Three nights in Hamburg
Nov 23rd, 2005 | 10:59 PM
#2
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 2,801
Likes: 0
Mike,
while Hamburg is IMHO a city worth seeing, it does not offer too many truly historic sights as it was heavily bombed during WWII and there was a big fire in the 19th century. In addition Hamburg's inhabitants are very commercial (this city has been thriving on trade ever since its foundation) and therefore very practical. This leads to buildings being replaced once they don't serve their purpose anymore.
Still, there should be enough to do during your stay and I'll throw in a few suggestions:
<b>Historical sights:</b>
<i>City Hall:</i> City Hall is a pretty impressive structure on Rathausmarkt (U-Bahn stop) right in the center of town behind the Inner- Alster Lake. Tours are available, though I am not sure how frequently.
<i>St. Michael's church:</i> St. Michael ("Michel"
is Hamburg's landmark church. It is located not far from Landungsbruecken overlooking the city and the river. A fantastic view can be enjoyed once you have climbed the numerous steps of its spire (small fee). Train stop would be Stadthausbruecke.
<i>Krameramtsgasse:</i> This small alley is basically the only one that survived the big fire more than a hundred years ago. It consists of small buildings reflecting street life and living in the old days. It is only steps from St. Michael and a bit tricky to find. Look for an alley just to the left of a restaurant called "Krameramtsstuben" a little bit below the back side of the church.
<i>Speicherstadt:</i> This term translates to warehouse district, where in old brick buildings spices, tea, coffee and carpets are being stored, but which also is a big development area much like the Docklands in London. I recommend you visit the Kesselhaus, a building in which they display a model of the current city and of what's to come - you'll get an impression of the development in the area within the next 10 to 20 years. It is located just opposite the "Miniatur Wunderland", a model railroad museum housed in one of the warehouses (that is quite worthwhile to see BTW as their simulation of things is so realistic and as this is one of largest model railroad complexes in the world). Train stop would be Messberg. You could also take a ferry from Landungsbruecken and unboard at Sandtorkai. Ferries in the port are included in the Transport System (called HVV) daypass.
<i>Strandweg in Oevelgoenne:</i> Strandweg is a small pedestrian walkway in Oevelgoenne down by the River Elbe and lined with pretty neat old Captain's houses. It is best accessible by ferry from Landungsbruecken. Strandweg invites for a leisurely stroll along the River. If you enjoy a longer walk, you could make it to Teufelsbrueck ("Devil's Bridge", a berth down the river (approx. 45 min. to 1 hour), where you could have some coffee and cake in the restaurant right on the berth called "Engel" (Angel).
<i>Blankenese:</i> A hilly suburb down the river, this picturesque neighborhood encourages a walk through steep alleys bordering small and beautiful houses, all overlooking the River Elbe and the majestic ocean-going vessels.
<b>Other sights:</b>
<i>Tour of the port:</i> A visit to Hamburg would be incomplete IMHO without a tour of the port. Small and large vessels for tours leave from Landungsbruecken, which is a stop of S-Bahn and U-Bahn trains, too. I think it is best to board one of the small boats called "Barkassen", as these will take you on a tour through the channels of the historic Speicherstadt, too.
<i>Fischmarkt:</i> Should you be in the city on Sundays, the famous fish market is held Sundays starting at around 5 a.m. It is located down by the river, not far from Reeperbahn and does not only feature fish stalls, but in fact produce and other items of all varieties at bargain prices. Usually some Jazz Music and beer is available at Fischauktionshalle (Fish Auction Hall).
Again this is best accessed via ferry from Landungsbruecken. Stop is called appropriately "Fischmarkt".
Local food:
With its proximity to the North and Baltic Seas, Hamburg's food traditionally has a bias for Seafood. There is a signature dish called "Labskaus" that consists of potatoes and corned beef, mashed together and topped with red beets, a pickled herring and a fried egg (and I think it tastes even more horrible than it sounds), but quite a number of even tourists like it.
The other signature dish might be more likely to please your taste buds: Rote Gruetze, which consists of red berries of all sorts (except for Strawberries) that are being cooked for a short time and then served cold. Traditionally it is eaten with Milk and liquid cream only, but quite a number of restaurants cater to the non-natives who might like it with vanilla sauce.
Finally, a plaice "Finkenwerder Style", i.e. fried in bacon and served with potato salad is simple but good.
Restaurants with local food:
<i>Fischereihafen Restaurant:</i> The Fischereihafen Restaurant is a Hamburg institution. Celebrities of all sorts frequent the place, among them the management of the HSV football club. The menu is focused on seafood, with a steak available for those not so much in love with the fish. The atmosphere is sedate and not too hip. However, there is a view of the River right outside the back door. While prices are high in the evenings at around € 20.- per main course, they serve a surprisingly reasonable fixed lunch daily. The address is Grosse Elbstr. No. 143, Tel.: 040- 38 18 16.
Fischmarkt: This seafood place is not located on Fischmarkt fish market, as its name would suggest, but located a few steps down from St. Michael's church and a few steps from the port and Baumwall train stop on Ditmar- Koel- Strasse at the corner of Neustädter Neuer Weg. They don't have a view, but will present you an impressive collection of their catch of the day, which will be prepared according to your preferences in their show style kitchen. Have a glass of beer along with it, or try the dry German Riesling from Schloss Vollrads in the Rheingau region. Food is not inexpensive with a main course at around € 16.- to € 20.-, but served in a nice and relaxed ambiance with very friendly service and it's overall worth it. Tel. 040- 36 38 09
<i>Fischerhaus:</i> This yellow building is very originally Hamburg. It is located right by the port below Hafenstr. The food is seafood only (at least that's all I'd recommend there) and in general nothing to write home about. The interiors dating back to the uninspiring 1950ies isn't either. Still, the fish is fresh and their plaice Finkenwerder Style is huge and pretty good and filling and therefore this has been around for decades and for good reason. I would recommend to have lunch here, only, as the atmosphere does not exactly create the special feeling one might enjoy for dinner. Best accessed through the ferry stop "Fischmarkt" (it is then to the right on the busy street about 250 yards away).
