Trip Finalized- La Rioja, Barcelona, San Sebastian? & Paris
#1
Original Poster
Joined: Sep 2009
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Trip Finalized- La Rioja, Barcelona, San Sebastian? & Paris
Hi All,
My boyfriend and I just finalized a very last minute trip to Spain & Paris on December 16th. Here is my idea for the itinerary:
Dec. 17- Arrive Bilbao, spend Dec. 17 in Bilbao. Good first night restaurant, Tapas? Or hotel to stay in Bilbao? We will need to go back to the airport on the 18th to pick up our rental car. What is the best way to get from the airport to downtown?
Dec. 18- Go to San Sebastian or drive to Rioja? We love food and read that there is more michelin stars per capita in San Sebastian than any other city in the World. With that said we also don't want to spend $600 on a meal. Is it worth it to drive to San Sebastian for one night to sample the cuisine?
Dec. 19-22 or 23- La Rioja Region Spain. During this time we want to visit great wineries, eat great food and stay at a great Parador. We are willing to stray out of our way to go to a great Parador, thinking 15th century Castle, etc. Any advice on which route to take, where to stay, eat and taste will be great.
Dec. 22 or 23-27- Barcelona. How many days do we need in Barcelona? We will be there during Christmas- does the city shut down? What is the best way to get from the airport to town? Is Las Ramblas the best place to stay?
Any advice on small towns to visit along the drive would be great. We also love cheese- any great cheese factories we should stop at?
Dec. 27-30- Paris. We have both been to Paris before and want a major focus on food and wine in the trip. Are there any good day trips outside of Paris to a winery or cheese factory? What area of the city should we stay in if we are most interested in food and wine? Also, any good tips on off the beaten path food and wine bars would be wonderful.
Thank you very much for the help! I should also manage that I speak Spanish- so it should make things more accessible!
My boyfriend and I just finalized a very last minute trip to Spain & Paris on December 16th. Here is my idea for the itinerary:
Dec. 17- Arrive Bilbao, spend Dec. 17 in Bilbao. Good first night restaurant, Tapas? Or hotel to stay in Bilbao? We will need to go back to the airport on the 18th to pick up our rental car. What is the best way to get from the airport to downtown?
Dec. 18- Go to San Sebastian or drive to Rioja? We love food and read that there is more michelin stars per capita in San Sebastian than any other city in the World. With that said we also don't want to spend $600 on a meal. Is it worth it to drive to San Sebastian for one night to sample the cuisine?
Dec. 19-22 or 23- La Rioja Region Spain. During this time we want to visit great wineries, eat great food and stay at a great Parador. We are willing to stray out of our way to go to a great Parador, thinking 15th century Castle, etc. Any advice on which route to take, where to stay, eat and taste will be great.
Dec. 22 or 23-27- Barcelona. How many days do we need in Barcelona? We will be there during Christmas- does the city shut down? What is the best way to get from the airport to town? Is Las Ramblas the best place to stay?
Any advice on small towns to visit along the drive would be great. We also love cheese- any great cheese factories we should stop at?
Dec. 27-30- Paris. We have both been to Paris before and want a major focus on food and wine in the trip. Are there any good day trips outside of Paris to a winery or cheese factory? What area of the city should we stay in if we are most interested in food and wine? Also, any good tips on off the beaten path food and wine bars would be wonderful.
Thank you very much for the help! I should also manage that I speak Spanish- so it should make things more accessible!
#3
Joined: Mar 2003
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You'll need to check to see what bodegas will be open in the Rioja before making any plans, as you will need reservations before you can visit and a lot of the wineries are closed to visitors during the holiday season.
The only Paradors in the Rioja are the 4-star Calahorra (not a castle) and 4-star Sto. Domingo de la Calzada (a former pilgrim's hospital). The only castle in the area is the 15th Century castle and palace, the 3-star Parador de Olite (Navarra), which is nice.
I recommend you read Maribel's Guide to the Rioja (www.maribelsguides.com) for a little more information.
