Trip Report 10/22-10/31, 2005: Rome, Amalfi Coast, Florence, and Venice
Nov 1st, 2005, 01:34 PM
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Trip Report 10/22-10/31, 2005: Rome, Amalfi Coast, Florence, and Venice
Just got back yesterday from Italy. Figure I'd write a report before I start to foget things. This was a whirlwind 'tour' of Italy with my husband's Parents and his brother(4 Cities in 8 days)! Since I did the research and has been to Italy before, I was the designated tour guide
I booked our train tickets from trenitalia's website, and booked the car transfers online too. Hopefully this will help out someone who's planning a vacation....
ROME
Weather-70's, sunny.
Transfers-
*we used Airport connection to transfer us from FCO to our hotel (www.airportconnection.it). The driver was about 20 min late but the last time they waited 2 hrs for us(late flight). Good rates. The rest of the time our hotel would call a cab that fits 5 passengers.
Hotel-
We stayed at the Sofitel Roma. It's a few blocks behind the Spanish steps so we cabbed everywhere.
The hotel has awesome service (best I've had in Italy) and really upgraded rooms. I think they renovated not long ago. The rate is pretty good for a 4 * hotel, very quiet at night so we get a good night's sleep. We had a double and a triple. It's worth the $35 E to upgrade to a triple room because the size of the bathroom and the br in the triple is almost doubled the size of a regular room. Internet access from your tv. $10 E an hour.
Restaurants
-nothing really memorable, so I won't list it. We grabbed mostly sandwiches/pizzas because we were on the go.
Suggestions...
-when you go to the Colosium, get a tour guide (you can bypass the long line). BUT make sure that the tour includes the Colosium AND the Forum. We paid $18 E a person and yes, the Forum tour's included but it's only offered in the mornings (which is a bunch of crap). We were there at around noon time.
-give you self plenty of time to get to the train station. We got stuck in traffic because of some demonstration/protest.
next... the Amalfi coast.
I booked our train tickets from trenitalia's website, and booked the car transfers online too. Hopefully this will help out someone who's planning a vacation....ROME
Weather-70's, sunny.
Transfers-
*we used Airport connection to transfer us from FCO to our hotel (www.airportconnection.it). The driver was about 20 min late but the last time they waited 2 hrs for us(late flight). Good rates. The rest of the time our hotel would call a cab that fits 5 passengers.
Hotel-
We stayed at the Sofitel Roma. It's a few blocks behind the Spanish steps so we cabbed everywhere.
The hotel has awesome service (best I've had in Italy) and really upgraded rooms. I think they renovated not long ago. The rate is pretty good for a 4 * hotel, very quiet at night so we get a good night's sleep. We had a double and a triple. It's worth the $35 E to upgrade to a triple room because the size of the bathroom and the br in the triple is almost doubled the size of a regular room. Internet access from your tv. $10 E an hour.
Restaurants
-nothing really memorable, so I won't list it. We grabbed mostly sandwiches/pizzas because we were on the go.
Suggestions...
-when you go to the Colosium, get a tour guide (you can bypass the long line). BUT make sure that the tour includes the Colosium AND the Forum. We paid $18 E a person and yes, the Forum tour's included but it's only offered in the mornings (which is a bunch of crap). We were there at around noon time.
-give you self plenty of time to get to the train station. We got stuck in traffic because of some demonstration/protest.
next... the Amalfi coast.
Nov 1st, 2005, 02:57 PM
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THE AMALFI COAST
-we went to Pompeii, Ravello, Amalfi, Positano, Capri, and Sorrento.
Weather-75 degree, sunny, perfect.
Transfers-
**we used Renato Cuomo (www.cuomonet.it). He was waiting for us when we stepped outside of the train and escorted us to the train on our way to Florence. Very professional and very competitive rates (90 E from Positano to Naples).
-to/from Capri we took the Ferry (12 or 15E).
