Too much?

Old Jun 13th, 2019, 10:32 AM
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Too much?

First, I want to thank the gracious and generous folks who share their experiences and advice to help others. My wife and I (both active senior citizens) are planning our first (and – who knows? – maybe only) trip to Greece, from September 4-26. I've been reading guidebooks and forum entries and can use guidance. We want to experience a lot, but not pack in so much that we’ll be spending more time traveling from place to place than appreciating where we are. We want to visit museums and archeological sites, see natural beauty, wander through old cities/towns, and have some beach time. I’m worried that our proposed itinerary is maybe packing too much in (especially if there are ferry delays or cancellations), leaving only a couple of days at most of the islands.

We're flying to Athens and then to Heraklion that day. After a day to see Knossos and the museum we'll drive west to see Chania and the western areas, staying in Crete for a total of about 6 nights, the last being back in Heraklion, and then early morning ferry to Santorini for two days. Then the plan is to ferry to Milos and spend two days there. Next we would ferry to Paros and stay in Antiparos for about two days. Then on to Naxos for 3-4 days. From there we plan to ferry to Mykonos, in order to have a day in Delos. (That would mean two nights in Mykonos.) Finally. we would ferry to Athens, spend 3 days there and return home.

Does this seem doable or should we consider dropping an island (Milos? Paros/Antiparos?)? Every place seems to have its own compelling ambience, beauty, history, uniqueness...

I'd appreciate your thoughts.
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Old Jun 13th, 2019, 12:17 PM
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Remember that it takes three nights in a place to get two full days for sightseeing. As I count it, it looks like you are calling two nights in a place two days, which it is not. If it were my trip - and it isn't - I'd want a minimum of two full days (three nights) in each place. Three full days In Athens is a minimum to see the major sites, IMO.
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Old Jun 13th, 2019, 12:56 PM
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Consider replacing an island with historic, waterfront, beautiful Napflio on the Peloponneasean Penisula, only a two hour drive from Athens. It is surrounded by major antiquities such as Epidavros, the Mycenae, Tiryns, Nemea, Corinth. Napflio and Chania,Crete are the considered the most beautiful Greek towns/small cities.

Last edited by HappyTrvlr; Jun 13th, 2019 at 12:58 PM.
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Old Jun 13th, 2019, 01:09 PM
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It's easier to think in terms of nights rather than days, two nights equals only one full day, and as Kathie wrote two days on an island requires three nights. Use a calendar or some kind of flow chart to see how your itinerary will work.

Bear in mind that the best archaeological sites and museums are on the mainland, obviously in Athens, but also Delphi and several very important sites around Nafplio in the Peloponnese. That said, apart from Milos which is mainly beaches, you have picked some of the best islands for archeological sites.

When on Antiparos try to get to the archeological site on Despotiko, an uninhabited island much like Delos. The site is in the early stages of excavation, so still relatively unknown, but would give you a good idea of how the archeologists go about their work. You can reach Despotiko from Agios Georgios at the southern end of Antiparos, asking for Captain Sargos. Were it me I would skip Milos and add the time to Paros/Antiparos.

Mykonos is obviously the best place for reaching Delos, as the boats take only about 20-30 minutes to reach the site, and you can choose how long you wish to stay there. The boats from Mykonos Old Harbour are fairly small, and get cancelled on windy days, so allow more than one day to insure you will see Delos. The first time I visited Delos I had to wait three days to get there. Excursion boats also go to Delos/Mykonos from both Paros and Naxos, but you get only 3 hours on Delos out of a 10 hour day. The excursion is 1½ hours less at sea from Paros.
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Old Jun 13th, 2019, 04:10 PM
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You've already gotten some great advice! I'll add my voice to those suggesting some time in Nafplio, particularly given your interests. I also agree that three days in Athens (BTW, I like that you put it at the end of your trip) is a minimum.

