The big Alps hiking thread
#21


Joined: Jan 2003
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For what it's worth, I just added up the cost of apartments we've booked for our 28 night stay in Switzerland in Sept/Oct, and it averages out to USD $135 a night, which is roughly 130 chf per night. These are for nice units with full kitchens, a few with two bedrooms, most with balconies...some in a few off-the-beaten path areas. We also have five nights in Chiavenna, Italy, which isn't included in that amount.
These days we buy the Half Fare Card and just pick and choose which cable cars we want to take. These apartments were all booked back in March, and I definitely noticed an increase in prices since our month long visit in Sept/Oct 2021.
These days we buy the Half Fare Card and just pick and choose which cable cars we want to take. These apartments were all booked back in March, and I definitely noticed an increase in prices since our month long visit in Sept/Oct 2021.
#22

Joined: Jan 2003
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A quick search of 2- to 4-star hotels in St. Moritz came up with quite a few from 104 (Petit Steffani) over 131 (Cervus) to 145 (Soldanella) e.g. for a single room. No idea if all of them offer the Engadin Card. But that's certainly no rate that any Swiss people would call "High End". Btw, I often booked through travel agencies like Tui or Neckermann and got much lower rates than posted by the hotels on their websites. A quick search on tui.com and I found Hotel Laudinella and Reine Victoria (4 star) for 327 resp. 312 Euro (1 night free if you stay a week) for three nights incl. breakfast and Engadin Card in a single room in late September. Europa (4 star) in St. Moritz-Champfer for 329 Euro incl. Engadin Card (659 for a week). Cervo in Sils for 386 incl. half board (balcony, but no Engadin Card I think).
I doubt you would enjoy sitting on the balcony in the (late) afternoon after your hike, sipping a beer - it gets cold very quickly later in the day in the Upper Engadin. Remember it is at 1800 m elevation. And due to the special topography of the valley the temperatures at night are much colder than you might expect (cold air flowing down from the mountains and accumulating at the valley floor).
In the Lower Engadin you get a guest card that covers public transportation, too. But it differs depending on where exactly you stay. The card in Scuol e.g. includes the gondola Motta Naluns also. And some hotels offer a "plus" version which includes bus trips to the Müstair valley, Nauders and Mals.
No idea how important the cable cars are for you. If not so much and you stay in an apartment in the Upper Engadin, then the Graubünden pass is also an option. www.graubuendenpass.ch
I doubt you would enjoy sitting on the balcony in the (late) afternoon after your hike, sipping a beer - it gets cold very quickly later in the day in the Upper Engadin. Remember it is at 1800 m elevation. And due to the special topography of the valley the temperatures at night are much colder than you might expect (cold air flowing down from the mountains and accumulating at the valley floor).
In the Lower Engadin you get a guest card that covers public transportation, too. But it differs depending on where exactly you stay. The card in Scuol e.g. includes the gondola Motta Naluns also. And some hotels offer a "plus" version which includes bus trips to the Müstair valley, Nauders and Mals.
No idea how important the cable cars are for you. If not so much and you stay in an apartment in the Upper Engadin, then the Graubünden pass is also an option. www.graubuendenpass.ch
#23


Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 21,146
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It's never too cold for a beverage on the balcony

Our balcony in Scuol, October 2019

Our patio in Zuoz, December 2018
Ingo - good to know that the Lower Engadine has gotten on board with the transport cards!


Our balcony in Scuol, October 2019

Our patio in Zuoz, December 2018
Ingo - good to know that the Lower Engadine has gotten on board with the transport cards!
Last edited by Melnq8; Aug 20th, 2022 at 02:13 PM.
#24
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Joined: Feb 2020
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I had the same problem when I last looked for apartments in St Mortiz - couldn't find one of a decent size with a balcony and a kitchen one could actually cook in, just a lot of basic studios with little afterthought type kitchens, if you know what I mean. I'm sure they exist, but not at a price I'm willing to pay.