-SITA bus from Sorrento to Positano is so convenient. The bus is almost like a coach bus, nice seats that you can recline. It took 40 min and the fee is only $1.40E.
Hotel-
**We stayed at the Villa Rosa in Positano. The rooms were pretty standard but oh my! The outdoor terrace (20 x15?) and the view is amazing!! My favorite time of day is to have breakfast at the terrace every morning. Room #36 had the big outdoor space, smaller bathroom; Room #37 (a suite) has bigger bathroom but extremely small outdoor space. Recommed this place but do note that there are no elevators. I'd stay on the 3 floor or above so your view won't get blocked by Le Sirenuse. The hotel is also 5 min walk from the SITA bus stop, very convient!
Tours-
Renato got us a guide in Pompeii, his name is Stephano. Very good guide. His rate for 5 of us was 90E for 2 hrs. I'm really not a museum sort of person but he made the tour very interesting.
We got on this Blue Grotto tour at Capri. Basically the boat takes you around the island and stops at different points of interest. But if you want to go in to the Blue Grotto you have to pay extra---$8 E per person. It's nice to see the grotto at least once, but the tour wasn't even 10 min long.
Restaurants-
*Ravello-we had lunch at Da Salvatore. The fish was really fresh and the view of the coast is out of this world! They have an outdoor dining space but even the indoor room has windows that open so you get the ocean breeze.
*Sorrento-we stopped and had lunch at Fauno Bar. IT's located in the main square. We dined outside and the food was pretty good. One of the cleaner restaurants.
*Positano-had dinner right by our hotel. I think it's called Ristorante de Bruno. It's a smaller restaurant, with nice view of the ocean.
Suggestions-
-use the SITA bus when you can. It's a really cheap/fast way to get around the coast.
-There's a restaurant on the beach of Positano, Bucca de Bacco. They have an internet cafe/bar on the side of the restaurant ($6 E /hr). It's a great place to hang out w/ cool music & drinks while you check you email.
Next.... Florence and Shopping.
-we went to Pompeii, Ravello, Amalfi, Positano, Capri, and Sorrento.
Weather-75 degree, sunny, perfect.
Transfers-
**we used Renato Cuomo (www.cuomonet.it). He was waiting for us when we stepped outside of the train and escorted us to the train on our way to Florence. Very professional and very competitive rates (90 E from Positano to Naples).
-to/from Capri we took the Ferry (12 or 15E).
-SITA bus from Sorrento to Positano is so convenient. The bus is almost like a coach bus, nice seats that you can recline. It took 40 min and the fee is only $1.40E.
Hotel-
**We stayed at the Villa Rosa in Positano. The rooms were pretty standard but oh my! The outdoor terrace (20 x15?) and the view is amazing!! My favorite time of day is to have breakfast at the terrace every morning. Room #36 had the big outdoor space, smaller bathroom; Room #37 (a suite) has bigger bathroom but extremely small outdoor space. Recommed this place but do note that there are no elevators. I'd stay on the 3 floor or above so your view won't get blocked by Le Sirenuse. The hotel is also 5 min walk from the SITA bus stop, very convient!
Tours-
Renato got us a guide in Pompeii, his name is Stephano. Very good guide. His rate for 5 of us was 90E for 2 hrs. I'm really not a museum sort of person but he made the tour very interesting.
We got on this Blue Grotto tour at Capri. Basically the boat takes you around the island and stops at different points of interest. But if you want to go in to the Blue Grotto you have to pay extra---$8 E per person. It's nice to see the grotto at least once, but the tour wasn't even 10 min long.
Restaurants-
*Ravello-we had lunch at Da Salvatore. The fish was really fresh and the view of the coast is out of this world! They have an outdoor dining space but even the indoor room has windows that open so you get the ocean breeze.
*Sorrento-we stopped and had lunch at Fauno Bar. IT's located in the main square. We dined outside and the food was pretty good. One of the cleaner restaurants.
