Spain in July
Dec 2nd, 2016, 08:27 PM
#21
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I would encourage you to do what you can to make sure that you spend your time doing what YOU want!
I encourage you to consult some good guidebooks (for the north of Spain, I recommend the <i>Michelin Green Guide</i> and the <i>Rough Guide</i> in particular), identify the things you most want to see in each location, check their opening/closing times on the internet, and mark them on a calendar. Then pencil in your transportation, add some time on either side (for getting to/from your lodging, checking in/out, packing/unpacking, getting oriented, etc.). Then see how things fit together. In the process, I would keep in mind that many things in Spain are closed on Monday, and often for all or part of Sundays too; and many things in Spain will also be closed daily for a very long mid-day break.
Just my strategy.... Other people have different ways of planning trips.
I encourage you to consult some good guidebooks (for the north of Spain, I recommend the <i>Michelin Green Guide</i> and the <i>Rough Guide</i> in particular), identify the things you most want to see in each location, check their opening/closing times on the internet, and mark them on a calendar. Then pencil in your transportation, add some time on either side (for getting to/from your lodging, checking in/out, packing/unpacking, getting oriented, etc.). Then see how things fit together. In the process, I would keep in mind that many things in Spain are closed on Monday, and often for all or part of Sundays too; and many things in Spain will also be closed daily for a very long mid-day break.
Just my strategy.... Other people have different ways of planning trips.
Dec 2nd, 2016, 10:54 PM
#22
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My point is simply that kja is giving bad travel advice.
She has rushed through a place which many, not least in Spain, find the most beautiful and attractive in all of the country. Suggesting that San Sebastián/Donostia is mostly for beach time or down time proves the point, bad travel advice based on lack of knowledge.
Of course a special hype with the 2016 European Capital of Culture thing, but here are some 100 leading newspapers and travel magazines across the world recommending San Sebastián for a myriad of reasons. I could chime in with recommendations based on having lived here and visited some thirty times: http://www.sansebastianturismo.info/...-san-sebastian
The annual Tamborrada (drum festival) celebration in mid winter is a quintessential expression of the San Sebastián spirit. Here is the city choir Orfeón Donostiarra leading the crowds on the main square in San Sebastián's Parte vieja/Old town singing for the 75th anniversary of one of the city's most famous gastronomic societies (Gaztelubide) during the Tamborrada in 2008. Poor quality video, but everything else is out of this world (or San Sebastián) : http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nhncDjXMeQ4
They sing the 1861 San Sebastián March, and as the lyrics goes:
Sebastian bat ba da zeruan, Donosti bat bakarra munduan
hura da santua, eta hau da herria - horra zer dan gure Donostia!
(There is only one San Sebastián in heaven, and there is only one Donostia on earth. The first is a Saint, the other is the city, our San Sebastián!)
She has rushed through a place which many, not least in Spain, find the most beautiful and attractive in all of the country. Suggesting that San Sebastián/Donostia is mostly for beach time or down time proves the point, bad travel advice based on lack of knowledge.
Of course a special hype with the 2016 European Capital of Culture thing, but here are some 100 leading newspapers and travel magazines across the world recommending San Sebastián for a myriad of reasons. I could chime in with recommendations based on having lived here and visited some thirty times: http://www.sansebastianturismo.info/...-san-sebastian
The annual Tamborrada (drum festival) celebration in mid winter is a quintessential expression of the San Sebastián spirit. Here is the city choir Orfeón Donostiarra leading the crowds on the main square in San Sebastián's Parte vieja/Old town singing for the 75th anniversary of one of the city's most famous gastronomic societies (Gaztelubide) during the Tamborrada in 2008. Poor quality video, but everything else is out of this world (or San Sebastián) : http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nhncDjXMeQ4
They sing the 1861 San Sebastián March, and as the lyrics goes:
Sebastian bat ba da zeruan, Donosti bat bakarra munduan
hura da santua, eta hau da herria - horra zer dan gure Donostia!
(There is only one San Sebastián in heaven, and there is only one Donostia on earth. The first is a Saint, the other is the city, our San Sebastián!)
