There and Back Again: A London Tale
Apr 30th, 2019, 07:42 PM
#101
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You are really fortunate on the VAT issue. The last time we came home through LHR T5, we decided to bypass the huge line for refunds before security and do it airside. Fortunately we had most of our things with us (taking the most valuable in carry on rather than check through) but we encountered several people who were not so fortunate since they had things they could not carry on (like golf clubs, etc.) and they did not receive their refunds, credit or cash. They were pretty disappointed. Something to remember.
Oddly, the tax refund place landside seems content that you have your carry on that you say has the items in question but the VAT refund airside wants to see the items.
I've really enjoyed your TR, Denisea, and I hope we can try a couple of your restaurants when we are in London in July. We'll be hitting the Dior show, for certain, and will try to see the jewelry while we are there.
Cheers; I can't wait for your next trip!
Oddly, the tax refund place landside seems content that you have your carry on that you say has the items in question but the VAT refund airside wants to see the items.
I've really enjoyed your TR, Denisea, and I hope we can try a couple of your restaurants when we are in London in July. We'll be hitting the Dior show, for certain, and will try to see the jewelry while we are there.
Cheers; I can't wait for your next trip!
May 1st, 2019, 01:39 PM
#104
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OMG - I know I got lucky on the VAT issue. I have never had any one ask to see the merchandise (and have always had it with me in the past). I did not want to to check my clutch but I had to. Ordinarily, I check all my old stuff and I take the new stuff with me.
Hmmm - The Borough Market Cookbook. I'm gonna need that.
debbe - The V And A . No more than 3 hours and maybe only 2 1/2. An hour of that was in the Dior exhibit which leave no where near enough time in the rest of the museum! But, we were hungry and had a few more things to do, so we moved on. If I were to do it again, I would go more than once. Our apartment was close by and I should have visited multiple times for an hour or two.
Hmmm - The Borough Market Cookbook. I'm gonna need that.
debbe - The V And A . No more than 3 hours and maybe only 2 1/2. An hour of that was in the Dior exhibit which leave no where near enough time in the rest of the museum! But, we were hungry and had a few more things to do, so we moved on. If I were to do it again, I would go more than once. Our apartment was close by and I should have visited multiple times for an hour or two.
May 1st, 2019, 03:21 PM
#106
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It must have been torture to trust that "work of art" to the baggage handlers! It's nice to know that things make it through. Congrats!
May 2nd, 2019, 01:07 PM
#108
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London Trip Go or No – make the trip or skip it
No
Prince of Wales pub—too many other great pubs with much better food
Dean Street Townhouse – if you go, skip the roast chicken
Camden Market – maybe if you are a teenager this would be fun; crowded, grungy “market”; It’s more food stalls that admittedly would have been more fun on a sunny day but would also have been even more crowded
Go
Borough Market – it all looks great but go for the Kappacasein cheese toastie
Kew Gardens
Hide (bar)
Painted Hall at Royal Naval College
Hampton Court Palace
Tandoor Chop House
Ham Yard Bar & Restaurant (bar or dinner)
Builder’s Arms (pub)
V & A
What we did well: Kew Gardens (except for the ticket snafu), Hampton Court Palace, finding our “local” and booking the Dior exhibit early; reservations most nights with some open nights to hang out at our local for more low key nights
What we could have done better:
· The V and A: It was so close to the apartment and we should have stopped in a few times to see more of it. I preferred it to The British Museum.
· Greenwich: Would love more time to explore and while I have been to the Royal Observatory, Chaz has not. I would have liked to visit the market there and the National Maritime Museum. We had good weather just not enough time and the Painted Hall was the reason for going.
· Westminster Abbey– only had time for a quick lap and did not pre-book tickets for the Gallery
Wish we had gotten to: Claridges as their décor always looks amazing; Oscar Wilde Lounge at Hotel Café Royal; Scarfes bar at the Rosewood
So glad we… Got the Historic Royal Palaces family membership and Oyster card before we arrived (I think we ended with less than 3 pounds on our cards). We ended our trip with less than 3 pounds on our oyster card.