*Positano-had dinner right by our hotel. I think it's called Ristorante de Bruno. It's a smaller restaurant, with nice view of the ocean.
Suggestions-
-use the SITA bus when you can. It's a really cheap/fast way to get around the coast.
-There's a restaurant on the beach of Positano, Bucca de Bacco. They have an internet cafe/bar on the side of the restaurant ($6 E /hr). It's a great place to hang out w/ cool music & drinks while you check you email.
Next.... Florence and Shopping.
Nov 2nd, 2005, 04:38 AM
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FLORENCE, OUTLETS & CHIANTI
-We spent a day walking around Florence, and another day shopping at the outlets & going to a winery in Chianti.
Weather-high 60's to low 70's, foggy in the morning but sunny in the afternoon.
Transfers-
we just got a 5 person taxi to get us to/from the train station -hotel.
Hotel-
We stayed at the Plaza Hotel Lucchessi. It's right by the river, about 2 blocks from S. Croce church. We had a nice room with the view of the river. Flat screen tv on the wall, nice rooms. The staff was really friendly & helpful.
Restaurant-
Probably the best meal we had was in a small restaurant across the Piazza from S. Croce Church. It's called Ristorante de Leo. They had awesome ravioli, osso bucco, and best dessert of all, Leo's cake (it's like a cheesecake except the cheese is fluffy w/ fruits on top). SO yummy!
Tours-
we booked a day tour with Lucca Garrapa from Hills & Roads(www.hillsandroads.com). He was 15 min late but the rest of the day went well. We spent the morning shopping at the Mall and Prada outlets. There were not too many sale items but we still got some nice deals on shoes ($100 E Prada shoes), belts ($15 E Burberry), $35E Burberry scarfs, and some coats. If I were to go back I'd go during sales season(Jan/July).
In the afternoon Lucca took us around the Chianti Classical region to see the scenery and to a winery, Castello D'Arbola. We ended the tour back in Florence at Piazzale Michelangelo, just in time for the sunset. The view was spectacular!
Suggestions...
-the leather school (by S. Croce church) is a good place to buy your leather items. The prices are reasonable and the quality is good.
-be careful if you're walking around the Piazzas at night. Some of the more popular ones (P. della Signoria, P. della Republica) have police presence, but one night we were walking at P. de Santa Croce, 3 strangers came up to us and asked if we wantd to play soccer. They not only asked but one guy even kicked my husband and Father in law. I guess that guy was supposed to distract us while the other 2 are supposed to take advantage and grab our belonings. Thank God it didn't work, we just yelled 'No!' and they ran away because our yelling got attentions from others. This was the ONLY mishap we had the entire trip, and I guess we are lucky nothing happened.
Next..... Venice.
-We spent a day walking around Florence, and another day shopping at the outlets & going to a winery in Chianti.
Weather-high 60's to low 70's, foggy in the morning but sunny in the afternoon.
Transfers-
we just got a 5 person taxi to get us to/from the train station -hotel.
Hotel-
We stayed at the Plaza Hotel Lucchessi. It's right by the river, about 2 blocks from S. Croce church. We had a nice room with the view of the river. Flat screen tv on the wall, nice rooms. The staff was really friendly & helpful.
Restaurant-
Probably the best meal we had was in a small restaurant across the Piazza from S. Croce Church. It's called Ristorante de Leo. They had awesome ravioli, osso bucco, and best dessert of all, Leo's cake (it's like a cheesecake except the cheese is fluffy w/ fruits on top). SO yummy!
Tours-
we booked a day tour with Lucca Garrapa from Hills & Roads(www.hillsandroads.com). He was 15 min late but the rest of the day went well. We spent the morning shopping at the Mall and Prada outlets. There were not too many sale items but we still got some nice deals on shoes ($100 E Prada shoes), belts ($15 E Burberry), $35E Burberry scarfs, and some coats. If I were to go back I'd go during sales season(Jan/July).
