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Old Jan 26th, 2004, 03:30 AM
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LJ
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Trieste: any pros out there?

My husband, who is a James Joyce fan(atic) is very keen to see the place where that writer lived for so many years and wrote much of Ulysses. That is all well and good, but what else does Trieste have to offer? Any hints on hotels, restaurants? Sights to see? Day trips?
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Old Jan 26th, 2004, 04:23 AM
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My husband's family is from Trieste and we spent a few days there last April. Trieste is a beautiful place and I think you will enjoy it. They have a beautiful large square bordered by beautiful buildings, and the sea on one side. You can sit out at the cafes there and get a cafe or gelato. They are famous for their coffee and it is world renowned. They also have some very nice churches and buildings downtown.

I would definately reccomend a trip to Miramare which is a beautiful palace and gardens that juts out over the ocean.It was built by the Hapsburgs. They have a little cafe there too. The other place I would reccomend is a trip to San Giusto. It is an ancient church and fort on an old roman site complete with ruins. You take a tiny bus (the only one that will fit on the narrow streets) from the city. The view is spectacular. I believe there is another castle to visit on the coast.

We mostly ate with family so I can't really reccomend any restaurants.

We stayed at the Hotel Jolly which is downtown. It was a basic hotel, but had all the ammenities and a nice breakfast buffet each morning.

The bus system is very good in Trieste and it will take you anywhere.

I would suggest you do a search for Trieste on Google. There is a tourist site with lots of ideas. I hope you enjoy it.
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Old Jan 26th, 2004, 04:56 AM
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We stayed at a very fine hotel, Grand Hotel Duchi d'Aosta, which is one of the pretty buildings on that magnificent square mentioned above. We got a very good deal booking months ahead directly with them, and on a weekend. We also had our best meal at that hotel sitting at a table out on that square at night. I understand why that square has often been called the prettiest in Europe.

We enjoyed the town very much, partly because it is so remarkably "non-touristy". We took a tram (the oldest of its type in Europe -- a sort of cablecar) up the hill and then bussed and walked to visit Grotte Gigante, a huge cave/caverns. Don't miss San Giusto, mentioned above also. The cathedral and castello at the top of another hill is interesting as well. And you can do a trip by boat down the coast a bit to Piran, a lovely town in Slovenia.
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Old Jan 26th, 2004, 05:37 AM
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It's a fascinating, cosmopolitan city which is distinctly different from other places in Italy as it was one of the major ports of the Austro-Hungarian empire. It has a waterfront with grand Austrian-style buildings. As already mentioned, there is the veteran tram/funicular which goes up to Villa Opicina with fantastic views. There are hourly trains to Venezia, taking about two hours, so that's an easy day trip. There are buses to various places in Slovenia and Croatia, and boats along the coast which is very attractive.
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Old Jan 26th, 2004, 06:23 AM
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I'd have to agree with the other posters. Trieste is a beautiful, relaxing town. You might think about a day or overnight trip to Venice, or head east into Slovenia for a trip to Lubjija (sp?). Can't really recommend any restaurants, although we liked a restaurant right by the canal for a non-fancy dinner. I think it was called barotolo. Make sure your husband goes to the trieste joyce site and emails them--I was just there and they should have a Joyce Center open this year. We met with the man putting it together, and it should be interesting.
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Old Jan 26th, 2004, 06:37 AM
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LJ: Trieste and environs are a wonderful area to visit. The City itself is beautiful and much restoration of medieval splendor has been completed or is in process. The trip up the hill to the cathedral and costello is very worthwhile if only for the views. We walked up and down by different routes taking in the interesting architecture.
Some good day trips have been mentioned, Grotte Gigante, San Guisto and Mirimare Palace.
Also, be sure to visit Muggia, a very old fishing village. It's about seven miles south of Trieste. Really charming and the walk up to the cathedral uncovers some really interesting architecture. From this vantage point, the views of the Gulf of Trieste and Trieste itself are spectacular.
In Trieste, you are not far from Aguillea where the Roman ruins are very interesting, lots of mosaics. It was the second largest city in the Roman Empire and completely leveled by the Huns. It was never rebuilt. But, the main reason for going are the absolutely magnificent mosaics that cover the floor of the basilica. The original basilica was destroyed by the Huns, but the mosaics are original and have been restored. They rival those at Rimini.
We stayed at the Hotel Riviera outside of Trieste (about three miles) and on the water's edge. The views of the Gulf of Trieste from our room and balacony were fantastic. The hotel is very near the Miramar Palace; pretty grounds and nicely decorated rooms.
We ate at a great restaurant, Al Bagatto. Really fine seafood dishes. Very popular, so, if you want to go, make reservations well in advance. You'll enjoy this area. Have a great trip.
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Old Jan 26th, 2004, 08:12 AM
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You've gotten great advice here, and I have nothing to add other than I loved Treiste when I stayed two nights on my way to Croatia. Beautiful harbor city with very few tourists. Also, it seemed to be a great place for shopping.
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Old Jan 26th, 2004, 08:56 AM
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After posting this morning, I've been thinking about Trieste. I think one of its charms is that unlike most "non famous" cities, it is not industrial, dirty, and lacking in beauty. In fact it seemed like an amazingly upscale city in the quality of its shops, restaurants, hotels, and residences for a city that has so little tourism or universal draw.
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Old Jan 26th, 2004, 09:00 AM
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Before you go, read "Trieste and the Meaning of Nowhere," by Jan Morris. Haunting book!
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Old Jan 26th, 2004, 09:15 AM
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You know Patrick, I think it has no North American tourism! I think there are lots of Austrians and Germans who have recognized the charms of Trieste... like Croatia and Slovenia. It's only a matter of time.
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Old Jan 26th, 2004, 11:14 AM
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Oooops! In my post above, that should have been Aquileia, the Roman ruins and mosaics I described.
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Old Jan 27th, 2004, 04:09 AM
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Thank you all so much..you came through, as usual. Thanks in particular to Zeppo2 for the info re: the Joyce Centre (we will be following up for sure) and to Sera for the tip about the essay by Jan Morris. I gave the newly published collected works of Morris to my daughter for Christmas and it was mighty hard to give that book away!

