Spain Experts Please Help with Catalonia
Oct 1st, 2006, 09:41 PM
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Spain Experts Please Help with Catalonia
I'd really appreciate some advise for our 25th Anniversary Celebration trip in April. I love the Paradors and want to take advantage of the 5 day card and have come up with the following itinerary:
APPRIL 15—19—5 DAY PARADOR CARD FOR CATALONIA
APRIL 15 & 16 BEGUR
Side trips Cadaques
Casa Dali
L’Hostal Jazz Club ?
Girona
Figueres
Theatro Dali
Tossa de Mar
Empuries
APRIL 17 VIC
Side trip to Rupid
APRIL 18 & 19—CARDONA
Side trips to Montserrat
Solsona (?)
QUESTIONS:
1) Could this reasonably be done with public transporation or do you think a car is necessary? (The big problem here is DH's driving, but I guess I could take a valium, though I'd rather not)
2) I realize I might be trying to do too much in the first part and know there may not be time to do all, but know I don't want to miss Casa Dali and Theatro Dali. Of the other places, what order would you put them in?
3) Has anyone been to L'Hostal? I just read about it in Frommers and it sounds perfect for DH (he's a jazz musician).
4) Has anyone been to Rupit?
5) Has anyone been to Solsona? How was it?
6) Am I leaving out someplace in this area you'd suggest?
7) Any restaurant recommendations?
Thanks so much for any advise you can give me.
APPRIL 15—19—5 DAY PARADOR CARD FOR CATALONIA
APRIL 15 & 16 BEGUR
Side trips Cadaques
Casa Dali
L’Hostal Jazz Club ?
Girona
Figueres
Theatro Dali
Tossa de Mar
Empuries
APRIL 17 VIC
Side trip to Rupid
APRIL 18 & 19—CARDONA
Side trips to Montserrat
Solsona (?)
QUESTIONS:
1) Could this reasonably be done with public transporation or do you think a car is necessary? (The big problem here is DH's driving, but I guess I could take a valium, though I'd rather not)
2) I realize I might be trying to do too much in the first part and know there may not be time to do all, but know I don't want to miss Casa Dali and Theatro Dali. Of the other places, what order would you put them in?
3) Has anyone been to L'Hostal? I just read about it in Frommers and it sounds perfect for DH (he's a jazz musician).
4) Has anyone been to Rupit?
5) Has anyone been to Solsona? How was it?
6) Am I leaving out someplace in this area you'd suggest?
7) Any restaurant recommendations?
Thanks so much for any advise you can give me.
Oct 2nd, 2006, 12:35 AM
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You will definitely need a car.
I strongly recommend that you buy the book The Rough Guide to Costa Brava, which you can easily order through Amazon. It has excellent descriptions of the small towns throughout Cataluyna.
You are trying to do way too much, and the Rough Guide will help you pare it down to what you want to really see.
The drive into Cadaques is very mountainous and winding. You will easily use up more than half a day making a trip there. Girona will also consume more than a half day of your time.
I very much wanted to stay in the parador at Vic, but it was booked. It's looks beautiful. The Episcopal museum in Vic, plus the Playa Major and the town's many beautiful buildings, are very much worth seeing.
I strongly recommend that you buy the book The Rough Guide to Costa Brava, which you can easily order through Amazon. It has excellent descriptions of the small towns throughout Cataluyna.
You are trying to do way too much, and the Rough Guide will help you pare it down to what you want to really see.
The drive into Cadaques is very mountainous and winding. You will easily use up more than half a day making a trip there. Girona will also consume more than a half day of your time.
I very much wanted to stay in the parador at Vic, but it was booked. It's looks beautiful. The Episcopal museum in Vic, plus the Playa Major and the town's many beautiful buildings, are very much worth seeing.
Oct 2nd, 2006, 12:48 AM
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You will surely need a car for this and if DH is a terror, I suggest you learn to drive stick and help out. Yes, the driver needs to know stick.
