Melnq8

It was really strange Ingo because only the trail had ice...and lots of it. No snow or ice anywhere else!

Would you be so kind as to translate those signs for me? I'm still trying to figure out if we were somewhere we shouldn't have been.

Melnq8

December 25 – Christmas our way

After verifying that they’d be open, we’d set today aside for Hof Zuort, Switzerland’s most remote historic hotel situated in an alpine triangle consisting of Austria, Switzerland and Italy.

We took the bus to Ramosch Fermada (Sunday bus schedule due to holiday), then caught the connecting bus up to Vna, saving us a very steep five kilometer trek. Vna lies in a remote side valley of the Lower Engadine; had we not learned about it last year from Ingo, we'd not know it existed.

Once in Vna, we walked through the tiny village and on to Hof Zuort, some three miles (1:15); the views lovely, the snow sparse. Here we enjoyed a relaxing lunch of barley soup, raclette and various beverages in their small rustic restaurant (53 CHF). A nice long chat with the proprietor revealed that the road to Val Sinestra and Sent was open, enabling us to make a walking loop instead of backtracking to Vna.

So, we set out through the woods via a steep and snow-covered mountain path, eventually reaching the road above (the walking track is closed in winter due to its suspension bridges). Little did we know that we’d be walking for another 2.5 hours.

The gravel road was a sheet of ice and damaged in some areas by falling rocks. The holiday resort of Val Sinestra eventually came into view below us; we toyed with stopping to investigate, but decided to forge on. About the time I began to question if we were on the right track, several hotel buses loaded with people passed us going in the direction of the resort. We walked...and walked...and walked...the scenery got better and better, we now had expansive views of snow-covered mountains and a tiny village hugging the hillside off to our left. It was starting to get dark, I was worried we’d never get to Sent, but six miles later we did, both thoroughly worn out.

We located the bus stop in Sent; the bus was there, surrounded by people waiting to board, but the driver wouldn’t open the doors, so we all stood out in the frigid cold for quite a while, much relieved when he finally let us board.

Back in Scuol, dinner was at Hotel Bellaval, which we’d booked the previous day. I was expecting it to be busy, but other than a group in the next room and two people near us the restaurant was empty. Bill went for the steak tartare, liking this version better than Hotel Altana’s. For me it was the salad bar and another bowl of their sinful Bunder Gerstensuppe, delicious! (68 CHF with drinks).

A large candle burning outside our door welcomed us back to our cozy digs. Verena had left us a Tuorta Da Nusch (similar to a small pecan pie encased in short crust); we heated it in the oven and it was divine! She’d also left us a red holiday candle; we fired it up and collapsed, thankful to have such a thoughtful host.

Photos here:

https://www.flickr.com/photos/melnq8...7650182560217/

To be continued...

Ingo

As for the translation:

"CAUTION! The winter hiking trails are partially icy."

The next two mark a groomed cross-country skiing track and ask for:

"Walkers! Please walk beside the groomed track!"

"Request to the walkers: Please use the hiking trail!"

Funny with no snow around at all

Ingo

Finally something good that came out of lack of snow. But that gravel road is indeed long ... not that the hiking trail via the suspension bridges would have saved you much time. It was quite a walk even in summer!

The village on the other side of the valley is Vna, btw.

I.

Melnq8

Thanks Ingo.

Vna huh? I'd not have guessed that - it looked so far away.

I'd read references to the track being 'a direct route' so just assumed it was shorter.

Melnq8

December 26 – Falling in love with Pizoccals

We caught the 8:34 train to Zernez and the connecting bus to Val Mustair, timing our journey around the opening times of the Benedictine Convent of St John, the main attraction of the village (10-12, 1:30-4:30 in December, closed Christmas and Sunday mornings). The hour long drive from Zernez was absolutely gorgeous; we wound along narrow roads through Switzerland’s only National Park, surrounded by deep snow and looming mountains, the many switchbacks reminding me of last year’s bus ride to Soglio.

