Surviving Mai Tai Tom's "Royal" Blunder - England/Scotland 2022
Aug 10th, 2022, 10:50 AM
#161
Original Poster
Onward to the Scottish Borders from Northumberland. Our first stop was Floors Castle, which was unfortunately closed for the day for an event. We did wander the beautiful gardens, nature trail and get a glimpse of the huge castle, "the largest inhabited castle in Scotland." Then we visited the viewpoint frequented by a famed Scottish author and a humongous statue of the "Guardian O 'The Scottish Borders." Then after a quick lunch in Melrose, we toured "Scotland's oldest inhabited house," a place where Mary Queen of Scots had a not so pleasant stay about four and a half centuries ago, but does contain some interesting "Mary memorabilia." Story with photos in link below ... and without below photos.
https://travelswithmaitaitom.com/cha...ttish-borders/
Day Twelve: Kath’s Cookies, Fleurs At Floors, Scotland’s Largest Inhabited Castle (But Not By Us), Great Scott, Guardian O’ The Scottish Borders, Burt’s, Farewell To Arms, The Agony Of De-Feet, In Search Of Mary Queen of Scots, A Locals Restaurant and Masking Issues
At breakfast, we received wonderful news. Kath was willing to share her recipe for those tasty shortbread cookies (Kath works at Budle Hall). We learned the “secret” ingredient is the ground rice, and Celia even brought out the box to show us. Unfortunately, other than the list of ingredients the recipe was lacking directions, so we (Tracy) will have to experiment a tad. (Maybe we will see it on MaiTai Tracy’s Kitchen sometime soon.)
We bade goodbye to camera-shy Ziggy, who gave us her usual “look” of endearment. In case you were wondering what type of dog Ziggy is, she is a lurcher which we learned is a cross-breed between a Greyhound and a herding dog. According to Ralph, Ziggy was quite the hunter in her youth.
The sheep were nowhere to be found, and I didn’t have the heart to ask where they were. If you want to stay in this part of the world, I can’t think of a better setting than Budle Hall. Ralph and Celia (and Ziggy) really make your stay a special one.
In planning for this trip, there were plenty of spots I had marked on the itinerary. Unfortunately, before I left, I saw many of these places were either closed for renovations or events. Today was one of those days.
The first disappointment would be Floors Castle, an 18th-century castle that is Scotland’s largest inhabited castle and home to the 10th Duke of Roxburghe. Today, however, it was closed for a private party of some sort. I guess our invitation was lost in the mail.
Instead of getting to see the interior of the castle, we were able to enjoy the gardens and parkland that surrounds Floor Castle. Before going into the gardens, I galloped over to see some four legged friends who seemed kind of lonely in the expansive fields.
But enough of horsing around.
Inside The Walled Garden, we visited The Tapestry Garden. Since Floors Castle hosts concerts, I figured the Tapestry Garden would make for a great Carole King venue. Speaking of concerts, Tracy learned there was to be a Michael Buble concert at the castle on July 4th and asked if we wanted to stay until then.
The garden pathways were lined with an array of colorful flowers including lupines, Scottish thistle and, of course, rhododendrons.
The gardens at Floors Castle were designed in the 1830s, and the Walled Garden was added in 1860.
The Tapestry Garden is relatively new (2016) and provides some contrast within The Walled Garden.
The head gardener lives in the house in the corner of The Walled Garden. Tracy asked whether she could move in. Turns out she can. The house, built in 1815, has been restored and can be rented out as a holiday house. Tracy said she’d see me next year if I wanted to visit.
The French-style Millennium Parterre was our next stop. It features the intertwining initials of the 10th Duke and Duchess of Roxburghe. Since I left my drone in the car, I got this photo off the website.
The ever-present rhododendrons of the United Kingdom were in full blooming glory in a glorious array of colors.
They were so big it looks like I’m waving pompoms.
The colorful azaleas were also gorgeous.
This Westie puppy was tired of walking and received a ride courtesy of his parents.
We then meandered the Riverside Walk and Woodlands Walk to catch a glimpse of the front of the castle we couldn’t visit.
Yep, it’s large alright.
We were going to sneak in, but it was time to head for a viewpoint that a famed author visited quite often.
This lookout is where Sir Walter Scott would come to reflect.
It would later be named Scott’s View.
There are commanding views of the River Tweed and Eildon Hills.
This was an area that once even had volcanic activity.
Now it was time to find another famous Scot located a short drive away.
Near Dryburgh Abbey, on a hill overlooking the River Tweed, we stopped to photograph the giant statue of Scotland’s hero, William Wallace.
The statue, erected in 1814, was the first of many statues honoring Wallace.
The statue is 21 1/2 feet tall on top of a nearly ten-foot pedestal. It’s a short walk through a wooded area from the parking area.
Nearby the statue is an urn with a poetic tribute.
We had wanted to visit either Dryburgh Abbey or Melrose Abbey, but they were both closed for renovation projects. When you can’t see an abbey, you know it’s time to eat.
We drove into the town of Melrose and grabbed a late lunch at Burt’s Hotel.
I felt obligated to eat here because we were originally going to stay at Burt’s. However, after I calculated our next destination to be another 35 minutes away, we stayed nearer to it.
Burt’s Hotel exuded charm, and our lunch was terrific from Tracy’s Mediterranean Greek Salad to Mary’s Carrot and Honey Soup to my Minute Steak Ciabatta with Dijon mustard, onion, mushroom and arugula special.
Since Burt’s was voted Scotland Dining Pub of the Year in 2021 in the Good Pub Guide, I decided a Guinness to toast that award was in order.
Our final destination of the day was a house that’s been here for more than 900 years. That makes Traquair House “Scotland’s Oldest Inhabited House.” Like this guy told me, “There’s no place like Gnome.”
Originally a hunting lodge, it lays claim to have been “visited by 27 Scottish Kings and Queens” and has been in the Stuart family since 1491. In fact, it was John Stuart, the 4th Laird of Traquair, who became the Captain of the Queen’s bodyguard to Mary Queen of Scots and hosted the Queen when she visited Traquair with her husband and infant son James (later James VI of Scotland and James I of England) in 1566. Although it was a rather unpleasant visit for Mary (the Queen, not our traveling companion), some of the artifacts from her stay are still here.
We learned from the docent that the Bear Gates at the main entrance to the grounds have been closed since 1745 as the 5th Earl of Traquair vowed never to open them until the throne of Scotland was reclaimed by a Stuart king. According to Atlas Obscura, “the last direct male descendent of the Stuart Kings died in 1807,” so those gates will be closed forever.
It was here where my right arm was hurting mightily, and glancing down at my right ankle it was so swollen it looked like a bowling ball (I would show you a photo, but some pf you might be eating.).
I only made it part way through the house before I had to sit down and put my feet up, but fortunately Tracy captured everything, including another Martha Stewart-like collection.
In the foyer there is a plaque bearing the Royal Arms of Scotland, and underneath that is a copy of the 1587 warrant to execute Mary Queen of Scots signed by her cousin, Queen Elizabeth I.
The Higher Drawing Room is the largest room in the main house, and it contains a rare 1651 Harpsichord made in the Netherlands.
A narrow spiral stairway leads to the King’s Room. The stairs were purposely designed that way so nobody could climb the stairs with their swords drawn. The King’s Room is where Mary and her husband stayed. You can see the future King James’ crib.
Since Queen Mary suspected she might be pregnant, one evening at dinner, she said she did not want to go hunting the next day. Her husband made a snide remark, and Stuart chastised him and admonished him to treat his wife with more respect. The bed she slept in can also be seen in this room.
There are plenty more Mary artifacts, including an effigy from her tomb at Westminster Abbey made 20 years following her execution that was commissioned by her son, King James VI/I.
Also on display are one of her shoes, a white satin bag along with a rosary and crucifix belonging to her.
The Library was created between 1700 and 1740 and has a collection of about 3,000 books.
There is a maze that can be seen from the upper floor.
I guess one library was not enough, so they built a second one.
Mary (our Mary, not the Queen) went looking for the “Secret Staircase” that provided for escape by priests and political refugees in the 1600s during the Jacobite risings.
After dinner, while the gentlemen stayed in the dining room, the ladies made their way to the Lower Drawing Room.
The Dining Room is in the more modern wing of the house (circa late 1600s).
Rain started pouring in earnest as we headed for the Chapel.
The white marble altar is from Italy.
There are also carved oak panels on the wall chronicling scenes from Christ’s life.
The Chapel was constructed in 1829 after the Catholic Emancipation Act, “which allowed Catholics [to] worship openly again.”
Our resident Catholic Mary must have prayed for good weather while in the chapel because the rain stopped, and it was sunny as we headed for Cupid’s Garden. Tracy loves her bee pictures.
This looks like Cupid to me.
Tracy admired the Bluebells.
Then we made a visit to the Old Walled Garden, which is mainly a grassy area dotted with apple trees.
There’s also a fountain and a small pond. This is where Traquair House holds its weddings (by the way, they also have four rooms that you can stay in … they were already booked when I tried).