Sounds like you are doing a great trip. The Dalí museum is great and of all the Dalí attractions, by far the best (though the house in Cadaqués is wonderful), so definitely set aside a full morning for that. The lines get long, but I went back in 2001 and there was no pre-booking available. Perhaps they have that now.
Are you completely leaving out Barcelona? Does this mean no discussion about the Picasso museums of the world? I hope not!
Claire
Sounds like you are doing a great trip. The Dalí museum is great and of all the Dalí attractions, by far the best (though the house in Cadaqués is wonderful), so definitely set aside a full morning for that. The lines get long, but I went back in 2001 and there was no pre-booking available. Perhaps they have that now.
Are you completely leaving out Barcelona? Does this mean no discussion about the Picasso museums of the world? I hope not!
Claire
Oct 2nd, 2006, 01:47 AM
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It is too much for just 5 days.
You could do Figueres and Empuries or Figueras in Cadaquès in one day, but certainly not visit the 3 places.
Restaurants :
La Cupula - Doctor Pagès 1 - Villa Sacra
(on the main road from Figueres to Roses, on the right)
Les Quadres - c/Baix - El Far d'Emporda
(a few km from Figueras, in a renovated old farm)
Girona to Cardona will take at least 2 hours.
You could do Figueres and Empuries or Figueras in Cadaquès in one day, but certainly not visit the 3 places.
Restaurants :
La Cupula - Doctor Pagès 1 - Villa Sacra
(on the main road from Figueres to Roses, on the right)
Les Quadres - c/Baix - El Far d'Emporda
(a few km from Figueras, in a renovated old farm)
Girona to Cardona will take at least 2 hours.
Oct 2nd, 2006, 10:13 AM
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Hi artlover,
I agree with the others; a car is absolutely necessary. And yes, your list is unfortunately too long for just 5 days in the Catalunya countryside. :'(
We have a 3 week trip coming up in Dec.-Jan. to Pamplona and Catalunya with two parador 5 night cards for part of the Catalunya portion. We're hitting the same ones that you are-too bad we'll miss each other!
The Cardona, Aiguablava and Vic paradors are remote, and the Vic Parador is 15 km. from Vic, with a gorgeous setting on the lake.
Just take that valium! And as laclaire wisely suggests, learn to drive stick to help out yourself!
With only 2 nights in Aiguablava (Begur),
you just won't be able to fit everything in on your list,.
We alloted five days to do it all last time. So put the Teatre-Museu Dalí in Figueres and the Casa in Port Lligat (Cadaqués) at the top if you absolutely can't miss Port Lligat. But that makes for a very long day, and as ness has said, the drive to Cadaqués is a pain due to the 800+ curves on the road from Roses. But in April, it won't be bumper to bumper as it is in July-Aug. If you must, prepare DH and take another valium!
Art lovers should do at least two spots on the Dalí triangle, (although the best, as in most famous, of Dalí isn't found in Figueres, but instead at the Reina Sofía and St. Petersburg, Fla, but you know that already)
I would put the fascinating Greco-Roman ruins of Empúries third.
But....
You could see Empúries if you were willing to switch the Casa Dalí in Port Lligat-Cadaqués for Gala's home at Púbol, the 3rd point on the Dalí triangle, which is much closer to Aiguablava.
With only two days, you won't be able to fit in the spectacular drive from Sant Feliú to Tossa. Save it for next time.
From Vic, you must, must, must go to Rupit. I've been twice, and we're heading there again. I loved it so much I even bought the video. Approaching it from the south, from Vic, isn't that difficult a drive. You can also do the Romanesque Monestir of Santa María in Ripoll on the same day if you get an early start. Ripoll is ugly, ugly but the Monestir is a delight.
