ingo

s, but Arosa is not in the Engadine!<BR><BR>Ursulas recommendations are always perfect! In January Arosa might be the better choice, because it is usually very, very cold in the Upper Engadine at this time. That's why I prefer the Lower Engadine in January. Anyway, my favourite is the Engadine, because I am also addicted to cross-country. 180 km in St. Moritz/Pontresina vs. 26 km (?) in Arosa! And, as you mentioned, s, it is important if it touched your soul.<BR><BR>My sould was touched in Sils, the Fex Valley and the Hotel Waldhaus - it is incomparable to anything else. Maybe Ursula can understand it - she probably knows it (and the history!).<BR><BR>Unfortunately (bad snow conditions!) I had to cancel my vacation in Scuol/Lower Engadine from 19.-26.1.<BR><BR>Now I am looking for a different place, but I have no idea ...<BR><BR>Ingo

Ursula

Ingo: I truly hope everybody will get some more snow in the Engadine until the end of this winter. Sorry, you had to cancel your holiday. I don't have an idea for an alternative right now, because the Engadine is truly unique for cross-country addicts.<BR>The cross-country tracks are made with snow machines in the middle of green/brown meadows right now.<BR>It's this crazy. There is snow in Southern Italy and not where it should be.<BR>One reason for liking Arosa would also be, that you walk in the woods, whereas in the Engadine, one is at a too high level. For walks in the woods on a hot summer day, I also recommend Flims.<BR>PS: Yes, I remember the Fex Valley, very well. I was there suffering from new hiking shoes in summer! <BR>

s

Ingo & Ursula,<BR><BR>ooops. Lots of double postings lately as well as those geography errors! Looks like I'll have to go to Arosa *and* the Engadine just to get educated!<BR><BR>And I'd also like to spend one week soaking up Gstaad.<BR><BR>So much Switzerland, so little time.<BR><BR>s

jw

Hello s and Ingo and Ursula and whoever else happens to look in. I've just read through your most recent exchanges. You all are tremendous. Ingo, you can write about your 'quiet requirements' to your heart's content, it will never bore us. We each have our very particular ideas about what makes a place perfect for us. I can't wait to visit the Chexbres site! s -- I do enjoy your descriptions; you know how I feel about my Rivaz. I have to mention one thing that puzzles me, however. My impression is that Rivaz is larger than St. Saphorin, but St. Saphorin is older and has more historic architecture -- goes back to the Romans. Catch y'all later. J.

jw

p.s.<BR>I've just had a look at the Waldhaus web site. It's breathtaking. But you can imagine that jw won't be able to afford to step into the front door. I've made a note to see Sils someday -- there must be some little spot with a 'view of the mountains and lakes' that has a bench for sitting. By the way, I love it when you talk about places touching your soul -- that is exactly how I feel, with heart affected as well.<BR><BR>S', the Chexbres site is indeed a beauty. I always thought it was just a cluster of hotels, but you make it sound like it has maintained its village-ness. Ingo, you mentioned two other places that caught my eye. I, too, found Murten to be an interesting little town; stayed there three nights and took a boat to Neuchatel, trains to visit Fribourg and Romont. Visited Avenches on another trip. Now I wonder if you can tell me a bit more about your impressions of Ligerz and Twann on Bielersee. I really liked Solothurn when I spent a day there, and I've considered spending some time in either L' or T' to explore that area more. But like s', I'll probably never be able to forego Lac Leman and Ticino in order to fit it in. As of today, the Grisons is the only unexplored canton that really has me hooked (largely thanks to the discussions at this site) -- and, of course, Basel, thanks to Ursula's enlightening descriptions. Continued gratitude to you all for allowing me to visit my beloved Switzerland vicariously until I can once again be there in person. J.

BTilke

I'm into my second week living in Basel so I'm a newcomer to the Swiss fan club. So far, I like best the safety--it's great being able to walk around by yourself late at night and not have to look over your shoulder. With the exception of graffiti (everywhere), quality of life crimes get lots of attention here, a HUGE change from Brussels.<BR>I'm looking forward to doing a lot of week-end visits, mostly to relatives in Lugano and Appenzell.<BR>What I don't like--the smokers! And I am NOT a person who normally complains about smoke. But the chain smokers in Basel make the Parisians look like amateurs. I'm sitting in an internet cafe right now and am about to keel over from the thick clouds of smoke everywhere. You'd think with all the health care businesses in town, people would be a little more health conscious--I went to a dinner party last night hosted by two doctors (!) and I was the ONLY one who didn't light up. Blecch.

ttt

graffiti? smoke? can't be true.