In the afternoon Lucca took us around the Chianti Classical region to see the scenery and to a winery, Castello D'Arbola. We ended the tour back in Florence at Piazzale Michelangelo, just in time for the sunset. The view was spectacular!
Suggestions...
-the leather school (by S. Croce church) is a good place to buy your leather items. The prices are reasonable and the quality is good.
-be careful if you're walking around the Piazzas at night. Some of the more popular ones (P. della Signoria, P. della Republica) have police presence, but one night we were walking at P. de Santa Croce, 3 strangers came up to us and asked if we wantd to play soccer. They not only asked but one guy even kicked my husband and Father in law. I guess that guy was supposed to distract us while the other 2 are supposed to take advantage and grab our belonings. Thank God it didn't work, we just yelled 'No!' and they ran away because our yelling got attentions from others. This was the ONLY mishap we had the entire trip, and I guess we are lucky nothing happened.
Next..... Venice.
Nov 2nd, 2005, 06:10 AM
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VENICE
Weather: cloudy, 60's.
We spent a day in Venice and the 2nd day in Murano.
Trasfers-
We either walked to took the water bus everywhere. For Murano we had a free taxi ride to one of the factories.
Hotel-
We stayed at the Sofitel Venezia, which is 5 min walk from the train station and the bus terminal. It was a bit far to get to St Mark's square but when we had to meet our taxi driver at 5am to go to the airport, it was only a 2 block walk to the van. Sofitel Venice is like the one in Rome, except the carpet is a bit older. The breakfast is served in the atrium room overlooking the park (Giardino Papadopoli). Beautiful.
Restaurants-
If you like seafood you'll like Venice. Here are 2 restaurants that we recommend:
**Madonna-It's in the alley about 2 blocks off of the Rialto bridge on the San Polo side. This was the only restaurant in Italy that we had to wait to get in (30-45 min?). I would suggest reserving ahead of time. The seafood risotto, crab meat on a seashell and the seafood soup are good choices. The place is really packed in, so if you like some ambiance, pick some other place.
**Cafe Orientale -this is located again 2-3 blocks from the Rialto bridge on the San Polo side, next to the Grand Canal. We had pizzas, fish soup, seafood risotto, and seabass again. Just as good as the last place but in a more comfy setting.
Suggestions...
***If you are going to dine right on St Mark's square, be prepared to pay. We wanted to take a break from walking, so we sat down and had a bottle of water, a coke, one ice cream, and fresh strawberries. Guess how much the tab was? $72E!! They apparantely included a $18E 'live music' charge that we weren't aware of. I wonder if that's per table or they count it per person?
***There were more shops in Murano than I thought. You really need at least 2/3 of the day to browse the different shops/factories. we did some purchase and had the glass shipped right back to the States. The name of the store is called Vetreria Artistica Gritti, right by the Colonna waterbus stop. Their price is a bit higher than others but shipping/insurance is included with the price.
***we all traveled with one small size carry on bag. It sure made it easier to transport to /from trains and lugging it in Venice!
Weather: cloudy, 60's.
We spent a day in Venice and the 2nd day in Murano.
Trasfers-
We either walked to took the water bus everywhere. For Murano we had a free taxi ride to one of the factories.
Hotel-
We stayed at the Sofitel Venezia, which is 5 min walk from the train station and the bus terminal. It was a bit far to get to St Mark's square but when we had to meet our taxi driver at 5am to go to the airport, it was only a 2 block walk to the van. Sofitel Venice is like the one in Rome, except the carpet is a bit older. The breakfast is served in the atrium room overlooking the park (Giardino Papadopoli). Beautiful.
