Stratford Upon Avon
May 3rd, 2002, 09:02 AM
#1
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Stratford Upon Avon
Please forgive me for asking so many questions, but this is my first trip over and I want to get the suggestions of folks who have gone before me. We want to go to Stratford Upon Avon and Warwick Castle the Saturday we are in London. Would we be better off going to Warwick Castle first and then to Stratford - or Stratford first? If we ride the train to Warwick, how is the best way to get over to Stratford (8 miles away?). Do they have a bus that goes back and forth? If we go to Stratford first, what railroad do we use?
May 3rd, 2002, 10:40 AM
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Definitely go to Warwick first. Take as long as you like there - not just the Castle but St Mary's Church and the Lord Leycester Hospital in the town - and if you have the time then go over to Stratford. Be sure to see the Beauchamp Chapel in the Church. <BR><BR>There is frequent bus service - But with as little time as you have I'd take a cab. No waiting for the bus and it is a little faster. And the extra expense more than worth the time savings. In Stratford - the mein things to see are The birthplace, Halls Croft and the Church and his burrial spot plus the Royal Shakespeare Theatre on the bank of the River. The only one that takes much time is the museum adjacent to the birthplace, IF you spend a lot of time looking at the exhibits. If you mostly just want to see the house then it doesn't take that long. Outside of town are Anne Hathaways Cottage and Mary Ardens House (It was just reacently discovered the it isn't REALLY Mary's house afterall, but it is still interesting.)<BR><BR>The best of Stratford is just walking along the river past the theatre and the church with the narrow boats and swans.
May 3rd, 2002, 11:10 AM
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Are you going to see a play at RSC theater or Swan in Stratford-upon-Avon, then you have to go to Warwick first.<BR><BR>Having visited Shakespeare properties in and outside the town, I thought the town tries to get too much out of anything connected to Shakespeare. Anne Hathaway's cottage was interesting mostly because that was our only chance to visit "a" thatched roof house. Otherwise, outside the town places took too much time to visit something indirectly connected to Shakespeare.<BR><BR>Watching a play at RSC theater in Stratford was the highlight of our visit, however.
May 3rd, 2002, 11:48 AM
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Hi<BR><BR>please be aware that Warwick Castle is not the attraction it was.<BR><BR>Years ago, it was owned by a Duke. He had to sell all the best stuff to pay estate duty. It is now owned by the company who own Madame Tussauds, Planetarium, etc in London.<BR><BR>Of course the building survives, but don't expect to see original Holbeins etc.<BR><BR>Peter<BR><BR>
May 3rd, 2002, 02:01 PM
#5
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Sounds like Stratford Upon Avon is extremely "touristy"; so I will take your advise to visit Warwick first. As for a play, had not thought about it; but does sound like a possibly. The only thing is we are two "middle aged" ladies, and do not want to be too late coming back to London. As always, thanks for your advise.
May 3rd, 2002, 04:53 PM
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I am afraid mpprh really doesn't know what he is talking about. I have been to Warwick over 50 times both before and after Mme Tussauds took over. (I used to live 30 miles from there and had my car serviced by Donald and Goeff Healey in Warwick so was there often) <BR><BR>I DREADED the thought of it being bought out by Tussauds and avoided going back for abot 3 years. But I can honestly say it is a BETTER attraction now than when the family still owned and lived in it. The Edwardian country party in the upstairs former family apartments is absolutely wonderful. <BR><BR>Most of the best pieces are still there and Tussauds pockets are deep enough to keep it up better. They have not "kitsched it up at all" except for one small exhibit in one of the cellars and most people miss that. Plus the gardens are better kept now etc. <BR><BR>it is too bad the family had to sell - but this is one case where touristy is actually better.
May 3rd, 2002, 05:30 PM
#7
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We were in London in April and did a bus tour to Oxford, Warwick, and Stratford. We loved Oxford and wished we had more time there. We also loved Warwick and the exhibit was very nice, not tacky at all. Stratford was way too touristy. The time constraints were a result of an organized tour-but allowed us to see a few places in a limited time. The town of Warwick seemed very lovely and a nice place to spend more time. Consider a trip to Bath. We loved that. Took the train from Paddington Station. It was a great day trip. Also enjoyed a trip to Hampton Court via the train from Waterloo Station.