We also ran into a couple of goats on our walk. I kid you not.
Cows were grazing nearby.
I also stopped in the brewery that has been on the premises for centuries. I’m sure it had a cure for what ales you, but we moved on.
It was a short drive to our B&B on this evening, Caddon View in Innerleithen, a lodging with eight bedrooms. The house has been here since 1865.
It’s a cute building that has its own cafe.
Our dinner on our one evening in town was at the nearby Traquair Arms Hotel.
My peppercorn steak was as tough as Mary Queen of Scots’ shoe that we had seen at Traquair House, while Tracy’s butternut squash green curry could have used some spice.
When we entered the restaurant, the front bar and restaurant spot was very quiet. Kim hadn’t put his mask on when we departed, but when we hit the bar it was wall-to-wall people. When we got out, Kim said, “I guess I should have worn my mask.”
It was still light as we walked back to Caddon View. We didn’t see much darkness during our entire three weeks in England and Scotland as sunset isn’t until close to 10 p.m.
Tomorrow, we’d head toward Edinburgh, but not before we made a stop at a 15th century chapel we didn’t quite get to see on our first visit to Scotland in 2017. Just like Monty Python, we would go in search of the Holy Grail.
After a couple of quick castle walk-bys and drive-bys, we made it to Edinburgh. We, of course, made our way to the Royal Mile and St. Giles Cathedral, and checked out the exterior of the castle, which was having temporary stands erected for the Royal Edinburgh Military Tattoo in August. We’d also have a spectacular dinner at a restaurant recommended by many on the travel board I frequent.
Next: CHAPTER THIRTEEN: Mai Tai Tom and The Holy Grail (and Edinburgh)
Day Thirteen: Where’s Tom Hanks?, Four Weddings And A Funeral, No Photos (Almost), What Goes Down Must Come Up, Queen Mary Slept Here, Perfect Location, Direction-Impaired Males, Brewhemia, A Royal Walk, “55 Highland Cows” and Angels With Bagpipes
https://travelswithmaitaitom.com/cha...ttish-borders/
Day Twelve: Kath’s Cookies, Fleurs At Floors, Scotland’s Largest Inhabited Castle (But Not By Us), Great Scott, Guardian O’ The Scottish Borders, Burt’s, Farewell To Arms, The Agony Of De-Feet, In Search Of Mary Queen of Scots, A Locals Restaurant and Masking Issues
At breakfast, we received wonderful news. Kath was willing to share her recipe for those tasty shortbread cookies (Kath works at Budle Hall). We learned the “secret” ingredient is the ground rice, and Celia even brought out the box to show us. Unfortunately, other than the list of ingredients the recipe was lacking directions, so we (Tracy) will have to experiment a tad. (Maybe we will see it on MaiTai Tracy’s Kitchen sometime soon.)
We bade goodbye to camera-shy Ziggy, who gave us her usual “look” of endearment. In case you were wondering what type of dog Ziggy is, she is a lurcher which we learned is a cross-breed between a Greyhound and a herding dog. According to Ralph, Ziggy was quite the hunter in her youth.
The sheep were nowhere to be found, and I didn’t have the heart to ask where they were. If you want to stay in this part of the world, I can’t think of a better setting than Budle Hall. Ralph and Celia (and Ziggy) really make your stay a special one.
In planning for this trip, there were plenty of spots I had marked on the itinerary. Unfortunately, before I left, I saw many of these places were either closed for renovations or events. Today was one of those days.
The first disappointment would be Floors Castle, an 18th-century castle that is Scotland’s largest inhabited castle and home to the 10th Duke of Roxburghe. Today, however, it was closed for a private party of some sort. I guess our invitation was lost in the mail.
Instead of getting to see the interior of the castle, we were able to enjoy the gardens and parkland that surrounds Floor Castle. Before going into the gardens, I galloped over to see some four legged friends who seemed kind of lonely in the expansive fields.
But enough of horsing around.
Inside The Walled Garden, we visited The Tapestry Garden. Since Floors Castle hosts concerts, I figured the Tapestry Garden would make for a great Carole King venue. Speaking of concerts, Tracy learned there was to be a Michael Buble concert at the castle on July 4th and asked if we wanted to stay until then.
The garden pathways were lined with an array of colorful flowers including lupines, Scottish thistle and, of course, rhododendrons.
The gardens at Floors Castle were designed in the 1830s, and the Walled Garden was added in 1860.
The Tapestry Garden is relatively new (2016) and provides some contrast within The Walled Garden.
The head gardener lives in the house in the corner of The Walled Garden. Tracy asked whether she could move in. Turns out she can. The house, built in 1815, has been restored and can be rented out as a holiday house. Tracy said she’d see me next year if I wanted to visit.
The French-style Millennium Parterre was our next stop. It features the intertwining initials of the 10th Duke and Duchess of Roxburghe. Since I left my drone in the car, I got this photo off the website.
The ever-present rhododendrons of the United Kingdom were in full blooming glory in a glorious array of colors.
They were so big it looks like I’m waving pompoms.
The colorful azaleas were also gorgeous.
This Westie puppy was tired of walking and received a ride courtesy of his parents.
We then meandered the Riverside Walk and Woodlands Walk to catch a glimpse of the front of the castle we couldn’t visit.
Yep, it’s large alright.
We were going to sneak in, but it was time to head for a viewpoint that a famed author visited quite often.
This lookout is where Sir Walter Scott would come to reflect.
It would later be named Scott’s View.
There are commanding views of the River Tweed and Eildon Hills.
This was an area that once even had volcanic activity.
Now it was time to find another famous Scot located a short drive away.
Near Dryburgh Abbey, on a hill overlooking the River Tweed, we stopped to photograph the giant statue of Scotland’s hero, William Wallace.
The statue, erected in 1814, was the first of many statues honoring Wallace.
The statue is 21 1/2 feet tall on top of a nearly ten-foot pedestal. It’s a short walk through a wooded area from the parking area.
Nearby the statue is an urn with a poetic tribute.
We had wanted to visit either Dryburgh Abbey or Melrose Abbey, but they were both closed for renovation projects. When you can’t see an abbey, you know it’s time to eat.
We drove into the town of Melrose and grabbed a late lunch at Burt’s Hotel.
I felt obligated to eat here because we were originally going to stay at Burt’s. However, after I calculated our next destination to be another 35 minutes away, we stayed nearer to it.
Burt’s Hotel exuded charm, and our lunch was terrific from Tracy’s Mediterranean Greek Salad to Mary’s Carrot and Honey Soup to my Minute Steak Ciabatta with Dijon mustard, onion, mushroom and arugula special.
Since Burt’s was voted Scotland Dining Pub of the Year in 2021 in the Good Pub Guide, I decided a Guinness to toast that award was in order.
Our final destination of the day was a house that’s been here for more than 900 years. That makes Traquair House “Scotland’s Oldest Inhabited House.” Like this guy told me, “There’s no place like Gnome.”
Originally a hunting lodge, it lays claim to have been “visited by 27 Scottish Kings and Queens” and has been in the Stuart family since 1491. In fact, it was John Stuart, the 4th Laird of Traquair, who became the Captain of the Queen’s bodyguard to Mary Queen of Scots and hosted the Queen when she visited Traquair with her husband and infant son James (later James VI of Scotland and James I of England) in 1566. Although it was a rather unpleasant visit for Mary (the Queen, not our traveling companion), some of the artifacts from her stay are still here.
We learned from the docent that the Bear Gates at the main entrance to the grounds have been closed since 1745 as the 5th Earl of Traquair vowed never to open them until the throne of Scotland was reclaimed by a Stuart king. According to Atlas Obscura, “the last direct male descendent of the Stuart Kings died in 1807,” so those gates will be closed forever.
It was here where my right arm was hurting mightily, and glancing down at my right ankle it was so swollen it looked like a bowling ball (I would show you a photo, but some pf you might be eating.).
I only made it part way through the house before I had to sit down and put my feet up, but fortunately Tracy captured everything, including another Martha Stewart-like collection.
In the foyer there is a plaque bearing the Royal Arms of Scotland, and underneath that is a copy of the 1587 warrant to execute Mary Queen of Scots signed by her cousin, Queen Elizabeth I.
The Higher Drawing Room is the largest room in the main house, and it contains a rare 1651 Harpsichord made in the Netherlands.
A narrow spiral stairway leads to the King’s Room. The stairs were purposely designed that way so nobody could climb the stairs with their swords drawn. The King’s Room is where Mary and her husband stayed. You can see the future King James’ crib.
Since Queen Mary suspected she might be pregnant, one evening at dinner, she said she did not want to go hunting the next day. Her husband made a snide remark, and Stuart chastised him and admonished him to treat his wife with more respect. The bed she slept in can also be seen in this room.
There are plenty more Mary artifacts, including an effigy from her tomb at Westminster Abbey made 20 years following her execution that was commissioned by her son, King James VI/I.
Also on display are one of her shoes, a white satin bag along with a rosary and crucifix belonging to her.
