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Trip Report - 10 Days in Switzerland! Preparing, Packing, 1st Day in Luzern

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Trip Report - 10 Days in Switzerland! Preparing, Packing, 1st Day in Luzern

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Old Nov 14th, 2010, 05:14 PM
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Trip Report - 10 Days in Switzerland! Preparing, Packing, 1st Day in Luzern

Switzerland September 17-27, 2010

I'll begin by posting a review of each day of our trip, along with photos and other links. When I’m done, I’ll pull it all together into one long post of the entire trip. That way, if someone is interested in reading about a particular place or excursion, he or she can read just the individual post without having to “dig” through the entire journal. The posts will include:

Luzern, with the Mt. Pilatus “Golden Roud trip”

The Berner Oberland – Lauterbrunnen, Murren, Wengen, Interlaken, the Jungfraujoch, Lake Thun, Thun, Lake Breinz

Montreux, including the Castle of Chillon; Vevey, Lausanne; the Lavaux vineyards cruise

Zermatt and the Glacier Express

Zurich and Stein-am-Rhein

Planning for the Weather, Packing, and Money

A friend had traveled to Switzerland in late September and said the weather was wonderful, and this was seconded by many posters. We had beautiful sunny days for most of the trip, with only a little rain and even a bit of snow! Summer flowers were still blooming, but we also saw a few trees decked out in their autumn colors.

I checked several forecasts right up to the time we left and packed accordingly, but instead of the predicted highs in the 50-60’s F., most days the highs were in the 70’s, and I wished I had brought at least one short-sleeved blouse as much of the time I ended up wearing just the T-shirts that were my first layer. I did take an all-weather coat with a warm zip-out lining, gloves, and a warm headband to cover my ears, but only needed these on the trip to the Gornergrat in Zermatt. The coat (without the lining) was needed on chillier mornings and evenings, and on some lake cruises when sitting outside. I was glad that I packed two small umbrellas as we encountered rain in Zermatt and Zurich. We each had a 21-inch rollaboard suitcase and a small backpack. My husband took his laptop so that we could check schedules along the way and communicate with family and friends, and we had the special Swiss adapter for plugs (different than the one used most places in Europe), though we seldom needed it. All of our devices were dual voltage, so we did not need the converter. I printed out portions of recommendations from message boards and maps with directions from the rail station to the hotel in each city, and we took a map of Switzerland on which we marked our route, and our guidebooks. We each had a cell phone and signed up for a one-month plan that allowed us to make long-distance calls at a cheaper per minute rate. Each of us carried a passport, credit cards, and some cash in a money belt under our clothes. We took along 500 chf, which we ordered from American Express before we left (and later exchanged about $50 cash for Swiss francs toward the end of the trip), and charged hotels, more expensive meals, and the Swiss Pass and supplements for excursions to one of two credit cards. We no longer shop or buy souvenirs (except for small items for our children) when we travel (though we did when we were younger), and we don’t drink alcohol or many soft drinks, so we don’t spend a great deal above the cost of the airfare (for which we used points), travel within the country, hotels, meals, and excursions. We packed several energy/fiber bars (which came in handy on trains and boats) and carried our own refillable water bottles. We figure that the less we spend on each trip, the more trips we can take!

A Little Background

We are a couple in our early 60’s, married over 40 years, who love to travel. We have visited some wonderful places in North America, the Caribbean, Europe, and Africa, though not nearly as many we would have liked. As we move out of the time of our lives when we were focused on rearing a family and developing our careers and approach retirement, we see ourselves as being at the beginning of our “traveling years,” during which we hope to see as many places as time, money, and circumstances will allow.

We prepared for our trip to Switzerland (or I should say, “I prepared…” since I am the family vacation planner) by reading threee Switzerland guidebooks and spending MANY hours on their travel forums, as well as scouring Tripadvisor (mostly for hotels) and other web sites. For me, planning the trip is half the fun. (Well, maybe not half, but it does create and sustain my excitement during the months between booking the flight and traveling.) We chose not to visit museums or castles (except for the Castle of Chillon and the Schloss Museum in Thun) and to visit only a few highly recommended churches as we wished to focus on the scenery and simply walking through the towns and villages. We didn’t have time to “get in shape” for hiking and climbing, as we had hoped, before the trip, so hikes were not included, although we did a lot of walking up and down the hilly cities we visited. We each took two pairs of shoes, a light weight walking shoe and a heavier “casual hiking” shoe.

What’s Included in Each Post

I’ve included links to our photos, and took photos of the hotel rooms, bathrooms, and balcony views, as well as photos of some of our meals, to provide an idea of what to expect when budgeting for hotel and food costs. Many photos are linked to Google maps so that you can see where they were taken. I’ve also included links to the hotels and to some restaurants, and as much information as I have available on the cost of hotels, meals, trains, boats, excursions, and in some cases, travel times, for those who are interested in knowing the details to help in planning YOUR trip! I’ve also included comments on changes we would make to our plans were we to do the trip again.