If you haven't already seen it, you might find some useful information in my trip report, and keep in mind that I travel at a decidedly hard pace.
With Gratitude for a Glorious Solo Month in Greece
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Old Jun 15th, 2019, 12:45 AM
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In general, your trip seems too rushed. As pointed out, two nights only gives you a day. If you only have a day I'd skip the island entirely as it's not enough to see much and it doesn't really justify the time you spend travelling to get there. Also factor in to your plan the time it takes to reach each island. You could check flights between the islands which would save time.

We've been to about ten of the Greek islands (love it there, I'd go back tomorrow) and Milos is the only island I really didn't like. From our experience, ferry departures can change and often do. We had a 5am departure that changed with little notice to 11am. You may have already done this, but check there is a ferry route for each sector you have planned. People tend to think it's easy to get from any island to another but sometimes it can involve going back to Athens/Piraeus.

Kay
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Old Jun 15th, 2019, 03:05 AM
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I actually don't think your itinerary is too rushed - borderline I would say. Yes you need three nights to get two FULL days in a place, but when you are taking ferries from island to island in Greece it's not quite the same as traveling from one large city to another other places. I've done three different 'island hopping' trips to Greece, so no expert, but I had a lot of two night stays and enjoyed them. My first trip I couldn't decide between 3 nights each in Santorini and either Paros or Naxos or 2 nights in all of three of them, went with all three islands and had a great time. If you go with an early morning ferry (or as early as you can get, not talking 5am or anything) you still have most of the day 'there', the ferry ride between the islands you are talking about are not that long. I usually try to stay within a 10-15 minute walk of the ferry port. September things will be a little quieter but days still pretty long.

The changes I would make: I'd skip Mykonos and do Delos from Paros so take one of the Mykonos nights and add it to Paros. The other Mykonos night and one of the Naxos nights I'd move to Crete. Then you'd have one less hotel change and I think a better distribution of time. We had 8 nights on Crete and thought that a good amount of time. Didn't spend any nights in Heraklion, visited Knossos as a day trip. That would give you 8 nights Crete, 2 each Santorini and Milos, 3 each Naxos and Paros.

I'll add though that I don't need a lot of beach time, usually an hour or so, some times (like Santorini) no beach time at all. In Santorini make sure you spend a couple hours visiting one of the inland towns, don't just do Fira and Oia.

I have trip reports for all three of my Greek trips (which cover all the places you mention) if you click my name they will come up. My photos are here: https://andiamo.zenfolio.com/f320347206
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Old Jun 18th, 2019, 10:18 AM
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Thanks, everyone for your sage advice! I've been spending the past few days poring over your information, your trip reports, and previous advice you've given and received. Traveling is so much better when one can benefit from the experiences of others.

We've decided to drop Milos and are thinking of adding a day to Paros/Antiparos and one to Mykonos. So, as it stands now we'd be arriving at Heraklion late in the day on September 4, seeing Knossos and the museum the next day, and driving to Chania on Friday the 6th. We'd base ourselves in Chania for 3 nights, and return to Heraklion for the night of 9/9, so that we can take the early ferry to Santorini on 9/10. We'd spend two nights in Santorini and take a morning ferry to Paros, to stay 3 nights in Antiparos. Then an early ferry to Naxos on the 15th, for 4 nights there. Next, an early ferry on the 19th to Mykonos. As we'd like to have a good block of time to see Delos, it seems advisable to stay in Mykonos, and given Heimdall's caution about boat cancellations it seems prudent to make it 3 nights in Mykonos, to maximize a shot at Delos. (Otherwise, I'd skip Mykonos altogether.) On the 22nd we'd take a ferry (or fly) to Athens, to have 4 nights there before our flight home on the 26th.

With the possibilities of ferry delays or cancellations, does this itinerary seem reasonable?

In order to maximize options and value, as a budget traveler in the past I have always booked accommodations in advance. With the advent of Airbnb, it seems that there are more options. We usually prefer local flavor/experiences to luxury hotels, as long as there's a convenient location, AC, a good bed, and a decent private bathroom with shower. A couple of year ago Heimdall advised, in one of kja's threads, to wait on booking a room until one arrives. ("...it's a buyer's market. Nearly all the hotels have vacancies, and hotel owners are willing to negotiate to fill a room.") Is that still the case with the current economy, and would that apply in September (and particularly on which islands)? I'm concerned about ferry problems on this route causing me to lose money prepaid for accommodations. (Should I be?)

