THINGS TO DO IN AND AROUND LISBON

Old Mar 11th, 2006, 07:04 AM
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Sher, I hope you realise my comment re Evora was really just a veiled criticism of Rick Steve...
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Old Mar 11th, 2006, 07:52 AM
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Surely we are enjoying ourselves immensely. And we've found a fair share of responsibilities. I eat and drink and Matt takes pictures and writes the reports
Sher, I have good news for you. The egg is a side order. So, like many other things in life, if you don't ask, you don't get.
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Old Mar 11th, 2006, 08:08 AM
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Yes Matt, I did realize the irony in your commetents.
And actully, Steves'2005 book is an improvement over the 2004 book which only gave Portugal about 20 pages in the Spain and Portugal guide. Something I told him about when I saw him. I didn't see it, but maybe he ONLY mentioned Evora. But I think even he would mention Lisbon!
I hope my sarcasm comes across in this post.
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Old Mar 11th, 2006, 12:52 PM
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In case anyone is wondering all images were taken by me bar the final shot which was taken by the waiter. Medium resolution JPEG on my little Canon A80 digital compact - the only changes made was to resize for the web in photoshop - no modifications done, the sunset was that incredible.

Matt
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Old Mar 11th, 2006, 01:41 PM
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i'm so sad that i missed the two of you and the first dining club meeting! my husband had the laptop while working the whole time so i had no access to it until tonight! thanks so much for the gracious invitation, we would have loved to meet the two of you! we did go to trindade on thursday night and had nearly the same meal (add a tomato salad for me, a soup for husband and desserts).

instead of the tourist tram, i took the #25 tram from praca de comercio to the end. (on a side note, the driver was a bit impatient with me when i tried to buy the ticket on board and although i had exact change, he was yelling at me about something to which a lovely lady came to my rescue. in addition an elderly lady whom i helped board the tram, yelled at the driver for me along with other passengers for about 5 stops and the first lady told me to ignore the driver because he was just a mean old man.) i walked around the cemetary, browsed the many fabric and design stores and took pictures of the church nearby. i then hopped on the #28 and took it to the end (no problem with the nice tram driver this time)and saw some gorgeous views. there was some official business going on at the palacio de sao bento with many police officers and a huge crowd near the steps. more than all the beautiful sites, i was impressed by the people on the tram. as elderly passengers came on the tram, we all took turns getting up and offering seats to them and also to the pregnant woman. i sincerely believe that a society which shows respect to the elderly are kind and warm natured people.

let's see, what else have i been up to? lots of people watching at the cafes, went to the centro columbo and walked around the supermarket for about an hour. i was sad that i didn't have a kitchen. i really wanted to buy the fish, cheese, bread and the cured meats. i did end up with two bottles of port to take home. i also took a cab to the museu calouste gulbenkian (walked back to the hotel like lobo suggested from praca de espanha) and saw a most impressive collection of art. i loved the iznik tiles and pottery from turkey, his collection of lalique ornaments and glass, and the numerous masters of art, rembrandt, ruben, fragonard, manet, monet and even a sargent. i especially enjoyed having a snack on the patio and walk around the grounds. due to a programmed social engagement that comes with all scientific meetings, i accompanied my husband tonight to pateo alfacinha. the drive from the hotel to pateo alfacinha was breathtaking! we went under the aqueduct, saw the ponte de abril and cristo rei both during sunset and at night with lights.

tomorrow is my last full day and will be spent by going to belem to see the mosteiro dos jeronimos and trying to catch the frida kahlo exhibit at the ccb. whew! i think that i've been a rather good student of both matt and lobo for the short time that i've been here and i am most grateful for all the advice! i wish i had a few more days herebecause there's still a lot of places i wanted to go to, but i guess it will give me an excuse to come back. hopefully, we'll get a place a little bit closer to the city center and one with a kitchen too. =)
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Old Mar 11th, 2006, 03:22 PM
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Hj,

Glad to see everything is working out - that thing at São Bento, I believe G.Bush Senior was in town, is that right Lobo so maybe he was getting his behind kissed by the POrtuguese PM etc.

If you go to see the Frida Kahlo exhibition post a quick response when you have time as I still haven't had chance to go there.

It's funny, driving acorss Ponte 25 Abril and seeing Christo Rei lit up is such a regular event for me I don't look twice, however your enthusiasm has reopened my eyes a little and I'll look up next time I do.

Take care and have a safe journey back home, we'll all hook up one day somewhere.

Matt
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Old Mar 12th, 2006, 06:56 AM
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HJ, is so sad to know that you have been just 20 steps away of the chocolate cake and coffee shop and you missed it!!! Shame on you!!!
Tell us about the experience in Trindade. Do they match with Matt's report?
From Praça de Espanha to your hotel you walked around the wall of the US Embassy. Since the 9/11, the area is under permanent surveillance by the Portuguese police.
The official act you witnessed was the change from former President to the new elected President. There were a lot of international figures in town, including Bush senior. But the individuality that received more attention from the public and the media was Letizia, the likely future Spanish queen.
Please come back soon, we are waiting for you.
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Old Mar 12th, 2006, 02:38 PM
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yes, my experience at Trindade was very similar to what matt posted. the clams were a bit salty, but the monkfish was delicious. speaking of seafood, we went to dinner tonight at cervejeira solmar which is one street east of avenida liberdade, on rua portas de santo antao near the hard rock cafe. we went to this place because there were no eager waitstaff outside trying their darndest to draw tourists in, which made me think that they don't have problems filling their seats (and they didn't). we had a small salad to start and the cataplana (sp?) de mariscos which was delicious! the waiter brought on a cart a domed dish of lobster, tiger shrimps, clams, mussels and smaller shrimp with potatoes and rice on the side. he served up the dish in front of us, taking care to give me the better parts of the lobster =) in a lovely presentation. we had a bottle of slightly fizzy white wine (it reads pazo conchas on the receipt) which was nicely chilled. we were too full for dessert so we ended with a bica each. it was a little bit pricey, but delicious. we also got to watch the 1st half of the benfica game!