Be aware that this is a very busy itinerary designed to see as much as possible in the time we had available ~ not a leisurely vacation! (For those we take a cruise or head to the beach.) We view travel as a way of learning about new people and places, and we try to maximize our exposure to new experiences. If we see something we love, we hope to return later for a more in-depth encounter. We know that this fast-paced style of travel is not everyone’s preference, but it works for us. We did intersperse busy sightseeing days with more leisurely days or half days of riding on the train or cruising on the beautiful lakes ~ both highlights of our trip. We loved the transportation system in Switzerland and regret that we are so totally dependent on cars at home.

So buckle your seat belts ~ here we go!

Off to Switzerland! (Friday-Saturday) From Home to Toronto to Zurich

We caught our departing flight at 7:40 am on Air Canada and arrived in Toronto just after 11:00 am. After a confusing passage through a surprisingly small airport, we found our way to the international area, where we had lunch at Coyote Jack’s, which served a better-than- average-for -airport-food burger and fries. (2 burgers, 1 large fry to split, 1 drink, 1 water for $15.44 Canadian). Our flight to Zurich was pushed back, so we had a 10-hour layover! We spent it rereading our guidebooks and getting in some exercise walking around the airport before the overnight flight. Dinner at the Bacardi restaurant was a shrimp salad for me and a Cuban sandwich for my husband ($30.53 Canadian, with tip), both, again unexpectedly good.

Day 1 (Saturday) Arrival in Zurich; train to Luzern

The Air Canada flight to Zurich (7 hours) was comfortable - more leg room than on many international flights – and for the first time ever, I was able to sleep until we were awakened for breakfast. We arrived in Zurich at 10:55 am and planned to head quickly for Luzern, but I felt very nauseated (this has never happened before!), which slowed us down quite a bit. We bought our 15-day first class Swiss Saver Pass ($1188 for the two of us) at the rail station (conveniently located right in the airport) and headed off on the train for Luzern, just over an hour away. We had our first introduction to the wonder of Swiss rail travel, and our first glimpse of the lovely Swiss countryside.

Note: Had we thought about it in advance, we could have gotten by with an 8-day pass and paid separately for travel from Zurich to Luzern on the first day and from our hotel to the Zurich airport on our last. (Doing a major home remodeling project in the months before the trip interfered with my usually meticulous planning!) We enjoyed traveling first class in part because there was more room (fewer and wider seats) but primarily because it was less crowded than second class. On one leg of the trip we had an entire car to ourselves for most of the trip! This sometimes allowed us to move from one side of the train to the other to get a better view of the scenery and to photograph it. It also allowed us to ride on the upper deck of the boats, which provided a nicer view, and was also less crowded. That said, we did ride second class on the Glacier Express from Zermatt to Chur because we left our last two days flexible and didn’t know when we would leave Zermatt. By the time we booked our seats, all of the first class seats had been booked. It was quite comfortable in second class but very packed, and we were unable to get window seats, so taking photos was difficult.

Luzern – What a Jewel!

Link to Luzern photo album
http://picasaweb.google.com/chrisnbill
The organization of the photos generally follows the narrative.

We arrived in Luzern at about 2 pm, and our walk from the station across the bridge to the Hotel des Alpes was less than 5 minutes. We’d booked a lake view room with a balcony (room 457, I think), and like many hotel rooms in Europe, it was rather small but comfortable, with a small but modern bathroom. We were more interested in the view than the room, and when we opened the curtain and stepped out on the balcony, we were more than pleased. We looked directly onto the Chapel Bridge and could see the Reuss River both east and west, and on to Lake Luzern and the mountains beyond.

We checked in (the entrance is on Furrengasse, not on the river front), dropped our luggage, grabbed our guidebooks, and began our walking tour of old town Luzern. Our first encounter was with the cheese vendors, who were either there for the regular Saturday market day or perhaps a special festival. We sampled several cheeses, and on our return to the hotel later in the day, bought a wedge of a wonderful variety, the name of which I have unfortunately forgotten as I would have liked to search it out at home.