<b>Music:</b>
<i>Hamburger Staatsoper:</i> The opera is located on Stephansplatz (U-Bahn stop) right in the center of town. Whereas it does not draw the big names in opera currently, it still plays host for performances of young aspiring singers. It is also the venue of the Hamburg ballet, which offers worldclass performances under the guidance of American John Neumeier.
<i>Lion King Musical:</i> The Lion King Musical has been playing for a couple of years in a theatre right in the middle of the port, overlooking the city center. It is best accessed through a short ferry ride from Landungsbruecken.
There are more musicals playing, but there are continuous changes. You might consult
http://www.stage-entertainment.de/
should you be interested.
For Live Jazz you could check out the Music Pub "Birdland" on Gaertnerstr.
<b>Caution</b>:
For what it is, just as any cosmopolitan city, Hamburg has some areas that are best to be avoided or which require to walk the streets with caution.
This goes especially for the neighborhoods on the Northern side of Central Station (exit Kirchenallee and tunnels leading to subway line U2). St. Georg, as this area is called, is a multicultural neighborhood that also has attracted large portions of the city's gay population and as such has become somewhat thriving. Lange Reihe Street here is a good example and offers quite a few pleasant bars and restaurants and is pretty safe. However, streets to the North and East of Lange Reihe in the direction of Steindamm should be avoided. They are still home to a lot of drug addicts (with a central drug ambulance being located in the Wuestenrot- building behind the Museum for Arts and Crafts) and cheap brothels. Beware – especially do not pass onto the area of Hansaplatz here!
Also a hub of drug dealers is the small Park called "Sternschanzenpark" to the right once you exit train stop Sternschanze. This is fairly close to the hip and alternative neighborhood of Schanzenviertel, so beware here, too.
Also be on your guard on Reeperbahn! Do not necessarily pass the street called Hamburger Berg with its sleazy bars and pubs, where a lot of criminals reside. Although there is a large presence of Police on Reeperbahn (marked and unmarked), recently there have been stabbings of rivalling gangs that are easy to get involved with.
Hope this helps a bit. Should you have any further inquiries, do post here and I'll try to come up with a few more tips.
while Hamburg is IMHO a city worth seeing, it does not offer too many truly historic sights as it was heavily bombed during WWII and there was a big fire in the 19th century. In addition Hamburg's inhabitants are very commercial (this city has been thriving on trade ever since its foundation) and therefore very practical. This leads to buildings being replaced once they don't serve their purpose anymore.
Still, there should be enough to do during your stay and I'll throw in a few suggestions:
<b>Historical sights:</b>
<i>City Hall:</i> City Hall is a pretty impressive structure on Rathausmarkt (U-Bahn stop) right in the center of town behind the Inner- Alster Lake. Tours are available, though I am not sure how frequently.
<i>St. Michael's church:</i> St. Michael ("Michel"
is Hamburg's landmark church. It is located not far from Landungsbruecken overlooking the city and the river. A fantastic view can be enjoyed once you have climbed the numerous steps of its spire (small fee). Train stop would be Stadthausbruecke.<i>Krameramtsgasse:</i> This small alley is basically the only one that survived the big fire more than a hundred years ago. It consists of small buildings reflecting street life and living in the old days. It is only steps from St. Michael and a bit tricky to find. Look for an alley just to the left of a restaurant called "Krameramtsstuben" a little bit below the back side of the church.
<i>Speicherstadt:</i> This term translates to warehouse district, where in old brick buildings spices, tea, coffee and carpets are being stored, but which also is a big development area much like the Docklands in London. I recommend you visit the Kesselhaus, a building in which they display a model of the current city and of what's to come - you'll get an impression of the development in the area within the next 10 to 20 years. It is located just opposite the "Miniatur Wunderland", a model railroad museum housed in one of the warehouses (that is quite worthwhile to see BTW as their simulation of things is so realistic and as this is one of largest model railroad complexes in the world). Train stop would be Messberg. You could also take a ferry from Landungsbruecken and unboard at Sandtorkai. Ferries in the port are included in the Transport System (called HVV) daypass.
<i>Strandweg in Oevelgoenne:</i> Strandweg is a small pedestrian walkway in Oevelgoenne down by the River Elbe and lined with pretty neat old Captain's houses. It is best accessible by ferry from Landungsbruecken. Strandweg invites for a leisurely stroll along the River. If you enjoy a longer walk, you could make it to Teufelsbrueck ("Devil's Bridge"
, a berth down the river (approx. 45 min. to 1 hour), where you could have some coffee and cake in the restaurant right on the berth called "Engel" (Angel).<i>Blankenese:</i> A hilly suburb down the river, this picturesque neighborhood encourages a walk through steep alleys bordering small and beautiful houses, all overlooking the River Elbe and the majestic ocean-going vessels.