Perhaps I missed it, but what time of year are you planning to go? The Engadine card that comes with hotel stays is valid May-October, although I see they now offer one for sale that is good 365 days a year...for a mere 1,160 chf!
Perhaps I missed it, but what time of year are you planning to go? The Engadine card that comes with hotel stays is valid May-October, although I see they now offer one for sale that is good 365 days a year...for a mere 1,160 chf!
#25
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Joined: Feb 2020
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A quick search of 2- to 4-star hotels in St. Moritz came up with quite a few from 104 (Petit Steffani) over 131 (Cervus) to 145 (Soldanella) e.g. for a single room. No idea if all of them offer the Engadin Card. But that's certainly no rate that any Swiss people would call "High End". Btw, I often booked through travel agencies like Tui or Neckermann and got much lower rates than posted by the hotels on their websites. A quick search on tui.com and I found Hotel Laudinella and Reine Victoria (4 star) for 327 resp. 312 Euro (1 night free if you stay a week) for three nights incl. breakfast and Engadin Card in a single room in late September. Europa (4 star) in St. Moritz-Champfer for 329 Euro incl. Engadin Card (659 for a week). Cervo in Sils for 386 incl. half board (balcony, but no Engadin Card I think).
I doubt you would enjoy sitting on the balcony in the (late) afternoon after your hike, sipping a beer - it gets cold very quickly later in the day in the Upper Engadin. Remember it is at 1800 m elevation. And due to the special topography of the valley the temperatures at night are much colder than you might expect (cold air flowing down from the mountains and accumulating at the valley floor).
No idea how important the cable cars are for you. If not so much and you stay in an apartment in the Upper Engadin, then the Graubünden pass is also an option. www.graubuendenpass.ch
I doubt you would enjoy sitting on the balcony in the (late) afternoon after your hike, sipping a beer - it gets cold very quickly later in the day in the Upper Engadin. Remember it is at 1800 m elevation. And due to the special topography of the valley the temperatures at night are much colder than you might expect (cold air flowing down from the mountains and accumulating at the valley floor).
No idea how important the cable cars are for you. If not so much and you stay in an apartment in the Upper Engadin, then the Graubünden pass is also an option. www.graubuendenpass.ch
I will remember to check pages like tui.com if I plan to go there next year. Usually I only use booking.com, but that is mainly for mapping alternatives.Cable cars are actually not that important when one lives as high as 1800m. From there it's no problem to start the hike for a 3000m peak. 1200-1500m height difference for the hikeable peaks along the Upper Engadin is really no problem. And balcony is still okay, I am really warm blooded. I can tolerate low temperatures and don't need as high temperatures as the majority of the popultion to be comfortable. And I almost always travel to the high Alps in the warmest season, like July. Earlier or later I usually go to other places or lower altitudes. This year I've booked a trip to Lago di Garda for late September.
Btw, found a nice 3* hotel in Sils for something like 110-120 CHF per night for a week or longer stay. That is one of the better deals I've seen after checking at least a couple of dozen hotels in and the area around St.Moritz.
Last edited by OlavE; Aug 20th, 2022 at 02:58 PM.
#26

Joined: Jan 2003
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Mel - LOL, you're right, with a prosecco not ;-)
No, Petit Steffani is not the same as Hotel Steffani. A dependancy with lower standard than the 4star main hotel. Btw, rates in Zermatt e.g. are similar, if not higher than in St. Moritz and you did not call it "high end". Somehow this sounds wrong to me.
Sils is my favourite village in the Upper Engadine, but keep in mind that it is a bit inconvenient for anything around Bernina pass - it's located at the other end of the valley and only served by bus, not train, so requires at least one change and more time to get there and back. Pontresina is ideally located in that regard IMO. A recommendation is Hotel Engadinerhof (engadinerhof.com) - charming, historic, good food, a broad selection of rooms from bathroom on the floor, not renovated, to recently renovated Suite. Check out their weekly arrangements with half board and some more stuff included. No balcony, I am afraid
But we had a room with bathroom, not renovated, on the uppermost floor with French balcony and mountain view - perfect.
