Support Group for Those who Love Switzerland
 

It's just me. I thought I'd see what happens if I began a posting for those of us who are absolutely bonkers over Switzerland. That way, when I need a fix I can look for this thread instead of being an interloper on someone else's. I'd love to read about your favorite things to eat in Switzerland (gschnetzelts mit rosti in Zurich or Rapperswil, raclette in Chateau d'Oex, those little fish--perch?--in Brienz, Axel's canneloni in Gerra-Gambarogno, rigatoni with gorgonzola in Gandria, medallions of veal(?) in some sort of wine sauce in Rivaz, those round little buns with chocolate chips in them from the train station in Vevey or was it Montreux); or maybe we could write about the remarkably varied regional architecture; or our favorite cemeteries (the little one in Altdorf with a beautiful angel); or the smallest towns; or the cities nobody ever seems to mention (Solothurn? St. Gallen? Chur?(I'd love to read more about Chur because I've never been there); papercutting (the museum in Chateau d' blew me away), or paintings on the outsides of buildings (Stein-am-rhein, but also the lovely Madonnas in Ticino); or church fescoes (S. Maria degli Angioli in Lugano), or whatever. Museums? (I've added the Foundation Beyeler to my list thanks to Ursula); or maybe you could just tell me where I can buy Feldschlossen or Cardinale beer? My time's up, no doubt, and I should have been hard at work on school stuff 7 minutes ago, shame, shame. Love to you all. J.

What a fantastic idea, jw! I love to add some of my experiences.<BR><BR>I have seen you are experts on Lake Geneva region and Berner Oberland. So I would like to tell you something about Grisons/Graubunden, which is my favourite canton, the Engadin valley in particular, you already know about it.<BR><BR>Let’s have a short excursion to the Bregaglia valley today. It is the valley that leads you from the Upper Engadin (St. Moritz) to Chiavenna/Italy and the Lake Como. It is exactly on the route of the Palm Express (Bus) from St. Moritz to Lugano. The most famous village, one of the most beautiful in the Alps, is Soglio. It is situated close to the Italian border, on a terrace 300 m above the narrow bottom of the valley. Old houses made of granite stones, covered by granite plats standing close together are rimmed by flowers. Jw, you mentioned cemeteries. Soglio has one of the most beautiful situated cemeteries that I know. You feel like standing in heaven or, as the famous painter Giovanni Segantini said: Soglio e la soglia dal paradiso (Soglio is the door-step to paradise). Right over the valley a wall of granite mountains, famous for climbing, about 3300m alt., tower up to heaven, partly covered by snow and glaciers around them. There is still a different highlight in the village. The famous family of Salis (I can tell you f. e. Rodolphe Salis made Montmartre in Paris what it is famous for!) built 5 palaces in this village! One of them is a hotel since more than 100 years. And what a kind of hotel! It is totally old style, the most rooms are w/o bath, but it gives you such a feeling … The food is fantastic, the view from the rooms (ask for south facing) is breathtaking. And right behind the hotel there is a baroque garden with old trees, flowers blooming, and a caf&eacute; in it. Just take a cappuccino or a quarter of red Valtellina vine…<BR><BR>The vegetation around the village is a southern. You find the largest chestnut tree forest between Soglio and Castasegna although the altitude of Soglio is 1097 m. The reasons are the very warm and sunny climate and the south facing slopes. You must check out the fantastic chestnut (marroni) jam, it is delicious. And still an advice for a gift: in Castasegna and Soglio you find shops where “stone perfumes” are sold, made in Bregaglia valley. The flacons are made of granite stones and the perfume is made of flowers and other natural stuff.<BR><BR>The other villages in the valley are beautiful, too. They are connected by a historic trail. But there is a panoramic hiking trail on the northern side of the valley. It takes you 5 hours and leads you from Casaccia to Soglio. I did it several times and will do it again.<BR><BR>That’s it for today. I’d like to read one of your contributions. Maybe, jw, about Gerra? I’ve never been on the Gambarogno side of Lago Maggiore. Or the vineyards in Lavaux, s? I only know Lutry between Lausanne and Vevey.<BR><BR>I think next time I am going to add something about Chur if you are interested in.<BR><BR>Jw, I am happy to hear you appreciate my responses. Yes, I think we are really addicted to Switzerland. But there are good reasons for it!!!<BR><BR>Bye Ingo<BR>