The Library was created between 1700 and 1740 and has a collection of about 3,000 books.
There is a maze that can be seen from the upper floor.
I guess one library was not enough, so they built a second one.
Mary (our Mary, not the Queen) went looking for the “Secret Staircase” that provided for escape by priests and political refugees in the 1600s during the Jacobite risings.
After dinner, while the gentlemen stayed in the dining room, the ladies made their way to the Lower Drawing Room.
The Dining Room is in the more modern wing of the house (circa late 1600s).
Rain started pouring in earnest as we headed for the Chapel.
The white marble altar is from Italy.
There are also carved oak panels on the wall chronicling scenes from Christ’s life.
The Chapel was constructed in 1829 after the Catholic Emancipation Act, “which allowed Catholics [to] worship openly again.”
Our resident Catholic Mary must have prayed for good weather while in the chapel because the rain stopped, and it was sunny as we headed for Cupid’s Garden. Tracy loves her bee pictures.
This looks like Cupid to me.
Tracy admired the Bluebells.
Then we made a visit to the Old Walled Garden, which is mainly a grassy area dotted with apple trees.
There’s also a fountain and a small pond. This is where Traquair House holds its weddings (by the way, they also have four rooms that you can stay in … they were already booked when I tried).
We also ran into a couple of goats on our walk. I kid you not.
Cows were grazing nearby.
I also stopped in the brewery that has been on the premises for centuries. I’m sure it had a cure for what ales you, but we moved on.
It was a short drive to our B&B on this evening, Caddon View in Innerleithen, a lodging with eight bedrooms. The house has been here since 1865.
It’s a cute building that has its own cafe.
Our dinner on our one evening in town was at the nearby Traquair Arms Hotel.
My peppercorn steak was as tough as Mary Queen of Scots’ shoe that we had seen at Traquair House, while Tracy’s butternut squash green curry could have used some spice.
When we entered the restaurant, the front bar and restaurant spot was very quiet. Kim hadn’t put his mask on when we departed, but when we hit the bar it was wall-to-wall people. When we got out, Kim said, “I guess I should have worn my mask.”
It was still light as we walked back to Caddon View. We didn’t see much darkness during our entire three weeks in England and Scotland as sunset isn’t until close to 10 p.m.
Tomorrow, we’d head toward Edinburgh, but not before we made a stop at a 15th century chapel we didn’t quite get to see on our first visit to Scotland in 2017. Just like Monty Python, we would go in search of the Holy Grail.
After a couple of quick castle walk-bys and drive-bys, we made it to Edinburgh. We, of course, made our way to the Royal Mile and St. Giles Cathedral, and checked out the exterior of the castle, which was having temporary stands erected for the Royal Edinburgh Military Tattoo in August. We’d also have a spectacular dinner at a restaurant recommended by many on the travel board I frequent.
Next: CHAPTER THIRTEEN: Mai Tai Tom and The Holy Grail (and Edinburgh)
Day Thirteen: Where’s Tom Hanks?, Four Weddings And A Funeral, No Photos (Almost), What Goes Down Must Come Up, Queen Mary Slept Here, Perfect Location, Direction-Impaired Males, Brewhemia, A Royal Walk, “55 Highland Cows” and Angels With Bagpipes
Aug 10th, 2022, 11:09 AM
#162
Join Date: May 2003
Posts: 1,636
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
We visited Floors last month and spotted Bryan Adams practising in the courtyard ready for his concert the following day. Actually it was impossible to escape the noise he was making (we ain't fans, had you guessed?) - he seemed to be going over and over just one song which stuck in our brains for the next 48 hours.
Lovely place though, and good tearoom overlooking the gardens.
Lovely place though, and good tearoom overlooking the gardens.
Aug 10th, 2022, 06:50 PM
#163
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 7,533
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Rushes out to buy ground rice.
MaiTai Tom, I am surprised to see your wearing a coat-vest, didna' think it'd have been that cold up there.
Btw Morgana, I heard Bryan Adams' very first demo, the disco-influenced one that he made before he met his manager. I was applying for a record company position then and the manager played me that demo to gauge my opinion. The song was so bad that apparently, Adams has actually made an effort to buy up all remaining copies.
I am done. the upcoming Tom Hanks part
MaiTai Tom, I am surprised to see your wearing a coat-vest, didna' think it'd have been that cold up there.
Btw Morgana, I heard Bryan Adams' very first demo, the disco-influenced one that he made before he met his manager. I was applying for a record company position then and the manager played me that demo to gauge my opinion. The song was so bad that apparently, Adams has actually made an effort to buy up all remaining copies.
I am done. the upcoming Tom Hanks part
Aug 10th, 2022, 07:36 PM
#164
I was able to stay two nights at Traquair House back during a Scotland/England/Channel Islands/Joan bleedin' Collins/Diamond Jubilee trip -- Traquair was a bucket list item and was wonderful Saddest, weirdest, 'funnest', trip ever
BTW they sell Traquair Ales at BevMo here in CA (or at least my local one does)
BTW they sell Traquair Ales at BevMo here in CA (or at least my local one does)
Aug 13th, 2022, 01:25 PM
#165
Original Poster
"I was able to stay two nights at Traquair House back during a Scotland/England/Channel Islands/Joan bleedin' Collins/Diamond Jubilee trip. BTW they sell Traquair Ales at BevMo here in CA (or at least my local one does)"
Now that sounds like a cool trip. I will look for the Traquair Ale. Is it good?
Now that sounds like a cool trip. I will look for the Traquair Ale. Is it good?
Aug 13th, 2022, 01:39 PM
#166
I think it is really excellent -- quite a strong brown ale. But then I like dark/chewy beers -- none of this Bud Light yellow water 
For years I had two bottles in the back of my liquor cabinet as souvenirs / keepsakes never to be opened (I love the labels) . . . and then about 6 months ago I found it at BevMo -- joy 
I 'think' Total Wines & More also stocks it.
Here is the TR -- hard to believe that was a decade ago. Saddest, weirdest, 'funnest', trip ever
For years I had two bottles in the back of my liquor cabinet as souvenirs / keepsakes never to be opened (I love the labels) . . . and then about 6 months ago I found it at BevMo -- joy I 'think' Total Wines & More also stocks it.Here is the TR -- hard to believe that was a decade ago. Saddest, weirdest, 'funnest', trip ever
Aug 16th, 2022, 05:39 AM
#167
Original Poster
We had missed out on visiting Rosslyn Chapel on our last trip to Scotland, but not this time. I went in search of the Holy Grail there before hitting Edinburgh. We stayed at a perfectly located hotel near the Royal Mile, and got a good workout walking up the stairs to get there. On a gorgeous day, we took a stroll on part of the Royal Mile and, of course, ducked into St. Giles' Cathedral. It was back to the Royal Mile for dinner at a great restaurant. (story with photos link below ... without photos below photos)
https://travelswithmaitaitom.com/cha...ing-edinburgh/
CHAPTER THIRTEEN: Mai Tai Tom and The Holy Grail (and Exploring Edinburgh)
Day Thirteen: Where’s Tom Hanks?, Four Weddings And A Funeral, No Photos (Almost), What Goes Down Must Come Up, Queen Mary Slept Here, Perfect Location, Direction-Impaired Males, Brewhemia, A Royal Walk, “55 Highland Cows” and Angels With Bagpipes
After a quick breakfast at Caddon View, we were back on the road for the 40-minute drive to a place I had never heard of until I saw a Tom Hanks movie (no, I didn’t read the Dan Brown book, but Mary and Tracy did). Since reading the Da Vinci Code, Rosslyn Chapel had been on their wish list (officially the Collegiate Church of St. Matthew). I booked timed tickets weeks in advance (since there are only 5 time slots Monday to Saturday and three on Sunday advance reservations are a must). The time slot I selected was sold out before we left for the UK. I thought it interesting that Rosslyn Chapel is located in the town of Roslin.
In the Visitor Center there is a picture of William The Chapel Cat, who frequented the Chapel for 17 years and was a fan favorite. He reminded us of our late cat Spencer (no relation to Diana).
Before entering we scouted the exterior of the church that has been shrouded in mystery through the centuries. Depending upon who you believe, Mary Magdalene is buried here, treasures of the Knights Templar are buried here, the head of Jesus is buried here and even the lost ark of the covenant and the Holy Grail are here. They have quite a PR agent. You really needed a Da Vinci code to decipher it all.
I tried to call John Cleese, Michael Palin, Terry Gilliam and Eric Idle, but they were busy being taunted by a Frenchman at Doune Castle and being attacked by a killer rabbit. This place seemed much safer.
The docent told us that since the Da Vinci Code came out Rosslyn Chapel has been overrun with tourists, which is why they limit the amount of people who can visit here each day.
There are interesting exterior doors.
Swags of flowers adorned the Chapel which was being set up to host the first wedding since 2019 later in the afternoon.
Interestingly, we were told that in 2019 there were four weddings and a funeral held at Rosslyn Chapel, but no Hugh Grant.