<b>Other sights:</b>
<i>Tour of the port:</i> A visit to Hamburg would be incomplete IMHO without a tour of the port. Small and large vessels for tours leave from Landungsbruecken, which is a stop of S-Bahn and U-Bahn trains, too. I think it is best to board one of the small boats called "Barkassen", as these will take you on a tour through the channels of the historic Speicherstadt, too.
<i>Fischmarkt:</i> Should you be in the city on Sundays, the famous fish market is held Sundays starting at around 5 a.m. It is located down by the river, not far from Reeperbahn and does not only feature fish stalls, but in fact produce and other items of all varieties at bargain prices. Usually some Jazz Music and beer is available at Fischauktionshalle (Fish Auction Hall).
Again this is best accessed via ferry from Landungsbruecken. Stop is called appropriately "Fischmarkt".
Local food:
With its proximity to the North and Baltic Seas, Hamburg's food traditionally has a bias for Seafood. There is a signature dish called "Labskaus" that consists of potatoes and corned beef, mashed together and topped with red beets, a pickled herring and a fried egg (and I think it tastes even more horrible than it sounds), but quite a number of even tourists like it.
The other signature dish might be more likely to please your taste buds: Rote Gruetze, which consists of red berries of all sorts (except for Strawberries) that are being cooked for a short time and then served cold. Traditionally it is eaten with Milk and liquid cream only, but quite a number of restaurants cater to the non-natives who might like it with vanilla sauce.
Finally, a plaice "Finkenwerder Style", i.e. fried in bacon and served with potato salad is simple but good.
Restaurants with local food:
<i>Fischereihafen Restaurant:</i> The Fischereihafen Restaurant is a Hamburg institution. Celebrities of all sorts frequent the place, among them the management of the HSV football club. The menu is focused on seafood, with a steak available for those not so much in love with the fish. The atmosphere is sedate and not too hip. However, there is a view of the River right outside the back door. While prices are high in the evenings at around € 20.- per main course, they serve a surprisingly reasonable fixed lunch daily. The address is Grosse Elbstr. No. 143, Tel.: 040- 38 18 16.
Fischmarkt: This seafood place is not located on Fischmarkt fish market, as its name would suggest, but located a few steps down from St. Michael's church and a few steps from the port and Baumwall train stop on Ditmar- Koel- Strasse at the corner of Neustädter Neuer Weg. They don't have a view, but will present you an impressive collection of their catch of the day, which will be prepared according to your preferences in their show style kitchen. Have a glass of beer along with it, or try the dry German Riesling from Schloss Vollrads in the Rheingau region. Food is not inexpensive with a main course at around € 16.- to € 20.-, but served in a nice and relaxed ambiance with very friendly service and it's overall worth it. Tel. 040- 36 38 09
<i>Fischerhaus:</i> This yellow building is very originally Hamburg. It is located right by the port below Hafenstr. The food is seafood only (at least that's all I'd recommend there) and in general nothing to write home about. The interiors dating back to the uninspiring 1950ies isn't either. Still, the fish is fresh and their plaice Finkenwerder Style is huge and pretty good and filling and therefore this has been around for decades and for good reason. I would recommend to have lunch here, only, as the atmosphere does not exactly create the special feeling one might enjoy for dinner. Best accessed through the ferry stop "Fischmarkt" (it is then to the right on the busy street about 250 yards away).
<b>Music:</b>
<i>Hamburger Staatsoper:</i> The opera is located on Stephansplatz (U-Bahn stop) right in the center of town. Whereas it does not draw the big names in opera currently, it still plays host for performances of young aspiring singers. It is also the venue of the Hamburg ballet, which offers worldclass performances under the guidance of American John Neumeier.
<i>Lion King Musical:</i> The Lion King Musical has been playing for a couple of years in a theatre right in the middle of the port, overlooking the city center. It is best accessed through a short ferry ride from Landungsbruecken.
There are more musicals playing, but there are continuous changes. You might consult
http://www.stage-entertainment.de/
should you be interested.
For Live Jazz you could check out the Music Pub "Birdland" on Gaertnerstr.
<b>Caution</b>:
For what it is, just as any cosmopolitan city, Hamburg has some areas that are best to be avoided or which require to walk the streets with caution.
This goes especially for the neighborhoods on the Northern side of Central Station (exit Kirchenallee and tunnels leading to subway line U2). St. Georg, as this area is called, is a multicultural neighborhood that also has attracted large portions of the city's gay population and as such has become somewhat thriving. Lange Reihe Street here is a good example and offers quite a few pleasant bars and restaurants and is pretty safe. However, streets to the North and East of Lange Reihe in the direction of Steindamm should be avoided. They are still home to a lot of drug addicts (with a central drug ambulance being located in the Wuestenrot- building behind the Museum for Arts and Crafts) and cheap brothels. Beware – especially do not pass onto the area of Hansaplatz here!
Also a hub of drug dealers is the small Park called "Sternschanzenpark" to the right once you exit train stop Sternschanze. This is fairly close to the hip and alternative neighborhood of Schanzenviertel, so beware here, too.
Also be on your guard on Reeperbahn! Do not necessarily pass the street called Hamburger Berg with its sleazy bars and pubs, where a lot of criminals reside. Although there is a large presence of Police on Reeperbahn (marked and unmarked), recently there have been stabbings of rivalling gangs that are easy to get involved with.
Hope this helps a bit. Should you have any further inquiries, do post here and I'll try to come up with a few more tips.
