The Dordogne - I wish I could rave!
Jul 22nd, 2013, 05:47 PM
#1
Original Poster
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 2,552
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
The Dordogne - I wish I could rave!
So while we've been back from Paris for over a month I'm still catching up on my blog posts. I'm finally posting about our trip from Provence to the Dordogne and thought some of you might be interested.
I must be honest while we enjoyed driving down the Lot valley and would like to see more of the Auvergne we weren't crazy about the Dordogne. Perhaps it was the weather or maybe the crowds but it didn't speak to us in the same way as the Luberon. However, we still had a good time. Driving over from Bonnieux was time consuming but the stunning scenery after Nimes made it all worthwhile.
We loved seeing two architectural wonders in one drive, the Pont du Gard and the Millau Aquaduct. You can see pictures on the blog post here, truly incredible two engineering marvels 2000 years apart...
http://somuchmoretosee.blogspot.com/...d-viaduct.html
We stopped outside Estaing for a brief overnight visit. This is somewhere I'd certainly return to. The town (which is one of the designated prettiest villages in France) is beautifully situated along the river and the surrounding farmland is spectacular. We plan on coming back to do some walking in the area. You can see how lovely it is for yourself here...
http://somuchmoretosee.blogspot.com/...-auvergne.html
The next day we headed on to Conque which is another of the designated "Beaux Villages" and it is certainly stunning. The situation of the town in a lovely valley is memorable. The architecture of the place is stunning and I highly recommend coming here.
http://somuchmoretosee.blogspot.com/...onderland.html
My husband is interested in Romanesque architecture and so the cathedral was a must stop. The carving above the main door is a masterpiece of the period. It was so impressive that I gave it its own post! I loved the devils, angels and crazy demons! It has to be seen to be believed. These sites really remind you of how biblical stories and religious ideology was conveyed to a predominantly illiterate populous.
http://somuchmoretosee.blogspot.com/...t-conques.html
We drove past Rocamadour and took in the amazing vista of the town clinging to the cliff. WE decided not to stop as we're generally not keen on overly touristy destinations and we took the advice of several on the board. When I saw the crowds and a small mini "train" I felt we'd made the right decision!
We headed on to L'Esplanade hotel in Domme and things started to go a bit down hill. It was entirely my own fault I was working the trip around a family event in Dublin and I hadn't checked the calendar of public/school holiday. I strongly suggest you don't make the same mistake if you're considering the Dordogne in May. There were three public hilidays and the school vacation in a two week period. It was packed. Domme was such a scene that I didn't enjoy it. We generally prefer off season travel and I'm a fan of Paris in the winter if that gives you an idea of our habits. In addition the weather was very dull and quite rainy.
I wasn't keen on L'Esplanade (though the restaurant was good) and wouldn't recommend it - though we ran into an American couple who were also staying there and kept saying "isn't it incredible?". They felt they were "off the beaten track" and had found "a real gem", obviously they didn't see the crowds and small train tooling around town in the same way we did! Well everyone is different. perhaps if we'd come at a different time of year and in better weather we would have felt differently.
We visited several of the lovely gardens and Chateau Milandes which I'll be blogging about later. We left Domme a day early and theaded down to Montpazier which we liked very much. I'd recommend the Edward 1st Hotel run by a lovely Dutch couple. You can see the place here...
http://somuchmoretosee.blogspot.com/...ontpazier.html
We had a very nice meal in their bistro restaurant and would like to return to this area to do some walking.
I wish I could rave about what we saw of the Dordogne, perhaps it was my attitude, the dull weather or the tedium of pushing through throngs of visitors. I get that it's somewhere that appeals to others. Though the geography is more dramatic it reminded me of the Cotswolds in England which can be very lovely but also very touristy. I liked it well enough but it didn't really speak to me and I found it hard to warm to the area which isn't a problem for me in places like Provence, Normandy or Burgundy.
http://somuchmoretosee.blogspot.com/...eally-fan.html
I'm not intending to be provocative, I understand others love it and my luke warm assessment isn't a critique of others who are captivated. We came home and friends I love raved about Sarlat, saying it was their favorite French town. It great that different things speak to different people. So I'd say go and see for yourself but think about going when it isn't so busy.