Good afternoon, would like to share some<BR>memories of CH. <BR>1. Dinner at the Splugenschloss in Zurich with lake perch and spinach.<BR>2.The Rosti at Kleine Scheidegg along<BR>with the brauerwurst.<BR>3. Rugensbrau in Grindelwald.<BR>4. The old open two seater gondolas on<BR>Grindelwald First with the brown canvas<BR>overcoats..<BR>5.The steamers on Lake Zurich, Lake Geneva, Lake Lucerne, Breizersee, and<BR>Thunnersee. when the mountains were not<BR>receptive to visiting their peaks.<BR>6.Walking DOWN from Schwarsee meeting<BR>everyone going up!!!!<BR>7.The incredible quiet on the Bahnhofstrasse during Christmas time<BR>in Zurich. Along with the shops along<BR>the Bahnoffstrasse and the HB...<BR>8. On one trip had reservations at the<BR>Rigi Klum hotel wanting to see the sun<BR>rise that Mark Twain had mentioned in <BR>Inocents Abroad. However Room was freezing and heat unknown, left for<BR>Zurich shortly that afternoon.<BR>7.Going to an ATM machine in Zurich <BR>after arriving from IT and trying to<BR>remove 400,000 SF on my credit card.<BR>8. Last but not least Sprungli and<BR>Tuescher, wow...<BR>Richard of LaGrange Park, Il...<BR>

jw & Ingo,<BR>Wow, great, great images!<BR><BR>Richard: The ATM story is priceless! How funny! I also wish you would take each of your entries and expand it with more sights & sounds & smells & details of the experience (yup, my teaching mode taking over). They just sound too good to rush through!<BR><BR>Ingo -- Unfortunately (or fortunately for you), I'm pretty much in the rushing stage getting ready for my departure for Salzburg tomorrow. I can't concentrate on the Lavaux right now, though I feel certain I can do a fairly complete job when I return. But what a great thread. I'm sure you guys will have more tales completed so that I'll want to go right back as soon as I'm home.<BR><BR><BR>s

This is great! Bon Voyage, s! More later, Ingo and Richard. Many thanks! J.

I've just read again your wonderful notes about your favorite places and best memories. Ingo, I have often read about the beauty of Soglio! I have a friend who collects perfume bottles; she will be very interested in the granite flacons. Richard, I see that we both treasure culinary memories, and those wonderful steamers--my favorites are on Brienzersee and the Vierwaldstatterss.<BR>You know, Ingo, there is not much to write about Gerra, except that it absolutely matches my personal requirements for a place to stay! It is a very small village clutching the steep slopes of Lago Maggiore's eastern side. The buildings between the road and the water seem to almost be stacked upon each other. I think they are mostly of stone or cement blocks with stucco applied to the outside (plaster?) -- some are painted in colors of cream or salmon or tan, and they have red tile roofs. The porches and terraces are covered with grape vines in June and the flowers and trees are mostly southern. If you sit on one of the small balconies of the Albergo Panorama, you are just above the tile roofs of a few houses, and palm trees, and then there is the beautiful water and Brissago and its hills beyond. It is beautiful in the rain and at sunrise and sunset, but my favorite time is twilight when everything turns blue-violet and the lights of Brissago and Ascona flicker in the distance. Wow. I think there are only two small hotels in Gerra--the Panorama and the Portico--I have stayed with the Klomanns at the Panorama twice. I used my Swiss Pass to visit Lugano, Locarno, Gandria, Morcote, Ascona, and Brissago's garden isle. Next time, I would like to venture farther to more remote places. Can anyone recommend interesting villages in the vicinity? Someday, I'll be brave enough to rent a car so I can drive along the Italian shores of Lago Maggiore. Giornico, perhaps? I'm embarrassed to say I never even spent time in Bellinzona, but I will. Looking forward to reading about Chur! J.