Dec 3rd, 2016, 01:23 AM
#23
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Kimhe if you had to choose between 5 nights in San Sebastian or Granada after 3 nights in Pamplona during the bull run which would you choose? Assuming I take a flight from Pamplona to Granada
Dec 3rd, 2016, 02:25 AM
#24
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I would definitely go down to San Sebastián and try to get me head back on my shoulders. Perfect place to gradually come back to reality after 3 nights in Pamplona during fabulous San Fermín. The classic route since Hemingway's "The sun also rises".
Are you sure about three nights in Pamplona during the festival? Have been here many times, the best party in the world, but after max two nights, I can never get out of here and down to San Sebastián fast enough.
Granada would be a totally different world and most likely hellishly hot. A great International Music and Dance festival here during all of July, much of it going on in the open air Generalife theater up at Alhambra: http://www.spain.info/en/que-quieres...e_granada.html
http://www.granadafestival.org/en/elfestival2/
Are you sure about three nights in Pamplona during the festival? Have been here many times, the best party in the world, but after max two nights, I can never get out of here and down to San Sebastián fast enough.
Granada would be a totally different world and most likely hellishly hot. A great International Music and Dance festival here during all of July, much of it going on in the open air Generalife theater up at Alhambra: http://www.spain.info/en/que-quieres...e_granada.html
http://www.granadafestival.org/en/elfestival2/
Dec 3rd, 2016, 03:21 AM
#26
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Wow, a day in Pamplona during the sanfermines is hordes of people, loud party all around 24/7, concerts and performances everywhere, processions, brass bands, music, song, dance, drink, the best convivencia atmosphere, grilled food, song, drink, dance, more music, bars, cafés, fabulous tapas bars and restaurants filled to the brim. Also a fun fair and lot of fun for kids and families, so not everything is about heavy partying. A constat storm on all senses, plain fantastic and totally exhausting.
Even though there are lots of tourists (mostly Spanish), they don't overshadow the traditions and deep roots of the festival. People rather try to be as "Pamplones" as they can, and there are tons of things going with the festival apart from the running with the bulls.
At its best, I've never experienced such spontaneous convivencia anywhere in the world as in Pamplona during the Sanfermines. But get prepared for some serious partying, and all of a sudden you just want out...
Here from the opening in 2009, watch the start of it all from 1 min: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pwV-WCtrjDw
... and it's so sad when San Fermín is over. Here the traditional ending ceremony when everybody sings "Pobre de mi"
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I5jt1...eature=related
Very much recommend to be here durig week-days, not as chaotic as in the week-end.
Even though there are lots of tourists (mostly Spanish), they don't overshadow the traditions and deep roots of the festival. People rather try to be as "Pamplones" as they can, and there are tons of things going with the festival apart from the running with the bulls.
At its best, I've never experienced such spontaneous convivencia anywhere in the world as in Pamplona during the Sanfermines. But get prepared for some serious partying, and all of a sudden you just want out...
Here from the opening in 2009, watch the start of it all from 1 min: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pwV-WCtrjDw
... and it's so sad when San Fermín is over. Here the traditional ending ceremony when everybody sings "Pobre de mi"
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I5jt1...eature=related
Very much recommend to be here durig week-days, not as chaotic as in the week-end.
Dec 3rd, 2016, 04:53 AM
#27
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To give you a better idea of normal street life during San Fermín: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=13xlU7vQWeI
The famous Café Iruña on central Plaza de Castillo: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U1v_F3T7Bik
And you'll get used to these two songs: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4BXmQSMhKUg
The famous Café Iruña on central Plaza de Castillo: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U1v_F3T7Bik
And you'll get used to these two songs: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4BXmQSMhKUg
Dec 3rd, 2016, 07:47 AM
#28
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'Can u convey what a day during San fermin is like?'
It is a little quieter during the week, or lets say not quite as busy. The day normally starts very early in the morning if you want to watch, or join in, the encierro. The police close off the route by 07h00 each morning, a little earlier on the weekends. After the running the locals head for breakfast at their favorite bar or restaurant (reservations required), visitors converge on the bars on Calle Estefeta and Mercaderes and in the Plaza del Castillo, including Café Iruña, Bar Gaucho, Eslava and dozens of others (www.sanfermintours.com/cafes-bars-restaurants/).