as for the trip to belem, we took a cab to the mosteiro. the mosteiro was imposing, grand and crowded because it was sunday and admission was free. we also took advantage of the free admission and went to the national archaeological museum. we enjoyed the exhibit of ancient tombs, mummies, and mosaics.

the frida kahlo exhibit was also a little bit crowded. it cost 5 euros per person. you got a pretty good sense of who she was through photos and her artwork, especially how physical pain really affected her outlook on life. the exhibit was a little smaller than expected though. i think it would have been good if there were more actual paintings. the ones there were so good that you wanted more, but have to be satisfied with the book from the olmeda museum in mexico. we ended our day in belem by having a snack at the cafetaria soaking in the cool breezes with a view of the bridge, cristo rei, sailboats and the river. the ccb is a fabulous place and if we lived here, we'd become members or something to take advantage of the place for the exhibits, shows, lectures and give support to it.

we're now packed and our stay here has come to an end. we really had a great time and would highly recommend it to our friends. of course, it would not have been the same without all the help from the locals. thanks lobo and matt! i'm not sure if you two will make it to boston anytime soon, but i would love to assist in planning your travels. i'll keep checking in on this site! i'm also helpful when it comes to los angeles (grew up there) and san diego (went to college there). thanks again!
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Old Mar 12th, 2006, 03:13 PM
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Have a safe flight home HJ, and glad you had a great time. I'll be thinking of you when the baseball season starts again and will look foward to those Red Sox / Yankees encounters!

Matt
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Old Mar 12th, 2006, 06:26 PM
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I am still waiting to see if anyone has any idea of the arrangement of houses inside the Castelo walls.
The apartment I found is supposed to be inside the arch and a three minute walk to the door.
The owner says the taxi can take us right to the door.
The street is Rua do Espirito Santo. Anyone heard of it? Any suggestions about what I might be getting myself into as far as a very long steep climb.
Thanks.
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Old Mar 14th, 2006, 02:29 AM
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Sher, I wouldn't stay inside St George Castle walls. I don't know exactly which appartments are you referring to, but I don't think it's something very special. If you want to experience real ancient castles, there are other Pousadas that I believe are more attractive.
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Old Mar 14th, 2006, 03:52 AM
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Thanks lobo_mau.
The logistics of getting around from that particular place might be too much trouble for us, I think. We want to see more of Lisbon than we did the last time.
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Old Mar 14th, 2006, 04:28 PM
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Has any one heard the rumour of how run down Lisbon is? I'd hate to disappoint all those who are coming to visit, Lobo and I have been lying to you all along. Our city really is a crummy place to visit ;-)
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Old Mar 14th, 2006, 04:41 PM
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I think I did read something on another post. But don't worry, Matt.
Lobo gave the person good advice.

But if he isn't believed, well they will just have to visit and judge for themselves.
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Old Mar 14th, 2006, 04:43 PM
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Ah dear Sher, you bring sanity where there is madness...
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Old Mar 14th, 2006, 07:00 PM
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You guys are soooo bad - I love it!

I do hope it was not the dining club dinner that got you down Matt - one of those Rick Steves tourist places!

I for one can not wait to see that old run down Lisbon.
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Old Mar 15th, 2006, 12:18 AM
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Why don't you believe that I was sincerelly advising the person in the other thread to visit Seville? Nobody takes me for serious Ok, I think that my screen name doesn't help.
Referring to the Lisbon Dining Club, I have now 2 places in the waiting list, Casa dos Passarinhos in Campo de Ourique and Ze Pinto in Buraca (not a typo) area. Both of them are not listed by Rick Steves
I know first hand the first of these sites and have received very good reviews from B&SIL (brother and sister in law).
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Old Mar 15th, 2006, 06:39 AM
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Lobo. I always take you seriously. How could you think otherwise.

If we do not make it to have pastel de nata in Belem, can you mention another bakery or two? If I am going to consume the calories, I want to make it worth my while!



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Old Mar 15th, 2006, 07:01 AM
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1 Chocolate cake and coffee shop (I was so sad to learn that hjboston was 20 steps away and missed it); 2 Periquita in Sintra (travesseiros & queijadas); 3 Confeitaria nacional (Lisbon downtown); 4 Pastelaria Suissa (side facing Rossio square is great to take a chair and watch people passing by)
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Old Mar 16th, 2006, 04:39 PM
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You all ok over there? I hope Matt is better soon. Maybe we just have no more questions - you did such a great job!

I have worked hard and now have all my reservations and itinerary planned. Now to read all the books and start asking more questions. Only 10 weeks to go!

One question from back a few posts - do you know much about serra de aire? The caves and dinosaur tracks look interesting but is it too touristy or for real?

Also that pesky question about the metro tickets. Seems like the LisboaCard may be more than we need for only 3 days. We tend to spend a lot of time in one museum so may not get to too many. I have the ones I don't want to miss and then whatever we can fit in. Does any ticket cover the trams or are they totally seperate?

And beer suggestions?

Thanks in advance.
Barbara

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