I must be honest while we enjoyed driving down the Lot valley and would like to see more of the Auvergne we weren't crazy about the Dordogne. Perhaps it was the weather or maybe the crowds but it didn't speak to us in the same way as the Luberon. However, we still had a good time. Driving over from Bonnieux was time consuming but the stunning scenery after Nimes made it all worthwhile.
We loved seeing two architectural wonders in one drive, the Pont du Gard and the Millau Aquaduct. You can see pictures on the blog post here, truly incredible two engineering marvels 2000 years apart...
http://somuchmoretosee.blogspot.com/...d-viaduct.html
We stopped outside Estaing for a brief overnight visit. This is somewhere I'd certainly return to. The town (which is one of the designated prettiest villages in France) is beautifully situated along the river and the surrounding farmland is spectacular. We plan on coming back to do some walking in the area. You can see how lovely it is for yourself here...
http://somuchmoretosee.blogspot.com/...-auvergne.html
The next day we headed on to Conque which is another of the designated "Beaux Villages" and it is certainly stunning. The situation of the town in a lovely valley is memorable. The architecture of the place is stunning and I highly recommend coming here.
http://somuchmoretosee.blogspot.com/...onderland.html
My husband is interested in Romanesque architecture and so the cathedral was a must stop. The carving above the main door is a masterpiece of the period. It was so impressive that I gave it its own post! I loved the devils, angels and crazy demons! It has to be seen to be believed. These sites really remind you of how biblical stories and religious ideology was conveyed to a predominantly illiterate populous.
http://somuchmoretosee.blogspot.com/...t-conques.html
We drove past Rocamadour and took in the amazing vista of the town clinging to the cliff. WE decided not to stop as we're generally not keen on overly touristy destinations and we took the advice of several on the board. When I saw the crowds and a small mini "train" I felt we'd made the right decision!
We headed on to L'Esplanade hotel in Domme and things started to go a bit down hill. It was entirely my own fault I was working the trip around a family event in Dublin and I hadn't checked the calendar of public/school holiday. I strongly suggest you don't make the same mistake if you're considering the Dordogne in May. There were three public hilidays and the school vacation in a two week period. It was packed. Domme was such a scene that I didn't enjoy it. We generally prefer off season travel and I'm a fan of Paris in the winter if that gives you an idea of our habits. In addition the weather was very dull and quite rainy.
I wasn't keen on L'Esplanade (though the restaurant was good) and wouldn't recommend it - though we ran into an American couple who were also staying there and kept saying "isn't it incredible?". They felt they were "off the beaten track" and had found "a real gem", obviously they didn't see the crowds and small train tooling around town in the same way we did! Well everyone is different. perhaps if we'd come at a different time of year and in better weather we would have felt differently.
We visited several of the lovely gardens and Chateau Milandes which I'll be blogging about later. We left Domme a day early and theaded down to Montpazier which we liked very much. I'd recommend the Edward 1st Hotel run by a lovely Dutch couple. You can see the place here...
http://somuchmoretosee.blogspot.com/...ontpazier.html
We had a very nice meal in their bistro restaurant and would like to return to this area to do some walking.
I wish I could rave about what we saw of the Dordogne, perhaps it was my attitude, the dull weather or the tedium of pushing through throngs of visitors. I get that it's somewhere that appeals to others. Though the geography is more dramatic it reminded me of the Cotswolds in England which can be very lovely but also very touristy. I liked it well enough but it didn't really speak to me and I found it hard to warm to the area which isn't a problem for me in places like Provence, Normandy or Burgundy.
http://somuchmoretosee.blogspot.com/...eally-fan.html
I'm not intending to be provocative, I understand others love it and my luke warm assessment isn't a critique of others who are captivated. We came home and friends I love raved about Sarlat, saying it was their favorite French town. It great that different things speak to different people. So I'd say go and see for yourself but think about going when it isn't so busy.