No, Petit Steffani is not the same as Hotel Steffani. A dependancy with lower standard than the 4star main hotel. Btw, rates in Zermatt e.g. are similar, if not higher than in St. Moritz and you did not call it "high end". Somehow this sounds wrong to me.
Sils is my favourite village in the Upper Engadine, but keep in mind that it is a bit inconvenient for anything around Bernina pass - it's located at the other end of the valley and only served by bus, not train, so requires at least one change and more time to get there and back. Pontresina is ideally located in that regard IMO. A recommendation is Hotel Engadinerhof (engadinerhof.com) - charming, historic, good food, a broad selection of rooms from bathroom on the floor, not renovated, to recently renovated Suite. Check out their weekly arrangements with half board and some more stuff included. No balcony, I am afraid
But we had a room with bathroom, not renovated, on the uppermost floor with French balcony and mountain view - perfect.
#27
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Joined: Feb 2020
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So, the trip for this summer is booked. I contemplated about Aosta (Cogne and Gressoney or Champoluc) vs Switzerland (mainly Engadin). And ended up with the latter with some additional hiking in Switzerland. The itinerary looks like this:
Day 1: Fly to Zürich, spend the night in Brig.
Day 2: Train and bus to Bourg-Saint-Pierre. Start hiking the Tour of Combins (https://www.outdooractive.com/en/rou...44133868/#dm=1)
Day 3-6: Hiking the Tour of Combins
Day 6: Bus and train back to Brig.
Day 7: Train from Brig to St.Moritz, the "Glacier Express".
Day 8-13: Stay in St.Moritz and do day hikes.
Day 14: Flight back from Zürich to Norway.
Looking forward to the 5-day hike on Tour des Combins. Several of the other multi day hikes in Switzerland goes just as much from village to village as hut to hut. This tour seems like a great option to get away from the resorts and villages and do some true high altitude and hut-to-hut hiking. And in St.Moritz I've decided to splash some bucks and stay at a bit more exclusive hotel with a great view to the St.Moritz lake. First time doing something like that!
Day 1: Fly to Zürich, spend the night in Brig.
Day 2: Train and bus to Bourg-Saint-Pierre. Start hiking the Tour of Combins (https://www.outdooractive.com/en/rou...44133868/#dm=1)
Day 3-6: Hiking the Tour of Combins
Day 6: Bus and train back to Brig.
Day 7: Train from Brig to St.Moritz, the "Glacier Express".
Day 8-13: Stay in St.Moritz and do day hikes.
Day 14: Flight back from Zürich to Norway.
Looking forward to the 5-day hike on Tour des Combins. Several of the other multi day hikes in Switzerland goes just as much from village to village as hut to hut. This tour seems like a great option to get away from the resorts and villages and do some true high altitude and hut-to-hut hiking. And in St.Moritz I've decided to splash some bucks and stay at a bit more exclusive hotel with a great view to the St.Moritz lake. First time doing something like that!
#28

Joined: Mar 2013
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There is no need to sleep at Brig. Yo could take a train from ZRH to Visp and a connecting train from there to Martigny, much closesr to Bourg St-Pierre.
Trains every 30 - 60 minutes.
Last train to Martigny: ZRH dp 17.45 - Martigny ar 20.47 (- Orsieres ar 22.19.
Last train to Bourg St-Pierre: ZRH dp 15.48 - Bourg St-Pierre ar 20.07.
The Gd St-Bernard - Bourg St-Bernard leg isn't paricularly scenic. You may take the Orsieres bound bus as well.
Trains every 30 - 60 minutes.
Last train to Martigny: ZRH dp 17.45 - Martigny ar 20.47 (- Orsieres ar 22.19.
Last train to Bourg St-Pierre: ZRH dp 15.48 - Bourg St-Pierre ar 20.07.
The Gd St-Bernard - Bourg St-Bernard leg isn't paricularly scenic. You may take the Orsieres bound bus as well.
