Trastevere Food

Old May 16th, 2017, 03:12 AM
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Trastevere Food

Since I am staying in Trastevere while I am in Rome and read that it's the nightlife and eating neighborhood I am hoping for people's suggestions of favorite restaurants in the area. I am trying not to go too expensive but I do like to drink nice wine or beer with food and I am looking for places that many locals eat or that specialize in regional dishes. I also like to cook and am renting an apartment so places that have things I can take home and warm up or delis with special things I can prepare are nice too and also suggestions of good nightlife in the area. Thank you everyone!
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Old May 16th, 2017, 07:49 AM
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Trastevere sprawls a bit, so it helps to know more exactly where you'll be staying in Trastevere. Also, some parts of it are quite close to Testaccio, or the Jewish quarter, which increases your options -- but again, not if you are at the other end of Trastevere.
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Old May 16th, 2017, 04:51 PM
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Try Da Teo for cacio e pepe.
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Old May 16th, 2017, 06:40 PM
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http://www.latavernacciaroma.com/ Recommended by Katie Parla - a food journalist who knows her stuff!
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Old May 16th, 2017, 10:49 PM
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http://www.trattoriadegliamici.org/

This place is near the Basilica and trains and employs people with special needs. We found the food to be very good, the typical Roman/Italian dishes like they should taste. And the price was definetely not as in many tourist traps.

Most waitstaff is not bi-lingual, there is an English language menu (while the website is in Italian only for whatever reason).
And there is other staff totally fluent in English readily available to translate if necessary.

We got along very well with our little bit of restaurant-Italian as our waiter was super attentive and friendly and always made sure he understood 100pct what we were asking for. You felt extremely well cared about.
Aside from the good food and great overall experience it also made us reconsider our image of being "disabled".
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Old May 18th, 2017, 08:01 PM
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I haven't been to where Cowboy 1968 suggested but it sounds amazing! I have a disabled daughter and would love to take her there; I think it would add some new life to her spirit. She hates no longer being able to work the way she used to!

But yes, which part are you staying in? I love I Suppli-hands down the best suppli in Rome and they also have other simple snack dishes, some pizza by the slice etc. They're very filling so you can snack there and then take some things home to warm up later if you're in an apartment. Staying in Trastevere without eating there should be a criminal offense.

Ai Marmi at Viale Trastevere 53 is one of the best neighborhood places for pizza and definitely a place to get that real local vibe. Simple, not fancy at all, more cafeteria style, not the place to go if you need too much attention and waitstaff fawning all over you and I like that about it. What energy they don't spend on generic customer-service routines they put into their amazing food which again is just the way I like it. They're open pretty late too and that's a bonus plus the price is reasonable.

Da Augusto is a place after my own heart and truly traditional-in fact it's almost exactly the way my own restaurant was run. Meal times are meal times, you line up, first come first chance at a seat, no reservations, cash only, everyone eats family style together at tables and the prices are very reasonable. Whatever is on today's menu is what you get, so only a few items but each one is better than the next and it's almost the feeling you get eating at someone's house. Not your typical Trastevere tourist trap. The only thing it lacks is truly good wine, but at least the house wine is cheap if barely drinkable. It doesn't matter, the food more than makes up for it!

Ivo a Trastevere is a bit less of that "authentic" feel since they have menus in more than just Italian (or menus period-whether Da Augusto uses a menu or not depends on the day, staff mood etc) but the food is still good and it's full of locals as well as international period (mix of tourists and expat residents). It doesn't matter, they have an excellent selection of main courses, 1st, pizza, etc. It's crowded all the time and often you give them your name and they call you when there's a table. Again, good pricing and they have more of a wine/beer/drink list so you can get a little more quality and variety or just stick to the house wine if you're on a budget. It's on the same street as Suppli too, just off Viale Trastevere so it's easy to find.

If you want to cook at home and want to use things besides just grocery store ingredients, the produce in the mornings at the Campo de' Fiori market is amazing and depending on what part of Trastevere you're in you can walk right over Ponte Sisto or just take the #8 tram. There's also the Mercato Trionfale with everything you could need near the Vatican area, which is easy to get to from Trastevere either by bus or on foot (again depending where you are and how much you like walking-at least the walk promises scenery!)

Wherever you are look at little neighborhood convenience stores, Alimentari because a lot of them do special little things like prepare their own deli food, sauces, etc, and these can be a nice touch for your home cooked meal(some of the best Pesto I've ever had is made by a family at an Alimentari in a residential neighborhood near nothing touristy).