Restaurants-
If you like seafood you'll like Venice. Here are 2 restaurants that we recommend:
**Madonna-It's in the alley about 2 blocks off of the Rialto bridge on the San Polo side. This was the only restaurant in Italy that we had to wait to get in (30-45 min?). I would suggest reserving ahead of time. The seafood risotto, crab meat on a seashell and the seafood soup are good choices. The place is really packed in, so if you like some ambiance, pick some other place.
**Cafe Orientale -this is located again 2-3 blocks from the Rialto bridge on the San Polo side, next to the Grand Canal. We had pizzas, fish soup, seafood risotto, and seabass again. Just as good as the last place but in a more comfy setting.
Suggestions...
***If you are going to dine right on St Mark's square, be prepared to pay. We wanted to take a break from walking, so we sat down and had a bottle of water, a coke, one ice cream, and fresh strawberries. Guess how much the tab was? $72E!! They apparantely included a $18E 'live music' charge that we weren't aware of. I wonder if that's per table or they count it per person?
***There were more shops in Murano than I thought. You really need at least 2/3 of the day to browse the different shops/factories. we did some purchase and had the glass shipped right back to the States. The name of the store is called Vetreria Artistica Gritti, right by the Colonna waterbus stop. Their price is a bit higher than others but shipping/insurance is included with the price.
***we all traveled with one small size carry on bag. It sure made it easier to transport to /from trains and lugging it in Venice!
Nov 2nd, 2005, 06:47 AM
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sammyc-
Re: Venice cafes on Piazza San Marco
> They apparantely included a $18E 'live music' charge that we weren't aware of. I wonder if that's per table or they count it per person? <
The music charge is person. I think this is mentioned in every guidebook, and it's also clearly printed in the menu. The 2 of us had one gelato and one pot of tea, and it came out to 35 euros. Just think of it as paying for a concert.
Re: Venice cafes on Piazza San Marco
> They apparantely included a $18E 'live music' charge that we weren't aware of. I wonder if that's per table or they count it per person? <
The music charge is person. I think this is mentioned in every guidebook, and it's also clearly printed in the menu. The 2 of us had one gelato and one pot of tea, and it came out to 35 euros. Just think of it as paying for a concert.
Nov 2nd, 2005, 07:28 AM
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111op, the charge is per person, not per table. I seem to have paid less last month than what I've read in several recent reports. It was 5E for the music charge and 7E for a glass of wine (or maybe the other way around), so 12E. I thought it was worth every penny!
Nov 2nd, 2005, 07:32 AM
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111op-
The music charge is € 4,50 per person. Assuming OP's table has 4 persons, that comes out to € 18.
Our music charge was € 9, plus a € 12 or 14 gelato, and € 10 tea. And the waiters made sure we knew that service charge was not included.
The music charge is € 4,50 per person. Assuming OP's table has 4 persons, that comes out to € 18.
Our music charge was € 9, plus a € 12 or 14 gelato, and € 10 tea. And the waiters made sure we knew that service charge was not included.
Nov 2nd, 2005, 10:18 AM
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Ok, thanks. I didn't understand that the 18 euros was the total that was charged to the table (and hence figure out that it'd have been 4.50 euros per person).
By the way the gelato at St. Marco was surprisingly cheap. I think that I only paid 2 euros or something (I didn't sit down). It was cheaper than what I was expecting.
I just walked into a cafe across from Carnegie Hall (Cafe Europa) on Monday. When I asked how much their gelato was, I found out it was an eye-popping 5.15 (?).
No thanks.
By the way the gelato at St. Marco was surprisingly cheap. I think that I only paid 2 euros or something (I didn't sit down). It was cheaper than what I was expecting.
I just walked into a cafe across from Carnegie Hall (Cafe Europa) on Monday. When I asked how much their gelato was, I found out it was an eye-popping 5.15 (?).
No thanks.
Nov 2nd, 2005, 10:53 AM
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My Husband and I are planning a trip to Italy next September or October. It will be our first time visiting italy. I would love to see the Amalfi Coast and posibbly some of the other cities. But I really want to enjoy each place I visit. Do you think going to all 4 cities was a bit much. If so what would you recommend!