I think this is important:
I would definitely take away the second night in Cardona and put it at Vic, as that area is just richer in "must see" treasures:
Rupit
neighboring Els Hostalets d'en Bas, which has a less dramatic perch but is one of Catalunya's most picturesque towns as well
Vic itself
the truly, truly lush Garrotxa extinct volcanic park and delightful medieval Besalú and Santa Pau within it
the two Romanesque monestirs, Santa María and Sant Joan de les Abadesses near Ripoll.
If you'll be in Vic on Sat. there's a lively market in the square.
I always think of Cardona as a one night stand before Barcelona.
From Cardona, yes, do the side trip to Montserrat. I wouldn't bother with Solsona.
I'll be back later with restaurant suggestions.
Hope this helps!
I agree with the others; a car is absolutely necessary. And yes, your list is unfortunately too long for just 5 days in the Catalunya countryside. :'(
We have a 3 week trip coming up in Dec.-Jan. to Pamplona and Catalunya with two parador 5 night cards for part of the Catalunya portion. We're hitting the same ones that you are-too bad we'll miss each other!
The Cardona, Aiguablava and Vic paradors are remote, and the Vic Parador is 15 km. from Vic, with a gorgeous setting on the lake.
Just take that valium! And as laclaire wisely suggests, learn to drive stick to help out yourself!
With only 2 nights in Aiguablava (Begur),
you just won't be able to fit everything in on your list,.
We alloted five days to do it all last time. So put the Teatre-Museu Dalí in Figueres and the Casa in Port Lligat (Cadaqués) at the top if you absolutely can't miss Port Lligat. But that makes for a very long day, and as ness has said, the drive to Cadaqués is a pain due to the 800+ curves on the road from Roses. But in April, it won't be bumper to bumper as it is in July-Aug. If you must, prepare DH and take another valium!
Art lovers should do at least two spots on the Dalí triangle, (although the best, as in most famous, of Dalí isn't found in Figueres, but instead at the Reina Sofía and St. Petersburg, Fla, but you know that already)
I would put the fascinating Greco-Roman ruins of Empúries third.
But....
You could see Empúries if you were willing to switch the Casa Dalí in Port Lligat-Cadaqués for Gala's home at Púbol, the 3rd point on the Dalí triangle, which is much closer to Aiguablava.
With only two days, you won't be able to fit in the spectacular drive from Sant Feliú to Tossa. Save it for next time.
From Vic, you must, must, must go to Rupit. I've been twice, and we're heading there again. I loved it so much I even bought the video. Approaching it from the south, from Vic, isn't that difficult a drive. You can also do the Romanesque Monestir of Santa María in Ripoll on the same day if you get an early start. Ripoll is ugly, ugly but the Monestir is a delight.
I think this is important:
I would definitely take away the second night in Cardona and put it at Vic, as that area is just richer in "must see" treasures:
Rupit
neighboring Els Hostalets d'en Bas, which has a less dramatic perch but is one of Catalunya's most picturesque towns as well
Vic itself
the truly, truly lush Garrotxa extinct volcanic park and delightful medieval Besalú and Santa Pau within it
the two Romanesque monestirs, Santa María and Sant Joan de les Abadesses near Ripoll.
If you'll be in Vic on Sat. there's a lively market in the square.
I always think of Cardona as a one night stand before Barcelona.
From Cardona, yes, do the side trip to Montserrat. I wouldn't bother with Solsona.
I'll be back later with restaurant suggestions.
Hope this helps!
Oct 2nd, 2006, 10:49 AM
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Thanks everyone so much for your helpful responses. Even before I posted this, I has a feeling that we needed a car.
Claire, DH and I both drive stick, but I don't like driving period and he drives all cars as if they were Ferraris
! After last trip, I threatened to rent at least a BMW for the next, but budget really doesn't allow it.