Nov 26th, 2005 | 01:40 PM
#3
Original Poster
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 1,137
Likes: 0
HSV,
Thanks for all the great information. Maybe two nights instead of three would suffice. I will also be in Berlin before heading to Hamburg, possibly and extra night there would be a better idea. Any information on Berlin will be appreciated.
Thanks,
mike
Thanks for all the great information. Maybe two nights instead of three would suffice. I will also be in Berlin before heading to Hamburg, possibly and extra night there would be a better idea. Any information on Berlin will be appreciated.
Thanks,
mike
Nov 28th, 2005 | 11:46 AM
#5
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 2,801
Likes: 0
There is a great thread on Berlin sights here authored by fellow Fodorite Palenque.
Check it under
http://www.fodors.com/forums/pgMessa...mresponses=112
I guess 2 nights in Hamburg and 3 in Berlin is a good itinerary.
Do you need suggestions for accomodation?
Check it under
http://www.fodors.com/forums/pgMessa...mresponses=112
I guess 2 nights in Hamburg and 3 in Berlin is a good itinerary.
Do you need suggestions for accomodation?
Trending Topics
Dec 1st, 2005 | 12:26 AM
#9
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 2,801
Likes: 0
Mike,
may I copy parts of my answer from a thread where once the same question was asked? I will add some comments, though:
I would think that there are basically 3 areas that would be nice for a tourist to stay in in Berlin:
Staying in <b>Mitte</b>, which is currently the most popular tourist destination. Unter den Linden Blvd is a very nice shopping street adjacent to the Brandenburg Gate. The Gendarmenmarkt Square is a beautiful one sporting the German and French Dome cathedrals and Museum Island features some fantastic exhibitions. Hackesche Hoefe are an interestingly revived shopping and lounging area closer to the slightly non-descript or even Stalinist- monstrous Alexanderplatz.
For hotels you might want to look into the newly built (and very nice looking) <i>Radisson SAS</i> on Karl-Liebknecht-Str., right next to Museum Island; the <i>Westin Grand<(/i>, the GDR's former Grand Hotel for Western visitors willing to spend serious Deutsch Marks in the East and the <i>Hilton on Gendarmenmarkt</i>. Germany's flagship hotel <i>Adlon Kempinski</i> right opposite the Brandenburg Gate, of course would be an option, too, if money isn't an issue.
Staying in <b>Charlottenburg</b>, the former West Berlin Center around Kurfuerstendamm (Ku'damm). This is an area that has lost some of its appeal to tourists, but more and more Berliners are moving back into the lively area where they feel less bothered by tourists. Lots of nice restaurants, pubs and bars, too (esp. around Savignyplatz). The vibe is very original Berlin if you catch my drift. Nice hotels would be the <i>Swissotel</i>, the <i>Interconti</i> and the <i>Dorint Sofitel Schweizerhof</i>, all of theese bigger properties. The <i>Bristol Kempinski</i> is still not bad, having once been West Berlin's premier hotel, but its glory is fading a bit now that rivals have sprung up especially in Mitte. For smaller properties there is <i>Hotel Bleibtreu</i>, which is design oriented, but a bit IKEA-ish IMHO or hot properties <i>Hotel Q</i> and <i>Ku'damm 101</i>, both on Kurfuerstendamm. I think a smaller property called <i>Hecker's Hotel</i> was once recommended by a fello Fodorite, too.
Staying on or near <b>Potsdamer Platz</b>. Potsdamer Platz is a new neighborhood close to Brandenburg Gate and basically wedged in between the former West (Charlottenburg/Tiergarten) and former East (Mitte) centers of town. It used to be in the middle of the death strip separating the two cities.
The modern architecture is worthwhile seeing and there are quite a few cinemas and some very nice hotels (e.g. the <i>Grand Hyatt</i>, just voted Germany's best ambiance hotel and widely considered the best Hyatt worldwide - and my perrsonal favourite in Berlin); the <i>Marriott</i> and the <i>Madison Suites</i
. The surroundings are a bit artificial, though and definitely touristy. I still like the location because it enables you to take short hops by train into the different centers.
</i>
may I copy parts of my answer from a thread where once the same question was asked? I will add some comments, though:
I would think that there are basically 3 areas that would be nice for a tourist to stay in in Berlin:
Staying in <b>Mitte</b>, which is currently the most popular tourist destination. Unter den Linden Blvd is a very nice shopping street adjacent to the Brandenburg Gate. The Gendarmenmarkt Square is a beautiful one sporting the German and French Dome cathedrals and Museum Island features some fantastic exhibitions. Hackesche Hoefe are an interestingly revived shopping and lounging area closer to the slightly non-descript or even Stalinist- monstrous Alexanderplatz.
For hotels you might want to look into the newly built (and very nice looking) <i>Radisson SAS</i> on Karl-Liebknecht-Str., right next to Museum Island; the <i>Westin Grand<(/i>, the GDR's former Grand Hotel for Western visitors willing to spend serious Deutsch Marks in the East and the <i>Hilton on Gendarmenmarkt</i>. Germany's flagship hotel <i>Adlon Kempinski</i> right opposite the Brandenburg Gate, of course would be an option, too, if money isn't an issue.