#29
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Joined: Feb 2020
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There is no need to sleep at Brig. Yo could take a train from ZRH to Visp and a connecting train from there to Martigny, much closesr to Bourg St-Pierre.
Trains every 30 - 60 minutes.
Last train to Martigny: ZRH dp 17.45 - Martigny ar 20.47 (- Orsieres ar 22.19.
Last train to Bourg St-Pierre: ZRH dp 15.48 - Bourg St-Pierre ar 20.07.
The Gd St-Bernard - Bourg St-Bernard leg isn't paricularly scenic. You may take the Orsieres bound bus as well.
Trains every 30 - 60 minutes.
Last train to Martigny: ZRH dp 17.45 - Martigny ar 20.47 (- Orsieres ar 22.19.
Last train to Bourg St-Pierre: ZRH dp 15.48 - Bourg St-Pierre ar 20.07.
The Gd St-Bernard - Bourg St-Bernard leg isn't paricularly scenic. You may take the Orsieres bound bus as well.
#30

Joined: Mar 2013
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Thanks for the feedback. I know the problem. More and more family run hotels where the owner sleeps in the house and wait for his guests if planes or trains are late disappear in favour of more anonymous structures with fixed check in times.
#31
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Joined: Feb 2020
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Second trip for 2023 booked. 9 days in the Dolomites in early september. Mostly hiking but also road cycling.
Base in Corvara in Badia, which btw is excellent in terms of value for money. Several nice B&Bs which offer cheap (and hopefully good) accomandation if you're satisfied with a clean room, bed, shower and good breakfast and don't expect to many other offers.
Base in Corvara in Badia, which btw is excellent in terms of value for money. Several nice B&Bs which offer cheap (and hopefully good) accomandation if you're satisfied with a clean room, bed, shower and good breakfast and don't expect to many other offers.
#33
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Joined: Feb 2020
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Thx. I have been considering this for several years, but poor flight connections from where I live in Norway has been a deterrent. Now I go anyway (via Munich) by taking a very early plane forth and a late one back, and "gamble" that my trains and buses aren't too much delayed. Val Badia seems like a great place for hiking and cycling, and it's also (along with Sölden and a couple of other places in Austria) the cheapest base I've found for high level Alpine hiking. Switzerland is expensive or even very expensive, Chamonix is also fairly expensive while Aosta valley is also generally more expensive than the Dolomites. Especially Badia have several cheap B&Bs that are excellent for the types of Alps vacation I usually do.
#35
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Joined: Feb 2020
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Okay. Back from almost two weeks in the Alps. A short summary of my trip.
The first half was a 5 day hut-to-hut hike along Tour des Combins. Great trek. Had good weather the whole time, there were relativiely few people on the trails and the view was partially amazing. I stayed at the huts of Mille, Panossiere, Chanrion in Switzerland and Champillon in Italy. The Panossiere hut, just at the Corbassiere Glacier, and with a fantastic view towards Grand Combin was the definitive highlight of the trek. The most boring part was over 10k along a gravel road towards Champillon in Italy. Very long way around the whole valley after descending from the Fenetre de Durand pass at the Swiss/Italian border. Finished the trek at the top of the Grand St.Bernard pass and took the bus down to Martigny.
From here I continued to St.Moritz with the Glacier Express. A nice trip, but a bit pricey. I stayed in Engadin for 6 days. The first day the weather was pretty average, so I just did an easy hike around a couple of the lakes in the valley. The following days I hiked to three 3000m peaks. Piz Nair, Piz Languard and Munt Pers in addition to a couple of other hikes. Both Languard and Munt Pers was great hikes, and so was a long hike from Pontresina up Val Roseg to Lej da Vadret and back over the mountain to Fuorcla Surlej where I took the cable car back down.