typing faster than my brain can change directions -- in case you are wondering -- Giornico is on the rail route north of Bellinzona; isn't that the little town with interesting churches and stone bridges? I've only seen it from the train. J.

Jw, your report reminds me of wonderful times in Ticino, thanks. I stayed in Locarno and Lugano. I loved it. The sunset in particular is incomparable. Do you know there are webcams? Sometimes I have a look: Ascona, Locarno Monti … and Poschiavo, too. http://www.ticino-tourism.ch/control<BR><BR>Would you recommend the Albergo Panorama in Gerra? And is public transport as well as it usually is in Switzerland?<BR><BR>Bellinzona is a must. Recently the castles became UNESCO world heritage of mankind! And in my opinion it has the most authentic italian/lombardian atmosphere in Ticino. Go there on a Saturday, when the market takes place in the morning. The village of Giornico has lost its atmosphere (motorway and railway) but the church of San Nicola is a must. The Romanesque sculptures are unique, the frescos are very impressive with intensive colours and of outstanding quality. They are similar to the frescos in San Carlo in Negrentino/Val Blenio.<BR><BR>Richard, I agree with s, your reply sounds good, but too short. I would like to read more.<BR><BR>s, wish you a nice time in Salzburg. Looking forward for your Lavaux report.<BR><BR>I promised some words about Chur. It is the capital of the canton Graubunden/Grisons and is claimed to be the oldest town in Switzerland – founded 5000 years ago. Being a tourist you cannot find anything dating from these old times. On first sight Chur is a little reserved and dark, not inviting you like Lugano f. e. You have to earn the love to this town. The old part is in a very good condition. On a hill (south facing it is a vineyard) you find the residence of the Bishop, the late Romanesque cathedral and a palace. The cathedral is famous for its gothic altar, the crypt with Romanesque sculptured pillars and the treasure. Somewhere inside the cathedral there must be the tomb of Jurg Jenatsch (I recommend to read the novel ”Jurg Jenatsch” by Conrad Ferdinand Meyer), the national hero of Grisons. I never found it - only the Bishop’s tombs. Maybe you are more successful. A short walking distance above the cathedral there is a special highlight: the former monastery’s church St. Luzius, partly rebuilt after a fire in 1811. You can see a Romanesque crypt dating from 1150 and a crypt from the first half of 8th century with the tomb of Grisons’ patron St. Luzius.<BR><BR>Below the Bishop’s hill you find the old town with narrow streets, small squares (Arcas!), old houses, some of them with frescos, and a partly preserved fortification wall with two (?) towers. You must walk around, shopping and try the fantastic cosy restaurants and cafes. Have you ever had Capuns, Maluns or Gerstensuppe (barley soup with bacon etc.) and a red wine from the Bundner Herrschaft (Maienfeld, Malans)? I promise you will never forget such a meal. The atmosphere is unique. I could imagine what happened centuries ago, traders meeting on their way over the Alps.<BR><BR>When you fed up with the town it is easy to relax in the surrounding mountains. A cable car starts in the middle of the town and takes you to Brambruesch, where walking paths and hiking trails are starting. You can go by the Rhaetian railway and buses to almost every famous place in Grisons (Engadin, Davos, Arosa, Flims-Laax etc.) within 1 to 2.5 hours.<BR><BR>Bye for today Ingo<BR>

