PalenQ

China_cat,anyone planning to visit Mt. Rigi, should consider being there to see the sunrise.>

Sounds redolent of Mark Twain who famously wrote about his night-long trek up to the summit just to see the sunrise:

http://www.theexpeditioner.com/2011/...n-switzerland/

and he hated the incessant alphorn blowing he found once up there - a feeling I share - you will know you're at the summit when you hear those .... alphorns blowing - the Swiss equivalent of bagpipes IMO!

caralin

Hello again, everyone!

If you still happen to have this thread on your radar, I am happy to report that I am currently writing this from the Engadine in Sils Maria (Hotel Privata is WONDERFUL, by the way!). A more thorough trip report will follow later, but in the meantime I just have some last-minute detail questions for you.

It doesn't look like great weather while we're here, unfortunately. We arrived yesterday afternoon, and have taken yesterday and today easy around town (both because my husband hurt his back whitewater rafting in Interlaken, and because it's been pouring buckets of rain). We have three more full days, all of which call for a mixture of clouds and thunderstorms... Jackpot for an outdoor holiday, huh? Oh well, we plan to make the best of it!

Here is our plan for the next three days, based largely on your recommendations (thank you!):

Mon:
Bernina Express Railway to Poschiavo. The guy in the info center said there was no real difference in actual trains between the official BER and the regular trains - they take the same route, one just has bigger windows and needs advance reservations. Can you confirm this? Is the regular train, same route, just as good? We would get out and explore at either Alp Grum or Bernina Ospiz to explore either on our way to/from Poschiavo, perhaps depending on weather. What are the difference between the two? Either more recommended? Lunch Poschiavo, back to Sils Maria for dinner.

Tues:
Via Gastronomica hike. Cable car to Furtachellas, then hike back through Val Fex with restaurant stops along the way.

Wed (our anniversary!):
Bus to Soglio. Bus back to Maloja, hike from there along the lake back to Sils Maria. Concert on the lake (Bozen Brass) at 5pm (if the weather's okay - otherwise it will be in the church). Nice dinner (perhaps at Hotel Waldhaus?)

Thurs:
Head back to Zurich at some point (could be early or late - would ideally like to be there by dinner). Overnight Zurich, then at the airport by 7am for our flight home.

Thoughts? Is it worth doing both Poschiavo and Soglio? We still have two good hikes in there, which might be all we can get considering the dodgy weather.

Thanks again - I appreciate your help, as always!

PalenQ

There is more of a difference between locals and what that bloke said IME - the official Bernina Express trains have many cars with panoramic observation windows and ceiling - practically all glass - locals use regular train cars with normal windows - yes they traipse over the exact same routes - I think Bernina offers commentary en route - did when I last too it several years ago - now I take locals only.

The official BE trains are often chockful with tour groups - you are locked in your seat - on regular trains I can hop back and forth as scenery dictates as they are rarely really full and the windows can even open - love looking out an open window and some of the locals even have open-air flatbed rail cars - the ultimate panoramic cars IMO.

since the official BEs only go a few times a day it is hard to get on and off them and you also need a reservations for a specific train - locals go about every hour so you can get on and off at will.

Though there is a big difference to me the benefits of the locals outweigh what I get from the packed to the gills official BE trains. and reservations on those are not even possible.

Ingo

Mon/Bernina trains: I am a big fan of the regional trains. No difference in views as they take the same route, and you can actually open the windows for taking pictures.

Ospizio Bernina is at the culmination point, next to the lake - a very rugged landscape, almost arctic, with some glacier/snow field views. Alp Grüm is at slightly lower elevation, "greener", with stunning views of the turquoise lake below and Palü glacier on the opposite side of the valley. Nice restaurant with terrace there, too. Would be my prefered stop. However, the weather probably won't co-operate and I suggest you do not stop at all along the way in this case.

There's a small restaurant with nice garden right by the train station in Poschiavo with lunch specials. Nothing exciting, but solid - and inexpensive. Remember that the Tourist Office is in the train station in Poschiavo. Get the key for the Baroque church a few minutes walking south of the town there, get a free map and do this walk - well worth the time. You will also pass the Spanish quarter with Baroque townhouses ("palazzi") and nice gardens.

Tues: Great idea.

Wed: Ditto. Very good plan. And congratulations!! I suggest you have either an aperitif or a schnaps or so before/after dinner at the bar in Hotel Waldhaus. Great ambience.

However - it looks like the weather might be best on Wednesday. This would be my preferred day for the hike in Fex Valley.

basingstoke2

I see you did not include Trummelbach Falls. It is very close to Lauterbrunnen, maybe 3-4 kilometers at the most, and would be a shame to miss. It is a good choice for a rainy day since the falls are mostly inside the mountain. See my more complete description on this thread 1/20 at 1:48 for more detail. It is truly a unique experience.