39
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Elizabeth,
My husband and I might be related to you. Svartarkot is his great-grandfather's farm, he immigrated to Winnipeg in the late 1800's. Email me if you have a moment as I would love to further discuss. My honemoon was almost the identical trip you describe, including the trip to the farm! [email protected]
My husband and I might be related to you. Svartarkot is his great-grandfather's farm, he immigrated to Winnipeg in the late 1800's. Email me if you have a moment as I would love to further discuss. My honemoon was almost the identical trip you describe, including the trip to the farm! [email protected]
Apr 13th, 2006, 07:12 AM
#40
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For the rest on this board, I am a French/Ukranian woman that married an Icelander. Our honeymoon was to discover his Icelandic roots...I ended up falling in love with the land, the people, culture and language. The pin on my jacket says "Icelandic by Marriage!" I want to go back some day!