The eaves of the church contained a number of Gargoyles. Just like stained glass windows, many of the carvings on the church tell “visual stories,” since many people could not read when it was built.
Rosslyn Chapel has been in the ownership of the St. Clair family since its foundation in 1446. There are memorials to them here.
This is the grave of Robert Francis St. Clair-Erskine, the High Commissioner to the General Assembly of the Church of Scotland on four occasions in the 1800s. He is buried in the southwest corner of the chapel gardens.
Once inside the chapel we listened to a docent tell interesting and evocative tales of the chapel’s long history. There were stories of Henry VII’s “rough wooing,” and how Queen Victoria’s remarks that the chapel should be “preserved for the country,” made it a must-stop tourist destination even before the book and movie.
The docent also told the legend of the Apprentice Pillar (on the left, I believe). The story is too long to put it all here, but it seems the master mason left Rosslyn in search of inspiration in the great cathedrals and churches of Rome. He was gone for such a long time, that an apprentice changed the departed mason’s design and created the pillar. Upon his return years later, the master mason was more than a little upset and jealous and murdered the apprentice by striking him on the head with a mallet.
Yes, we know it said that no photos are allowed inside, but after seeing about 20 people taking pictures, I begged Tracy to capture a few (including the photo above).
She was not struck down by a bolt of lightning, so I think God thought it was OK, too.
Who is that masked man?
It is just a short hike down a wooded lane to the ruins of Rosslyn Castle, which was the ancestral home of the St. Clair family.
It was a gorgeous day as we walked past the cemetery.
We checked out the ruins for a little bit …
… and it was back on the road toward Edinburgh.
We took a slight detour to Craigmillar Castle, but once again “conservation work” made it not worth our while to pay the admittance fee.
Craigmillar provided safe haven for Mary Queen of Scots in 1566. That didn’t last for long and only a year later she would be imprisoned here.
We drove into Edinburgh, and construction made the traffic a mini-nightmare. It was so bad, we saw a member of the Blue Man Group attempting to escape by climbing up the wall of The Waverly Bar on St. Mary’s Street.
After waiting for what seemed an eternity for the light to change, Kim took charge and made an illegal turn in order to arrive at The Market Street Hotel, which is conveniently located across the street from the train station. We were impressed with his daring and ingenuity, and at no time were any lives in danger.
Not so impressive was our next move. Tracy and Mary unloaded the car (by now, I could barely lift my tooth brush), and went upstairs to the lobby to get directions for parking. They called us, and soon Kim and I were off to the parking lot, or so we thought. As husbands, listening is really not our forte, and in a matter of moments we were back staring at the Blue Man again.
This time Kim made a legal turn and five minutes later we were back in front of the hotel. This time the concierge came down and pointed us in the right direction. Guess we should have turned left instead of right. It was a short jaunt back to the hotel, where we were greeted by Tracy and Mary who were just finishing their glasses of welcoming Prosecco. I quickly joined them.
We loved the hotel and its location between the train station and the Royal Mile. It was very quiet, modern and its staff was terrific, and as we already were shown, patient. There was a discount for a multiple day stay, and we also got 10% off the parking at the public lot.
Here’s the view from our room.
By now we were what we usually are at about 1:30 … famished. The lady at the desk recommended a place next door, and upon first glance this would be a place we would not have probably gone to on our own. It was large and seemed like a touristy place, which makes sense since it across from the train station. Fortunately, we took the hotel’s advice.
Brewhemia fit the bill. It even serves breakfast all day, so Kim ordered waffles.
All the meals were good, and Tracy loved her winter salad with beets, apricots and pomegranate seeds, while I thoroughly enjoyed my mac & cheese.
There is a staircase short-cut next to the restaurant which takes you to the street that takes you to the Royal Mile, so we trudged up the stairs. I have to get in better shape for Lisbon.
As to be expected, just like our trip in 2017, the Royal Mile was packed. We walked by “The Father of Economics,” (and Capitalism) Adam Smith.
We also checked out the menu for our dinner spot on this evening.
I believe Kim and Mary said they had to have their hair done when Tracy and I mentioned visiting St. Giles Cathedral.
Unlike our 2017 trip, you didn’t need to pay a nominal fee for taking photos of this glorious cathedral, which dates back to the 12th century.
Inside is a bust of John Knox, who converted to Protestantism and eventually became minister of St. Giles.
History of the cathedral is cleverly shown to visitors with stories on the floor. Like this one about the assassination of the Regent Moray in 1570.
I found this interesting.
When you can get an organ combined with a great ceiling, Tracy will be there with her iPhone to take a pano of the ceiling, although I was afraid she might suffer another round of “Cathedral Neck.”
We paid our respects to James Graham, the Marquis of Montrose.
The stained glass here, as it seems to be in every cathedral, was stunning.
I thought the most interesting and beautiful was the Robert Burns Window, installed in 1985.
From the St. Giles website, “The lowest section is mainly green, representing the natural world that Burns portrayed so vividly and so lovingly. The middle section contains many human figures as it celebrates human unity, regardless of race, colour or creed. The topmost tracery contains a glorious sunburst of love, blossoming “like a red, red rose.” Coupled with that wonderful blue ceiling it really stood out.
This window depicting the nativity scene was one of the first series of stained glass to be installed “after the original, medieval windows had been removed following the Scottish Reformation.”
What we really wanted to re-visit was the Chapel of the Order of the Thistle, where we were wowed in 2017. Outside the chapel Royal Banners fly high.
Sadly, the Thistle Chapel was closed during the duration of our stay in Edinburgh.
These are some photos and a description when we visited in 2017.
Our return to St. Giles was ending …
… but not without a few more photos.
Back outside, the skies had turned predominantly blue. That’s the statue of John Knox behind a straggled tourist.
We passed by Deacon Brodie’s Pub, where we shared a pint in 2017 … story on that day here.
It’s obvious we love red doors on old buildings.
After walking up to the castle where they were already erecting temporary stands in preparation for the Edinburgh Military Tattoo in August, we walked back down the Royal Mile for a bit (for our Edinburgh castle tour in 2017 … click here).
The statue of Scottish Enlightenment philosopher David Hume stood in the distance. It’s said if you rub his toe it will bring good luck. Last time we saw him in 2017, he was wearing a construction cone.
For dinner that night we returned to the Royal Mile for dinner at Angels With Bagpipes that I had reserved long in advance. Its name is a reference to the carving of an angel carrying bagpipes in the Thistle Chapel of St. Giles Cathedral.
Our concierge said this was his favorite restaurant in Edinburgh, and it even has its own angel with bagpipes.
These two photos are from the restaurant.
Angels With Bagpipes serves Scottish fare with a little bit of Italian influence thrown in for good measure. Our waiter happened to be from the La Marche region in Italy, and I peppered him with questions because we hope to get there in the next few years (if I survive these vacations). Dinner was spectacular.
Tracy and I started with a delicious Beef Carpaccio; with rocket, Berkswell cheese, crouton, but the “Wow” main dish was the 12-hour braised beef, with pickled onion, panko and potato terrine that was out of this world.
Kim enjoyed his Chicken breast; thigh, sweetcorn, lemongrass, red pepper, while Mary said her fish with Polenta, broccoli, mushroom, capers and pumpkin seeds was very good.
Our waiter suggested the Mascarpone mousse for dessert, however I opted for the Orange Chocolate with Salted Caramel. “WOW!” This dish was in Guy Fieri lingo, “Completely out of bounds.” It didn’t take long for it to go from this good-looking dessert to an empty plate.
On an exceptional Edinburgh evening with the clouds turning lovely shades of pink and lavender, we walked back to the hotel thinking about we wanted to do the following day. The last time we visited Edinburgh, we got a few rain drenchings, but that was not the forecast for the following day.
We would retrace some of our previous steps with a walk through Princes Street Gardens, complete with that million dollar view of Edinburgh Castle, stroll through a familiar graveyard and along the Water of Leith to Dean Village. We’d have a surprisingly spectacular lunch, and then Tracy would take us by the museum that contains one of her favorite paintings in the world. The four of us would share a spot of tea at our hotel, and then finish the day by dining at my favorite Edinburgh restaurant. Its reputation would be at “steak.”
https://travelswithmaitaitom.com/cha...ing-edinburgh/
CHAPTER THIRTEEN: Mai Tai Tom and The Holy Grail (and Exploring Edinburgh)
Day Thirteen: Where’s Tom Hanks?, Four Weddings And A Funeral, No Photos (Almost), What Goes Down Must Come Up, Queen Mary Slept Here, Perfect Location, Direction-Impaired Males, Brewhemia, A Royal Walk, “55 Highland Cows” and Angels With Bagpipes
After a quick breakfast at Caddon View, we were back on the road for the 40-minute drive to a place I had never heard of until I saw a Tom Hanks movie (no, I didn’t read the Dan Brown book, but Mary and Tracy did). Since reading the Da Vinci Code, Rosslyn Chapel had been on their wish list (officially the Collegiate Church of St. Matthew). I booked timed tickets weeks in advance (since there are only 5 time slots Monday to Saturday and three on Sunday advance reservations are a must). The time slot I selected was sold out before we left for the UK. I thought it interesting that Rosslyn Chapel is located in the town of Roslin.