Claire, We are NOT leaving out Barcelona--how could we ever, we're just doing this sidetrip to new and unexplored territory as well. I'm not sure how low we'll be in Barcelona as we're going to Paris first and haven't finalized the itinerary there. Only definite place at this point is April 21-28 in Mallorca where we'll have a timeshare (and yes, will have to rent a car there as well).
nessundorma,
Yes, I had a feeling I was trying to do too much in the Cadaques part, and we don't like to just rush like mad through places, so I will get the guide.
Pvoyoguese,
Thank you for the restaurant recommendations.
Maribel,
As always, you're an angel! So sorry our paths aren't going to cross this time, but hope someday they will. Your recommendations have me reconsidering much of these plans. I have to admit, I'm drawn to the Parador in Cardona because of the castle setting. I still have to pinch myself when I think of how incredible the Parador in Leon was. Yet Leon itself certainly didn't have the appeal to me that Segovia and Salamanca and Avila had. So, yes, I think one night there.
To be quite honest, Dali isn't one of my favorite artists, but when DD was in Spain, she told me that we absolutely MUST see Theatro Dali and Casa Dali and brought back a book to prove her point. Obviously, I was convinced. She didn't get to Gala's home, and from the book it didn't seem as exciting as the other two, but now I'm reconsidering this.
Now Chagall is one of my favorites, so I'm drawn to Tossa because of this--or will I be disappointed with what is there as far as Chagall's work?
Now I'm thinking that maybe because there's so much I want to see by Begur, we should stay there 3 nights, Vic one, and Cardoma one? I might even extend this part to a week depending on what happens with our request for a timeshare in France (this is what's hanging me up on this).
Thanks again everyone for your help!
Claire, DH and I both drive stick, but I don't like driving period and he drives all cars as if they were Ferraris
! After last trip, I threatened to rent at least a BMW for the next, but budget really doesn't allow it. Claire, We are NOT leaving out Barcelona--how could we ever, we're just doing this sidetrip to new and unexplored territory as well. I'm not sure how low we'll be in Barcelona as we're going to Paris first and haven't finalized the itinerary there. Only definite place at this point is April 21-28 in Mallorca where we'll have a timeshare (and yes, will have to rent a car there as well).
nessundorma,
Yes, I had a feeling I was trying to do too much in the Cadaques part, and we don't like to just rush like mad through places, so I will get the guide.
Pvoyoguese,
Thank you for the restaurant recommendations.
Maribel,
As always, you're an angel! So sorry our paths aren't going to cross this time, but hope someday they will. Your recommendations have me reconsidering much of these plans. I have to admit, I'm drawn to the Parador in Cardona because of the castle setting. I still have to pinch myself when I think of how incredible the Parador in Leon was. Yet Leon itself certainly didn't have the appeal to me that Segovia and Salamanca and Avila had. So, yes, I think one night there.
To be quite honest, Dali isn't one of my favorite artists, but when DD was in Spain, she told me that we absolutely MUST see Theatro Dali and Casa Dali and brought back a book to prove her point. Obviously, I was convinced. She didn't get to Gala's home, and from the book it didn't seem as exciting as the other two, but now I'm reconsidering this.
Now Chagall is one of my favorites, so I'm drawn to Tossa because of this--or will I be disappointed with what is there as far as Chagall's work?
Now I'm thinking that maybe because there's so much I want to see by Begur, we should stay there 3 nights, Vic one, and Cardoma one? I might even extend this part to a week depending on what happens with our request for a timeshare in France (this is what's hanging me up on this).
Thanks again everyone for your help!
Oct 2nd, 2006, 11:12 AM
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artlover,
Yes, yes, yes!!!!!!!!!!!! Extend this to a week!
That would make me (and you and the DH) so happy!
There is so much incredibly beautiful scenery to see, medieval villages to explore (Peretallada is another absolutely authentic gem, Pals is more picture-perfect, for the wealthy, but beautfiul nonetheless), Romanesque architecture to die for.
Remember that the Empordá is Catlunya's version of Tuscany.