To whom it may concern:<BR>Just recalled another dinner which was<BR>extremely long but very interesting. It<BR>occurred in Lugano just off the Pza<BR>at the base of the funicular coming <BR>down to the railroad station. From our<BR>hotel in the same square we could see<BR>this ristorante SAYANORA, which I took<BR>for a Japanese Sushi house., and as we<BR>entered they had a large automatic kettle mixing the local polenta. and <BR>realized it was an pizzera and ristornte.<BR>No wanting pizza we went over the the<BR>ristorante section, sat and noticed <BR>on the walls posted was the announcement<BR>of a Cornucopia (bad spelling) dinner<BR>being served that evening, so we tried.<BR>It started with a antipasto appetizer,<BR>followed by a small bown of Minestrone,<BR>followed with sufficent time between<BR>coursed to drink and enjoy, then can<BR>three spaced pasta courses, followed by<BR>a meat, fish and chicken dishes, desserts, and expresso. Was very<BR>pleasant suprise, however even with all<BR>that food their timing in presentation<BR>gave you time to enjoy the next coarse.<BR>Richard of LaGrange Park, Ill..<BR>

If Fred Schalgel of Thalwil sees this please post a reply. Let us know how you are doing and that you are well. The old gang of the G.I.T. are thinking of you and recalling the great times we had trekking about Europe.

I like this idea.<BR> I love those trains and there puctuality.I love Zurich train station.<BR>I like to eat hard roll and sosauge on<BR> the streets and I love that beer.O yeah the scenery too. T

I suppose s' is on his way. Bon Voyage, kiddo. Yes, Ingo, I heartily recommend the Hotel Panorama in Gerra. But you must know that my frame of reference is a very tight budget. Two-star hotels are the grandest I can manage in Switzerland. (I looked at Casa-Battista on the net, and that is way out of my reach.) Now having said that, Albergo Panorama is the best small hotel I've ever had the pleasure to visit. To say that it is well-maintained would be an understatement. It is very comfortable and quiet, Hanni and Axel Klomann are gracious hosts, the evening meals are delicious, and the view from their small vine-covered terrace in June is priceless. Train connections are, I think, every other hour, with buses filling in between. The trains do not run late into the evening, however. There are lake boats which stop at the Gerra boat station, and I did enjoy using them (even though I'm sorry to say they were not covered by my Swiss Pass because they are Italian companies.) Whenever I have a difficult day at school and/or feel overwhelmed, I think about sitting on the Albergo's terrace with a glass of wine, and I'm absolutely transported. That's my best recommendation.<BR><BR>p.s. I'd like to hear more about the 'historic trail' between the villages of the Bregaglia Valley. Is it 'doable' (as Fodors posters say) by a rickety old school teacher? J.

Jw, thanks for your post on Gerra and the Albergo Panorama. It sounds good, so I will probably go there in April.<BR><BR>The historic trail in the Bregaglia Valley is more a walking path than a hiking trail – if you do not start in Maloja. You should start in Vicosoprano and finish in Bondo. Depending on how many sights you are watching/visiting you can do it on one, two or three days. The next bus stop is never far away for the case you were tired (although I do not believe you were “rickety”). Do not miss the museum in Stampa, the castle Palazzo Castelmur in Coltura, the church Nossa Dunna and the fortification ruins above Promontogno and the garden of the Palazzo Salis in Bondo. It is a private Palazzo but sometimes the owner gives his permission to visit.<BR><BR>Concerning the accommodation, did you consider Albergo Corona in Vicosoprano, Hotel Pension Sciora and Hotel Bregaglia in Promontogno, Hotel Stua Granda and Pension Murias in Soglio? These are historic buildings with good atmosphere in traditional style (I only heard it and got recommendations from others) and should be in your price range.<BR><BR>Ingo<BR>