In the Visitor Center there is a picture of William The Chapel Cat, who frequented the Chapel for 17 years and was a fan favorite. He reminded us of our late cat Spencer (no relation to Diana).
Before entering we scouted the exterior of the church that has been shrouded in mystery through the centuries. Depending upon who you believe, Mary Magdalene is buried here, treasures of the Knights Templar are buried here, the head of Jesus is buried here and even the lost ark of the covenant and the Holy Grail are here. They have quite a PR agent. You really needed a Da Vinci code to decipher it all.
I tried to call John Cleese, Michael Palin, Terry Gilliam and Eric Idle, but they were busy being taunted by a Frenchman at Doune Castle and being attacked by a killer rabbit. This place seemed much safer.
The docent told us that since the Da Vinci Code came out Rosslyn Chapel has been overrun with tourists, which is why they limit the amount of people who can visit here each day.
There are interesting exterior doors.
Swags of flowers adorned the Chapel which was being set up to host the first wedding since 2019 later in the afternoon.
Interestingly, we were told that in 2019 there were four weddings and a funeral held at Rosslyn Chapel, but no Hugh Grant.
The eaves of the church contained a number of Gargoyles. Just like stained glass windows, many of the carvings on the church tell “visual stories,” since many people could not read when it was built.
Rosslyn Chapel has been in the ownership of the St. Clair family since its foundation in 1446. There are memorials to them here.
This is the grave of Robert Francis St. Clair-Erskine, the High Commissioner to the General Assembly of the Church of Scotland on four occasions in the 1800s. He is buried in the southwest corner of the chapel gardens.
Once inside the chapel we listened to a docent tell interesting and evocative tales of the chapel’s long history. There were stories of Henry VII’s “rough wooing,” and how Queen Victoria’s remarks that the chapel should be “preserved for the country,” made it a must-stop tourist destination even before the book and movie.
The docent also told the legend of the Apprentice Pillar (on the left, I believe). The story is too long to put it all here, but it seems the master mason left Rosslyn in search of inspiration in the great cathedrals and churches of Rome. He was gone for such a long time, that an apprentice changed the departed mason’s design and created the pillar. Upon his return years later, the master mason was more than a little upset and jealous and murdered the apprentice by striking him on the head with a mallet.
Yes, we know it said that no photos are allowed inside, but after seeing about 20 people taking pictures, I begged Tracy to capture a few (including the photo above).
She was not struck down by a bolt of lightning, so I think God thought it was OK, too.
Who is that masked man?
It is just a short hike down a wooded lane to the ruins of Rosslyn Castle, which was the ancestral home of the St. Clair family.
It was a gorgeous day as we walked past the cemetery.
We checked out the ruins for a little bit …
… and it was back on the road toward Edinburgh.
We took a slight detour to Craigmillar Castle, but once again “conservation work” made it not worth our while to pay the admittance fee.
Craigmillar provided safe haven for Mary Queen of Scots in 1566. That didn’t last for long and only a year later she would be imprisoned here.
We drove into Edinburgh, and construction made the traffic a mini-nightmare. It was so bad, we saw a member of the Blue Man Group attempting to escape by climbing up the wall of The Waverly Bar on St. Mary’s Street.
After waiting for what seemed an eternity for the light to change, Kim took charge and made an illegal turn in order to arrive at The Market Street Hotel, which is conveniently located across the street from the train station. We were impressed with his daring and ingenuity, and at no time were any lives in danger.
Not so impressive was our next move. Tracy and Mary unloaded the car (by now, I could barely lift my tooth brush), and went upstairs to the lobby to get directions for parking. They called us, and soon Kim and I were off to the parking lot, or so we thought. As husbands, listening is really not our forte, and in a matter of moments we were back staring at the Blue Man again.
This time Kim made a legal turn and five minutes later we were back in front of the hotel. This time the concierge came down and pointed us in the right direction. Guess we should have turned left instead of right. It was a short jaunt back to the hotel, where we were greeted by Tracy and Mary who were just finishing their glasses of welcoming Prosecco. I quickly joined them.
We loved the hotel and its location between the train station and the Royal Mile. It was very quiet, modern and its staff was terrific, and as we already were shown, patient. There was a discount for a multiple day stay, and we also got 10% off the parking at the public lot.
Here’s the view from our room.
By now we were what we usually are at about 1:30 … famished. The lady at the desk recommended a place next door, and upon first glance this would be a place we would not have probably gone to on our own. It was large and seemed like a touristy place, which makes sense since it across from the train station. Fortunately, we took the hotel’s advice.
Brewhemia fit the bill. It even serves breakfast all day, so Kim ordered waffles.
All the meals were good, and Tracy loved her winter salad with beets, apricots and pomegranate seeds, while I thoroughly enjoyed my mac & cheese.
There is a staircase short-cut next to the restaurant which takes you to the street that takes you to the Royal Mile, so we trudged up the stairs. I have to get in better shape for Lisbon.
As to be expected, just like our trip in 2017, the Royal Mile was packed. We walked by “The Father of Economics,” (and Capitalism) Adam Smith.
We also checked out the menu for our dinner spot on this evening.
I believe Kim and Mary said they had to have their hair done when Tracy and I mentioned visiting St. Giles Cathedral.
Unlike our 2017 trip, you didn’t need to pay a nominal fee for taking photos of this glorious cathedral, which dates back to the 12th century.
Inside is a bust of John Knox, who converted to Protestantism and eventually became minister of St. Giles.
History of the cathedral is cleverly shown to visitors with stories on the floor. Like this one about the assassination of the Regent Moray in 1570.
I found this interesting.
When you can get an organ combined with a great ceiling, Tracy will be there with her iPhone to take a pano of the ceiling, although I was afraid she might suffer another round of “Cathedral Neck.”
We paid our respects to James Graham, the Marquis of Montrose.
The stained glass here, as it seems to be in every cathedral, was stunning.
I thought the most interesting and beautiful was the Robert Burns Window, installed in 1985.
From the St. Giles website, “The lowest section is mainly green, representing the natural world that Burns portrayed so vividly and so lovingly. The middle section contains many human figures as it celebrates human unity, regardless of race, colour or creed. The topmost tracery contains a glorious sunburst of love, blossoming “like a red, red rose.” Coupled with that wonderful blue ceiling it really stood out.
This window depicting the nativity scene was one of the first series of stained glass to be installed “after the original, medieval windows had been removed following the Scottish Reformation.”
What we really wanted to re-visit was the Chapel of the Order of the Thistle, where we were wowed in 2017. Outside the chapel Royal Banners fly high.
Sadly, the Thistle Chapel was closed during the duration of our stay in Edinburgh.
These are some photos and a description when we visited in 2017.
Our return to St. Giles was ending …
… but not without a few more photos.
Back outside, the skies had turned predominantly blue. That’s the statue of John Knox behind a straggled tourist.
We passed by Deacon Brodie’s Pub, where we shared a pint in 2017 … story on that day here.
It’s obvious we love red doors on old buildings.
After walking up to the castle where they were already erecting temporary stands in preparation for the Edinburgh Military Tattoo in August, we walked back down the Royal Mile for a bit (for our Edinburgh castle tour in 2017 … click here).
The statue of Scottish Enlightenment philosopher David Hume stood in the distance. It’s said if you rub his toe it will bring good luck. Last time we saw him in 2017, he was wearing a construction cone.
For dinner that night we returned to the Royal Mile for dinner at Angels With Bagpipes that I had reserved long in advance. Its name is a reference to the carving of an angel carrying bagpipes in the Thistle Chapel of St. Giles Cathedral.
Our concierge said this was his favorite restaurant in Edinburgh, and it even has its own angel with bagpipes.
These two photos are from the restaurant.
Angels With Bagpipes serves Scottish fare with a little bit of Italian influence thrown in for good measure. Our waiter happened to be from the La Marche region in Italy, and I peppered him with questions because we hope to get there in the next few years (if I survive these vacations). Dinner was spectacular.
Tracy and I started with a delicious Beef Carpaccio; with rocket, Berkswell cheese, crouton, but the “Wow” main dish was the 12-hour braised beef, with pickled onion, panko and potato terrine that was out of this world.
Kim enjoyed his Chicken breast; thigh, sweetcorn, lemongrass, red pepper, while Mary said her fish with Polenta, broccoli, mushroom, capers and pumpkin seeds was very good.
Our waiter suggested the Mascarpone mousse for dessert, however I opted for the Orange Chocolate with Salted Caramel. “WOW!” This dish was in Guy Fieri lingo, “Completely out of bounds.” It didn’t take long for it to go from this good-looking dessert to an empty plate.
On an exceptional Edinburgh evening with the clouds turning lovely shades of pink and lavender, we walked back to the hotel thinking about we wanted to do the following day. The last time we visited Edinburgh, we got a few rain drenchings, but that was not the forecast for the following day.