Ingo

Hi all!<BR><BR>Ursula, you mentioned cross-country tracks in the middle of green/brown meadows in the Engadine. I am assuming you have seen the picture in the NZZ. But now it looks like the weather is changing. Maybe I can go mid March.<BR><BR>Jw, usually I don’t stay in *****hotels, but … I read so much about Sils and the Waldhaus, it touched my soul and I had to soak it up! It was a package, about 1800 Sfr. for a week, half-board and cultural stuff included. You mentioned the little spot with the bench and the view of mountains and lakes. I think I know which place you mean. It is located in the Laret (larch) forest right above Hotel Waldhaus. I had a picnic there in late September right before I was heading to Montreux. An unforgettable moment. The larches started to become golden, green meadows, deep blue lake Sils with two very small islands, snow covered mountains, blue sky. It was truly hard to leave the Engadine after this week, not sure about what to expect in Montreux!<BR><BR>Indeed I did not fall in love with Montreux itself. Maybe my soul was still in Sils? Anyway, Montreux and the Grand Rue, in particular, is too noisy for me. I stayed in the hotel Masson, located in Veytaux (towards castle Chillon). It is one of the oldest hotels in Montreux, in original vaudoise style, very charming, breathtaking view of the lake from the garden, the terrace and some rooms (not mine). Next time I would not book inclusive half-board (four-course dinner, but no choice). Of course you have to consider that I had to pay less than 550 Sfr. for this week!<BR><BR>One of the days I did an excursion to Lausanne, visited the old town, took the covered stairs from Place de la Palud to the outstanding cathedral and climbed the cathedral’s tower. What a panoramic view! Later I went by train to Lutry, a little medieval town only a few km from Lausanne towards Vevey. I am assuming nobody of you folks has been there – you didn’t mention it. It is more a village than a town. Narrow streets with old houses, small and charming squares with fountains, a gothic (very) small castle and a beautiful gothic church. Fortunately it was the time (first days of Oct) when the cellars of the vine-grower’s houses were open and I could smell the flavour of the mash (the right word?).<BR><BR>Finally I entered the caveau. It is located in the middle of the small town, in a historic building – very charming, a vaulted large room with lots of original accessories of vine-growing. I enjoyed a free “Degustation” (tasting of wine), having some cheese, spicy sausages called “saucisson vaudoise” and bread for supper. The atmosphere was fantastic. The natives came there after work, talked, drank wine and did jokes. This place touched my heart! When the longing becomes too strong I open a bottle of the fine Pinot noir, bought in this caveau in Lutry …<BR><BR>Jw, concerning Ligerz, Twann and the Lake Biel I have to say I only saw it from the boat. The villages are suffering from the railway and the motorway, cutting them from the lake (except Ligerz, tunnel, and Erlach, southern side). If you want to stay there I recommend Ligerz or Erlach – St. Peter’s Island, Hostellerie J.J. Rousseau)<BR><BR>Ingo

jw

Hi Ingo! I'm so glad to read that there is a little bench with a view! <BR><BR>I, too, enjoy climbing those covered stairs to the cathedral in Lausanne. You know, I think Lausanne is such a beautiful town, and no one ever mentions it! I especially love Lausanne's train station! Is there still a bronze fountain of horses down near the harbor? <BR><BR>And yes, I have indeed been to Lutry -- don't know how I forgot to mention it. What a lovely little town! I think, if my memory is not amiss, that we walked from Lutry to Cully one afternoon. I always think of that chunky little Tour Bertholo! I wonder if you've visited the Lutry.ch website to rekindle your memories? It is one of my favorite sites, because it contains an entire set of aerial photographs! <BR><BR>I really think I could spend an entire month in the Lavaux! I've not yet begun to explore the towns on the other side of the lake, except for Nyon. I'd like to see if St. Prex is as pretty as its name. J.

Ursula

Ingo: Please do not ask me about snow conditions in St. Moritz for March. How should I know?? Not only did I see the picture in the NZZ, but I also saw pictures on TV. I hope for the best for you and anybody else going to the Engadine and other ski areas here. The Bernese Oberland isn't terrible either. <BR>Right now, sunny weather and again no snow in sight. The southern part of Switzerland just like northern Italy are suffering a lot from heavy smog. Incidentally, they have restrictions in Italy now to use your car. One day, even numbers, one day odd numbers. <BR>In the Lugano area, they are thinking of declaring the upcoming Sundays as car free days.<BR><BR>jw: A small town I really like is Yverdon-les-Bains on the south end of Lac de Neuchatel. Some other scenic villages in that part: Grandson (with a nice castle) and especially Estavayer-le-Lac, a little medieval town.

jw

Smog? Tell me it isn't so. As far as I'm concerned, however, they can ban cars altogether; I'm a happy train traveler. Oops, better keep those dandy postal buses.<BR><BR>Thanks Ursula for the additional towns! I'll look them up this weekend in my Phaidon Cultural Guide. I've seen photographs of the Grandson castle, and I've always intended to see it one day (You're not surprised that my list of good intentions just gets longer and longer and longer. I really must increase my calcium intake so . . .well you youngsters don't want to hear that.)<BR>J.