A fun thing to do in Trastevere is eat your way through aperitivo hour around Piazza Trilussa and the tiny surrounding streets. Most bars have this just before dinner and for 1-2 euros more than the price of your cocktail (which are often happy hour prices) you can snack on their finger food buffets of varying quality. A lot of places have really nice little snacks though, and again, cheap drinks, and often truly fantastic cocktails. Spend at least 1 night doing that.

That should keep you full for awhile but how long are you staying?
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Old May 19th, 2017, 06:44 PM
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I am closer to Santa Maria in Trastevere but from the map it looks like I can also walk to the tram #8 and the river, the historic center, etc. I already planned to walk a lot and don't mind it and taking trams and buses doesn't bother me. If Testaccio is easy to get to from the tram or the bus or a very recommended area to eat I am happy for suggestions there too. Trattoria Degli Amici looks like a very nice suggestion and different from what I see everywhere so I feel like I have to try it! Right now I have 1 week booked in Rome but if availability or budget or the universe allows who knows? Or maybe after I will see another city? The suggestions of where to buy food to cook are helpful too and I like the idea of these Alimentari. Are there also regular grocery stores on this side of Trastevere or are those mostly in the center? Even though the Trionfale market does not look near me it looks like a good place to go and Campo de' Fiori is something everyone tells me I can't miss. I like the idea of this family style restaurant with reviews online about lines out the door, it sounds like exactly what I am looking for! I have never tried a suppli but I guess now I have to do that too! Thank you again everyone for all of your helpful information and I will probably try all of these places.
And I always think of a last question after reading suggestions it seems so is Rome a nice place for seafood restaurants or is that better to do closer to the actual coast? I love seafood so if anyone has suggestions of very good places I am happy to hear those too.
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Old May 19th, 2017, 07:41 PM
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Elizabeth Minchilli writes a food blog about Rome, and she is a seafood afficiando (her husband is from Bari). You need to be a bit careful about where you eat seafood in Rome's restaurants, and her blog is probably the very best guide to that. (You can probably also e-mail her with questions about the reliability of seafood markets in Trastevere & Campo de' Fiori).

From now until the end of summer, I think it pays to be careful about buying from reputable vendors or restauranteurs. Be aware that everywhere in Italy, fresh seafood is pricey! That goes double if you don't pay attention to what's imported or not in season. One way to familiarize yourself with what's in season is to go to the local markets and look at what's on offer. You can ask there, too, for recommendations about where to eat. The fish vendors know who buys their best stuff.
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Old May 19th, 2017, 11:18 PM
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The closest market to you will be at san cosimato, no need to go to trionfale for shopping. And campo dei fiori is not a good place to buy food anymore, it is a colorful tourist attraction (and trap) is what it is. There are many alimentari and super markets in trastevere, you do not have to cross the river for these. Usually they are hidden away in courtyards or cellars of city blocks with small and insignificant looking entrances. Your landlord will be able to tell you the closest to your apartment. As a start, there is a huge conad under the coin store on the corner of viale trastevere/san francesco ripa.
I come from a fish culture and have a hard time finding good fish in rome, be it at fishmongers or at restaurants. There is no good fish mongers in trastevere or the center, the two i go to are at monteverde and in the trionfale market (one reason to go there!). If you are looking for a place to eat great fish (and pay accordingly), il san lorenzo on via dei chiavari is the best in the center. My other suggestions would be too far away to hunt after during a one week stay.
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Old May 20th, 2017, 07:26 AM
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Although I agree with the assessment that Campo de'Fiori is a disappointing food market there are several brick-and-mortar shops in the immediate vicinity that sell superior items (in particular I am thinking of Beppe e i suoi formaggi for cheese, or some of the bakeries in the Jewish quarter, and there are others that might be worth crossing the river for a unique Roman treat. You can find pointers on the internet.
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Old May 20th, 2017, 07:59 AM
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Purchase these food apps for Rome: "Katie Parla's Rome" and Elizabeth Minichelli's "EAT ROME". They are very helpful and map the restaurants too. Worth the small price.
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Old May 25th, 2017, 08:05 PM
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Yet more thanks for your warnings about the seafood and market pointers and thank you for letting me know where the neighborhood grocery store is. If Trionfale is the place to get fish I must at least give it a look and Campo sounds worth it for the stores in the area. I am definitely curious about the Jewish bakeries too since I read a lot that they're truly different.

I might be interested in a day trip to the beach and I see Ostia is very easy to get to on the train but are there other beaches that are easy to get to on trains/buses from the city and more recommendable than Ostia in your opinions? Also if anyone has seafood restaurant suggestions at any of these beaches I am always happy to hear them. I'd expect there to be better fish at the actual beach!
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