We would retrace some of our previous steps with a walk through Princes Street Gardens, complete with that million dollar view of Edinburgh Castle, stroll through a familiar graveyard and along the Water of Leith to Dean Village. We’d have a surprisingly spectacular lunch, and then Tracy would take us by the museum that contains one of her favorite paintings in the world. The four of us would share a spot of tea at our hotel, and then finish the day by dining at my favorite Edinburgh restaurant. Its reputation would be at “steak.”
Last edited by maitaitom; Aug 16th, 2022 at 05:53 AM.
Aug 16th, 2022, 06:47 AM
#169
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 7,533
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
"Its reputation would be at “steak.” He a funny one dat Tom.
Your itinerary led to some rich visuals and good times, a fitting outcome for 'the travelers four' who'd been through a hell of a lot prior to departure.
I am done. the fodorite
Your itinerary led to some rich visuals and good times, a fitting outcome for 'the travelers four' who'd been through a hell of a lot prior to departure.
I am done. the fodorite
Aug 17th, 2022, 08:54 AM
#170
Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 2,766
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
If you had only mentioned that you were going to go to Floors Castle, I would have put in a good word for you, as a family member works there, and knows the Duke. Shame you didn't explore Kelso a little bit. I think you would have enjoyed it.
Aug 23rd, 2022, 12:24 PM
#171
Original Poster
On our first full day in Edinburgh, we revisited a few of our favorites. From the Scott Monument through Princes Street Gardens, St. Cuthbert's graveyard, gorgeous Dean Village, lunch in Edinburgh's New Town to stopping in the Scottish National Gallery to see one of Tracy's favorite paintings, we enjoyed our stroll through Scotland's capital. And for dinner ... voila, we made a return appearance to my favorite international restaurant in 2017. Does it still prepare the best damned steak tare tare in the world? We had to find out.( Story with photos in link below ... without photos below photos)
https://travelswithmaitaitom.com/cha...-dean-village/
CHAPTER FOURTEEN: Edinburgh/Dean Village
Day Fourteen: Another Great Scott, Where’s Anne?, The Church That’s Never Open, Eerie Graveyard, Deans Of The Village, Let’s Skip The Goth Pub, Surprising Lunch, Not Spiro Agnew, Tea For Four, Goth Head & Still The Best!
After a quick caffeine stop and some delectable pastries at Gordon Street Coffee (try the cinnamon swirls … excellent) next to Market Street Hotel, we headed on a little walking tour of Edinburgh.
Before entering the Princes Street Gardens, we stopped by the Scott Monument, which is dedicated to Scottish writer Sir Walter Scott, a poet and novelist who introduced an “almost new genre of writing, the historical novel.” It is the second largest monument to a writer in the world. (That honor belongs to Cuban author José Martí.)
Looking at his statue, I remarked he looked a little like Harry Anderson in the television show Night Court.
This would be our first stroll through Princes Street Gardens since our “encounter” with my friend Princess Anne in 2017. Speaking of royalty, although Scotland was rather cool toward the Queen’s Platinum Jubilee, the gardens did honor her in a small way.
The first thing that strikes one is the imposing Edinburgh Castle looming over the gardens from its perch high atop Castle Rock.
Wherever you walk in Princes Street Gardens, the castle is ever present.
We checked out a few of the monuments in the park. The Royal Scots Greys Monument. The 1906 statue commemorates the famed cavalry regiment and those that perished in the Boer War.
1914’s The Call is a 1927 statue, a memorial given by Scottish Americans to honor Scots who had served in the First World War.
I remembered the Wojtec The Bear Monument from our previous trip. Wojtec was a Siberian bear that was adopted by the Polish Army “and became a hero at the Battle of Monte Casino in the 2nd World War in 1944.” Wojtek, who was officially a private, carried heavy ammunition loads. He was promoted to corporal and lived out his remaining years at the Edinburgh Zoo, where he died at the age of 21 in 1963.
We stopped by a fountain that looked quite different than the one we saw in 2017, although it is the same fountain. The Ross Fountain was created in France in the early 1860s and then gifted to the City of Edinburgh by a local gun maker, Daniel Ross, who saw the fountain in London at the Great Exhibition of 1862,
It turns out the Ross Fountain underwent a restoration project in 2018 and is now a dazzling turquoise, brown and gold.
As you can see, we like taking photos of the fountain with the castle in the background.
I told the group that since this is called the Ross Fountain, it was good to be among Friends.
Then the morning went to the dogs. We saw a statue of Bum The Dog, who is not from Edinburgh, but San Diego. I guess since Edinburgh has its famous Greyfriar’s Bobby (see more about him in 2017) and San Diego has Bum The Vagabond Dog, there is a canine synergy going on here. The legend says that Bum disembarked off a ship in San Diego as a stow-away in 1886 and became San Diego’s first and only official dog. Subsequently, San Diego and Edinburgh took on “sister city” status because of their two official dogs and there is even a statute of Greyfriar’s Bobby next to Bum in San Diego’s Gaslamp District. (we took the photo on right in 2017 after dining at Greyfriars Bobby's Bar)
Before exploring the graveyard, we tried to enter St. Cuthbert’s Church, which knowing my past, had its doors locked on this morning. That’s too bad because, among other things, it is the oldest Christain site in Edinburgh, has a glorious Tiffany stained glass window, plus Agatha Christie was married here. Why it’s often closed remains a mystery to me.
My beloved childhood friend, Bob Black, passed away nearly a decade ago, so I had to stop by his namesake before leaving.
We checked out this unusual duo on the corner and a cool looking pub as we headed to our next destination.
Much to Kim and Mary’s relief, we managed to pass by another church without popping in. St. Mary’s Episcopal Cathedral is from the 19th century and soars to a height nearly the size of a football field (American football, that is).
A captivating walk in 2017 took us to Dean Village, and we wanted to revisit this scenic area. Situated alongside the Water of Leith, there are plenty of scenic views.
Houses in this area are quite photogenic.
So are the dogs frolicking in the water.
Some of the best photo ops come from a bridge that crosses the Water of Leith.
This is a part of Edinburgh that is missed by lots of visitors, but it’s a nice spot to find some tranquility away from the masses on the Royal Mile.
On the way back toward the Stockbridge neighborhood of Edinburgh, we traveled alongside a portion of the Water of Leith Walkway. There are even marked signs to stop and listen to an audioguide by using a QR Code. The entire walkway is 19 1/2 kilometers.
One of the most famous stops on the trail is St. Bernard’s Well (no rum available), an 18th century temple-like structure that actually was constructed as a well that held, according to locals, water that could cure some of their ills with its medicinal qualities. As it turned out it couldn’t. The well shut down in the 1940s when they found out the water contained arsenic and many not-so-healing properties.
Soon we found ourselves at the statue of Thomas Chalmers, "Scotland's greatest 19-century churchman,” meaning we had hit New Town, with “new” being a relative term. This part of the city was built between the 1760s and 1850. We walked along George Street, one of Edinburgh’s main shopping streets. Remembering there was a nearby walking street with restaurants, and since lunchtime was upon us, we went in search of possible dining spots on Rose Street.
It was about a quarter to 12, and we spied a place that had what looked like a good menu. It didn’t open until noon, so we walked a bit and got back a little before 12:30 It was still closed, but a few of the employees were standing at the front door smoking like it would be prohibited at any moment. Someone mentioned that this was a Goth Club, and having forgotten my black lipstick, we decided to move on.
Then we hit the lunch jackpot. Not knowing anything about Auld Hundred, we walked upstairs to a great lunch.
The interior was inviting, and the waiter was knowledgeable and personable.
We all enjoyed our meals immensely. Kim and I tried something we had never eaten before, Scottish rarebit. It looked like just cheese on toast, but the the sauce is more complex than that. Oh, the drizzle of whisky sauce didn’t hurt either. Delicious!
Next up we walked over to the Scottish National Gallery (free), where Tracy was eager to see one of her favorite paintings ever put on canvas. The oil painting on canvas of Lady Agnew of Lochnaw is an 1892 portrait by John Singer Sargent. This painting, along with Sargent’s Carnation, Lily, Lily, Rose (which we have seen at the Tate Britain) are two of Tracy’s favorite paintings she could see over and over again.
The museum is just finishing renovations, and we love how this museum is laid out, and doesn’t overwhelm you with an overabundance of artwork.
We checked out the painting of Alexander III of Scotland being rescued from an angry stag, and one of Dunnottar Castle, which reminded us of our 2017 visit to that imposing castle.
You can’t miss the 19th-century Italian sculpture by Bartolini of The Campbell Sisters, or the Reverend Robert Walker Gliding on a Scottish Loch.
Even when not in the garden Tracy will find her flowers. John Duncan’s Saint Bride popped.
As did this 16th century painting from Raphael’s workshop. It might have been done by Raphael, but most art historians believe it is mostly the work of one of his assistants. Unlike the mason at Rosslyn Chapel, Raphael did not not clunk this guy on the head with a mallet.
We were serenaded as we walked back to our hotel for a little r&r.
First though, we all met on the 7th floor for a spot of tea on the balcony.