In better weather… we would have spent more time exploring Kensington Gardens, Hyde Park and St James’ Park
Next time… Windsor, Upstairs bar at The Connaught, something with a view of London (The Shard, Duck & Waffle), St Paul’s, Old Spitalfields Market; stay over a second Sunday so we can have a second Sunday Roast
Shopping:
Alexander McQueen 27 Old Bond Street London W1S 4QE
Liberty London Regent St, Soho, London W1B 5AH, UK
Edward Green 75 Jermyn St, St. James's, London SW1Y 6NP, UK
Tiger of Sweden UNIT P04, 210 Piccadilly, St. James's, London W1A 9HL, UK
Penhaligon’s 16-17 Burlington Arcade, Piccadilly, Mayfair, London W1J 0PL, UK
Rivet and Hide 5 Windmill St, Fitzrovia, London W1T 2JA, UK
Dining and drinking:
Coco Momo 25 Gloucester Rd, Kensington, London SW7 4PL, UK
Prince of Wales Pub 8 Kensington Church St, Kensington, London W8 4EP, UK
Heddon Street Kitchen 3-9 Heddon St, Mayfair, London W1B 4BE, UK
Café Society, Kynance Mews Kensington
HJEM 3 Launceston Pl, Kensington, London W8 5RL, UK
Da Mario 15 Gloucester Rd, Kensington, London SW7 4PP, UK
Gloucester Arms, 34 Gloucester Rd, Kensington, London SW7 4RB, UK
The Hereford Arms 127 Gloucester Rd, South Kensington, London SW7 4TE, UK
Builders Arms 1 Kensington Ct Pl, Kensington, London W8 5BJ, UK
Anglesea Arms, 15 Selwood Terrace, South Kensington, London SW7 3QG, UK
The Mute Swan, 3 Palace Gate Hampton Court KT8 9BN, United Kingdom
Tandoor Chop House 8 Adelaide St, Charing Cross, London WC2N 4HZ, UK
Ham Yard Bar & Restaurant, 1 Ham Yard, Soho, London W1D 7DT, UK
Dean St Townhouse, 69 - 71 Dean St, Soho, London W1D 3SE, UK
The Wolseley, 160 Piccadilly, St. James's, London W1J 9EB, UK
HIDE, 85 Piccadilly, Mayfair, London W1J 7NB, UK
The Connaught, Carlos Pl, London W1K 2AL, United Kingdom
The Tap on the Line, Kew Gardens Station, Station Approach, Richmond TW9 3PZ, UK
The Jack Horner, 234-236 Tottenham Court Rd, Bloomsbury, London W1T 7QJ, UK
Walkers of Whitehall 15 Craig's Ct, Westminster, London SW1A 2DD, UK
Ink KERB Camden Market The West Yard, United Kingdom
Kappacasein Dairy, 1 Stoney Street London SE1 9AA, UK
We had a wonderful time in London! I appreciate all the input to my Fodor’s questions as we planned the trip and for all your comments to the trip report. We didn't do it all perfectly but I find we make far fewer trip mistakes these days and the forum and Fodorites have a lot to do with that. Knowledge is power! Thanks again everyone!
No
Prince of Wales pub—too many other great pubs with much better food
Dean Street Townhouse – if you go, skip the roast chicken
Camden Market – maybe if you are a teenager this would be fun; crowded, grungy “market”; It’s more food stalls that admittedly would have been more fun on a sunny day but would also have been even more crowded
Go
Borough Market – it all looks great but go for the Kappacasein cheese toastie
Kew Gardens
Hide (bar)
Painted Hall at Royal Naval College
Hampton Court Palace
Tandoor Chop House
Ham Yard Bar & Restaurant (bar or dinner)
Builder’s Arms (pub)
V & A
What we did well: Kew Gardens (except for the ticket snafu), Hampton Court Palace, finding our “local” and booking the Dior exhibit early; reservations most nights with some open nights to hang out at our local for more low key nights
What we could have done better:
· The V and A: It was so close to the apartment and we should have stopped in a few times to see more of it. I preferred it to The British Museum.
· Greenwich: Would love more time to explore and while I have been to the Royal Observatory, Chaz has not. I would have liked to visit the market there and the National Maritime Museum. We had good weather just not enough time and the Painted Hall was the reason for going.
· Westminster Abbey– only had time for a quick lap and did not pre-book tickets for the Gallery
Wish we had gotten to: Claridges as their décor always looks amazing; Oscar Wilde Lounge at Hotel Café Royal; Scarfes bar at the Rosewood
So glad we… Got the Historic Royal Palaces family membership and Oyster card before we arrived (I think we ended with less than 3 pounds on our cards). We ended our trip with less than 3 pounds on our oyster card.