St. Moritz itself wasn't very charming, but convinient using public transportation. Sils was probably the nicest village in Engain (I didn't venture below Samedan), and if I had a car I would stay there next time. Pontresina is also okay, especially since the best hikes and bike rides IMO is south of Engadin towards the Bernina and the Italian border and not north of the valley. But if you up in the mountains almost the whole day also St.Moritz and Samedan works due to being hubs for public transportation.
The first half was a 5 day hut-to-hut hike along Tour des Combins. Great trek. Had good weather the whole time, there were relativiely few people on the trails and the view was partially amazing. I stayed at the huts of Mille, Panossiere, Chanrion in Switzerland and Champillon in Italy. The Panossiere hut, just at the Corbassiere Glacier, and with a fantastic view towards Grand Combin was the definitive highlight of the trek. The most boring part was over 10k along a gravel road towards Champillon in Italy. Very long way around the whole valley after descending from the Fenetre de Durand pass at the Swiss/Italian border. Finished the trek at the top of the Grand St.Bernard pass and took the bus down to Martigny.
From here I continued to St.Moritz with the Glacier Express. A nice trip, but a bit pricey. I stayed in Engadin for 6 days. The first day the weather was pretty average, so I just did an easy hike around a couple of the lakes in the valley. The following days I hiked to three 3000m peaks. Piz Nair, Piz Languard and Munt Pers in addition to a couple of other hikes. Both Languard and Munt Pers was great hikes, and so was a long hike from Pontresina up Val Roseg to Lej da Vadret and back over the mountain to Fuorcla Surlej where I took the cable car back down.
St. Moritz itself wasn't very charming, but convinient using public transportation. Sils was probably the nicest village in Engain (I didn't venture below Samedan), and if I had a car I would stay there next time. Pontresina is also okay, especially since the best hikes and bike rides IMO is south of Engadin towards the Bernina and the Italian border and not north of the valley. But if you up in the mountains almost the whole day also St.Moritz and Samedan works due to being hubs for public transportation.
#37

Joined: Mar 2013
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There is a much nicer trail above the gravel road, via Porchere and Pleytau and then all along the Ru de By water channel.
From there it's nicer to reach Switzerland through the Menouve Valley, to cross the border at Col de Menouve and to go down to Bourg St-Bernard bus station.
From there it's nicer to reach Switzerland through the Menouve Valley, to cross the border at Col de Menouve and to go down to Bourg St-Bernard bus station.
#38
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Joined: Feb 2020
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I am considering a hike for next summer, and would appreciate suggestions. In 2022 I did Tour of Matterhorn, in 2023 Tour des Combins. What to do in 2024?
Premise: A hike for about one week and preferably circular since it would ease logistics. The "normal" route could be longer than a week, but then it should be possible to take short-cuts or use gondolas or buses to shorten the route. An example would be Tour of Mont Blanc which is 160 km and normally 10-11 days, but where it would be easy to do a shorter version (ToMB is btw not an option because of the crowds).
So far I have found the Ortler high trail in the Orler National Park in Italy. Other suggestion? Italy or France would be preferable because Switzerland is awfully expensive.
Premise: A hike for about one week and preferably circular since it would ease logistics. The "normal" route could be longer than a week, but then it should be possible to take short-cuts or use gondolas or buses to shorten the route. An example would be Tour of Mont Blanc which is 160 km and normally 10-11 days, but where it would be easy to do a shorter version (ToMB is btw not an option because of the crowds).
So far I have found the Ortler high trail in the Orler National Park in Italy. Other suggestion? Italy or France would be preferable because Switzerland is awfully expensive.
#39
Joined: Jun 2024
Posts: 3
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Which is the best city to fly into from Vienna?
thank you so much for this AMAZING information. I’ll be on my own for days. I’d like to fly in from Vienna, get to a cute Alpine village, hike for a couple days, and then fly out to Paris. I’m a medium hiker. Love cable cars and the like. Prefer not to be in super crowded places. Where would you recommend I fly in? I won’t be renting a car. Thank you soooo much!!!