Crossing back over the Seebrucke (bridge) that connects to the rail station, we began our exploration of Luzern on the south side of the Reuss River, following the Bahnhofstrasse, which was lined with stalls selling fruits, vegetables, sausages, sweets, and flowers. We passed the Jesuit Church and the Reuss River water spikes, a mid-19th century dam used to control the flow of water and prevent the flooding of lakeside villages. Spikes are added or removed as needed to control the level of the river. Farther along the south bank, we encountered the Mill Bridge (Spreurbrucke), built in 1407 and restored in the 19th century, and home to original 17th-century paintings (The Dance of Death) commemorating a plague that swept the city. This bridge carried us across the river to the Muhlenplatz (Mills Square); the Weinmarkt (Weinmarket), home of the Hotel des Balances with its beautifully painted façade; and Hirschenplatz (Stag Square), filled with more historic buildings with painted facades. A sign painted on Goldener Adler in Stag Square, announces that writer and philosopher Goethe stayed here in 1779. (His best known writing is the drama Faust.) From there we continued walking about half a mile to the exquisitely moving Lion Monument, commemorating the Swiss Guards who died in the Tuileries Palace in Paris while defending Marie Antionette during the French Revolution in 1792. Hurrying to the boat docks near the rail station to catch an early evening cruise on Lake Luzern, we found that we had misread the schedule and that the only departing boat was a fully booked dinner cruise. (The cruise we had wanted to take was available only Monday-Friday) Sated by our sampling at the market stalls, we returned to our hotel, where, later in the evening, the cheese we’d bought and a loaf of deliciously nutty bread from a local bakery served as dinner, eaten on our balcony overlooking the beautifully lighted Chapel Bridge and water tower.

What We Missed in Luzern

We could have spent another day exploring this beautiful city, and perhaps could have managed to see most of what we missed had we arrived in Luzern in the early morning, as our original flight schedule would have allowed us to do. We considered returning to Luzern on a day-trip from Zurich the following Sunday but chose instead to see someplace new.

Where We Stayed in Luzern

We stayed at the Hotel des Alpes (a 3 star hotel), built in 1740 as an inn for travelers. On the north bank of the River Reuss, it fronts on Rathausquai 5 but the entrance is on the other side of the building, at Furrengasse 3. The hotel is a 5-minute walk from the Luzern rail station. We paid 254 chf for a double room, lake view, with balcony; free Internet, wireless; delicious breakfast buffet with meats and cheeses, fruit, cereals, breads, jams, juice, and coffee. Frommers classifies it as a moderately priced hotel. Was the balcony and view worth the extra 50 chf? That depends on one’s priorities, but in our judgment, it provided a wonderful beginning to our tour of Switzerland (and some of our best photos!). www.desalpes-luzern.ch/

Food costs

We ate freshly baked bread and cheese, a takeaway sandwich, and a sweet of some kind from a street vendor. We didn’t keep track, but probably spent less than $20 on food. We took our own water bottles with us and filled them in the hotel, then refilled them at public fountains to cut down on the cost of buying water and other drinks.

I hope that you enjoyed this introduction to our trip. I promise that the remaining posts will be MUCH shorter!
drchris is offline  
Old Nov 14th, 2010, 06:41 PM
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What a nice report. I loved the detail of your report, even the food cost paragraph. Thank you for sharing your trip!
sandicran is offline  
Old Nov 15th, 2010, 06:22 AM
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Enjoying your post!
We, too, took water bottles to Zurich for our June trip and refilled them during the day from the numerous water fountains for a cool refreshing drink. Ahh, water--the champagne of americans!
To be honest, I took along several dry packets of Propel water flavoring which made it even better!
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Old Nov 15th, 2010, 11:11 AM
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Very nice start---I too like Luzern and have stayed at Des Alpes as well.
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Old Nov 15th, 2010, 11:27 AM
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This is a lovely report, and you are so well organized! I'm looking forward to more memories of Switzerland, and great photos!
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Old Nov 15th, 2010, 04:54 PM
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Thanks! I love to writer about as much as I love to travel. I try to enjoy a trip 3 times - planning it, being on it, and writing about it afterward. It prolongs the enjoyment - and helps to keep the details fresh in my mind.
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Old Nov 15th, 2010, 08:32 PM
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Hi drchris,

I'm also enjoying this lovely report! I love the detail, which makes it easy for me to take a vicarious trip there!

I do want to add a few things, though, for other travellers who read this in the future. Some great things that you don't mention about Luzern are all the wonderful little villages dotted along the lake -- Weggis, Vitznau, Brunnen. And of course some of the nearby peaks -- Rigi, Pilatus, Titlis. And the nearby mountain village of Engelberg. I like to advise folks to spend a few days in Luzern to at least see one lakeside village and one peak.

Anyway -- thanks so much for posting!

s
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Old Nov 15th, 2010, 08:35 PM
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Ok, I see that you do have a ferry trip on your next travel day, and that you ascend Pilatus. So, for other travellers who want this information, here's a link to that part of the report:

http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...nen-murren.cfm

s
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Old Jan 29th, 2011, 07:34 AM
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ttt
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