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suggestions for 2 night stay driving from Burgundy to Sarlat

suggestions for 2 night stay driving from Burgundy to Sarlat

Old Sep 4th, 2009, 03:58 PM
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suggestions for 2 night stay driving from Burgundy to Sarlat

We will be driving from Burgundy to Sarlat, but have a 2 night gap in between rentals. We would like to stay somewhere off the beaten track, perhaps a vineyard, monastery, castle. Any suggestions will help. Thanks.
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Old Sep 5th, 2009, 03:47 AM
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We made a similar trip and decided to stay in Clermont-Ferrand, in a beautiful small Art Déco hotel with excellent cuisine, Le Radio:

http://www.hotel-radio.fr/

From C-F, we did a daytrip to Puy de Dome, into the Volcanic Auvergne and to Orcival, where you find a grand cathedral.
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Old Sep 5th, 2009, 05:11 AM
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Thanks for the suggestion, it sounds like an interesting area.
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Old Sep 5th, 2009, 07:11 AM
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If this drive is in June through mid-Sept, there are a lot of private Chateaux that are open then.

www.route-chateaux-auvergne.org

We also had a wonderful birthday dinner at Le Radio. C-F is skippable, IMO, but the countryside, churches, chateaux. etc are fantastic.

Here is a writeup that I did.

In July ’06, we rented a Gite near Olby & spent two weeks exploring the area. In this region, the natural beauty is the main attraction. Compared to the villages & cities you’ve already visited in the Dordogne & Languedoc, the ones in the Puy de Dome are really not that interesting. Like I mentioned earlier, I would skip Cleremont-Ferrand entirely. Only old Montferrand was mildly worthwhile – but still nothing like Bordeaux, Perigueux, Sarlat, Toulouse, Albi, Pezanes, Bourges, or Troyes. When we were there, we visited about 15 chateaux, but unfortunately very few are open in May. I glanced at my “Route Historique des Chateaux d’Auvergene” brochure, and I found very few – if any - open in May. Here is their web site if you want to search for the few open
http://www.route-chateaux-auvergne.o...te_anglais.htm


The Michelin Green Guide has many driving itineraries. Here are the sections we enjoyed the most
1. The D216/D27/D983 from the N89/E70/D941 intersection, past Orcival, all the way to le Mont Dore
2. The D983 from the above mentioned D216 to the N89.
3. The D922 from Tauves to Lagueuille
4. The small D640 from the D996, to the D150 to St Nectaire. This affords wonderful views of both St Nectaire & the distant ruins of Murol chateau.
5. The D36 from Besse en Chandesse to le Mont Dore.

Here are some of our favorite villages
1 Lavaudieu
2 Besse en Chandesse – probably the most interesting of the villages
3 Montpeyroux – this is an interesting village to explore. It’s right next to the freeway with a great view of it from the freeway
4 Brioude – interesting church also.
5 Blessle
6 Champeix
7 Billom – take the Michelin walk. Excellent Monday morning market. Nice store called Maison de Campagne on Rue Carnot

Some of our favorite sites
1 the Church at Orcival
2 Murol – it’s in ruins, but quite interesting.

The views from the top of the Puy de Dome are fantastic. We had dinner at the restaurant on top one evening, and watched a thunderstorm pass. If you get a chance, have dinner up at the top of the Puy. I’m a big foodie, and I expected the restaurant to be a little touristy – but it wasn’t. In fact, it was one of our 4 best meals in the region.

The other 3 best meals were l’Ours des Roches in Courteix near Pontgibaud, Radio in Chamaliers, & La Belle Meuniere in Royat.

Here are some drives/sites/villages we did not find as interesting as the Michelin Green Guide suggests
1. Gorges d’Aveze – especially if you visit the Gorges du Tarn.
2. The countryside east of the A75 freeway
3. Col de Ceyssat (too many tree trunks)
4. The Funiculaire du Capucin ride from Mt Dore. It was OK, but a little too time consuming


If I were to stay in one town, I would choose Besse en Chandesse. There are several Michelin listed hotels in town. Another option would be Mont Dore, but it’s a thermal/spa town and geared to that crowd. It’s somewhat interesting to visit, but I would not want to stay there. It seemed a little too “fake” to me. La Bourboule would be another choice, but it looked a little tattered & worn. Perhaps it was a more elegant town 100 years ago.

Here’s a nice itinerary to get to the Puy de Dome from le Puy en Velay.