Staying in <b>Charlottenburg</b>, the former West Berlin Center around Kurfuerstendamm (Ku'damm). This is an area that has lost some of its appeal to tourists, but more and more Berliners are moving back into the lively area where they feel less bothered by tourists. Lots of nice restaurants, pubs and bars, too (esp. around Savignyplatz). The vibe is very original Berlin if you catch my drift. Nice hotels would be the <i>Swissotel</i>, the <i>Interconti</i> and the <i>Dorint Sofitel Schweizerhof</i>, all of theese bigger properties. The <i>Bristol Kempinski</i> is still not bad, having once been West Berlin's premier hotel, but its glory is fading a bit now that rivals have sprung up especially in Mitte. For smaller properties there is <i>Hotel Bleibtreu</i>, which is design oriented, but a bit IKEA-ish IMHO or hot properties <i>Hotel Q</i> and <i>Ku'damm 101</i>, both on Kurfuerstendamm. I think a smaller property called <i>Hecker's Hotel</i> was once recommended by a fello Fodorite, too.
Staying on or near <b>Potsdamer Platz</b>. Potsdamer Platz is a new neighborhood close to Brandenburg Gate and basically wedged in between the former West (Charlottenburg/Tiergarten) and former East (Mitte) centers of town. It used to be in the middle of the death strip separating the two cities.
The modern architecture is worthwhile seeing and there are quite a few cinemas and some very nice hotels (e.g. the <i>Grand Hyatt</i>, just voted Germany's best ambiance hotel and widely considered the best Hyatt worldwide - and my perrsonal favourite in Berlin); the <i>Marriott</i> and the <i>Madison Suites</i
. The surroundings are a bit artificial, though and definitely touristy. I still like the location because it enables you to take short hops by train into the different centers.</i>
Dec 2nd, 2005 | 12:33 PM
#11
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 2,801
Likes: 0
I'd try to stay in the city center. What's your budget?
There are a couple of good chain hotels:
<b>Marriott:</b> Located on Gaensemarkt, only steps from the Inner Alster Lake and shopping passages. Prime location, nice 4 star hotel. A spa is in the basement.
<b>Dorint Sofitel am Alten Wall:</b> Housed in an unimpressive former Post Office Building, the interior is very minimalistic modern design. Looks pretty cool to me and a friend of mine loves the place. The location behind City Hall is good. Very nice spa.
<b>Park Hyatt:</b> Housed in a typical red brick building and hidden inside a shopping arcade, the Park Hyatt reportedly has great rooms. Their spa in the basement (Club Olympus) is really nice and boasts a pool of decent size. Staff is sometimes a bit snooty.
<b>Kempinski Atlantic:</b> A grand dame of Hamburg's hotels formerly built for people travelling on the Transatlantic Ocean Liners leaving from Hamburg's port. Located on the corner of a busy street and the Outer Alster Lake, it is a mere 5 minutes on foot from Central Station. This is an older property and may have its drawbacks - on the other hand has a lot of charms, too. I have heard, though, that the rooms can be a bit hit and miss.
<b>The Intercontinental:</b> A bit further away from the shopping buzz of the center, the uninspiring 70ies concrete monstrum is in a prime location right on the shore of the Outer Alster Lake situated in one of the poshest inner-city neighbourhoods. While not much to look at, this one has been renovated a few years ago and reportedly has pretty good rooms.
<b>Renaissance:</b> The Renaissance is only steps from the Marriott where guests can use the spa free of charge. Housed in a traditional red brick building, the Renaissance is a bit more traditional and personal than the Marriott. It is located in an upscale shopping area with a shopping arcade adjacent to it.
<b>Raffles Hotel Vier Jahreszeiten:</b> One of Europe's finest. A true Grand Hotel in the traditional meaning, this is a Hamburg classic. It overlooks the Inner Alster Lake and is only steps to prime inner city shopping. This is a very formal place (and sometimes a bit stuffy for my taste). A spa is there, too, but without a pool.
<b>Le Royal Méridien:</b> This is Hamurg's newest central addition to 5 star lodging options. A nice property with sleek modern design, this one isn't too far from the Atlantic and also overlooks the Outer Alster Lake. The street in front of it is extremely busy, too. It is not as central for exploring the nicer parts of the center as the others would be. A decent spa is in the basement.
Apart from these options, there are two independent hotels that you might want to take a look at:
<b>Elysée Hotel:</b> Owned by Germany's Steak House Tycoon Eugen Block, this four star hotel has a good reputation for being upscale casual (think of a Marriott, but a good one). It is only steps from Dammtor station (where trains from Berlin arrive just after stopping at Central Station) and is located conveniently for downtown shopping a bit away from the buzz in a nice residential area. Just about 7 minutes to the Outer Alster Lake.
http://www.elysee-hamburg.de
<b>Side Hotel:</b> This is one of the most avantgarde design places. Located in an unimpressive street right in the center and only steps from the Hamburg Opera, the interior was designed by Italian, Milan based, designer Matteo Thun. Rates are pretty steep, usually. A pleasant spa is in the basement.
http://www.side-hamburg.de
There are a couple of good chain hotels:
<b>Marriott:</b> Located on Gaensemarkt, only steps from the Inner Alster Lake and shopping passages. Prime location, nice 4 star hotel. A spa is in the basement.
<b>Dorint Sofitel am Alten Wall:</b> Housed in an unimpressive former Post Office Building, the interior is very minimalistic modern design. Looks pretty cool to me and a friend of mine loves the place. The location behind City Hall is good. Very nice spa.
<b>Park Hyatt:</b> Housed in a typical red brick building and hidden inside a shopping arcade, the Park Hyatt reportedly has great rooms. Their spa in the basement (Club Olympus) is really nice and boasts a pool of decent size. Staff is sometimes a bit snooty.