Upon reaching freezing cold Val Mustair, we went directly to the convent, a UNESCO World Heritage Site and the sole reason for our visit. The convent doesn’t offer regular tours in English, but we were content to explore the fascinating well-preserved ancient Roman frescos of the church on our own. We also wandered the cemetery, but chose not to visit the museum.

Afterwards, we roamed through the village, frigid air immediately chasing us into the first open business we found, 700 year old Hotel Chalavaina. We entered a dark room that felt an awful lot like a dungeon, momentarily wondering if we’d wandered into someone’s house, but finding a tiny drinks serving area with a few tables. After warming up with coffee, we set out to further explore Mustair, walking through the village and admiring the countryside. Stomachs growling, we sought out Hotel Helvetia, a kja recommendation (thank you!)

The house specialty was pizoccals and although we had no idea what they were, Bill was curious enough to order them. Oh. My. God. One taste and I immediately regretted not getting a plate for myself. They were absolutely fabulous; little pockets of melt-in-your-mouth heaven, a light gnocchi/pasta-like creation covered in cream, butter and bits of air dried beef and sausage. Eating them was almost a religious experience.

I ordered barley soup, which was good, but man those pizoccals – incredible. So far we’d had pretty good luck randomly selecting local Pinot Noir from menus, so we did it again, choosing a small bottle of Jeninser, which was lovely (total for lunch with wine 55 CHF).

Short on time, we asked for the check and raced to the bus stop, only to find that we’d misread the schedule and there wouldn’t be one for an hour. So, we sheepishly returned to Hotel Helvetia, plunked down at the same table and ordered more wine. Our lovely waitress seemed amused and she surprised us with a complimentary plate of delicious homemade cookies.

We retraced our steps to Zernez via that beautiful bus ride, caught the train back to Scuol, and then made another run at those confusing washing machines.

Photos here:

https://www.flickr.com/photos/melnq8...7650552021436/

To be continued...

kja

Again, I'm so glad you enjoyed the pizoccals at Hotel Helvetia -- you've described the experience quite nicely! With food like that and the convent's stunning frescos and breathtaking scenery -- definitely a place worth seeing!

Ingo

Love the pictures of the dog in the bag. LOL! And of course the Pizzocals ... had my first ones in Poschiavo (that's where the buckwheat for them comes from) and they were also delicious. The ingredients alone taste wonderful (salsiz, dried beef meat e.g.) but all mixed together as Pizzocals they are to die for.

Too bad you didn't visit the museum. Very interesting and really old stuff to see.

tomarkot

Melnq8, we're away from home now and not following Fodor's as much. Just wanted you to know that we're keeping up with your trip, and enjoying it. Your pics are beautiful.
Whereas you left Perth because of the intense heat and wanted a cold place, we left the cold of our hometown to get into a warm climate. Will continue to follow your ventures.

Melnq8

kja and Ingo - I'm definitely a Pizzocal convert!

I hope you're off having fun somewhere tomarkot and glad to hear you're still tuned in. As so often happens, I seem to be losing my trip report writing mojo.

---------------------------------
December 27 – The snow gods get busy

We bid adieu to Verena and dragged our luggage back though the now frozen meadow. The morning was very cold, the skies overcast, the mountains completely socked in with fog. We boarded the 8:40 train bound for Landquart, the snow gods finally answering Scuol’s pleas for the white stuff; the skies had opened but good.

We chugged through the world’s longest narrow gauge railway tunnel, the 19 kilometer long Vereina, emerging on the other side into the winter wonderland of Klosters. After Landquart our trains were quite busy; we continued on to Zurich and Bern, eventually boarding a train to Zweisimmen.

A conductor came into our carriage and made an announcement we didn’t understand. We didn’t think much of it until an unfamiliar notation on the display screen set off our alarm bells. Enlisting the help of a co-passenger (who did an admirable job of helping with his limited English) we learned that the train would split at Spiez...we were on the wrong carriage... we’d have to get off at Spiez and re-board the other end of the train. Oops.

Crisis averted, we arrived in Zweisimmen some 5.5 hours after leaving Scuol, boarded a final train and were deposited in the tiny community of Blankenburg some three minutes later, in the midst of a near blizzard.

