Suggestions for central France
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Suggestions for central France
In late May my husband has a business trip to Clermont Ferrand then a short seminar in Geneva. We plan to stay in Paris for a few days and drive down to CF for four days. I know it's not a normal tourist destination, any suggestions for day trips I could make alone with the car? Mostly to the north and east, that's how our driving route to Geneva will take us but not too much driving, I need to be back at our CF hotel to meet my husband for dinner. Anyone been to Macon?
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I like the Auvergne region of France: St Nectaire, Salers and Cantal cheeses are amazing as is the forme d'Ambert bleu. If you can find Cantal doux (soft) it's a treat. Like butter. Aligot is a cheesy, garlic mashed potato that is delicious.
Clermont Ferrand is a nice little city itself. The cathedral made from black, volcanic stone is worth a look as is finding the Fontaine Amboise made from the same stone. When I was there in Spring 2003 the Musee du Ranquet was in the process of re-locating and was not open. It has two of the very few calculating machines designed by Blaise Pascal.
This was before I took copious notes so I don't have many C-F restaurant recommendations. My Dad and I ate at a very good "moules & frites" restaurant next to the D'av Hotel off the north end of Place de Jaude. We also ate at a Maitre Kanter near the cathedral. It's a French chain that has a consistently good foie gras and very nice oysters.
Day trips from Clermont-Ferrand:
Le Puy-en-Velay is a must. It's an 1.5 hours or so away. It has the most amazing church perched atop a volcanic spire. Another spire has a raspberry colored statue of Notre Dame manufactured from cannons captured in the Crimean War. A third broad spire has the cathedral. The street west from the entrance of the cathedral is claimed to be one of France's most picturesque. I've not seen all of France's streets but it was dang pretty.
Take the backroads one way to Le Puy-en-Velay. It's like driving in the Smokey Mountains in the US: beautiful low rolling hills covered with forest and pasture. You go through Ambert where forme d'Ambert bleu cheese is made. The round courthouse there is unusual. You can stop at the church in Chaise Dieu (God's Cellar.)
I also day-tripped to Le Mont Dore on the train. A pretty little resort town it has France's oldest operating incline rail. You can take it up the hill for great views of (Mount) Puy Sancy, the highest peak in the area. Not terribly high but impressive nonetheless.
La Bourboule on the way to Le Mont Dore looked interesting from the train. It's a spa town. Volvic of Volvic bottled water is in the area too.
Two other towns in the area I investigated but did not see from lack of time are Thiers famous for knives and Vichy famous for spas. Thiers looks like it spills down a bluff to the river. It has a knife museum.
Other than enjoying Lyon immensely I've not stopped anywhere between C-F & Geneva.
You have a wonderful opportunity to visit a part of France that not many tourists see. The weather in late May should be excellent too.
Clermont Ferrand is a nice little city itself. The cathedral made from black, volcanic stone is worth a look as is finding the Fontaine Amboise made from the same stone. When I was there in Spring 2003 the Musee du Ranquet was in the process of re-locating and was not open. It has two of the very few calculating machines designed by Blaise Pascal.
This was before I took copious notes so I don't have many C-F restaurant recommendations. My Dad and I ate at a very good "moules & frites" restaurant next to the D'av Hotel off the north end of Place de Jaude. We also ate at a Maitre Kanter near the cathedral. It's a French chain that has a consistently good foie gras and very nice oysters.
Day trips from Clermont-Ferrand:
Le Puy-en-Velay is a must. It's an 1.5 hours or so away. It has the most amazing church perched atop a volcanic spire. Another spire has a raspberry colored statue of Notre Dame manufactured from cannons captured in the Crimean War. A third broad spire has the cathedral. The street west from the entrance of the cathedral is claimed to be one of France's most picturesque. I've not seen all of France's streets but it was dang pretty.
Take the backroads one way to Le Puy-en-Velay. It's like driving in the Smokey Mountains in the US: beautiful low rolling hills covered with forest and pasture. You go through Ambert where forme d'Ambert bleu cheese is made. The round courthouse there is unusual. You can stop at the church in Chaise Dieu (God's Cellar.)
I also day-tripped to Le Mont Dore on the train. A pretty little resort town it has France's oldest operating incline rail. You can take it up the hill for great views of (Mount) Puy Sancy, the highest peak in the area. Not terribly high but impressive nonetheless.
La Bourboule on the way to Le Mont Dore looked interesting from the train. It's a spa town. Volvic of Volvic bottled water is in the area too.