<b>Kempinski Atlantic:</b> A grand dame of Hamburg's hotels formerly built for people travelling on the Transatlantic Ocean Liners leaving from Hamburg's port. Located on the corner of a busy street and the Outer Alster Lake, it is a mere 5 minutes on foot from Central Station. This is an older property and may have its drawbacks - on the other hand has a lot of charms, too. I have heard, though, that the rooms can be a bit hit and miss.
<b>The Intercontinental:</b> A bit further away from the shopping buzz of the center, the uninspiring 70ies concrete monstrum is in a prime location right on the shore of the Outer Alster Lake situated in one of the poshest inner-city neighbourhoods. While not much to look at, this one has been renovated a few years ago and reportedly has pretty good rooms.
<b>Renaissance:</b> The Renaissance is only steps from the Marriott where guests can use the spa free of charge. Housed in a traditional red brick building, the Renaissance is a bit more traditional and personal than the Marriott. It is located in an upscale shopping area with a shopping arcade adjacent to it.
<b>Raffles Hotel Vier Jahreszeiten:</b> One of Europe's finest. A true Grand Hotel in the traditional meaning, this is a Hamburg classic. It overlooks the Inner Alster Lake and is only steps to prime inner city shopping. This is a very formal place (and sometimes a bit stuffy for my taste). A spa is there, too, but without a pool.
<b>Le Royal Méridien:</b> This is Hamurg's newest central addition to 5 star lodging options. A nice property with sleek modern design, this one isn't too far from the Atlantic and also overlooks the Outer Alster Lake. The street in front of it is extremely busy, too. It is not as central for exploring the nicer parts of the center as the others would be. A decent spa is in the basement.
Apart from these options, there are two independent hotels that you might want to take a look at:
<b>Elysée Hotel:</b> Owned by Germany's Steak House Tycoon Eugen Block, this four star hotel has a good reputation for being upscale casual (think of a Marriott, but a good one). It is only steps from Dammtor station (where trains from Berlin arrive just after stopping at Central Station) and is located conveniently for downtown shopping a bit away from the buzz in a nice residential area. Just about 7 minutes to the Outer Alster Lake.
http://www.elysee-hamburg.de
<b>Side Hotel:</b> This is one of the most avantgarde design places. Located in an unimpressive street right in the center and only steps from the Hamburg Opera, the interior was designed by Italian, Milan based, designer Matteo Thun. Rates are pretty steep, usually. A pleasant spa is in the basement.
http://www.side-hamburg.de
Dec 4th, 2005 | 03:13 AM
#13
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 2,833
Likes: 0
hsv,
I'm surprised to hear that you actually found some of the Hamburg Hyatt staff a bit snooty because in my experience (3 stays) they have been nothing but the most polite & helpful staff from the reception to the restaurant & club lounge. I don't always tip hotel staff, but I gladly did in that hotel simply because they were always so personally gracious. I credit it to their staff training. BTW, I don't work for Hyatt or the hotel industry.
On the other hand, I was so disappointed with the staff at Le Meridien in Hamburg that I cancelled my stay there and moved to the Hyatt even though I have membership in both hotel chains. I have to admit that, physically, it is the best Le Meridien in Germany.
I'm surprised to hear that you actually found some of the Hamburg Hyatt staff a bit snooty because in my experience (3 stays) they have been nothing but the most polite & helpful staff from the reception to the restaurant & club lounge. I don't always tip hotel staff, but I gladly did in that hotel simply because they were always so personally gracious. I credit it to their staff training. BTW, I don't work for Hyatt or the hotel industry.
On the other hand, I was so disappointed with the staff at Le Meridien in Hamburg that I cancelled my stay there and moved to the Hyatt even though I have membership in both hotel chains. I have to admit that, physically, it is the best Le Meridien in Germany.
Dec 4th, 2005 | 11:07 AM
#14
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 2,801
Likes: 0
DAX,
living in the city, I obviously did not stay at the Hyatt (although I usually do like their international properties a lot). I was there for a few occasions, though, and twice I thought the staff working by the doors on the ground floor wasn't exactly up to par with friendliness. Thus, I thought I might mention it here. Probably they did not treat me the same as the guests I was visiting. However, and I will gladly add that here (as I probably should have in the first place) that I also thought that one of their female receptionists was extremely nice.
living in the city, I obviously did not stay at the Hyatt (although I usually do like their international properties a lot). I was there for a few occasions, though, and twice I thought the staff working by the doors on the ground floor wasn't exactly up to par with friendliness. Thus, I thought I might mention it here. Probably they did not treat me the same as the guests I was visiting. However, and I will gladly add that here (as I probably should have in the first place) that I also thought that one of their female receptionists was extremely nice.
Dec 4th, 2005 | 08:28 PM
#15
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 2,833
Likes: 0
hsv,
You've got a good point. I probably had the least contact with the doormen downstairs. Against my better judgement, I was posting at 3 am last night (jetlagged). Hopefully that explains my rambling about the Park Hyatt touch.
I should also rephrase my previous comment: "I don't always tip hotel staff" which made me sound like Ebony Scrooge. Of course, I always tip the bellman & valet, but what I meant to say is that I don't always tip the concierge/club lounge team during my stay unless I'm satisfied. That particular hotel has an impeccable team and is truly a hidden gem because it's quite a bargain compared to other Park Hyatts. Too bad you live in the same city as you have no excuse to stay there.
Glad that you're on our board as the Hamburg/Berlin resource, you always give such invaluable advice. I'm still waiting for the Hafencity to be built. I have a feeling the continuing slow economy is going to delay the project.
You've got a good point. I probably had the least contact with the doormen downstairs. Against my better judgement, I was posting at 3 am last night (jetlagged). Hopefully that explains my rambling about the Park Hyatt touch.