Unsure where our apartment was, Bill stayed with the luggage while I went to investigate; locating it five minutes later at the top of a hill (surprise!). I returned to the station and we made the short ascent, our suitcases feeling a lot like backwards snowplows as we dragged them through a foot of freshly fallen powder, not knowing whether to laugh or to curse.

We’d booked Bolzli Hus via the Gstaad Tourism website, paying in full at time of booking (1200 CHF for seven nights, plus 48 CHF for mandatory cancellation insurance).

The apartment is on the ground floor of a home owned by Tomas and Jrene. They’ve done a fabulous job of turning a small space off their garage and mud room into a luxurious one bedroom apartment. In addition to providing coat and shoe storage, the alcove near the private entrance came in quite handy for one of our suitcases, freeing up a bit more space in the compact apartment. We were offered drying racks in the mud room for our shoes and wet clothing, much needed and appreciated.

Immaculate and finished to a very high standard, the apartment is fresh, comfortable and exceptionally well equipped. The spacious bathroom has a deep tub and plenty of towels, the kitchen has a small dishwasher and Nespresso machine (woo-hoo!) and the television...hundreds of channels, even some in English! The windows have electric shutters to keep out light (not a worry in December!) Once we figured out how best to utilize the limited space, we were quite comfortable. The only thing we had trouble with was the internet, which was slow, when it even bothered to connect.

http://booking.gstaad.ch/gstfewo/en/...c59743040642/q

As mentioned earlier, we chose Blankenburg as a quiet, less expensive alternative to Gstaad and for its proximity to Zweisimmen, the gateway to the Gstaad-Sannenland region. Zweisimmen is also the starting point of the Montreux-Bernese Oberland rail line.

Settled, we walked through the snow to Zweisimmen (15 minutes), popping into the first restaurant we found (Hotel Post across from the train station). They weren’t serving dinner yet, so we settled for drinks, the bad-tempered bartender making us feel so unwelcome that we avoided this establishment for the remainder of our stay.

We trudged through the deep snow to buy provisions at the Coop, then had a lovely early dinner at the neighboring Residence Hotel; bratwurst with rosti and onion sauce for Bill, rosti with tomato, spinach and cheese for me, followed by a shared order of apfelstrudel with ice cream. The food was delicious and filling, the service prompt and friendly, an excellent and totally random choice (68 CHF with drinks).

Snow still falling like crazy, we walked back to the train station and returned to our cozy digs.

To be continued...

nz101

Loving your report - especially as we were over there too for Christmas, was fantastic. I am inspired now to write a trip report !!

Have to say though that NZ wins prize for most isolated place, 12 hours up to Asia, then at least another 12 to 13 from there to Europe. Its a killer. ))

Melnq8

Yeah, I think you win that one nz101 - we're headed your way in a couple of days and hoping it's not too hot

nz101

Meinq8, its not hot at all, where abouts are you headed? Im in Auckland and found it a little on the cool side today and even put my track pants on this evening - horrors of horrors - as its still summer!! Looks like it will be about 24 deg over the weekend here. Will you be in the north or south?

Melnq8

Cool is good!

We'll be in Martinborough and Wellington, then down to Wanaka and Arrowtown.

I'd been told NZ has had a hotter than usual summer this year and considering we're going specifically to get out of Perth during our most miserable month, I was concerned.

Although hot in NZ isn't the same as hot in Australia (30c vs 40+).

Melnq8

December 28 – Schnee, schnee, schnee!

We woke to more snow than we’d seen in a very long time; I had to fight the urge to run outside and roll around in it.

After consulting the train schedule, we walked down the hill and boarded a train to Lenk, situated in the Simmental Valley, 15 minutes from Blankenburg at the end of the railway line.

Wow, what a beautiful place, all the more so under a heavy blanket of fresh powder. We sought out the tourist office to enquire about walks, a helpful employee suggesting we stick to the valley; the mountain trails weren’t yet groomed due to the onslaught of snow.