Jul 22nd, 2013, 07:57 PM
#6
Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 4,350
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I absolutely loved the Dordogne but felt kind of lukewarm about Provence, which others absolutely rave about. I just didn't get it. I think your overall first impressions of a place can really make or break a place for you. The weather, crowds, lack of what you envisioned an area to be like all factor into your final impression of a place.
I intend on giving the Provence region another shot and maybe I will come away with a better impression. Nothing wrong with you not enjoying the Dordogne, as there was nothing wrong with me not enjoying Provence as much as I thought I would. I was really scratching my head after my visit: what did everyone else see in this region?
I do feel bad for both of us though that I think we missed something with each of these regions that others love. Thanks for your honesty.
I intend on giving the Provence region another shot and maybe I will come away with a better impression. Nothing wrong with you not enjoying the Dordogne, as there was nothing wrong with me not enjoying Provence as much as I thought I would. I was really scratching my head after my visit: what did everyone else see in this region?
I do feel bad for both of us though that I think we missed something with each of these regions that others love. Thanks for your honesty.
Jul 23rd, 2013, 03:09 AM
#7
"Millau Aquaduct" ooops, I think its a bridge ;-)
Did you visit the visitors centre they have a fresco that identified all the Engineers who contributed the fundamental technology that allowed it to be built over the years.
So of course only French Engineers are mentioned as the modern world is built only on French Engineering (eehm). Mrs Bilbo and I (both Engineers) had a great time identifying the other Europeans, Americans etc who might have been up there instead of les Francais.
Even at the opening ceremony they had four people opening it, three French men and one other guy they kept pushing to the back of the shots. (the architect, born in Italy and raised British)
Did you visit the visitors centre they have a fresco that identified all the Engineers who contributed the fundamental technology that allowed it to be built over the years.
So of course only French Engineers are mentioned as the modern world is built only on French Engineering (eehm). Mrs Bilbo and I (both Engineers) had a great time identifying the other Europeans, Americans etc who might have been up there instead of les Francais.
Even at the opening ceremony they had four people opening it, three French men and one other guy they kept pushing to the back of the shots. (the architect, born in Italy and raised British)
Jul 23rd, 2013, 03:23 AM
#8
Join Date: Dec 2006
Posts: 23,117
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
> I wasn't keen on L'Esplanade (though the restaurant was good) and wouldn't recommend it - though we ran into an American couple who were also staying there and kept saying "isn't it incredible?". They felt they were "off the beaten track"
Although American, I wouldn't call L'Esplanade "off the beaten track", but my room - which had views in just about every direction (because of the placement of windows and mirrors) was pretty incredible!
Thanks for posting, welltraveledbrit!
You might consider clicking on one of the triangles to the right side of a message to send a message to an editor and ask to flag this thread as a trip report.
Although American, I wouldn't call L'Esplanade "off the beaten track", but my room - which had views in just about every direction (because of the placement of windows and mirrors) was pretty incredible!
Thanks for posting, welltraveledbrit!
You might consider clicking on one of the triangles to the right side of a message to send a message to an editor and ask to flag this thread as a trip report.
Jul 23rd, 2013, 04:27 AM
#10
Join Date: Sep 2006
Posts: 1,754
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Your pictures are stunning.
We are going to the Dordogne for the first time next June. We'll be travelling with 3 generations and there looks to be so much for everyone to enjoy. I think I timed our travels to miss the beginning of the summer holiday for most of Europe and even a lot of the US (3rd week of June) so I'm not too worried about crowds. We've rented a gite so won't have to contend with a hotel stay.
We are going to the Dordogne for the first time next June. We'll be travelling with 3 generations and there looks to be so much for everyone to enjoy. I think I timed our travels to miss the beginning of the summer holiday for most of Europe and even a lot of the US (3rd week of June) so I'm not too worried about crowds. We've rented a gite so won't have to contend with a hotel stay.
