summer in Lyon

Old Mar 7th, 2005, 04:14 PM
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summer in Lyon

Hi!
I just decided to spend the summer taking class (in English) through my school in Lyon. I'll have 3 day weekends to travel. Does anyone have any tips on where to go and what to do and eat. I've been to Paris before but not to anyplace else in France. Any advice is greatly appreciated!
Thanks!
Jessica
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Old Mar 7th, 2005, 05:06 PM
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Oh Jessica are you in for dining delights! Lyon is the gastronomy capital of France. The traditional "bouchons" are great places to have a meal.

I was in Lyon May of 2004 & 2003. It's a great city.

I've had wonderful meals at the restaurants owned by the Chabert et Fils family on r. Marrionniers. This street is one to the east of Place Bellecour on the Presqu'Ile. Also on that street is the restaurant Marrionniers. The pike quennelles there are exquisite.

Brasserie Georges near the Perrache train station is a huge old brasserie that has great Alsatian sausage platters with sauerkraut and other stuff too.

Make sure you try "le communard" it's like a kir: crème de cassis mixed with beaujolais wine. My guidebook said the combo was considered "criminal" anywhere else in France. I thought it a bit sweet but worth trying.

Another local oddity is "cervelle de canut" meaning "brains of the silk weaver." It's not made of brains I guess it was named that way because the silk weavers ate it day in and day out until they were crazy. It's like eating chive potato chip dip. Not my favorite but maybe next time I'll order it with potato chips and watch the locals stare.

Do me a favor and try to find the Centre d'Histoire de la Résistance et de la Déportation. It's over the Rhône to the east of Perrache train station. It's a WWII museum I tried to find twice but never could. Both times had to be on holidays so that may have been part of the problem.

The Fine Arts Museum, the Decorative Arts Museum and the Textile Museum are all excellent. The Old Town around Fourvière is a Unesco World Heritage Site. Explore the Traboules (passages) that the old silk weavers would use to go between the buildings. The city has many trompe-l'oiel murals painted on the sides of buildings.

The Sunday morning market in Place Carnot on the north side of the Perrache train station is excellent. I was lucky that both times the puppy/kitten market was on the west side. They were so cute. I'm not sure it runs every weekend.

Here's a link to my trip report from last May. I wasn't such a good Fodorite and don't have a trip report from the previous year.

http://www.fodors.com/forums/threads...2&tid=34498288

This link for photos is still active:

http://www.ofoto.com/I.jsp?c=c8dih6q...r&x=0&y=e6d4su

OK when you're tired of Lyon (to be so lucky ) Le Puy-en-Velay is an amazing destination. Easily accessible by train the 10th century church perched 85 meters in the air on a volcanic spire is unbelievable.

Beaune is a classic wine town a little north on the train. Though heavily used by tourists it has some incredible glazed tile roofs to see, 2 or 3 nice museums and wine, wine, wine.

If you haven't noticed Lyon is probably my favorite city in France. Yes even over Paris. In fact I'm starting to regret that I leave Thursday for Reims, Nancy & Metz. Why didn't I fit Lyon in?
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Old Mar 7th, 2005, 08:41 PM
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wow! Thanks for all of the detailed information. I'm even more excited now! I'll be sure and read the trip report and take notes on what to eat. I'd read that Lyon is the gastronomic capital of France so I'm very excited to eat there. I think I'll stay away from Tripe Lyonnaise unless someone tells me it's a must have.
Thanks again for the fantastic advice!
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Old Mar 7th, 2005, 09:43 PM
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I am sure the people at your school will give you plenty of recommendations for Lyon. Be sure to take the train to Annecy in the Alps, a completely different environment. As I recall it is less than two hours by train, can be done as a day trip.
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Old Mar 7th, 2005, 11:13 PM
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Indytravel has given you great advice on Lyon (although I'm not convinced the food at Brasserie Georges is anything worth writing home about).

I also second the recommendation to visit Annecy. It's any easy day or weekend trip from Lyon and the cooler mountain air will be a welcome relief during the hot Lyonnais summer (it can get very hot indeed).

If you have the opportunity to hire a car, I would recommend driving down to northern Provence for a day or weekend. We did this as a day trip from Lyon last year, visiting the beautiful old town of Nyons, the hilltop village of Grignan and the surrounding lavender fields. In July they will be in full bloom.

In Lyon, there are some fantastic places to visit and of course, many amazing restaurants. For an unforgettable dining experience, I'd recommend booking a table (well in advance) on the terrasse of La Maison Villemanzy, which is a restaurant on the slopes of the Croix Rousse hill, with the most wonderful views of the city. The food is good and excellent value at around 24 euros (I think) for the set 3-course menu.

I absolutely adore the Beaujolais region and I'd strongly recommend taking the time to visit. Again, the best way is by car - you can visit Beaujeu, the capital of the Beaujolais region, as well as the gorgeous medieval fortified town of Oingt. Oh, and a wonderful place to eat is Les Platanes in the village of Chenas. Imagine tables laid out under the spreading bows of plane trees, with the Beaujolais hills and villages spread out before you like an oil painting. (oh, and the food is fabulous)

Another daytrip involves taking a boat trip down the Rhône to the town of Vienne, which is famous for its Roman heritage. The main Lyon river cruise company, Navig-Inter, organises various trips (www.naviginter.fr).


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Old Mar 8th, 2005, 12:28 AM
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bows = boughs
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