Bill’s boots are waterproof, mine aren’t, so I bought some small plastic bags at the Coop, put them on over my socks and after some puttering around we set out on the Helsana Trail, an easy walk through the valley, the track busy with like-minded folk out enjoying the fresh snow. We had to laugh at one particular young woman who was texting on her mobile phone while snowshoeing, seemingly oblivious to the stunning surroundings.

Noticing a sign for Restaurant Alpenrosli, we left the trail and worked our way uphill through the deep powder, but turned around when it became clear that the restaurant, if it were even open, was a long way UP.

Back on the Helsana Trail, we looped our way back to Lenk alongside the river, logging about four miles before we began our daily search for an inviting place to eat.

We settled on Hotel Hirchen Bistro, as much for its bilingual menu as anything, and as it turned out, yet another good choice. We were beginning to think that every restaurant in Switzerland must be good, as we’d not yet had a bad meal.

Bill was still in a wurst mood, so he ordered grilled bratwurst with rosti and onion sauce. I went directly for calorie-laden comfort, Aelplermakkronen. How do you make macaroni and cheese even more fattening? Add potatoes, ham, cream sauce and fried onions. Man it was good, and seriously stick-to-the-arse-guilt-inducing. Toss in a glass of Maienfelder wine and a Weizenbier and we were happy campers (52 CHF, excellent food, friendly service).

It got colder and colder. We considered taking the train to Gstaad, but we’d not yet sorted out the logistics, so we retraced our steps to Blankenburg to relax and plot our course for the next day.

Photos here:

https://www.flickr.com/photos/melnq8...7650225603970/

To be continued...

Ingo

It looks soooo much more romantic with snow! Food sounds and looks yummy again. Love Lenk!

Adelaidean

Love your report. Another scorcher today (41C), so enjoying the snow pictures.
Pizzocals sound great, excellent comfort food. I remember ordering what I thought was a hot pasta dish in Germany and getting a cold smoked salmon/ horseradish cream mousse and salad (fortunately delectable). Obviously my German not nearly as good as I thought.

Melnq8

December 29 –Chocolate, cheese, a castle, twisted brilliance and a staggering amount of snow

It was -10 c (14F) when we walked down the hill to the station and boarded the 7:52 train to Zweisimmen. Once there, we boarded a Golden Pass Panoramic train (sitting on the right as suggested by kja) and settled in to admire the spectacular views as we wound our way above Blankenburg and alongside the Rinderburg gondola. The scenery became considerably more dramatic as we approached Gstaad, the Alps stunning.

We changed trains in Montboven, wooden chalets replaced with stone buildings, the mountains now distant, our surroundings so different than from the start of the journey that we felt as if we’d left Switzerland. In Bulle, the signage, now in French, informed us of a nine minute ‘retard’ (delay); the buses were no longer the familiar yellow of the Swiss Post bus, but now sported the TPF emblem of the Transport Publics Fribourgeois.

Some two hours after leaving Blankenburg we arrived at Broc-Fabrique, home to the Maison-Cailler chocolate factory, which we could see as soon as the train began its descent into town.

Within minutes we’d walked to the factory and purchased tickets for the English tour (10 CHF each). This is one slick operation – interactive tours are conducted steadily in small groups of various languages. It’s a well oiled machine, the epitome of Swiss efficiency, really well done.

We thoroughly enjoyed ourselves here, and not just because we were let loose in the tasting room at the end of the tour, although that certainly didn’t hurt (note to future visitors, don’t fill up on the samples given in the production room, because there’s plenty more to come, of every variety imaginable).

We eventually made our way to the showroom, full to the gills with chocolate lovers awaiting their tours – we couldn’t believe how busy the place had become, especially considering it was near empty when we arrived. After a few purchases, we worked our way to the café’ – more to kill time before our train than because we were still craving chocolate. Unable to pass up a cup of hot chocolate at a chocolate factory (it had to be good, no?) we continued the chocolate orgy – I ordered the dark, so thick and rich that it was almost solid – I adore chocolate, I truly do, but it seems I’d met my chocolate match. The whites of my eyes had turned brown, I was finally chocolated-out, too full to finish.