Jul 23rd, 2013, 07:35 AM
#11
So much to seeExcellent photos and report
I understand what you mean about the crowds in The Dordogne
We thoroughly enjoyed our visit last Sept. but the crowds did get to us from time to time so we tried to find places off on our own.
Your sections on Estaing and Conques were quite interesting. Your photo of the terrace with the wisteria made me want to be there.
<<<It's great that different things speak to different people>>>
Your summary about different opinions was perfect.
Jul 23rd, 2013, 09:24 AM
#12
Original Poster
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 2,552
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
So glad you enjoyed the trip report and thanks so much for the responses. I'm glad to know that you liked the blog as I spend far too much time on it 
.
Kja you're right I failed to flag it is a trip report and will try to get it reassigned!
Michele-d I agree first impressions can be key.
Bilboburgler - You're entirely right, my mistake. I meant the Millau Viaduct and the Pont du Gard Aquaduct! What a magnificent site for a couple of engineers. We did stop and have a quick look at the visitor's center, I can't believe they pushed Norman Foster to the back of the shots?!!
Travegirlmq - A gite sounds perfect I think we would have enjoyed the area far more if we'd travelled this way and if the weather had cooperated and we'd be able to do more walking. It is an area where you'll find enough to interest three generation.
TPAYT - The terrace with the wisteria in Conque was extraordinary. After the dull cold Spring we'd had in Europe I was so thrilled to see it! We'd been away from home for almost five months and one of the nicest things about our home is wisteria that blooms on the front porch in the Spring. I sat under it in Conque, smelling that heady familiar smell, drank a cup of tea and felt completely at home.
.Kja you're right I failed to flag it is a trip report and will try to get it reassigned!
Michele-d I agree first impressions can be key.
Bilboburgler - You're entirely right, my mistake. I meant the Millau Viaduct and the Pont du Gard Aquaduct! What a magnificent site for a couple of engineers. We did stop and have a quick look at the visitor's center, I can't believe they pushed Norman Foster to the back of the shots?!!
Travegirlmq - A gite sounds perfect I think we would have enjoyed the area far more if we'd travelled this way and if the weather had cooperated and we'd be able to do more walking. It is an area where you'll find enough to interest three generation.
TPAYT - The terrace with the wisteria in Conque was extraordinary. After the dull cold Spring we'd had in Europe I was so thrilled to see it! We'd been away from home for almost five months and one of the nicest things about our home is wisteria that blooms on the front porch in the Spring. I sat under it in Conque, smelling that heady familiar smell, drank a cup of tea and felt completely at home.
Jul 23rd, 2013, 10:17 AM
#13
I like the Dordogne, but I have never found out why certain people find it so incredibly outstanding. They are probably doing a disservice to casual visitors who are expecting to be overwhelmed with ecstasy when in fact it is merely yet another pleasant place to visit in France.
Jul 23rd, 2013, 10:32 AM
#15
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 412
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Lovely photos, WTB. I was happy to see that you did not mention there being an abundance of flies in the Aveyron. Schnauzer reported that she encountered numerous flies when she was there the end of June. Did you notice this?
We leave for our trip to France in 6 weeks, visiting Conques and Estaing among other places. Also, we will return to the Dordogne. Last time we were there, the weather was superb and there were no crowds to speak of.
Thanks for posting your TR.
We leave for our trip to France in 6 weeks, visiting Conques and Estaing among other places. Also, we will return to the Dordogne. Last time we were there, the weather was superb and there were no crowds to speak of.
Thanks for posting your TR.
Jul 23rd, 2013, 01:03 PM
#16
Original Poster
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 2,552
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Elizabeth-S
The blog is a standard blogger template using magazine style format, you can see the blog in various other formats by changing the tab on the far left. Before I changed the format last year I'd customized some of the buttons and that came along when I changed to the magazine style format. I like Blogger because it's free, intuitive and easy to use - even if you're not technical. Anyone I know with a professional website tends towards Wordpress but I wanted something with a low barrier to entry!