The only Paradors in the Rioja are the 4-star Calahorra (not a castle) and 4-star Sto. Domingo de la Calzada (a former pilgrim's hospital). The only castle in the area is the 15th Century castle and palace, the 3-star Parador de Olite (Navarra), which is nice.
I recommend you read Maribel's Guide to the Rioja (www.maribelsguides.com) for a little more information.
#4

Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 10,337
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I agree with Egbert. When you arrive, skip the night in Bilbao and head to San Sebastian for 3 nights. Then Rioja, if the wineries are open. I would then either skip Barcelona or Paris. Slow down and enjoy more of the Basque areas of Spain and France. This way, you could then include Bilbao and spend less time in the car.
#5
Joined: Jan 2003
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I think you're really covering alot of ground (Basque Country, Rioja, Barcelona & Paris) in 2 weeks during the holidays. I'd cut at least one of these 4 areas so you actually can enjoy.
If you have not seen Maribel's guides they are excellent. You'll find all you need on hotels & dining for all of the areas of your trip except Paris.
www.maribelsguides.com
Regarding Bilbao - you can get from town to the airport (and vice-versa) using a bus. It goes from the Bilbao airport to Termibus station (the main bus station) with a couple of stops in the center along the way.
http://www.aena.es/csee/Satellite?Si...Language=EN_GB
1 night for San Sebastian seems a shame. But I also love the Rioja. Personally I'd drop either Barcelona or Paris in order to spend more time in the Basque country & La Rioja....but I am also biased.
You can definately eat well in San Sebastian with very reasonable prices (Maribel's guides are full of recommendations).
Regarding La Rioja - the paradors in this area are not in cities I'd want to use as a base. However, there are numerous charming places (some historical) in villages that are very atmospheric. My biggest concern about La Rioja is you will definately need reservations to visit the bodegas. Hoopefully they will not be closed for the holiday period. I'd start contacting the bodegas ASAP to ensure this part of the trip is even feasible. If no bodegas are open would you still want to visit?
I'd budget at least 4 days for Barcelona and ideally a couple more for daytrips (Girona, Montserrat, Tarragona, etc...).
If you have not seen Maribel's guides they are excellent. You'll find all you need on hotels & dining for all of the areas of your trip except Paris.
www.maribelsguides.com
Regarding Bilbao - you can get from town to the airport (and vice-versa) using a bus. It goes from the Bilbao airport to Termibus station (the main bus station) with a couple of stops in the center along the way.
http://www.aena.es/csee/Satellite?Si...Language=EN_GB
1 night for San Sebastian seems a shame. But I also love the Rioja. Personally I'd drop either Barcelona or Paris in order to spend more time in the Basque country & La Rioja....but I am also biased.
You can definately eat well in San Sebastian with very reasonable prices (Maribel's guides are full of recommendations).
Regarding La Rioja - the paradors in this area are not in cities I'd want to use as a base. However, there are numerous charming places (some historical) in villages that are very atmospheric. My biggest concern about La Rioja is you will definately need reservations to visit the bodegas. Hoopefully they will not be closed for the holiday period. I'd start contacting the bodegas ASAP to ensure this part of the trip is even feasible. If no bodegas are open would you still want to visit?
I'd budget at least 4 days for Barcelona and ideally a couple more for daytrips (Girona, Montserrat, Tarragona, etc...).
#6
Joined: Feb 2009
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In San Sebastián I would recommend to go for the world famous pintxos (basque tapas) in the Parte Vieja/Old town. Could be just as much a gastronomical experience and much cheaper than going to the Michelin restaurants. The pintxos would be some 2-3€, just remember to ask for the freshly prepared and warm house specialities.
For gourmet pintxos, I can warmly recommend Goiz-Argi, Zeruko, Cuchara de San Telmo, A Fuego Negro and Astelehena. La Cepa is my favourite among the more traditional places. All in the small Parte vieja. But you can't do much wrong in San Sebastián. Any bar that serves less than excellent food would be out of business in two weeks.