I will post any additions to this wealth of knowledge on our return.
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Old Jan 29th, 2004, 03:40 PM
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Then you have to visit also Pula in Croatia, which is on Istrain peninsula close to Trieste, where James Joyce also lived for some time as English language teacher in the Berlitz School of foreign languages from November 1904 to April 1905.

Take a look at this site, it has some good info and also a photo of James Joyce?s statue in front of the house where he used to live:
http://www.virtualtourist.com/m/3001d/5e1bd/a/

He went often to Brijuni archipelago, which is a National Park just off Pula.
On the island of Mali Brijun Ulysses Theatre was founded in 2001.
http://www.ulysses.hr - unfortunately English version is under construction
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Old Jan 30th, 2004, 07:42 AM
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Thnak you, Jonas, my husband will be keen to check out further afield, too!
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Old Feb 19th, 2004, 01:44 PM
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I'd second Pula, but only if you have a car. The bus down and back can make for a very long day--unless you're planning to stay.
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Old Jan 30th, 2007, 05:25 AM
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we have found recently an hotel de charme, in the old historic center of Trieste, its called Albero Nascosto, 3 stars, its fantastic, friendly and a double with Breakfast goes for around 115e
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Old Jan 30th, 2007, 07:04 AM
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A really nice day trip, or overnight for that matter is to Piran, Slovenia, just across the Adriatic. It can be reached by road, bus tour, or sea. Piran is a beautiful medieval town well worth a visit. I was surprised in walking into the town square to see what I first thought was the requisite statue of a general holding a sword, but it was a statue of the composer - violinist Giuseppe Tartini. I like the thought of a main town square being named for and honoring a musician or artist.
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Old Mar 25th, 2007, 11:25 AM
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Love reading this thread: Trieste has long been on my list of intriguing destinations and looks more and more like a relaxing home base for touring the whole area - including Venice, perhaps.

Just checked out the website of the recommended Albero Nascosto and it looks great. A nice note: they offer a good rate for singles, good to know for those who might sometimes travel with a person who is not their mate.
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