Another question: Is it better/more economical to arrange car rentals in advance, or might that, too, be better to do when arriving? Does one need an international driver's license for renting and driving in Greece?

I'm sure I'll have more questions, and am grateful for all your sharing. I'll keep reading your past advice – hoping it's still relevant and current – and welcome any suggestions, cautions, and recommendations.
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Old Jun 18th, 2019, 10:47 AM
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Antiparos is getting busier, so I might revise my advice and recommend booking ahead, or at least phoning a few days in advance to secure a room. It helps if you have a cellphone and a Greek SIM. That said, in the last half of September you will have no problem finding a room upon arrival on Antiparos if you wish to do it that way.

A few years ago when staying at Mike’s Place on Antiparos I met a Dutchman, Hans Huisman, who has a website with recommendations of places to stay on the island. He has lots of information on other islands too, so it’s worth going to the home page to research other islands you are visiting. Here is the section for accommodation on Antiparos:
Antiparos Greece hotels, apartments, studios, holiday houses and villas
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Old Jun 18th, 2019, 11:38 AM
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Arrivals in Greece have increased dramatically during the last years and that has changed what we used to know about low and high season.
In addition to that Athens became a destination rather than a place for short overnights on the way to the islands.
As an example Greece received 24 Million tourists in 2014 a number which climbed to 33 Million in 2018.
Finding accommodation on the spot has become more difficult, as there are less available rooms- apartments etc and even the traditionally low season in Athens during July and August
has picked up due to increased arrivals.
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Old Jun 18th, 2019, 05:37 PM
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Originally Posted by jonf2
Then an early ferry to Naxos on the 15th, for 4 nights there. Next, an early ferry on the 19th to Mykonos. As we'd like to have a good block of time to see Delos, it seems advisable to stay in Mykonos, and given Heimdall's caution about boat cancellations it seems prudent to make it 3 nights in Mykonos, to maximize a shot at Delos. (Otherwise, I'd skip Mykonos altogether.)
In that case, consider skipping Mykonos and visiting Delos from Naxos. The ferry takes longer, but I'm not sure I'd worry about that with your itinerary. But perhaps I'm missing something that other experts have noted?
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Old Jun 18th, 2019, 11:15 PM
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Yes, there are Delos excursion boats from Naxos and Paros (the trip at sea is shorter from Paros). There are a few drawbacks with these excursions from Paros and Naxos, one being that they don't run every day, and if cancelled due to high winds you may have to wait a couple of days for the next one. You get only 2hrs 45min or 3 hrs on Delos with the Naxos/Paros excursion boats. The same two boats, Alexander and Naxos Star, operate from both islands, picking up the Naxos passengers first and dropping them off last.
https://polostoursparos.com/daily-cr...delos-mykonos/

The excursion boats from Mykonos old harbour leave several times each day, and you can stay as long on Delos as you like. Both times I went to Delos I took the 9 am boat, which got there an hour before the excursion boats from other islands arrive. That's what I call the "golden hour", when the site is almost deserted and you can wander around taking photos without anyone getting in the way. Also from Mykonos you can arrange a private or group tour if you wish.

I admit Mykonos isn't everyone's cup of tea, but by the middle of September it won't be as crowded as you may think. Sure it will be crowded when cruise ships are in between the old harbour and the Little Venice/windmills area, but go a little further away and it isn't. As for the "party island" reputation, that's exaggerated a bit too. The party season is mainly July and August, and nightclubs don't open until midnight or so, after I was tucked up in bed (I'm a senior citizen too). There are a few party beaches (notably Paradise Beach), but the partying doesn't start before 4 pm. I Like Agios Ioannis Beach where the Shirley Valentine film was made.
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