Nov 2nd, 2005, 11:46 AM
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yk:
So the music charge was specified on the menu? My husband and I were shopping and stopped by his Parent's table in time to see the bill, so I didn't see it. I agree though, the music & atmosphere is wonderful. Just look at it as a cover charge.
eSynergy:
Here's the link to the outlets. It's sort of hard to find, the Prada outlet doesn't even have a sign outside! But it'll be fun if you like shopping...
http://www.outlet-firenze.com/
nrPatrick:
I would not recommend 4 Cities in 8 days. We did it for the Parents (so they can see as much as possible). September will be a nice time to be in the Amalfi coast. This is what I would do...
- Pompeii for one day.
- Capri/Sorrento one day.
- Amalfi/Ravello one day.
-Positano one day.
-spend the rest in Rome or Tuscany area.
I'd go back to Positano in a heart beat
So the music charge was specified on the menu? My husband and I were shopping and stopped by his Parent's table in time to see the bill, so I didn't see it. I agree though, the music & atmosphere is wonderful. Just look at it as a cover charge.
eSynergy:
Here's the link to the outlets. It's sort of hard to find, the Prada outlet doesn't even have a sign outside! But it'll be fun if you like shopping...
http://www.outlet-firenze.com/
nrPatrick:
I would not recommend 4 Cities in 8 days. We did it for the Parents (so they can see as much as possible). September will be a nice time to be in the Amalfi coast. This is what I would do...
- Pompeii for one day.
- Capri/Sorrento one day.
- Amalfi/Ravello one day.
-Positano one day.
-spend the rest in Rome or Tuscany area.
I'd go back to Positano in a heart beat
Nov 2nd, 2005, 11:52 AM
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sammyc-
When we sat down at the table (NOT Florian, and NOT Quadri, but the other one), our waiter handed us the menus. He actually had the menus opened to the first page where the music charge was listed in black and white.
Anyway, we felt it was worth it.
When we sat down at the table (NOT Florian, and NOT Quadri, but the other one), our waiter handed us the menus. He actually had the menus opened to the first page where the music charge was listed in black and white.
Anyway, we felt it was worth it.
Nov 4th, 2005, 03:17 PM
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Oh, I forgot to mention. The BEST gelato I had (and I had it w/ every meal) was from Giolitti's in Rome (Via Offici del Vicaro 40). It's right by the Parlement building, Piazza de Colonna. Their pistacio gelato is to die for!
Nov 4th, 2005, 08:36 PM
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Thanks for all the great tips. I will be meeting my husband in Rome on Nov. 18th. We will spend 10 days together. 3 days in Rome and then to Sorrento. I can't wait to try the gelato! I will let you know what I think when I return on Nov. 27th.
Nov 8th, 2005, 05:19 AM
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"Transfers-
*we used Airport connection to transfer us from FCO to our hotel (www.airportconnection.it). The driver was about 20 min late but the last time they waited 2 hrs for us(late flight). Good rates."
What rate did you pay?
Monica
*we used Airport connection to transfer us from FCO to our hotel (www.airportconnection.it). The driver was about 20 min late but the last time they waited 2 hrs for us(late flight). Good rates."
What rate did you pay?
Monica
Nov 9th, 2005, 11:48 AM
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Monica,
I think we paid 50-55E for a van (5 passengers). Definetly cheaper than a taxi. The first time in Rome we made a mistake of taking a taxi. Well, the guy took us on the scenic route and the final charge was $80E!
If you get a car (mercedes) it's cheaper... maybe around $40-45 E.
I think we paid 50-55E for a van (5 passengers). Definetly cheaper than a taxi. The first time in Rome we made a mistake of taking a taxi. Well, the guy took us on the scenic route and the final charge was $80E!
If you get a car (mercedes) it's cheaper... maybe around $40-45 E.
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