About Chagall and Tossa. Nope. Tossa has an undeniably pretty walled ancient quarter overlooking the expanisve, flat beach, but it's a large, very built up, mass market tourism beach resort now. You go to Tossa for a family beach holiday, not for the art.
Dining:
Rupit:
the immaculate Hostal Estrella Inexpensive.
Around Aiguablava:
the very fine Hostal Sa Tuna in the tiny cove of Sa Tuna. They make a fantastic arros negre. Moderate.
www.hostalsatuna.com
The terrace, if open, of the charming Sa Racassa in Aiguafreda. Inexpensive.
www.hostalsarascassa.com
Besalú:
Els Fogons de Can Llaudes
Cadaqués:
Casa Anita. Moderate
Begur:
The Aiguaclara hotel
www.aiguaclara.com
Llafranc:
Any of the beach hotel restaurants will provide nice dining, the Llevant, Llafranch, Casamar-whatever menu appeals most.
Charming fishing village/resort town close to Aiguablava, that shouldn't be missed, along with its neighbor, Calella de Palafrugell.
Figueres:
The Hotel Empordá, where new Catalán cuisine was born. On the highway coming in to Figueres. Quite renowned.
www.hotelemporda.com
Or if you want something in town, walkable from the museum, the equally noted Hotel Duran.
www.hotelduran.com
The following two for splurges:
For its El Bullí connection, beautiful décor filled with antiques, great wine list and well priced tasting menus, Mas Pau on the road to Olot, just west of Figueres in Avinyonet de Puigventós. Much more affordable than El Bulli!! Gourmet
Vic:
Can Jubany in Calldetenes, 4 km from Vic on the Sant Hilari highway. This is the one absolutely not to be missed on our list.
Closed Sun./Mon. Gourmet
www.canjubany.com
Yes, yes, yes!!!!!!!!!!!! Extend this to a week!
That would make me (and you and the DH) so happy!
There is so much incredibly beautiful scenery to see, medieval villages to explore (Peretallada is another absolutely authentic gem, Pals is more picture-perfect, for the wealthy, but beautfiul nonetheless), Romanesque architecture to die for.
Remember that the Empordá is Catlunya's version of Tuscany.
About Chagall and Tossa. Nope. Tossa has an undeniably pretty walled ancient quarter overlooking the expanisve, flat beach, but it's a large, very built up, mass market tourism beach resort now. You go to Tossa for a family beach holiday, not for the art.
Dining:
Rupit:
the immaculate Hostal Estrella Inexpensive.
Around Aiguablava:
the very fine Hostal Sa Tuna in the tiny cove of Sa Tuna. They make a fantastic arros negre. Moderate.
www.hostalsatuna.com
The terrace, if open, of the charming Sa Racassa in Aiguafreda. Inexpensive.
www.hostalsarascassa.com
Besalú:
Els Fogons de Can Llaudes
Cadaqués:
Casa Anita. Moderate
Begur:
The Aiguaclara hotel
www.aiguaclara.com
Llafranc:
Any of the beach hotel restaurants will provide nice dining, the Llevant, Llafranch, Casamar-whatever menu appeals most.
Charming fishing village/resort town close to Aiguablava, that shouldn't be missed, along with its neighbor, Calella de Palafrugell.
Figueres:
The Hotel Empordá, where new Catalán cuisine was born. On the highway coming in to Figueres. Quite renowned.
www.hotelemporda.com
Or if you want something in town, walkable from the museum, the equally noted Hotel Duran.
www.hotelduran.com
The following two for splurges:
For its El Bullí connection, beautiful décor filled with antiques, great wine list and well priced tasting menus, Mas Pau on the road to Olot, just west of Figueres in Avinyonet de Puigventós. Much more affordable than El Bulli!! Gourmet
Vic:
Can Jubany in Calldetenes, 4 km from Vic on the Sant Hilari highway. This is the one absolutely not to be missed on our list.