I should also rephrase my previous comment: "I don't always tip hotel staff" which made me sound like Ebony Scrooge. Of course, I always tip the bellman & valet, but what I meant to say is that I don't always tip the concierge/club lounge team during my stay unless I'm satisfied. That particular hotel has an impeccable team and is truly a hidden gem because it's quite a bargain compared to other Park Hyatts. Too bad you live in the same city as you have no excuse to stay there.
Glad that you're on our board as the Hamburg/Berlin resource, you always give such invaluable advice. I'm still waiting for the Hafencity to be built. I have a feeling the continuing slow economy is going to delay the project.
Dec 4th, 2005 | 10:36 PM
#16
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 2,801
Likes: 0
DAX,
I am quite optimistic regarding the Hafencity. There seems to be some progress and more and more companies and people start to take an interest. If you go there on a Sunday afternoon, you'll find throngs of people (a number of them evidently pretty well heeled) ambling the streets (and looking for places where it might be worth to acquire some property).
With the move of the Deutsche Bahn AG being discussed currently (Deutsche Bahn wants to relocate from Berlin to Hamburg because they are interested in obtaining a logistics company in the port, but politicians are afraid that might be the wrong signal for the struggling economy in Eastern Germany), there might be more fuel for the Hafencity, as the suggested headquarters might well be located there. SAP also have a huge office there and more are being built. Also a very nice Naval Museum is on its way to completion.
I am quite optimistic regarding the Hafencity. There seems to be some progress and more and more companies and people start to take an interest. If you go there on a Sunday afternoon, you'll find throngs of people (a number of them evidently pretty well heeled) ambling the streets (and looking for places where it might be worth to acquire some property).
With the move of the Deutsche Bahn AG being discussed currently (Deutsche Bahn wants to relocate from Berlin to Hamburg because they are interested in obtaining a logistics company in the port, but politicians are afraid that might be the wrong signal for the struggling economy in Eastern Germany), there might be more fuel for the Hafencity, as the suggested headquarters might well be located there. SAP also have a huge office there and more are being built. Also a very nice Naval Museum is on its way to completion.
Dec 5th, 2005 | 05:10 PM
#18
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 2,833
Likes: 0
hsv,
That's good to know, I can't wait to see Hafencity come into existence. Your DB move explanation makes me understand why Hamburg has a good business/economic viability (Port/cargo). I'm surprised that land is still available inside Hafencity. I thought the whole area would've already been owned by the real estate developers by now. Has there been any significant appreciation in real estate in Hamburg within the last 5-10 years?
Since you often visit Berlin, I'd like to change the subject to Berlin. I am curious why manufacturing & other businesses are not moving any faster into Berlin where the government is investing so much. Aren't rent & labor cheaper in Berlin than Munich, Frankfurt or the Ruhr cities? I would imagine that there are tax benefits for companies to move into Berlin or the new states in general. I'm trying to understand why Berlin (or Dresden) is not doing better economically. Compared to other Western European capitals, Berlin seems to have bargain value real estate. They did such a great job transforming Berlin. I appreciate it if you can enlighten me about Berlin. It's not something easy to learn from outside Germany. I know this is beyond sightseeing & local foods, sorry Mike.
BTW Mike,of all the American hotel chains,I would pick Hyatt/Renaissance/Marriott over Intercontinental if there's a choice in which hotel points to use. The Interconti renovated room is really not that great to justify its non central location.
That's good to know, I can't wait to see Hafencity come into existence. Your DB move explanation makes me understand why Hamburg has a good business/economic viability (Port/cargo). I'm surprised that land is still available inside Hafencity. I thought the whole area would've already been owned by the real estate developers by now. Has there been any significant appreciation in real estate in Hamburg within the last 5-10 years?
Since you often visit Berlin, I'd like to change the subject to Berlin. I am curious why manufacturing & other businesses are not moving any faster into Berlin where the government is investing so much. Aren't rent & labor cheaper in Berlin than Munich, Frankfurt or the Ruhr cities? I would imagine that there are tax benefits for companies to move into Berlin or the new states in general. I'm trying to understand why Berlin (or Dresden) is not doing better economically. Compared to other Western European capitals, Berlin seems to have bargain value real estate. They did such a great job transforming Berlin. I appreciate it if you can enlighten me about Berlin. It's not something easy to learn from outside Germany. I know this is beyond sightseeing & local foods, sorry Mike.
BTW Mike,of all the American hotel chains,I would pick Hyatt/Renaissance/Marriott over Intercontinental if there's a choice in which hotel points to use. The Interconti renovated room is really not that great to justify its non central location.
Dec 5th, 2005 | 09:59 PM
#19
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 2,801
Likes: 0
DAX,
this is indeed an interesting question that I have been wondering about myself.
After long years of isolation, the city of Berlin, which is also a German state of its own, as you may well be aware, is financially challenged. Berlin depends heavily on the "Laender-Finanz-Ausgleich", a fund formed by the seperate German states where the economically strong states contribute and economically weaker states withdraw money. Overall it's subsidies being paid by the wealthier states.
With all this funding, Berlin still seems to struggle immensely and with all the investments made after more than 15 years of unification this amazes. It <i>might</i> play a role that Berlin is being governed by a left wing coalition - on the other hand it wasn't any different when they had a coalition of SPD and CDU running the city.
The only explanation I have by now is that once one is dependent on subsidies, there is little incentive to really change this - and Berlin is thriving on loans.