The last decade I've been a dozen times hiking in the Alps and in 10 different villages/regions, and I've done extensive research on several other places. I therefore want to share some of my experiences and give some advice (or recieve some) regarding hiking in this fantastic region. Since I'm most about hiking, I will also focus on that, and not just taking the gondola up the mountains to enjoy the views. I will give advice both for good places for medium level hiking (let's say typically 600-800 height meters a day) and high level hiking (1000+ meters a day), which is what I do. In addition to hiking opportunities, I will also make recommondations based on views and scenery, both from the village and higher up in the mountains, price level, accessability with public transport and how crowded and touristy the area is. Below and in the following posts, I summarize some of what I've experinced, what I've found out through research and list some pros and cons for different places and areas.
"The big 3" - Zermatt, Chamonix and Berner Oberland (Grindelwald, Wengen and Mürren)
I've nicknamed these three places/areas as the "big 3" since these are IMO the most popular, the most touristy, probably the most renowned and also possibly the most spectaular areas in the Alps. I've been both to Chamonix and two times in Zermatt, but not to Berner Oberland yet. All these areas have in common spectacular scenery and views to some of the highest and most faomus mountains in the Alps. Mont Blanc for Chamonix, Matterhorn for Zermatt and Jungfrau/Eiger/Mönch for Berner Oberland. These villages probably have the most spectacular views from the village, and are also some of the few places in the Alps where you get good glacier views directly from the village itself, and it gets even better up in the mountains.
Since they are very popular, there is also a lot of people, and especially Zermatt feels fairly crowed since it's pretty crammed in between the mountains. Chamonix is also touristy, but the area on the valley floor is bigger, so it felt a bit less crowded. All places have good infrastructure to get around, buy buses/trains and gondolas/cable cars, and you will get high into the mountains. One big negative aspect, if your not loaded with money, is that these are the only places I've been to in the Alps where all the cable cars and gondolas cost money, and are not included in the guest card for the area. The gondolas in Chamonix are fairly expensive, but the two places in Switzerland are REALLY expensive, although use of the Swiss Travel Pass would reduce the cost. For hiking I found Chamonix good, but not great for high level hiking. Zermatt on the other hand is great for all levels, and especially the hikes on the vest side of the valley where there are none gondolas or furniculars, very just really good. The 1800 height meter hike to Mettelhorn is one of the best I've ever done.
+ Great views the whole time, even from the village. Not been in Berner Oberland and Mürren, but from pictures the views from that village seems absolutely stunning.
+ Extensive hiking network, especially for medium level hikes. Chamonix and Berner Oberland are though not the best for high level hikes.
+ Especially Chamonix is really accessible, probably the place in the high Alps closest to a bigger airport with public transport.
+ Zermatt and surrounding usually have very good weather, better than further north (Berner Oberland) and east (Austria).
- Crowded and touristy. The village Zermatt is quiet charming, but the number of people are just really high.
- Expensive, especially Zermatt and Berner Oberland. A week or more with hiking here, staying in a decent hotel, eating out and using cable cars/gondolas each day, will cost you a lot.
Graubünden - Davos and St.Moritz/Engadin
I've spent a week in Davos, but not been in Engadin so far. That is one of my top alternatives for next summer. Davos is basically a small town in the mountains, not very charming. But it has a good range of accomondation, and is cheaper than Zermatt and Berner Oberland. The area is fairly accessible with train from Zurich, above the same time as the other mentioned places in Switzerland. Also, the guest card gives you an unlimited number of tours with cable cars and gondolas, which is great especially if you do downhill cycling. It will also save you a lot of money for hiking, since you usually want to get a bit higher up in the mountain than the village. Davos, although not very charming, offers very good multi sports opportunities and are also a good area for both medium and high level hiking.
+ Less expensive, at least Davos, and all cable cars and gondolas are included in the guest card.
+ Davos is a very good area for multi sport activities, hiking, cycling both road and MTB, etc.,
+ Engadin seems to have a very good choice of hikes, possibly one of the very best places in the Alps both for medium and high level hikes.