We were very excited about going to dinner on this evening. Well, I was. In 2017, I had the best steak tartare of my life at L’Escargot Bleu (56 Broughton Street). I always worry about trying to replicate something done in the past, but I had been craving this dish since we left town. A cab ride there would take 10 minutes, while the walk was ten, so we walked through the Waverley Train Station (named after a Sir Walter Scott historical novel) short-cut. Edinburgh also happens to be the first Unesco City of Literature site.
Along the way, we meandered by a statue of the Duke of Wellington wearing a cone on his head. We learned that this “coning”of Wellington actually started in Glasgow.
We reached L’Escargot Bleu’s blue building that still emphasizes a “french twist using the best of Scotland.”
The inside of L’Escargot Bleu is charming …
… … after I shared with our server my wonderful steak tartare experience on our prior visit, and she said for me to look at the chalkboard. “It’s still on the menu.”
She asked me what heat index I wanted from 1 - 10. The last time I had chosen seven, and although I was so tempted to kick it up a notch, why mess with perfection.
The dish is then prepared tableside, my mouth watering as I watched every ingredient being melded into what I hoped would be a repeat performance of deliciousness.
Our server was meticulous in her preparation …
… and a couple of minutes later it was formed into that circular mound of flavors I had been waiting five years to enjoy. But was it as good, or was that meal five years ago just a “tartare of the moment?” One bite and I knew … today’s dish even surpassed my memories of 2017. Perfection!!!
The rest of the table didn’t fare too badly. Tracy ordered a delicious escargot in parsley garlic butter with chorizo, which she ate at a snail’s pace, while I dipped some fresh bread to scoop up the juices. I’m always here to help.
She and I each had the spectacular Lincoln red Organic Beef Bourguignon for a main.
Mary started with an an exceptional Fish Soup with Cheese, Rouille and Croutons. She continued the seafood route with the Sea bass Fillet and Monkfish Cheeks with Cockles, Shrimps and Saffron Sauce. Both dishes earned “Wow”s from Mary. She even commented, “It tasted like the sea.” And Mary should know, since she is the only human who has fish taste-buds and has been known to sprout gills on occasion from the plethora of fish dishes she consumes.
Kim was not to be denied either. His tastebuds, bolstered by a Snowgoose lager he ordered, enjoyed the Steamed Mussels with Smoked Salmon as his starter followed by the Wild Sea trout with Shallots, Beurre Blanc and Langoustines. It, too, was phenomenal.
Although pretty darn full, our server enticed me with the apple tarte tatin with crème anglaise. It wasn’t a hard sell. As in some of the desserts before on this trip, when I said “we’d share,” I meant well, and we’ll just leave it at that.
On our uphill walk home, we passed by the Balmoral Hotel, looking good in the land where the sun never goes down.
We also saw Walter in a different light.
As we gazed out the window of our room with those cool Edinburgh clouds as we discussed the plan for the next two days..
Tomorrow, we would take a long walk to our first stop, Queen Elizabeth’s royal yacht for 43 years and then visit a royal garden. The following day we would return to where we had been shut out in 2017, Palace of Holyroodhouse. We got shut out on that trip when Princess Anne (who else) decided to take up residence there during our stay. Hopefully, after our encounter in York earlier this trip, she would know better and stay away. I was hopeful because we had timed tickets this trip.
https://travelswithmaitaitom.com/cha...-dean-village/
CHAPTER FOURTEEN: Edinburgh/Dean Village
Day Fourteen: Another Great Scott, Where’s Anne?, The Church That’s Never Open, Eerie Graveyard, Deans Of The Village, Let’s Skip The Goth Pub, Surprising Lunch, Not Spiro Agnew, Tea For Four, Goth Head & Still The Best!
After a quick caffeine stop and some delectable pastries at Gordon Street Coffee (try the cinnamon swirls … excellent) next to Market Street Hotel, we headed on a little walking tour of Edinburgh.
Before entering the Princes Street Gardens, we stopped by the Scott Monument, which is dedicated to Scottish writer Sir Walter Scott, a poet and novelist who introduced an “almost new genre of writing, the historical novel.” It is the second largest monument to a writer in the world. (That honor belongs to Cuban author José Martí.)
Looking at his statue, I remarked he looked a little like Harry Anderson in the television show Night Court.
This would be our first stroll through Princes Street Gardens since our “encounter” with my friend Princess Anne in 2017. Speaking of royalty, although Scotland was rather cool toward the Queen’s Platinum Jubilee, the gardens did honor her in a small way.
The first thing that strikes one is the imposing Edinburgh Castle looming over the gardens from its perch high atop Castle Rock.
Wherever you walk in Princes Street Gardens, the castle is ever present.
We checked out a few of the monuments in the park. The Royal Scots Greys Monument. The 1906 statue commemorates the famed cavalry regiment and those that perished in the Boer War.
1914’s The Call is a 1927 statue, a memorial given by Scottish Americans to honor Scots who had served in the First World War.
I remembered the Wojtec The Bear Monument from our previous trip. Wojtec was a Siberian bear that was adopted by the Polish Army “and became a hero at the Battle of Monte Casino in the 2nd World War in 1944.” Wojtek, who was officially a private, carried heavy ammunition loads. He was promoted to corporal and lived out his remaining years at the Edinburgh Zoo, where he died at the age of 21 in 1963.
We stopped by a fountain that looked quite different than the one we saw in 2017, although it is the same fountain. The Ross Fountain was created in France in the early 1860s and then gifted to the City of Edinburgh by a local gun maker, Daniel Ross, who saw the fountain in London at the Great Exhibition of 1862,
It turns out the Ross Fountain underwent a restoration project in 2018 and is now a dazzling turquoise, brown and gold.
As you can see, we like taking photos of the fountain with the castle in the background.
I told the group that since this is called the Ross Fountain, it was good to be among Friends.
Then the morning went to the dogs. We saw a statue of Bum The Dog, who is not from Edinburgh, but San Diego. I guess since Edinburgh has its famous Greyfriar’s Bobby (see more about him in 2017) and San Diego has Bum The Vagabond Dog, there is a canine synergy going on here. The legend says that Bum disembarked off a ship in San Diego as a stow-away in 1886 and became San Diego’s first and only official dog. Subsequently, San Diego and Edinburgh took on “sister city” status because of their two official dogs and there is even a statute of Greyfriar’s Bobby next to Bum in San Diego’s Gaslamp District. (we took the photo on right in 2017 after dining at Greyfriars Bobby's Bar)
Before exploring the graveyard, we tried to enter St. Cuthbert’s Church, which knowing my past, had its doors locked on this morning. That’s too bad because, among other things, it is the oldest Christain site in Edinburgh, has a glorious Tiffany stained glass window, plus Agatha Christie was married here. Why it’s often closed remains a mystery to me.
My beloved childhood friend, Bob Black, passed away nearly a decade ago, so I had to stop by his namesake before leaving.
We checked out this unusual duo on the corner and a cool looking pub as we headed to our next destination.
Much to Kim and Mary’s relief, we managed to pass by another church without popping in. St. Mary’s Episcopal Cathedral is from the 19th century and soars to a height nearly the size of a football field (American football, that is).
A captivating walk in 2017 took us to Dean Village, and we wanted to revisit this scenic area. Situated alongside the Water of Leith, there are plenty of scenic views.
Houses in this area are quite photogenic.
So are the dogs frolicking in the water.
Some of the best photo ops come from a bridge that crosses the Water of Leith.
This is a part of Edinburgh that is missed by lots of visitors, but it’s a nice spot to find some tranquility away from the masses on the Royal Mile.
On the way back toward the Stockbridge neighborhood of Edinburgh, we traveled alongside a portion of the Water of Leith Walkway. There are even marked signs to stop and listen to an audioguide by using a QR Code. The entire walkway is 19 1/2 kilometers.
One of the most famous stops on the trail is St. Bernard’s Well (no rum available), an 18th century temple-like structure that actually was constructed as a well that held, according to locals, water that could cure some of their ills with its medicinal qualities. As it turned out it couldn’t. The well shut down in the 1940s when they found out the water contained arsenic and many not-so-healing properties.
Soon we found ourselves at the statue of Thomas Chalmers, "Scotland's greatest 19-century churchman,” meaning we had hit New Town, with “new” being a relative term. This part of the city was built between the 1760s and 1850. We walked along George Street, one of Edinburgh’s main shopping streets. Remembering there was a nearby walking street with restaurants, and since lunchtime was upon us, we went in search of possible dining spots on Rose Street.
It was about a quarter to 12, and we spied a place that had what looked like a good menu. It didn’t open until noon, so we walked a bit and got back a little before 12:30 It was still closed, but a few of the employees were standing at the front door smoking like it would be prohibited at any moment. Someone mentioned that this was a Goth Club, and having forgotten my black lipstick, we decided to move on.
Then we hit the lunch jackpot. Not knowing anything about Auld Hundred, we walked upstairs to a great lunch.
The interior was inviting, and the waiter was knowledgeable and personable.