The most disturbing aspect about this is that they use the subsidies they receive (to a large extent from the city of Hamburg, which, as a state of its own, too, is one of the bigger contributors to the fund) to actively recruit companies from other regions in Germany. Lots of advertising and media companies were pursuaded to move from Hamburg to Berlin by offering them attractive real-estate, rents and tax-cuts.
What may play a role is that Berlin is still not that centrally located in Germany and that it does not yet have an airport of international relevance. This would make it easier to reach and therefore more attractive to potential investors.
This is the best I can come up with - with the way things are being run in this country, one never ceases to wonder why things don't work the way they should. Or rather one isn't even surprised anymore.
Regarding the real estate values in Hamburg: I don't think there has been any significant appreciations in its value. To a large extent I believe this is due to a sluggish economy. Many unemployed and the ones with jobs not sure whether they will keep it, people are not that much willing to invest their money and take up loans. Additionally, I believe that large parts of the current Hafencity development are still being owned by the city of Hamburg itself or companies that are 100 % state owned. So the city is very much in the driver's seat when it comes to make decisions on whether to sell or not to sell. And with that much real estate being brought to the market, it would take a lot of growth of the city (which admittedly is what they are trying to generate) to make real estate prices rise.
Finally, while I do agree with your recommendation to opt for the Marriott or Hyatt rather than the Interconti, I don't believe there is any Renaissance Hotel in Berlin. Probably you were referring to the Radisson?
this is indeed an interesting question that I have been wondering about myself.
After long years of isolation, the city of Berlin, which is also a German state of its own, as you may well be aware, is financially challenged. Berlin depends heavily on the "Laender-Finanz-Ausgleich", a fund formed by the seperate German states where the economically strong states contribute and economically weaker states withdraw money. Overall it's subsidies being paid by the wealthier states.
With all this funding, Berlin still seems to struggle immensely and with all the investments made after more than 15 years of unification this amazes. It <i>might</i> play a role that Berlin is being governed by a left wing coalition - on the other hand it wasn't any different when they had a coalition of SPD and CDU running the city.
The only explanation I have by now is that once one is dependent on subsidies, there is little incentive to really change this - and Berlin is thriving on loans.
The most disturbing aspect about this is that they use the subsidies they receive (to a large extent from the city of Hamburg, which, as a state of its own, too, is one of the bigger contributors to the fund) to actively recruit companies from other regions in Germany. Lots of advertising and media companies were pursuaded to move from Hamburg to Berlin by offering them attractive real-estate, rents and tax-cuts.
What may play a role is that Berlin is still not that centrally located in Germany and that it does not yet have an airport of international relevance. This would make it easier to reach and therefore more attractive to potential investors.
This is the best I can come up with - with the way things are being run in this country, one never ceases to wonder why things don't work the way they should. Or rather one isn't even surprised anymore.
Regarding the real estate values in Hamburg: I don't think there has been any significant appreciations in its value. To a large extent I believe this is due to a sluggish economy. Many unemployed and the ones with jobs not sure whether they will keep it, people are not that much willing to invest their money and take up loans. Additionally, I believe that large parts of the current Hafencity development are still being owned by the city of Hamburg itself or companies that are 100 % state owned. So the city is very much in the driver's seat when it comes to make decisions on whether to sell or not to sell. And with that much real estate being brought to the market, it would take a lot of growth of the city (which admittedly is what they are trying to generate) to make real estate prices rise.
Finally, while I do agree with your recommendation to opt for the Marriott or Hyatt rather than the Interconti, I don't believe there is any Renaissance Hotel in Berlin. Probably you were referring to the Radisson?
Dec 6th, 2005 | 05:35 AM
#20
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 2,833
Likes: 0
Thanks for explaining all that. I'm beginning to understand why people in the old bundeslaender continue to get a bit irritated about the reunification (15 years later) plus all the subsidies for the new eastern european countries joining EU.
I've heard about Berlin's city government being so used to subsidies since the start of cold war when the Federal government used to support West Berlin. It's surprising that it is not more successful despite all the attractive real estate, tax breaks & cheaper east labor. I suppose that's a good thing for Hamburg, though I think Hamburg will always thrive considering its track record and the largest port. I have to say access to Berlin is getting easier with Delta & Continental Airlines flying direct from New York to Berlin.
Just out of curiousity, do you know what kinds of property tax (% amount) one has to pay for a city apartment in Germany? I wonder if it's like in France where there is property tax and an addtional tax for residing inside the property.
As far as Renaissance Hotel, I was talking about Renaissance Hamburg on Grosse Bleichen not Berlin since Mike mentioned using points for 3 nights in Hamburg. I probably confused everyone by jumping to Berlin in my previous posting.
I've heard about Berlin's city government being so used to subsidies since the start of cold war when the Federal government used to support West Berlin. It's surprising that it is not more successful despite all the attractive real estate, tax breaks & cheaper east labor. I suppose that's a good thing for Hamburg, though I think Hamburg will always thrive considering its track record and the largest port. I have to say access to Berlin is getting easier with Delta & Continental Airlines flying direct from New York to Berlin.
Just out of curiousity, do you know what kinds of property tax (% amount) one has to pay for a city apartment in Germany? I wonder if it's like in France where there is property tax and an addtional tax for residing inside the property.
As far as Renaissance Hotel, I was talking about Renaissance Hamburg on Grosse Bleichen not Berlin since Mike mentioned using points for 3 nights in Hamburg. I probably confused everyone by jumping to Berlin in my previous posting.