+ Engadin has good glacier views just south of the valley, but not from the villages itself. Engadin valley is also the highest lying valley in Europe with a certain population, and it's length and size is an attraction in itself.
- Davos is not very charming, and there is also little glacier views from the surrounding mountains.
- St-Moritz is a high end resort, both expensive and (as far as I understand) visited by not the most typical hiking or sports enthusiasts. But quite possibly good opportunities to stay in the other villages in the vally.
Rest of Valais - Val d'Anniviers and Saastal
My trips in Valais also brought me to the neighbouring valleys to Mattertal where Zermatt lies. In Val d'Anniviers, I've stayed in several places and I spent some days in Saastal this summer, hiking in the mountains there. And since these areas are also lying just by some of the 4000m peaks in the Alps, the views are great and the hiking opportunities likewise. And also since the big crowds go to Zermatt, these villages are significantly less populated by tourists. Expecially Zinal seemed like a quiet place, only with a handful of hotels, where Zermatt have dozens. Saastal and Saas-Fee have more tourists, but also offer some great views and some of the best high level hiking in the Alps. I stayed in Saas Grund where I found a fairly cheap pension, but it was on short notice and next time I will certainly stay in Saas-Fee.
+ Grimentz is probably the most charming of the Swiss alpine villages because of the old wooden housing.
+ Both valleys have very good selection of hikes. Especially Saastall offers some great high level hikes to peaks, passes and huts above 3000m.
+ Great glacier views from Saas Fee. Almost on par with Chamonix and Zermatt.
+ Especially Zinal and Grimentz, but also Saastal are A LOT less touristy and crowded than Mattertal and Zermatt.
+ Less expensive than Zermatt and Berner Oberland. In both valleys cable cars are included in the guest card.
+ As for Zermatt, the weather is generally good.
- It's actually difficult to find negative things about these places. It is possibly not THAT spectacular as the places mentioned above, but that's marginal. And you don't get glacier views from Zinal and Grimentz, but have to go further into the mountains.
Tomorrow, I will cover Austria and Italy.
"The big 3" - Zermatt, Chamonix and Berner Oberland (Grindelwald, Wengen and Mürren)
I've nicknamed these three places/areas as the "big 3" since these are IMO the most popular, the most touristy, probably the most renowned and also possibly the most spectaular areas in the Alps. I've been both to Chamonix and two times in Zermatt, but not to Berner Oberland yet. All these areas have in common spectacular scenery and views to some of the highest and most faomus mountains in the Alps. Mont Blanc for Chamonix, Matterhorn for Zermatt and Jungfrau/Eiger/Mönch for Berner Oberland. These villages probably have the most spectacular views from the village, and are also some of the few places in the Alps where you get good glacier views directly from the village itself, and it gets even better up in the mountains.
Since they are very popular, there is also a lot of people, and especially Zermatt feels fairly crowed since it's pretty crammed in between the mountains. Chamonix is also touristy, but the area on the valley floor is bigger, so it felt a bit less crowded. All places have good infrastructure to get around, buy buses/trains and gondolas/cable cars, and you will get high into the mountains. One big negative aspect, if your not loaded with money, is that these are the only places I've been to in the Alps where all the cable cars and gondolas cost money, and are not included in the guest card for the area. The gondolas in Chamonix are fairly expensive, but the two places in Switzerland are REALLY expensive, although use of the Swiss Travel Pass would reduce the cost. For hiking I found Chamonix good, but not great for high level hiking. Zermatt on the other hand is great for all levels, and especially the hikes on the vest side of the valley where there are none gondolas or furniculars, very just really good. The 1800 height meter hike to Mettelhorn is one of the best I've ever done.
+ Great views the whole time, even from the village. Not been in Berner Oberland and Mürren, but from pictures the views from that village seems absolutely stunning.
+ Extensive hiking network, especially for medium level hikes. Chamonix and Berner Oberland are though not the best for high level hikes.
+ Especially Chamonix is really accessible, probably the place in the high Alps closest to a bigger airport with public transport.