About going for pintxos in San Sebastián, suggested routes etc: http://www.todopintxos.com
Among the "normal" restaurants, Urola has been my favourite since the late 80's. Traditional with an inventive touch. Here you could have an excellent five course meal with wine included for some 45-50€:
http://www.restauranteurola.com/english/index.html
For gourmet pintxos, I can warmly recommend Goiz-Argi, Zeruko, Cuchara de San Telmo, A Fuego Negro and Astelehena. La Cepa is my favourite among the more traditional places. All in the small Parte vieja. But you can't do much wrong in San Sebastián. Any bar that serves less than excellent food would be out of business in two weeks.
About going for pintxos in San Sebastián, suggested routes etc: http://www.todopintxos.com
Among the "normal" restaurants, Urola has been my favourite since the late 80's. Traditional with an inventive touch. Here you could have an excellent five course meal with wine included for some 45-50€:
http://www.restauranteurola.com/english/index.html
#7
Joined: Nov 2010
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Pintxos (Basque for tapas) bars in San Sebastian. Recs for trying a bit of everything:
'Bar Bergara' at General Artetxe 8. Simply a must --though the rather dry staff--. My rec: txalupa (puff pastry topped with mushroom, king prawn, spring onion and cream; all covered with cheese au gratin).
'Txepetxa' at Pescaderia 5. The King of the Anchovies. My rec: anchoas con crema de centollo (anchovies with a cream of spider crab).
'La Cuchara de San Telmo' at 31 de Agosto 28, rear house. A cutting edge pintxos venue. My rec: foie con mermelada de manzana (foie with apple jelly).
'Goiz-Argi' at Fermin Calbetón 4. Find the narrow entrance and then fight for room at the back. My rec: brocheta de gambas (shrimp kabab).
'A Fuego Negro' at 31 de Agosto 31. The fashionable bar of the moment. My rec: Mackobe (pintxo-burger of tender Wagyu beef).
'El Lagar' at Zabaleta 55, fashion wine bar. Rec. Kubo de morcilla con berza (Basque blood sausage with cabbage sauce and topped with soft Basque chili).
'Bodega Donostiarra' at Peña y Goñi 13. Traditional style for tasting "the vintage atmosphere". My rec: mini de atún, anchoa y guindilla. (snack of tuna, anchovie and soft chili).
'Tamboril' at Pescaderia 2. Another colorful display of pintxos on the counter. My rec: pimiento relleno de bacalao (red pepper stuffed with codfish).
'Ramuntxo Berri' at Peña y Goñi 10. One of the newest venues. Rec: foie con manzana (grilled foie with apple compote).
'La Mejillonera' at Puerto 15. Popular bar. My rec: patatas bravas (fried potatoes with spicy tomato sauce) and calamares (squid).
'Casa Senra' at San Francisco 32. Typical "mesón". My rec: croquettes and txipiron a la plancha (grilled baby squid).
'Bar Bergara' at General Artetxe 8. Simply a must --though the rather dry staff--. My rec: txalupa (puff pastry topped with mushroom, king prawn, spring onion and cream; all covered with cheese au gratin).
'Txepetxa' at Pescaderia 5. The King of the Anchovies. My rec: anchoas con crema de centollo (anchovies with a cream of spider crab).
'La Cuchara de San Telmo' at 31 de Agosto 28, rear house. A cutting edge pintxos venue. My rec: foie con mermelada de manzana (foie with apple jelly).
'Goiz-Argi' at Fermin Calbetón 4. Find the narrow entrance and then fight for room at the back. My rec: brocheta de gambas (shrimp kabab).
'A Fuego Negro' at 31 de Agosto 31. The fashionable bar of the moment. My rec: Mackobe (pintxo-burger of tender Wagyu beef).
'El Lagar' at Zabaleta 55, fashion wine bar. Rec. Kubo de morcilla con berza (Basque blood sausage with cabbage sauce and topped with soft Basque chili).
'Bodega Donostiarra' at Peña y Goñi 13. Traditional style for tasting "the vintage atmosphere". My rec: mini de atún, anchoa y guindilla. (snack of tuna, anchovie and soft chili).