Hi Ingo, The historic trail sounds wonderful, if it is indeed suitable for unathletic souls (no pun intended). I'm going to try to do some searching to see if I can find a map of the trail on the net, or ask one of the tourist offices to mail one to me. (I do love receiving those chubby envelopes filled with brochures and maps--I think I'll ask them to mail it to me at school -- what a delight to find that in my faculty mailbox instead of committee memos and notices of deadlines. By the way, the albergo has a website at hotel-panorama.ch. Before I forget, I think I did an impardonable thing at another thread this morning: Someone is asking about Interlaken and Ticino for an October trip --(did you see it?)--and I mentioned the flooding at Lago Maggiore about a year ago (think it was October). Please check it out and reassure the poster and me. Thanks!<BR><BR>I know you're waiting for s' to write about the Lavaux, but let me take a minute to tell you that the walking trail through the vineyards above St. Saphorin and Rivaz is another one of my favorite memories. J.

topping!

jw, have you seen that Bregaglia valley has an English website? I found the description of the historic trail. http://www.bregaglia.ch/sentieri_storico.asp?language=2<BR><BR>Wish you lots of fun with it!<BR><BR>Ingo<BR><BR>

The Bregaglia site is indeed a fine one, Ingo! Excellent map and such photographs! Their PR people are doing a smashing job. I never would have found the site w/o your recommendation. Shhhhh, don't tell too many people, or your favorite part of Switzerland will become too popular! By the way, tell me please about the UNESCO world heritage of mankind. You've mentioned that with regard to several places, and I am not familiar with 'world heritage of mankind'. The UN is obviously honoring certain landmarks, yes? But is this a new project? J.

http://www.lavaux.ch/sentier2.htm<BR><BR>Here's a nice little map of the Lavaux with its caveaux/appelations designated. I know very little about the finer points of wine, but the walk through the vineyards (in red, I think) was a treat -- a bit of wine tasting was fun, too. Did I say that St. Saphorin is an extraordinary old village? <BR>http://www.hospvd.ch/public/eccmid/lavaux.html Here's a photo to give you a walking-path's eye view. Looks like June to me, and I think I can see my little hotel way, way, way in the distance. J.

My friend and I are planning a 3 week trip in March to Switzerland and Italy. We have an idea of a few places we would like to visit, and things we would like to do, (Bernina Express, Interlacken) but other than that, we are trying to find a nice little town to spend time in Switzerland, close to Italy. After reading you comments on Gerra (which is not in my lonely planet book) I am interested in that area. But everyone seems to visit this place in the summer months. Is it going to be worth a trip in the beginning of March? Do you have any recommendations for this time of year? Can you get by on English in this area? <BR><BR>thank you,<BR>Tara

Hi Tara, Happy to have an opportunity to enthuse about Gerra, however, if you've read other threads, you know that I love quiet places. Gerra is indeed that. It is on the rail line, though, which makes it good for those not driving (you can hop a train to the Italian portion of Lago Maggiore and beyond; I understand Lake Orta is gorgeous.) I'm not sure if the Albergo Panorama opens for the season at the beginning of March or the middle -- the website is hotel-panorama.ch. There's another little hotel called Al Portico, and you can find it listed at Gambarognoturismo.ch. The young man who was helping out at the albergo on our last trip, told us that Ascona was the place to have a good time. So you might want to check it out, though if you're not driving, it is accessible by lakeboat and bus from Locarno. Ditto Brissago, which is another lovely place on the opposite shore from Gerra. Now, if you are interested in Lugano's lake rather than Maggiore, you might consider Gandria or Morcote, which are both fascinating little places (again, via boat or bus). Or I've been hearing a lot of nice things about Bellinzona, just up the rail line from Lugano (excellent rail hub), and it has 4 castles. There are a number of Swiss fans who visit this site regularly, so I'm certain you'll be able to get more (and younger) input from them. If you don't receive it at this thread, you might start your own with the question "small places in Ticino" or something like that. Three weeks sounds like heaven. I'm so envious! You can get along in English anywhere in Switzerland; however, be willing to try phrases in Italian or French or German if you can. J.