+ Zermatt and surrounding usually have very good weather, better than further north (Berner Oberland) and east (Austria).
- Crowded and touristy. The village Zermatt is quiet charming, but the number of people are just really high.
- Expensive, especially Zermatt and Berner Oberland. A week or more with hiking here, staying in a decent hotel, eating out and using cable cars/gondolas each day, will cost you a lot.
Graubünden - Davos and St.Moritz/Engadin
I've spent a week in Davos, but not been in Engadin so far. That is one of my top alternatives for next summer. Davos is basically a small town in the mountains, not very charming. But it has a good range of accomondation, and is cheaper than Zermatt and Berner Oberland. The area is fairly accessible with train from Zurich, above the same time as the other mentioned places in Switzerland. Also, the guest card gives you an unlimited number of tours with cable cars and gondolas, which is great especially if you do downhill cycling. It will also save you a lot of money for hiking, since you usually want to get a bit higher up in the mountain than the village. Davos, although not very charming, offers very good multi sports opportunities and are also a good area for both medium and high level hiking.
+ Less expensive, at least Davos, and all cable cars and gondolas are included in the guest card.
+ Davos is a very good area for multi sport activities, hiking, cycling both road and MTB, etc.,
+ Engadin seems to have a very good choice of hikes, possibly one of the very best places in the Alps both for medium and high level hikes.
+ Engadin has good glacier views just south of the valley, but not from the villages itself. Engadin valley is also the highest lying valley in Europe with a certain population, and it's length and size is an attraction in itself.
- Davos is not very charming, and there is also little glacier views from the surrounding mountains.
- St-Moritz is a high end resort, both expensive and (as far as I understand) visited by not the most typical hiking or sports enthusiasts. But quite possibly good opportunities to stay in the other villages in the vally.
Rest of Valais - Val d'Anniviers and Saastal
My trips in Valais also brought me to the neighbouring valleys to Mattertal where Zermatt lies. In Val d'Anniviers, I've stayed in several places and I spent some days in Saastal this summer, hiking in the mountains there. And since these areas are also lying just by some of the 4000m peaks in the Alps, the views are great and the hiking opportunities likewise. And also since the big crowds go to Zermatt, these villages are significantly less populated by tourists. Expecially Zinal seemed like a quiet place, only with a handful of hotels, where Zermatt have dozens. Saastal and Saas-Fee have more tourists, but also offer some great views and some of the best high level hiking in the Alps. I stayed in Saas Grund where I found a fairly cheap pension, but it was on short notice and next time I will certainly stay in Saas-Fee.
+ Grimentz is probably the most charming of the Swiss alpine villages because of the old wooden housing.
+ Both valleys have very good selection of hikes. Especially Saastall offers some great high level hikes to peaks, passes and huts above 3000m.
+ Great glacier views from Saas Fee. Almost on par with Chamonix and Zermatt.
+ Especially Zinal and Grimentz, but also Saastal are A LOT less touristy and crowded than Mattertal and Zermatt.
+ Less expensive than Zermatt and Berner Oberland. In both valleys cable cars are included in the guest card.
+ As for Zermatt, the weather is generally good.
- It's actually difficult to find negative things about these places. It is possibly not THAT spectacular as the places mentioned above, but that's marginal. And you don't get glacier views from Zinal and Grimentz, but have to go further into the mountains.
Tomorrow, I will cover Austria and Italy.
#40

Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 9,499
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To emilychase9863:
I suppose that you dont' want to hike in Austria because for that the train from Vienna would be faster than a flight (door to door).
I suppose that you dont' want to hike between Matterhorn and Mont Blanc because the train from there to Paris would be faster than a flight (door to door).
So, where do you want to go?
I suppose that you dont' want to hike in Austria because for that the train from Vienna would be faster than a flight (door to door).
I suppose that you dont' want to hike between Matterhorn and Mont Blanc because the train from there to Paris would be faster than a flight (door to door).
So, where do you want to go?