Every morning following breakfast, the Giants, Kilikis, Cabezudos and Zaldikos dance through the streets surrounded by thousands of children. This goes on until around 21h00 each night. The first musical interlude, the city band, starts the day at 06h00 in the town hall square before heading to the Plaza de Toros, some Peña bands will be playing at 04h30, but the concerts (free) normally begin around noon. Traditional Basque Sports are played several times during the week. There are events in the Plaza del Castillo and the bullring (after the apartado) during the afternoon to entertain the children and their parents.
Street lunches for the Peñas can begin as early as noon, other locals head for lunch usually around 14h00 to 14h30, visitors wander around trying to figure out what's going on.
The bullfights are at 18h30, but you have to be at the bullring by 18:00 to find your seat and everyone brings food and wine to share. After the bullfights everyone goes out for pintxos.
The firewroks are held nightly at 23h00 and the main concert in the Plaza del Castillo begins at midnight, ending (sometimes) at 03h00. The sun starts to rise over the streets of Pamplona at 06h36 to start another day.
The schedule will not be announced until June, but it will be a full day, depending on what you want to do. Events are always free, but you do have to pay for a balcony to watch the encierro (all are in private homes) and buy tickets to the bullfights.
It is a little quieter during the week, or lets say not quite as busy. The day normally starts very early in the morning if you want to watch, or join in, the encierro. The police close off the route by 07h00 each morning, a little earlier on the weekends. After the running the locals head for breakfast at their favorite bar or restaurant (reservations required), visitors converge on the bars on Calle Estefeta and Mercaderes and in the Plaza del Castillo, including Café Iruña, Bar Gaucho, Eslava and dozens of others (www.sanfermintours.com/cafes-bars-restaurants/).
Every morning following breakfast, the Giants, Kilikis, Cabezudos and Zaldikos dance through the streets surrounded by thousands of children. This goes on until around 21h00 each night. The first musical interlude, the city band, starts the day at 06h00 in the town hall square before heading to the Plaza de Toros, some Peña bands will be playing at 04h30, but the concerts (free) normally begin around noon. Traditional Basque Sports are played several times during the week. There are events in the Plaza del Castillo and the bullring (after the apartado) during the afternoon to entertain the children and their parents.
Street lunches for the Peñas can begin as early as noon, other locals head for lunch usually around 14h00 to 14h30, visitors wander around trying to figure out what's going on.
The bullfights are at 18h30, but you have to be at the bullring by 18:00 to find your seat and everyone brings food and wine to share. After the bullfights everyone goes out for pintxos.
The firewroks are held nightly at 23h00 and the main concert in the Plaza del Castillo begins at midnight, ending (sometimes) at 03h00. The sun starts to rise over the streets of Pamplona at 06h36 to start another day.
The schedule will not be announced until June, but it will be a full day, depending on what you want to do. Events are always free, but you do have to pay for a balcony to watch the encierro (all are in private homes) and buy tickets to the bullfights.
Dec 3rd, 2016, 09:01 AM
#29
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If you decide to spend time in the north , you might wish to visiti Bilbao
as well.
Many travellers concider Andalusia " the real" Spain. Not my opinion.
Granda, Codoba, Seville, Malaga etc..could be a separate trip ...
As mentioned, it is a HOT place in the summer
I liked SS very much. There is an elegance and " old world " feel to the place.
(in addition to the charming old town.)
Just keep in mind it will be very crowded in July !
as well.
Many travellers concider Andalusia " the real" Spain. Not my opinion.
Granda, Codoba, Seville, Malaga etc..could be a separate trip ...
As mentioned, it is a HOT place in the summer
I liked SS very much. There is an elegance and " old world " feel to the place.
(in addition to the charming old town.)
Just keep in mind it will be very crowded in July !
Dec 3rd, 2016, 09:35 AM
#30
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Sharing an opinion, whether it is unusual or common, is not, IMO, "bad" advice. And to be clear, I did <b>not</b> say that "San Sebastián/Donostia is mostly for beach time or down time" -- I said that those who are interested in beach time or down time might have a different reaction to it than I, and I mentioned other reasons why my opinion might be unusual.