In better weather… we would have spent more time exploring Kensington Gardens, Hyde Park and St James’ Park
Next time… Windsor, Upstairs bar at The Connaught, something with a view of London (The Shard, Duck & Waffle), St Paul’s, Old Spitalfields Market; stay over a second Sunday so we can have a second Sunday Roast
Shopping:
Alexander McQueen 27 Old Bond Street London W1S 4QE
Liberty London Regent St, Soho, London W1B 5AH, UK
Edward Green 75 Jermyn St, St. James's, London SW1Y 6NP, UK
Tiger of Sweden UNIT P04, 210 Piccadilly, St. James's, London W1A 9HL, UK
Penhaligon’s 16-17 Burlington Arcade, Piccadilly, Mayfair, London W1J 0PL, UK
Rivet and Hide 5 Windmill St, Fitzrovia, London W1T 2JA, UK
Dining and drinking:
Coco Momo 25 Gloucester Rd, Kensington, London SW7 4PL, UK
Prince of Wales Pub 8 Kensington Church St, Kensington, London W8 4EP, UK
Heddon Street Kitchen 3-9 Heddon St, Mayfair, London W1B 4BE, UK
Café Society, Kynance Mews Kensington
HJEM 3 Launceston Pl, Kensington, London W8 5RL, UK
Da Mario 15 Gloucester Rd, Kensington, London SW7 4PP, UK
Gloucester Arms, 34 Gloucester Rd, Kensington, London SW7 4RB, UK
The Hereford Arms 127 Gloucester Rd, South Kensington, London SW7 4TE, UK
Builders Arms 1 Kensington Ct Pl, Kensington, London W8 5BJ, UK
Anglesea Arms, 15 Selwood Terrace, South Kensington, London SW7 3QG, UK
The Mute Swan, 3 Palace Gate Hampton Court KT8 9BN, United Kingdom
Tandoor Chop House 8 Adelaide St, Charing Cross, London WC2N 4HZ, UK
Ham Yard Bar & Restaurant, 1 Ham Yard, Soho, London W1D 7DT, UK
Dean St Townhouse, 69 - 71 Dean St, Soho, London W1D 3SE, UK
The Wolseley, 160 Piccadilly, St. James's, London W1J 9EB, UK
HIDE, 85 Piccadilly, Mayfair, London W1J 7NB, UK
The Connaught, Carlos Pl, London W1K 2AL, United Kingdom
The Tap on the Line, Kew Gardens Station, Station Approach, Richmond TW9 3PZ, UK
The Jack Horner, 234-236 Tottenham Court Rd, Bloomsbury, London W1T 7QJ, UK
Walkers of Whitehall 15 Craig's Ct, Westminster, London SW1A 2DD, UK
Ink KERB Camden Market The West Yard, United Kingdom
Kappacasein Dairy, 1 Stoney Street London SE1 9AA, UK
We had a wonderful time in London! I appreciate all the input to my Fodor’s questions as we planned the trip and for all your comments to the trip report. We didn't do it all perfectly but I find we make far fewer trip mistakes these days and the forum and Fodorites have a lot to do with that. Knowledge is power! Thanks again everyone!
May 4th, 2019, 02:31 AM
#113
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<<So, it was time to head to lunch and we chose The Mute Swan right across from the palace. Great choice!>> Glad you took up my suggestion (on another thread), I would never suggest it if it was a tourist trap, have been many times. It is a local pub with a restaurant upstairs which is prebookable. They do a good Sunday roast, fish & chips & other English dishes, it's cosy in winter with fires and dog friendly. The Kings Arms is under renovation and I'll try their new restaurant once open (by Lion Gate at HCP.)
For anyone else that visits Hampton Court, there is a whole street of cafes and restaurants, antique shops, boutiques etc at Bridge Road, tourists bypass it as they are normally in a rush to get back to London or just don't realise that road exists.
Aside from the Tap on the Line pub by Kew Gardens station, there is the Glasshouse Restaurant which is very good, the whole area has some very nice cafes etc which again are not tourist traps & a bus ride (1 or 2 stops max) from Kew Gardens towards Richmond, there is Rock & Rose restaurant and the Shaftesbury Pub bit further up and opposite which is quite good.
For anyone else that visits Hampton Court, there is a whole street of cafes and restaurants, antique shops, boutiques etc at Bridge Road, tourists bypass it as they are normally in a rush to get back to London or just don't realise that road exists.
Aside from the Tap on the Line pub by Kew Gardens station, there is the Glasshouse Restaurant which is very good, the whole area has some very nice cafes etc which again are not tourist traps & a bus ride (1 or 2 stops max) from Kew Gardens towards Richmond, there is Rock & Rose restaurant and the Shaftesbury Pub bit further up and opposite which is quite good.