Bill ordered the milk hot chocolate, disappointingly uninspired and bog-standard – in a chocolate factory no less! Sadly the café experience was diminished by the use of paper cups instead of proper mugs (9.60 CHF).

Stomach bulging, Cailler shopping bag in tow, it was back to the station to board a train to Bulle and then on to Gruyeres. It was time for cheese.

After getting our bearings in Gruyeres, we worked our way UP to Chateau du Gruyere via an incredibly icy walkway, clinging to the handrail and trying to stay upright, keeping one eye on the poor dude in front of us sliding uncontrollably in his street shoes, lest he need us to catch him as he slid down the hill. We had to wonder why they’d not rocked/salted the walkway; it was seriously dangerous and there were no shortage of after-Christmas visitors struggling to climb it.

Safely at the top, we were pleasantly surprised; we’d expected a castle, but we had no idea there was an entire medieval town up here! Wow, this was my kind of place. We wandered the cobblestone streets soaking up the ambiance. We spent a few hours exploring the fascinating castle and courtyard representing eight centuries of history (free with Swiss Pass). The snow was really coming down, so thick we could barely see the surrounding countryside.

As we left the castle, Bill was drawn to some nearby sculptures and the name HR Giger, which he recognized from somewhere...soon we were entering the dark, sexually graphic world of HR Giger, one of the weirdest museums we’ve ever visited (also free with Swiss Pass). HR Giger is best known for his award winning work in the Alien movies, and evidently he was a man obsessed with mayhem, machines and orifices. Just wow.

It was near 3 pm, generally well past kitchen closing time in Switzerland, but we were warmly welcomed into the near deserted Auberge de la Halle and seated at a window table, where we settled in for some serious eating and snow watching. The snow was piling up at an alarming rate, making us wonder if we’d be spending the night in Gruyeres (we later learned this was the same fierce snowstorm that brought France to its knees).

You can’t go to Gruyeres and not eat cheese; I ordered the all-you-can-eat raclette, shocked when our waitress brought out bread, a large basket of small potatoes, small dishes of gherkins and pickled onions and a MASSIVE chunk of cheese (27 CHF). Did she really think I could eat all of that? It was immediately clear that I should forgo the potatoes and bread and concentrate on the cheese, pickles and onions.

Bill ordered the macaronis de chalet made with Gruyere and fried onions (18 CHF). Add a small bottle of Pinot Noir (22 CHF) and we were happy. And yes, I’m ashamed to admit that I did manage to eat that entire block of cheese! It was delicious. Bill was kind enough to operate the raclette warmer for me, keeping a steady flow of melted cheese coming my way in exchange for a nibble here and there. I asked the waitress how much cheese I’d just consumed (she said maybe 200-300 gm, she had just cut a slice off a big wheel) and if many people took them up on the offer for more; apparently they did, the small woman seated near us had done exactly that. Where on earth she put it is anyone’s guess.

After more wine and snow watching, we eventually tore ourselves away from our very cozy spot and walked back through the medieval village, nicely lit for Christmas. Several families were out playing in the freshly fallen snow, kids squealing as they sledded down the hill in the dark; the atmosphere fun and festive. We lost our bearings and had to ask someone how to get off the hill, surprised for the millionth time how easy it is to communicate in Switzerland and envious of those who can speak so many languages.

We retraced our steps...slowly...thanks to a delayed train in Montboven (30 minutes this time), freezing until someone finally unlocked the warm waiting room at the station. Our tardy train finally arrived, the conductor frantically emerging and profusely apologizing, evidently the relentless snow was wreaking havoc.

Some 12 hours since setting out we were back in Blankenburg, tired, content and very full.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/melnq8...7650586587136/

To be continued...

Melnq8

Off to NZ in a few hours, will have to put this report on hold until I get back.

swandav2000

Still enjoying this, especially your description of Gruyeres. I love that town, have visited maybe 4 to 6 times. One of my favorite spots is the cemetery behind the town.

Thanks for writing!

s