Maybe it would be best if we each give our own opinions without attacking others or their opinions?
Maybe it would be best if we each give our own opinions without attacking others or their opinions?
Dec 3rd, 2016, 10:27 AM
#31
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Sharing opinions is indeed a good approach.
We did not go to SS for the beach/ relaxation or its fabulous restaurants -
just wanted too see another lovely place in Spain.
As much as I liked it, it is not one of the cities I
keep revisiting.
The country is so diverse, so full of historic and beautiful towns / cites
it is hard to suggest what is the best choice for others .
A friend of mine did not like Valencia, a number. of posters don't find Barcelona
spectacular, some here really dislike Madrid. ...and so on..
We did not go to SS for the beach/ relaxation or its fabulous restaurants -
just wanted too see another lovely place in Spain.
As much as I liked it, it is not one of the cities I
keep revisiting.
The country is so diverse, so full of historic and beautiful towns / cites
it is hard to suggest what is the best choice for others .
A friend of mine did not like Valencia, a number. of posters don't find Barcelona
spectacular, some here really dislike Madrid. ...and so on..
Dec 3rd, 2016, 10:32 AM
#32
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Kja - After all these years, you should realize that any opinion which differs from that of the Norwegian is wrong in his eyes. While he gives good advice thru his links, his taste is just a little too catholic for me. People here seem to want a little critical opinion, advice, NOT every place is just wonderful ! TG, I started going to/living in Spain 20 yrs before he did so can cast a highly critical eye on his favorite places. But, many people here are first-timers who are content with advice from such links. So it goes.
Dec 3rd, 2016, 02:49 PM
#34
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I have not been to northern Spain yet (Barcelona twice though, but not the north west) although I just booked tickets for a 5 week trip next summer. So while I've done a LOT of research, can't speak from personal experience. But my point was that Spain is a big country and you can't see it all in 19 days so it makes the most 'sense' to leave the south - Andalucia - for another trip, especially since it is very hot there in summer (and I say this as someone who generally doesn't mind hot - I got to Italy most summers - but people convinced me that southern Spain was really TOO hot in July. I've been there twice (both times in March) and loved it and had a total of more than 19 days just for that area and felt it wasn't enough.
You've said you wanted to go to Pamplona so it makes the most sense to add in few places in the north, closer to Pamplona/Madrid and save Granada for another trip.
Anyway, here's the short trip report I wrote for a July trip that included Madrid, Salamanca, Segovia, Toledo and Avila (and links to photos)
http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...tral-spain.cfm
You've said you wanted to go to Pamplona so it makes the most sense to add in few places in the north, closer to Pamplona/Madrid and save Granada for another trip.
Anyway, here's the short trip report I wrote for a July trip that included Madrid, Salamanca, Segovia, Toledo and Avila (and links to photos)
http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...tral-spain.cfm
Dec 3rd, 2016, 04:21 PM
#35
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kja,
Of course we shall share our different opinions, I just meant that clearly advicing against going to San Sebastián <I would NOT include San Sebastian -- its my least favorite place in Spain> is bad advice for a place most people find very well worth visiting when it's based on so limited experience.
Your advice also puzzles me because in your TR from three days in San Sebastián you told of "wonderful breakfast pintxos", "the spectacular El Peine de los Vientos", "stunning views", "wonderful meal", "absolutely delicious lunch", "the excellent Museo San Telmo", "interesting people" and "spectacular scenery". Sounds like things many fodorites might enjoy.
Bedar,
Admit that I'm a bit over the top enthusiastic at times. It's mainly because here I focus on places and experiences that have given me so much over the years and which I want others to be aware of and perhaps be inspired by. I could have mentioned bad tapas bars, restaurants, people and experiences almost all over the country, but frankly they have been quite few, and usually my impressions are then based on so little experience and knowledge that it would be foolish to come out here to advice against for example visiting Granada which I found to be a disneyfied and romanticized stereotype of what many tourists axpect to find in Spain, besides being full of drunks and cameras. But I was here only two days in 2004, and I should of course go back here soon and see it afresh. So can't guarantee against future recommendations of "out of this world" things to see and experience in Granada.