Ursula

Topping for Diane. You'll find info about the Hotel Waldhaus in Sils in this post (see above).<BR><BR>jw: It must be snowing right now about everywhere in the Alps. What a relief for them.<BR>And it rained in the Ticino as well.

jw

Hello! Two little questions to get our support thread back to the top: Has anyone visited the Villa Favorita in Castagnola near Lugano? I understand that it has a spectacular art collection, and I thought one or more of you might have visited it? Actually, I think we've mentioned a lakeside hotel there, so that might be a plus. Second question, when I visited Avenches for the day from Rivaz, I saw Lucens and its castle from the train. Anyone? J.

Ingo

Hi jw,<BR><BR>you are right, we mentioned two hotels in Castagnola near Villa Favorita: Fischer's Seehotel and Elvezia au lac.<BR>Unfortunately the best pictures have been moved to Spain (near Madrid). As far as I know the owners had some trouble with insurance, and the Swiss administration/government did not want to give money. So the family of Thyssen-Bornemisza made their decision. So I only visited the beautiful park.<BR><BR>I have never been in Avenches (and Lucens). Do you recommend A.?<BR><BR>When you are in this region, please don't miss Payerne and Romainmotier! Fantastic churches/abbey in Romanesque style. Romainmotier in particular is very well preserved and is a good example for the architecture of the leading monastery Cluny/France (destroyed) in medieval times.<BR><BR>Ingo

jw

Yes, Ingo, I think Avenches is worth a visit from any of the surrounding lakes. I've never been a great student of Roman history, but a friend wanted to see it so I went along. As you know, Avenches was the Roman Helvetia, and it has many artifacts including an amphitheatre. I really did find it interesting, and the town is pretty as well. Maybe a little visit to Lucens and to Avanches could be combined. Easy from lakes Murten or Neuchatel or Biel.<BR>Have you ever been to Solothurn? That is another town that I found to be a very pleasant experience. J.<BR><BR>So sorry to learn that I missed my chance to see the Villa Favorita collection. alas.

Ingo

Hi jw,<BR><BR>are you a fan of old pictures? There are so many other places in Switz with fantastic picture galleries/museums: Basel, Zurich and Winterthur f.e.<BR><BR>I did a short stop (2 hours) in Solothurn when I drove from home via Basel to Bern. I dislike the motorways and prefer the small roads. So I was not able to miss Solothurn. It is really beautiful. I was very impressed by the fortifications, the cathedral, clock tower etc. The location is lovely: between the river Aare and the Jura mountains. 2 hours are not a long time and I will come back once.<BR><BR>On the way home I stopped (2 hours) in Basel. Great city! I had a short look into the Munster church, the town hall and took one of the funny small ferries across the river Rhine. Of course it is a very noisy city, too. Not a place for me to stay for more than 2 days or so. But in case I stay nearby I definitely will go there again.<BR><BR>Ingo<BR>

jw

Yes, Ingo, Ursula has spoken about the museums and the Beyeler Foundation with such enthusiasm that I, too, am anxious to visit Basel -- even though, I most likely will try to stay in a small place away from the city itself. I do indeed like to visit art museums of any period, so would like to hear about your favorites. J.

ingo

hey all who are Switzerland experts!<BR><BR>There is a new thread "What would you do if it was you ..." about travelling in Sept 7 - 10 days. Flying into Zurich out of Venice or Rome. Waiting for your recommendations. s, what about M. ?<BR><BR>Ingo

s

Ingo -- <BR><BR>I did add my comments to that post as you suggested. However, it seems like such a standard answer: Lucerne or the BO, then the lakes, then Venice. I did include Spiez, Brienz, & Thun for consideration, but I don't have any personal recommendations for those places. Hope you guys can add something.<BR><BR>No, I didn't add M; I suspect that's an acquired taste. I also think it's not the place for one's first trip to Europe or one's first trip to Switzerland. It's just not "Heidi" enough.<BR><BR>s

Ursula

I saw the post, but I think it's very difficult to give good advice without knowing the personal taste of a person. The more specific a question, the better the answer.<BR>I think its best for everybody to do first some research to have an idea what can be done and then ask for more details.<BR>This is just my personal opinion, I don't want to sound rude or so.