We all enjoyed our meals immensely. Kim and I tried something we had never eaten before, Scottish rarebit. It looked like just cheese on toast, but the the sauce is more complex than that. Oh, the drizzle of whisky sauce didn’t hurt either. Delicious!
Next up we walked over to the Scottish National Gallery (free), where Tracy was eager to see one of her favorite paintings ever put on canvas. The oil painting on canvas of Lady Agnew of Lochnaw is an 1892 portrait by John Singer Sargent. This painting, along with Sargent’s Carnation, Lily, Lily, Rose (which we have seen at the Tate Britain) are two of Tracy’s favorite paintings she could see over and over again.
The museum is just finishing renovations, and we love how this museum is laid out, and doesn’t overwhelm you with an overabundance of artwork.
We checked out the painting of Alexander III of Scotland being rescued from an angry stag, and one of Dunnottar Castle, which reminded us of our 2017 visit to that imposing castle.
You can’t miss the 19th-century Italian sculpture by Bartolini of The Campbell Sisters, or the Reverend Robert Walker Gliding on a Scottish Loch.
Even when not in the garden Tracy will find her flowers. John Duncan’s Saint Bride popped.
As did this 16th century painting from Raphael’s workshop. It might have been done by Raphael, but most art historians believe it is mostly the work of one of his assistants. Unlike the mason at Rosslyn Chapel, Raphael did not not clunk this guy on the head with a mallet.
We were serenaded as we walked back to our hotel for a little r&r.
First though, we all met on the 7th floor for a spot of tea on the balcony.
We were very excited about going to dinner on this evening. Well, I was. In 2017, I had the best steak tartare of my life at L’Escargot Bleu (56 Broughton Street). I always worry about trying to replicate something done in the past, but I had been craving this dish since we left town. A cab ride there would take 10 minutes, while the walk was ten, so we walked through the Waverley Train Station (named after a Sir Walter Scott historical novel) short-cut. Edinburgh also happens to be the first Unesco City of Literature site.
Along the way, we meandered by a statue of the Duke of Wellington wearing a cone on his head. We learned that this “coning”of Wellington actually started in Glasgow.
We reached L’Escargot Bleu’s blue building that still emphasizes a “french twist using the best of Scotland.”
The inside of L’Escargot Bleu is charming …
… … after I shared with our server my wonderful steak tartare experience on our prior visit, and she said for me to look at the chalkboard. “It’s still on the menu.”
She asked me what heat index I wanted from 1 - 10. The last time I had chosen seven, and although I was so tempted to kick it up a notch, why mess with perfection.
The dish is then prepared tableside, my mouth watering as I watched every ingredient being melded into what I hoped would be a repeat performance of deliciousness.
Our server was meticulous in her preparation …
… and a couple of minutes later it was formed into that circular mound of flavors I had been waiting five years to enjoy. But was it as good, or was that meal five years ago just a “tartare of the moment?” One bite and I knew … today’s dish even surpassed my memories of 2017. Perfection!!!
The rest of the table didn’t fare too badly. Tracy ordered a delicious escargot in parsley garlic butter with chorizo, which she ate at a snail’s pace, while I dipped some fresh bread to scoop up the juices. I’m always here to help.
She and I each had the spectacular Lincoln red Organic Beef Bourguignon for a main.
Mary started with an an exceptional Fish Soup with Cheese, Rouille and Croutons. She continued the seafood route with the Sea bass Fillet and Monkfish Cheeks with Cockles, Shrimps and Saffron Sauce. Both dishes earned “Wow”s from Mary. She even commented, “It tasted like the sea.” And Mary should know, since she is the only human who has fish taste-buds and has been known to sprout gills on occasion from the plethora of fish dishes she consumes.
Kim was not to be denied either. His tastebuds, bolstered by a Snowgoose lager he ordered, enjoyed the Steamed Mussels with Smoked Salmon as his starter followed by the Wild Sea trout with Shallots, Beurre Blanc and Langoustines. It, too, was phenomenal.
Although pretty darn full, our server enticed me with the apple tarte tatin with crème anglaise. It wasn’t a hard sell. As in some of the desserts before on this trip, when I said “we’d share,” I meant well, and we’ll just leave it at that.
On our uphill walk home, we passed by the Balmoral Hotel, looking good in the land where the sun never goes down.
We also saw Walter in a different light.
As we gazed out the window of our room with those cool Edinburgh clouds as we discussed the plan for the next two days..
Tomorrow, we would take a long walk to our first stop, Queen Elizabeth’s royal yacht for 43 years and then visit a royal garden. The following day we would return to where we had been shut out in 2017, Palace of Holyroodhouse. We got shut out on that trip when Princess Anne (who else) decided to take up residence there during our stay. Hopefully, after our encounter in York earlier this trip, she would know better and stay away. I was hopeful because we had timed tickets this trip.
Last edited by maitaitom; Aug 23rd, 2022 at 12:45 PM.
Aug 23rd, 2022, 05:34 PM
#175
Original Poster
"MaiTaiTom, were you happy with the Market Street Hotel in Edinburgh?"
We liked it a lot. Very close to Royal Mile and even though across the street from the train station it was quiet. Very nice staff. Comfy bed and good shower. Breakfast too expensive, so we went next door (Gordon Street Coffee) where they had very good coffee and delicious pastries. You either walk up lots of stairs to get to Royal Mile, or walk to the end of the block and walk up a street. Good exercise. I would certainly recommend it. We looked out the window to see how the other half lives at the Balmoral Nice view.
We liked it a lot. Very close to Royal Mile and even though across the street from the train station it was quiet. Very nice staff. Comfy bed and good shower. Breakfast too expensive, so we went next door (Gordon Street Coffee) where they had very good coffee and delicious pastries. You either walk up lots of stairs to get to Royal Mile, or walk to the end of the block and walk up a street. Good exercise. I would certainly recommend it. We looked out the window to see how the other half lives at the Balmoral
Nice view.
Aug 24th, 2022, 08:43 AM
#176
Still loving your TR especially the food. Steak tartare never seems to live up to its billing for me so clearly I need to take a long overdue trip to Edinburgh to try this one. [last time was when I was about 13, $%^$%& years ago!]
Aug 24th, 2022, 04:33 PM
#177
Join Date: Mar 2014
Posts: 4,409
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
"MaiTaiTom, were you happy with the Market Street Hotel in Edinburgh?"
We liked it a lot. Very close to Royal Mile and even though across the street from the train station it was quiet. Very nice staff. Comfy bed and good shower. Breakfast too expensive, so we went next door (Gordon Street Coffee) where they had very good coffee and delicious pastries. You either walk up lots of stairs to get to Royal Mile, or walk to the end of the block and walk up a street. Good exercise. I would certainly recommend it. We looked out the window to see how the other half lives at the Balmoral Nice view.
We liked it a lot. Very close to Royal Mile and even though across the street from the train station it was quiet. Very nice staff. Comfy bed and good shower. Breakfast too expensive, so we went next door (Gordon Street Coffee) where they had very good coffee and delicious pastries. You either walk up lots of stairs to get to Royal Mile, or walk to the end of the block and walk up a street. Good exercise. I would certainly recommend it. We looked out the window to see how the other half lives at the Balmoral
Nice view.
Aug 25th, 2022, 04:12 PM
#178
Join Date: Mar 2014
Posts: 4,409
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
maitaitom,
Another question. What do you think of driving on the left side of the road? Is it scary at first? I prefer to rent a car when we go to Scotland. My husband expressed some reservations about driving on the left, which surprised me because generally nothing bothers him, and he has driven in many European countries and Costa Rica. He suggested renting an automatic, even though he has driven a standard shift for years. I know automatics are more expensive. Generally, I am the worry wart in the family
Another question. What do you think of driving on the left side of the road? Is it scary at first? I prefer to rent a car when we go to Scotland. My husband expressed some reservations about driving on the left, which surprised me because generally nothing bothers him, and he has driven in many European countries and Costa Rica. He suggested renting an automatic, even though he has driven a standard shift for years. I know automatics are more expensive. Generally, I am the worry wart in the family
Aug 26th, 2022, 01:15 AM
#179
Hi Karen, being a brit I have no problem driving on the left but I have had to come to terms with driving on the right many times, which for us brings the same problems, just in reverse.
If your DH is the one who is going to be doing the driving, and he feels he would feel more comfortable with an automatic, then i would go fo it. Even though he is very comfortable driving a manual at home, making things easier has got to be safer. Personally i find that after the first hour or so it's fine, though it's important to pay particular attention at islands, traffic lights, and when you start off in the morning or after stops. As for the cost it can be hard to get a small automatic so that may add to it of course.
If your DH is the one who is going to be doing the driving, and he feels he would feel more comfortable with an automatic, then i would go fo it. Even though he is very comfortable driving a manual at home, making things easier has got to be safer. Personally i find that after the first hour or so it's fine, though it's important to pay particular attention at islands, traffic lights, and when you start off in the morning or after stops. As for the cost it can be hard to get a small automatic so that may add to it of course.