And being "too catholic" I can live with when it comes to a leisurely travel blog meant to give advice and inspire, I'm after all in love with a country where even the atheists are said to be Catholics.
Let's hope for good weather!
Kim
Of course we shall share our different opinions, I just meant that clearly advicing against going to San Sebastián <I would NOT include San Sebastian -- its my least favorite place in Spain> is bad advice for a place most people find very well worth visiting when it's based on so limited experience.
Your advice also puzzles me because in your TR from three days in San Sebastián you told of "wonderful breakfast pintxos", "the spectacular El Peine de los Vientos", "stunning views", "wonderful meal", "absolutely delicious lunch", "the excellent Museo San Telmo", "interesting people" and "spectacular scenery". Sounds like things many fodorites might enjoy.
Bedar,
Admit that I'm a bit over the top enthusiastic at times. It's mainly because here I focus on places and experiences that have given me so much over the years and which I want others to be aware of and perhaps be inspired by. I could have mentioned bad tapas bars, restaurants, people and experiences almost all over the country, but frankly they have been quite few, and usually my impressions are then based on so little experience and knowledge that it would be foolish to come out here to advice against for example visiting Granada which I found to be a disneyfied and romanticized stereotype of what many tourists axpect to find in Spain, besides being full of drunks and cameras. But I was here only two days in 2004, and I should of course go back here soon and see it afresh. So can't guarantee against future recommendations of "out of this world" things to see and experience in Granada.
And being "too catholic" I can live with when it comes to a leisurely travel blog meant to give advice and inspire, I'm after all in love with a country where even the atheists are said to be Catholics.
Let's hope for good weather!
Kim
Dec 3rd, 2016, 05:56 PM
#36
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To be clear, I never said I <u>dis</u>liked San Sebastian / Donostia; I said it is the place that I liked least of those I have visited in Spain. And I have repeatedly said that there were things I enjoyed in San Sebastian; as kimhe notes, I have mentioned those things on several posts, including my trip report. To try to say it differently: IMO, San Sebastian has some wonderful features and can offer some delightful moments, but IMO, it is not among Spain’s finest destinations. To reiterate: <u>JMO</u>
And, to be clear, I didn’t tell the OP <u>not</u> to go to San Sebastian – I said that I would not do so, in part because of my impression of that city, but also (and importantly) because of what that would mean for the OP’s overall itinerary -- consequences upon which I elaborated. In doing so, I clearly identified my opinions as “just my thoughts.”
I’m glad that kimhe found that San Sebastian inspired a “love affair started some 30 years ago” – that’s awesome! I am truly glad that kimhe found a place that felt -- and feels -- so personally inspiring. I’m glad I left after 3 nights. It isn't that I disliked or regret my time in San Sebastian; it's just that, in the context of the time I have to allocate to travel, 3 nights were enough for what I wanted to see, do, and experience.
I’m sure the OP is capable of recognizing that people have differing opinions, and my advice to ANY traveler would be to seek as much information, and as many opinions, as s/he can to allow him/her to reach a decision based on his/her interests and preferences. In offering an opinion (including an opinion about what I would do), I am not telling the OP or anyone else what s/he should do. I am offering opinions. Period.
IMO, one of the values of this board is that it allows people to share their opinions, however usual or unusual. It is, IMO, most valuable when people are not only able to express their opinions freely, but moreover, when they do so with honest respect for differences. That, of course, is quite a far cry from insulting someone for expressing a particular opinion or persisting in criticizing, while pretending to agree that we are free to disagree.
P.S. to kimhe: It saddens me to learn of your experience of Granada, which I found a true delight. In particular, my visits to the Alhambra rank among the most magnificent of all my travel experiences, anywhere in the world -- and I've been fortunate enough to have some truly stunning travel moments! I hope that you experience even a tiny bit of that magic one day. But no argument if you choose not to give it a second chance! Your call.
@ Mkafna: I’m sure you didn’t expect these discussions when you posted your very legitimate questions! I hope you are finding some value in our responses, even if not all are on-point.