Kansas - we didn't notice flies but the Aveyron is a large area! I hope you enjoy Estaing and Conques.
Kerouac - overwhelmed with ecstasy is a high bar!
The blog is a standard blogger template using magazine style format, you can see the blog in various other formats by changing the tab on the far left. Before I changed the format last year I'd customized some of the buttons and that came along when I changed to the magazine style format. I like Blogger because it's free, intuitive and easy to use - even if you're not technical. Anyone I know with a professional website tends towards Wordpress but I wanted something with a low barrier to entry!
Kansas - we didn't notice flies but the Aveyron is a large area! I hope you enjoy Estaing and Conques.
Kerouac - overwhelmed with ecstasy is a high bar!
Jul 26th, 2013, 08:15 AM
#17
Original Poster
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 2,552
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Here's something I can rave about!
We took a wonderful walk around Turenne. It was a varied walk through woodlands, small tracks and farmland. We've found that the tourist offices in France often have small guides laying out walks in their area. It's great to get out and see the place on foot. The minute you get out of town, on foot, the crowds melt away. I liked this walk because it was quite varied, reasonably marked and not too long! Anyway in case you're interested you can follow along. One of my favorite posts in a while....
http://somuchmoretosee.blogspot.com/...m-turenne.html
We took a wonderful walk around Turenne. It was a varied walk through woodlands, small tracks and farmland. We've found that the tourist offices in France often have small guides laying out walks in their area. It's great to get out and see the place on foot. The minute you get out of town, on foot, the crowds melt away. I liked this walk because it was quite varied, reasonably marked and not too long! Anyway in case you're interested you can follow along. One of my favorite posts in a while....
http://somuchmoretosee.blogspot.com/...m-turenne.html
Jul 27th, 2013, 07:21 AM
#18
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 17
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
First I think you meant Millau Viaduct (yes, it was designed by a British architect!!!).
I think Rocamadour - you decided not to stop there - is one of the most impressive villages in the South west of France - a village built in storeys! Just the sight of the sword of Roland stuck in the wall of the church(well I know that it is actually a replica but lets not get in the way of a good story) makes you dream of the times of Charlemagne and medieval heroes.
http://southweststory.com/tourist-at...-of-rocamadour
Carla
I think Rocamadour - you decided not to stop there - is one of the most impressive villages in the South west of France - a village built in storeys! Just the sight of the sword of Roland stuck in the wall of the church(well I know that it is actually a replica but lets not get in the way of a good story) makes you dream of the times of Charlemagne and medieval heroes.
http://southweststory.com/tourist-at...-of-rocamadour
Carla
Jul 27th, 2013, 08:58 AM
#19
Join Date: Apr 2005
Posts: 331
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
We did a walking trip in the Dordogne with HF Holidays, an English roamers group, 15 years ago, and it has been one of the high points of our trips to France. Walking is a wonderful way to see the area, but because of the hilltop towns you have to be in reasonably good shape. You can find HF on Google if interested.
Joe
Joe
Jul 27th, 2013, 10:22 AM
#20
Hi, well -travelled, DH and I have been to the Dordogne twice, once many years ago by ourselves and then about 10 years ago with our kids.
I can say that we liked it a lot more the 2nd time - it's a great area to visit with kids as there is so much to do that they enjoy, though we did inflict some more grown-up activities upon the kids as well.
I think that the time of year helped too - we went in the UK school hols when there was a late Easter so it wasn't too warm and there were few crowds.
I can say that we liked it a lot more the 2nd time - it's a great area to visit with kids as there is so much to do that they enjoy, though we did inflict some more grown-up activities upon the kids as well.
I think that the time of year helped too - we went in the UK school hols when there was a late Easter so it wasn't too warm and there were few crowds.