Two other towns in the area I investigated but did not see from lack of time are Thiers famous for knives and Vichy famous for spas. Thiers looks like it spills down a bluff to the river. It has a knife museum.
Other than enjoying Lyon immensely I've not stopped anywhere between C-F & Geneva.
You have a wonderful opportunity to visit a part of France that not many tourists see. The weather in late May should be excellent too.
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My husband and I visited French friends in the Massif-Central last summer. It's a beautiful area of France that doesn't get many American tourists...you will love it! I recommend Conques, an adorable town that's closed to cars and has a marvelous cathedral. Rodez, the area's largest city, is also very charming. And if you want to treat yourselves, visit Michel Bras in the adorable town of Laguiole. The town is famous for its knives, and the restaurant, Michel Bras, has a Michelin star.
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Agree whole-heartedly with others about the Auvergne. A great place to visit, especially if you like cheese and charcuterie, and trout.
Would just add the village of Blesle just south of Clermont. It very fully deserves its classification as one of the plus beaux villages de france. Definately do not miss it.
-Kevin
Would just add the village of Blesle just south of Clermont. It very fully deserves its classification as one of the plus beaux villages de france. Definately do not miss it.
-Kevin
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Very few Americans go to Le-Puy-en-Velay, but everyone should! Stunning. A bit west of C-F, go to Puy-de-Dome. As you go to the summit, picture one of the greatest duels in Tour de France history, as two men battled for the lead. Wonderful view from the top on a clear day.
Macon is not terribly appealing, IMHO, but Pouilly and Fuisse are, and they are on the route to the Roche du Solutre, a magnificent limestone formation. Just south of there is Beaujolais. Mmmmmm!
If you like city life, Lyon is not too far from C-F. Go to a bouchon for a meal.
Macon is not terribly appealing, IMHO, but Pouilly and Fuisse are, and they are on the route to the Roche du Solutre, a magnificent limestone formation. Just south of there is Beaujolais. Mmmmmm!
If you like city life, Lyon is not too far from C-F. Go to a bouchon for a meal.
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>>>And if you want to treat yourselves, visit Michel Bras in the adorable town of Laguiole. The town is famous for its knives, and the restaurant, Michel Bras, has a Michelin star.>>>>
Bras is a Michelin 3 star restaurant, not 1 star. If you go there, the minimum fixed price menu is 90 Euros. There is a 1 star in Lagioule called Grand Hotel Auguy, min. menu is 38. We dined there when we were in the region for 2 weeks in Sept, and it was excellent.
Stu Dudley
San Mateo (San Francisco), Ca
Bras is a Michelin 3 star restaurant, not 1 star. If you go there, the minimum fixed price menu is 90 Euros. There is a 1 star in Lagioule called Grand Hotel Auguy, min. menu is 38. We dined there when we were in the region for 2 weeks in Sept, and it was excellent.
Stu Dudley
San Mateo (San Francisco), Ca
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While in the area in Sept, I picked up a brochure called "Route Historic des Chateaux s'Auvergne". It lists & describes about 15 chateaux near Clermont. Their web site is
www.route-chateaux-auvergne.org
But when I tried it, it seemed to not work very good
Stu Dudley
www.route-chateaux-auvergne.org
But when I tried it, it seemed to not work very good
Stu Dudley
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If you're a cheese maven, go to the tourist office in C-F and pick up a brochure on the Route des Fromages and follow it through the massif du Cantal, stopping at some of the recommended producers, some of whom have expositions and dégustations. I have a list of these if you're really interested.
In addition to cheese and trout, the region is famous for its honey, green lentils, gentian and verveine liqueurs, pork charcuterie, garlic, mineral waters, chestnuts, and charolais beef.
Some other wonderful restaurants in the region include:
L'Auberge des Cimes in Saint-Bonnet-le-Froid
Le Beauséjour in Calvinet
Le Haut-Allier in Pont d'Alleyra
La Reine Margot in AUrillac
Auberge de Muletiers in Orcines
Restaurant Clavé in C-F.
It's a wonderful region - enjoy!
In addition to cheese and trout, the region is famous for its honey, green lentils, gentian and verveine liqueurs, pork charcuterie, garlic, mineral waters, chestnuts, and charolais beef.
Some other wonderful restaurants in the region include:
L'Auberge des Cimes in Saint-Bonnet-le-Froid
Le Beauséjour in Calvinet
Le Haut-Allier in Pont d'Alleyra
La Reine Margot in AUrillac
Auberge de Muletiers in Orcines
Restaurant Clavé in C-F.
It's a wonderful region - enjoy!
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