May 3rd, 2002, 10:49 PM
#8
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I was in this area last summer. I don't know if there is a more direct "tourist" bus or not, but the regular local bus, though a pleasant ride, makes a lot of stops and takes at least a half hour, maybe even longer. I was not in a rush so I didn't keep track but I know it did not exactly zip over there. <BR>Warwick Castle is a worthwhile attraction, but the presentation is very over the top. Outside the walls they had a full-fledged renaissance fair going on with about a dozen striped tents with pennants flying, jousting, falconers, etc. Inside the castle, besides the display in the basement (featuring a mechanical blinking and tail-wagging horse) there is also a tower where someone was apparently murdered; this area is garnished with the appropriate sound effects when you go in, haunted music, thunderclaps, etc. Also the audiotour is aimed at the level of about a twelve-year old; I should have guessed that, but I had liked the ones I'd had at other places and took a chance. The Tussaud people are also a little less openly shameless about their desire to get as much of your money as they can than some other similar places. It's still a historic medieval castle though with well-cared for English grounds, which type of thing I think is always worth seeing when you can, especially if you're coming from abroad.<BR><BR>Stratford has its pleasant spots, but most of the town isn't anything too extraordinary. If it were just the Shakespeare stuff and a few of the old pubs, along with the river, etc; it would be pleasant enough. But there is so much superfluous junk, shops and chain restaurants and the ubiquitous buses (one of which a guy comes on the train to shill two stops before you get to Stratford) that it really brings you down. On the other hand, quite a few of the tourists and pub patrons really are cute English girls...
May 4th, 2002, 05:09 AM
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Erlsegaard: Don't blame Mme Tussauds for the "murder tower". That is actually a hold over from the Duke's day. It is the same music and display they used in 1974 long before Mme Tussauds was anywhere near the place.<BR><BR>As for everyone saying Stratford being too touristy - it certainly is if you let it be. Especially right near the Birthplace Trust and museum. Lots of souvenir shops etc. But Stratford is also the center of a very prosperous area and there are great local shops (some very upscale), pubs and restaurants. If you stay out of the obviously touristy things you will love Stratford. BTW - Stratford has been trading on the Shakespeare connections since the 19th century - it has always had a bit of that so it isn't just a 21st century touristy thing.
May 4th, 2002, 05:41 AM
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Message: Janis. You sound like a lady who takes lemons and makes lemonade. Good for you - I like your style! I am heard about Shakespear birthplace for years and I am just going to concentrate on that and leave the tacky "tourist" shops alone. Thanks!
May 4th, 2002, 05:47 AM
#11
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We usually make a day trip to Stratford with the main goal of seeing two plays, a matinee and evening performance. While going to the Globe in London is a fun and worthwhile thing to do, if you really are into theatre, particularly Shakespeare, there is no comparison between the quality of performances at the RSC in Stratford and the performances at The Globe. Stratford far surpasses The Globe. We usually go by train. The late train back to London actually holds to leave after the final performance in the RSC. If we go up in the morning we also have time to do one of the "touristy things" -- Anne Hathaway's cottage or the farm where Shakespeare's mother grew up. And there are some nice restaurants or pubs for both lunch or dinner. They say dinner is very nice right at the theatre, but I've never done that.
May 4th, 2002, 06:55 AM
#13
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When I lived there I owned a Jensen Healy I bought from the maker so I was in Warwick every few weeks for several years. Plus every time someone from the States visited me Warwick and Blenheim were on the agenda. In five years probably 20 or more relatives and friends visited me - since I was the driver and tour guide it wouldn't very well do to drop them at the Castle and say "Bye" see you in a few hours. Plus at that Time I didn't always have to pay to enter (long story)<BR><BR>
May 4th, 2002, 10:20 PM
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The Lord Leycester Hospital includes a lovely chapel over the west gate of the old Warwick city walls and a "hospital" - sort of a hospice meant to house retired or disabled veterans and their wives. The buildings are open to the public and are really interesting. The residents operate a small restaurant for teas and light meals.<BR>
May 11th, 2002, 10:20 AM
#18
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It IS touristy...but I would never regret that we were there. How often am I going to be where WS was? I had a wonderful time. We really enjoyed Anne Hathaway's cottage and the rather "longer than we thought it would be" walk to and from.Nice walk. We made it back in time for the matinee however.One note...I am rather "hippy" and the seats are VERY narrow..at least ours were.Wouldn't have missed it tho
May 11th, 2002, 02:36 PM
#19
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betty--<BR>if you only have 1 day...check out the evans and evans all day tour that includes Oxford, Stratford, and Warwick Castle. Oxford stop gives you a brief tour of the campus and some independent sightseeing time. Stratford had plenty of time to tour Shakespeare's home. But the view of Anne Hathaway's cottage was only from the bus as we went by. Also time for sightseeing/shopping.<BR>Warwick Castle is much fun! Very interesting with the torture instruments and such! I believe the tours still pick up at hotels...take you to Victoria Station for transfer to decent bus rides. Was about $60 about 2 years ago. <BR>
May 11th, 2002, 06:10 PM
#20
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Yes, the Evan Evans tour is still available and had considered it. But I thought we would be too rushed; and I mainly wanted to see Warwick and Stratford (instead of Oxford). Also, we will be there the day of the Flight of the Eagles and the tour was not going to cover that. Thanks for the suggestion.