And, to be clear, I didn’t tell the OP <u>not</u> to go to San Sebastian – I said that I would not do so, in part because of my impression of that city, but also (and importantly) because of what that would mean for the OP’s overall itinerary -- consequences upon which I elaborated. In doing so, I clearly identified my opinions as “just my thoughts.”
I’m glad that kimhe found that San Sebastian inspired a “love affair started some 30 years ago” – that’s awesome! I am truly glad that kimhe found a place that felt -- and feels -- so personally inspiring. I’m glad I left after 3 nights. It isn't that I disliked or regret my time in San Sebastian; it's just that, in the context of the time I have to allocate to travel, 3 nights were enough for what I wanted to see, do, and experience.
I’m sure the OP is capable of recognizing that people have differing opinions, and my advice to ANY traveler would be to seek as much information, and as many opinions, as s/he can to allow him/her to reach a decision based on his/her interests and preferences. In offering an opinion (including an opinion about what I would do), I am not telling the OP or anyone else what s/he should do. I am offering opinions. Period.
IMO, one of the values of this board is that it allows people to share their opinions, however usual or unusual. It is, IMO, most valuable when people are not only able to express their opinions freely, but moreover, when they do so with honest respect for differences. That, of course, is quite a far cry from insulting someone for expressing a particular opinion or persisting in criticizing, while pretending to agree that we are free to disagree.
P.S. to kimhe: It saddens me to learn of your experience of Granada, which I found a true delight. In particular, my visits to the Alhambra rank among the most magnificent of all my travel experiences, anywhere in the world -- and I've been fortunate enough to have some truly stunning travel moments! I hope that you experience even a tiny bit of that magic one day. But no argument if you choose not to give it a second chance! Your call.
@ Mkafna: I’m sure you didn’t expect these discussions when you posted your very legitimate questions! I hope you are finding some value in our responses, even if not all are on-point.
Dec 6th, 2016, 07:48 AM
#37
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Granada and San Sebastian are two of my favorite places on earth. I wouldn't want to go to Granada in July and I wouldn't want to go to San Sebastian in February. All of Spain is too hot for me except the North coast in July. San Sebastian is a beautiful city, it looks like a very very small Paris only it's right on the ocean with 3 nice beaches in town. I love it for the beach and food. Many people don't care for it. I prefer it to Barcelona. I would plan on a fall or spring trip and to focus on Andalucia next. There are so many medeival towns to visit up north and around Castilla. Santillana, Burgos, Salamanca, Segovia, Avila etc.
Dec 6th, 2016, 11:45 PM
#38
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Thank you all for your informative responses. After much more research I have decided to focus this trip on the north of Spain.
My almost finalised itinerary is as follows:
Land in Barcelona on the 6th of July. Leave Barcelona on the 11th and head to Pamplona for the running of the bulls. I have decided to stay 3 nights there my rational being I may as well leave exhausted since I may never see it again lol.
On the 14th I head to San Sebastian for six nights and then onto Madrid for 5 nights
Just a question to anyone who has extensive knowledge of the north. I would like to take myself back in time and sleep a couple of nights in a medieval village.
I have looked at santallina del mar which looks beautiful...are there any other villages that are on par or better?
My almost finalised itinerary is as follows:
Land in Barcelona on the 6th of July. Leave Barcelona on the 11th and head to Pamplona for the running of the bulls. I have decided to stay 3 nights there my rational being I may as well leave exhausted since I may never see it again lol.
On the 14th I head to San Sebastian for six nights and then onto Madrid for 5 nights
Just a question to anyone who has extensive knowledge of the north. I would like to take myself back in time and sleep a couple of nights in a medieval village.
I have looked at santallina del mar which looks beautiful...are there any other villages that are on par or better?
Dec 7th, 2016, 05:13 PM
#39
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Santillana del Mar worked well for me, although I'm sure you have already learned that many people think it too touristed. It's small -- a night or two would probably be enough.
Have you explored options for shifting your timing around a bit? Your time in Barcelona seems on the short side, particularly since you will be recovering from jet lag while there.
Have you explored options for shifting your timing around a bit? Your time in Barcelona seems on the short side, particularly since you will be recovering from jet lag while there.