May 4th, 2019, 06:14 AM
#114
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Aww, thanks everyone.
Weekender - I'd go back in a heartbeat and only wish that F & M could have stayed a bit longer with us! Odin- it was your suggestion and greatly appreciated. I forgot my list that day and when I saw the name I couldn't remember if The Mute Swan was a recommendation (or a skip it at all costs). We loved it and had it been in our neighborhood, we would have visited it multiple times. There was a huge wolfhound visiting with his pup parent while we were there - so definitely pet friendly. We found most of the pubs we visited were very dog friendly.
cmcfong - have a great time!
Weekender - I'd go back in a heartbeat and only wish that F & M could have stayed a bit longer with us! Odin- it was your suggestion and greatly appreciated. I forgot my list that day and when I saw the name I couldn't remember if The Mute Swan was a recommendation (or a skip it at all costs). We loved it and had it been in our neighborhood, we would have visited it multiple times. There was a huge wolfhound visiting with his pup parent while we were there - so definitely pet friendly. We found most of the pubs we visited were very dog friendly.
cmcfong - have a great time!
May 11th, 2019, 07:32 AM
#115
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and you can pretty much replicate that cheese toastie recipe at home 
https://travelswithmaitaitom.com/bor...heese-toastie/
https://travelswithmaitaitom.com/bor...heese-toastie/
Results? Delicious! Not as good as Kappacasein but a terrific substitute.
May 18th, 2019, 09:10 AM
#116
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I love your wrap-up post! Might have to steal that format for my blog. ��
Thanks for another great report. It may be a cliché but I really do feel like I’m with you guys on your trips.
Funny that you mentioned Scarfes. A colleague raved about it, but I just couldn’t squeeze it in on my business trip last fall. There’s a slim possibility I’ll have that same trip around the same time. Except this time I’ll stay longer, bring my husband and skip the research and just use your report!
Thanks for another great report. It may be a cliché but I really do feel like I’m with you guys on your trips.
Funny that you mentioned Scarfes. A colleague raved about it, but I just couldn’t squeeze it in on my business trip last fall. There’s a slim possibility I’ll have that same trip around the same time. Except this time I’ll stay longer, bring my husband and skip the research and just use your report!
May 21st, 2019, 10:44 AM
#117
Denisea.....we’ve chatted so much about Paris so when I came upon your London TR I knew that I was in for a good read.
I’ve been to London twice but both times with my granddaughters so a completely different kind of trip. I am so enjoying a “grown up” kind of experience.
I must ask about those old fashioneds. What were they made with? Whiskey, bourbon, brandy?
Water, seltzer, 7up (God forbid.). I’m from Wisconsin and a Brandy old fashioned sweet (7up) or pres (1/2 seltzer 1/2 7 up) is a quite common drink. I’m a wine girl myself but when I’m with my friends in different states and they order that the bartenders look at them like they are from Mars.
In Europe they didn’t even try.
Anyway, I’m only a few days into your very entertaining and informative TR. I plan on having lunch in London with you for quite a few days taking notes. Thanks for taking the time to keep us up to date on a wonderful city.
BTW, laughed out loud at the “I need to lose 5-10 pounds and grow 6 inches” to fit into designer clothes.
I’ve been to London twice but both times with my granddaughters so a completely different kind of trip. I am so enjoying a “grown up” kind of experience.
I must ask about those old fashioneds. What were they made with? Whiskey, bourbon, brandy?
Water, seltzer, 7up (God forbid.). I’m from Wisconsin and a Brandy old fashioned sweet (7up) or pres (1/2 seltzer 1/2 7 up) is a quite common drink. I’m a wine girl myself but when I’m with my friends in different states and they order that the bartenders look at them like they are from Mars.
In Europe they didn’t even try.
Anyway, I’m only a few days into your very entertaining and informative TR. I plan on having lunch in London with you for quite a few days taking notes. Thanks for taking the time to keep us up to date on a wonderful city.
BTW, laughed out loud at the “I need to lose 5-10 pounds and grow 6 inches” to fit into designer clothes.
May 22nd, 2019, 04:42 PM
#118
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Hi TPAYY—-The Old Fashioned—Usually made with bourbon but Chaz has his made with Rye. There are usually some bitters and orange peel (with the peel squeezed to release a bit of the oil/essence). That’s it. Some bars throw in a brandied cherry and they did at Hide. Very Don Draper.
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