Head northwest on the N102. Just past a large loop in the road, turn right on the D513 to Chavaniac Lafayette. The chateau there is the birthplace of the Marquis de La Fayette – who helped us in our war of independence. If you have time and the inclination, visit the chateau and the exhibits about the Marquis. It’s a self guided tour, and one of the few that’s open in May. It closes for lunch. I’m pretty sure they have a handout in English. After the chateau, head northwest on the small D21, through Paulhaguet, then on the D56 to Lavaudieu. Get out and explore this village – there’s a picture of it in the Michelin Guide. Continue on the D203/D20 to Brioude. This is kind of a perched town. You will first encounter a large parking lot. Park there & take the elevator up into town. We found the church there to be very interesting and a walk through town worthwhile also. See the Michelin Guide for suggested sites to visit in town.

After Brioude, gage the time, and perhaps visit Blesle if you have time & are not “villaged-out”. I would perhaps skip Blesle, and from Brioude, take the D5888 west and get on the freeway towards Cleremont Ferrand. Almost immediately, get off at exit # 17 and drive through St Germain-Lembron, head north a bit and turn left (west) on the small D125 to Chalus (note the chateau to your right), Villeneuve-Lembron (chateau not open in May), and then to Mareugheol, which is an interesting village. After Mareughol, head southwest on the D717, and then catch the D48 west and then the D32 northeast towards Vodable, then the D124/D23 north. At the larger D26 road at Chidrac, head west Besse en Chandesse – noting the interesting St Floret along the way. Most of the route I just described from St Germain to the D26 can be found in the Michelin Green Guide under “Issoire” It’s probably easier to follow the Green Guide’s description than mine.

For the next day explore the Puy de Dome, following the roads I mentioned above and visiting any sites that interest you. Just driving aimlessly in this region is rewarding.

When it’s time to leave the Puy de Dome for Bourges, get on the A75 freeway, but get off at exit #7 to visit Montpeyroux. My guess is that this charming village is inhabited by wealthy people working in Cleremont Ferrand, since freeway access is so easy. Wander around, and climb up the tower for some great views over the village & down into the back yards & gardens of the houses.

You will need map # 326 to explore the Puy de Dome. If you get an older map, it might not show that the A89 freeway has been extended all the way to the A71 freeway north of Cleremont Ferrand.

Stu Dudley
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Old Sep 5th, 2009, 07:23 AM
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I would stay the first night in Le Pré bossu, http://www.auberge-pre-bossu.com/, (assuming that the price is right) and the second on the western edge of the Auvergne. Moudeyres has an interesting farmhouse museum.

Reviews of Le Pré bossu can be found on the web.
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Old Sep 6th, 2009, 07:05 AM
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Thanks, Stud and Michael for your suggestions. We will be travelling the 10 and 11 of September. Would you know of any castles or farms that are open as B&B's? Also, I have tried going on the train web sites, to see how much it would cost to take a train from Brive back to Paris. Also, how long it would take. I think I heard around 3 hours, we don't need to use the TGV, we have the time to travel. Stu, I've copied out your itinerary, as ususal, very informative. Margaret.
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Old Sep 6th, 2009, 08:31 AM
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>>Thanks, Stud
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Old Sep 6th, 2009, 05:38 PM
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Oops! Typo. Sorry about that. Thanks so much for the train information. I went on the train websites, but am having trouble booking one way. I'll have to figure it out. I still have another year.
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Old Sep 7th, 2009, 07:50 AM
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You can't book a PREM ticket more than 90 days in advance.
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Old Sep 7th, 2009, 08:46 AM
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>>You can't book a PREM ticket more than 90 days in advance.
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Old Sep 28th, 2009, 04:12 PM
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You asked on another thread about places in S Burgundy, near Macon.

We leave for Lyon in 1 week and I am making bookings for B&Bs for the days immeidately following our arrival.

I recommended to you on another thread the Abbaye de la Ferte. In addition to that place, here are some other remarkable places to stay that I have found -- but not yet stayed in:

http://www.lamaisontupinier.fr/tupinier_en.htm
(an apt in CLuny -- can rent by the day)

http://www.closdeclesse.com/home
great reno in a small village btwn Cluny and Tournus

http://pagesperso-orange.fr/crotfoulot/en_chambres.htm
B&B with very spare, very hip decor; in a small hamlet

http://www.maisonniepce.com/index.html
very near La ferte is Sennecey-le-Grand; this pace has both a gite and B&B
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