'Tamboril' at Pescaderia 2. Another colorful display of pintxos on the counter. My rec: pimiento relleno de bacalao (red pepper stuffed with codfish).
'Ramuntxo Berri' at Peña y Goñi 10. One of the newest venues. Rec: foie con manzana (grilled foie with apple compote).
'La Mejillonera' at Puerto 15. Popular bar. My rec: patatas bravas (fried potatoes with spicy tomato sauce) and calamares (squid).
'Casa Senra' at San Francisco 32. Typical "mesón". My rec: croquettes and txipiron a la plancha (grilled baby squid).
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#8

Joined: Nov 2004
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you may want to take a look at my blog on the Basque Country, www.blogseitb.us/basquetourism, from a local point of view.
#9
Joined: Oct 2006
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Yes all Spanish locations shut down for Christmas.
That means public buildings and most restaurants and bars. So ensure you have a good reservation for your meal on the 25th Dec. Most shops, bars restaurants and public buildings start to close around midday on the 24th. In Cataluña
They have a second public holiday on the 26th Dec too. But this year that day falls on a Sunday so maybe they take the Monday off in compensation. Someone will confirm that no doubt.
The nearest wine region to Paris is Champagne.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/French_wine
You have not said but I assume you are taking public transport between BCN and Paris.
That means public buildings and most restaurants and bars. So ensure you have a good reservation for your meal on the 25th Dec. Most shops, bars restaurants and public buildings start to close around midday on the 24th. In Cataluña
They have a second public holiday on the 26th Dec too. But this year that day falls on a Sunday so maybe they take the Monday off in compensation. Someone will confirm that no doubt.
The nearest wine region to Paris is Champagne.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/French_wine
You have not said but I assume you are taking public transport between BCN and Paris.
#10
Original Poster
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 26
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Hi, wow, such great information!
We have decided to change the trip a little:
Arrive Bilbao Dec. 17- go to San Sebastian
Dec. 17-19 San Sebastian
Dec. 19-21 La Rioja
Dec. 22 Parador- perhaps Parador Caradona (I want to stay in at least one Parador as my boyfriend has never been to Spain before and I really love them)
Dec. 23-27- Barcelona. Thanks for the advice on the holiday closure- we will plan on visiting as many sites as possible on the 24th. I expect we will arrive in the late afternoon on the 23rd.
Dec .27-30- Paris. What is a great hotel to stay at near the Eifel Tower- something good and modern but not too touristy or over the top?
Also- any good recommendations for private tour guides in La Rioja or in Champagne? We can take the train from Paris to Reims by ourselves and then meet up with a tour guide.
Also- any good private car or super shuttle type transportation from Bilbao airport to San Sebastian? I think we will stay at Hotel Maria Cristina. It looks nice and central.
We have decided to change the trip a little:
Arrive Bilbao Dec. 17- go to San Sebastian
Dec. 17-19 San Sebastian
Dec. 19-21 La Rioja
Dec. 22 Parador- perhaps Parador Caradona (I want to stay in at least one Parador as my boyfriend has never been to Spain before and I really love them)
Dec. 23-27- Barcelona. Thanks for the advice on the holiday closure- we will plan on visiting as many sites as possible on the 24th. I expect we will arrive in the late afternoon on the 23rd.
Dec .27-30- Paris. What is a great hotel to stay at near the Eifel Tower- something good and modern but not too touristy or over the top?
Also- any good recommendations for private tour guides in La Rioja or in Champagne? We can take the train from Paris to Reims by ourselves and then meet up with a tour guide.
Also- any good private car or super shuttle type transportation from Bilbao airport to San Sebastian? I think we will stay at Hotel Maria Cristina. It looks nice and central.
#11
Joined: Jan 2003
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There's a pesa bus that goes directly from the Bilbao airport to San Sebastian. It runs hourly and takes just an hour and 15 minutes.
http://www.pesa.net/pesa/horariosBD/ctrl_horarios.php
It's too bad you won't have time to visit Bilbao - it's also a beautiful city but very different from San Sebastian. If you're really set on staying in a Parador another option would be Olite. It's set in the heart of the old town and is a former Palace of the Kings of Navarre. There are also some wineries you could visit in town (if they are open on Dec 22).
http://www.pesa.net/pesa/horariosBD/ctrl_horarios.php
It's too bad you won't have time to visit Bilbao - it's also a beautiful city but very different from San Sebastian. If you're really set on staying in a Parador another option would be Olite. It's set in the heart of the old town and is a former Palace of the Kings of Navarre. There are also some wineries you could visit in town (if they are open on Dec 22).
#12

Joined: Feb 2003
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Aren't you flying from Bilbao to Barcelona? The Cardona parador is some distance from Barcelona... it probably would be better to get your parador fix closer to the Rioja. There is one more parador in addition to the ones Robert mentions above in the Rioja - the Santo Domingo Bernardo de Fresneda which is right down the street from Santo Domingo de la Calzada (why they have two so close together, is a mystery to me.)
http://www.paradores.es/en/tratarFic...do?parador=113
But if you are really set on a castle go to Olite!
http://www.paradores.es/en/tratarFic...do?parador=113
But if you are really set on a castle go to Olite!
#14
Joined: Jan 2003
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Yes - you can buy the bus ticket at the Bilbao airport when you get on the bus. The pesa bus goes direct from the airport in Bilbao to the bus "station" in San Sebastian. There are no additional stops in San Sebastian. The bus station in San Sebastian is basically just a square with some covered waiting areas versus an actual building housing the different bus companies. It's a good 20 minute walk to the Old Town so you may need to take a taxi to your hotel unless you are packing very light.
#15
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Joined: Sep 2009
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I am hoping someone can help me figure out where to stay in San Sebastian... I want something central and nice, but do not want to pay $200 per night for Hotel Maria Christina. The other hotel I am considering is Astoria, but it looks like it is quite a walk from Old Town. Is there something nice and comfortable in Old Town for about $150 per night?
Thank you!
Thank you!
#16
Joined: Mar 2003
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Santo Domingo Bernardo de Fresneda, the former Convent of San Francisco, is also training facility for new Parador staff. It's nice, not bad, but a little more basic since it is only a 3-star, a former pilgrims hostel, but can be accessed from outside. No need to find your way into the city.
#17
Joined: Feb 2009
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My parents were very happy staying at Pensión Alemana in San Sebastián a couple of years ago. 50 meters from the La Concha beach/promenade and a five minutes walk to the Old Town. Much more of a hotel than a "pension" and great value for some 80-100€ for a double.
Living in the Parte vieja/Old town can be quite noisy, but Hotel Parma on its outskirts is a good option. About 80€:
http://www.booking.com/hotel/es/parma.en.html
Living in the Parte vieja/Old town can be quite noisy, but Hotel Parma on its outskirts is a good option. About 80€:
http://www.booking.com/hotel/es/parma.en.html
#18
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 18,251
Likes: 22
The parador in Hondarribia , near San Sebastian, is castle like and would give you a chance to see a smaller Basque city.
There are many good restraurants and tapas within walking distance and the parador has it's own parking, a plus.
There are many good restraurants and tapas within walking distance and the parador has it's own parking, a plus.
#19
Joined: Mar 2003
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The Astoria7, which is quite nice, is only a twenty-minute walk from La Concha Beach and the Parte Vieja. The walk helps to work up an appetite, but the city buses run every few minutes.
I would stay at the Maria Cristina for $200/night. That's quite a bargain for a top Starwood luxury property.
The Parador in Hondarribia is interesting, but a bit overpriced regardless of the season. You pay for parking unless you are an Amigo.
I would stay at the Maria Cristina for $200/night. That's quite a bargain for a top Starwood luxury property.
The Parador in Hondarribia is interesting, but a bit overpriced regardless of the season. You pay for parking unless you are an Amigo.