Closed Sun./Mon. Gourmet
www.canjubany.com
Oct 2nd, 2006, 11:16 AM
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Artlover,
I consider myself an artlover as well, and despite spending about 9 days in Catalonia and the Costa Brava (and 3 of them in Cadaques), I did not go to any of the Dali attractions. Apart from his Jerusalem Bible, I am not much interested in his work. I feel I nonetheless had a very rich experience in that part of Spain and look forward to returning. (When I return, I doubt I will go to see any of the Dali attractions.)
I'll reinforce Maribel's point that the drive to Rupit is not difficult. It pases through rolling cow pastures. In general, however, I will say that much of the driving in that area is a stark choice between truck-crowded, multi-lane highways and very, very curvy, climbing roads. Both can create fatigue, so I recommend again that you not be overly ambitious in planning "must-sees" and instead enjoy the paradors and a few carefully selected destinations in the Catalonian spring.
I consider myself an artlover as well, and despite spending about 9 days in Catalonia and the Costa Brava (and 3 of them in Cadaques), I did not go to any of the Dali attractions. Apart from his Jerusalem Bible, I am not much interested in his work. I feel I nonetheless had a very rich experience in that part of Spain and look forward to returning. (When I return, I doubt I will go to see any of the Dali attractions.)
I'll reinforce Maribel's point that the drive to Rupit is not difficult. It pases through rolling cow pastures. In general, however, I will say that much of the driving in that area is a stark choice between truck-crowded, multi-lane highways and very, very curvy, climbing roads. Both can create fatigue, so I recommend again that you not be overly ambitious in planning "must-sees" and instead enjoy the paradors and a few carefully selected destinations in the Catalonian spring.
Oct 2nd, 2006, 11:47 AM
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thanks ness,
I recall past roads and the choices of steep narrow ones (minus guardrails:-<
or wider ones with heavy truck traffic...sanest road reccos would be appreciated (I purchased a Micheline 574 but don't know if all the smaller ones are listed).
Claire,
Excuse my typo--I meant "long", not "low"--I'm always high in Barcelona--how could one not be?
Oh yes, and Maribel, I'll be looking forward to your trip report, especially on the restaurants in the Paradors. I remember the one in Leon was quite good, but have heard they can vary.
I recall past roads and the choices of steep narrow ones (minus guardrails:-<
or wider ones with heavy truck traffic...sanest road reccos would be appreciated (I purchased a Micheline 574 but don't know if all the smaller ones are listed).Claire,
Excuse my typo--I meant "long", not "low"--I'm always high in Barcelona
--how could one not be?Oh yes, and Maribel, I'll be looking forward to your trip report, especially on the restaurants in the Paradors. I remember the one in Leon was quite good, but have heard they can vary.
Oct 2nd, 2006, 12:55 PM
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I actually liked the big main toll road that slices right through southern Catalonia (from Barcelona into France). When you need to make some time, this is the way to go.
But obviously you will also want to see some pretty scenery. I didn't take the famed Tossa del Mar drive, which has some ungodly number of turns, but I did enjoy the road to Rupit and other mountain roads in the green foothills.
As mentioned earlier, if you choose to go to Cadaques, there is only one choice of road. Having just descended from the high Pyrenees and from driving goat tracks in France, I didn't find it scary at all, just rather long and tiring.
But obviously you will also want to see some pretty scenery. I didn't take the famed Tossa del Mar drive, which has some ungodly number of turns, but I did enjoy the road to Rupit and other mountain roads in the green foothills.
As mentioned earlier, if you choose to go to Cadaques, there is only one choice of road. Having just descended from the high Pyrenees and from driving goat tracks in France, I didn't find it scary at all, just rather long and tiring.
Oct 2nd, 2006, 01:02 PM
#12
A really nice place that no one ever seems to mention is the medievil village of Peratallada. Stone for the streets & houses was hewn from the moat that surrounds this small village just down the road from La Bisbal d'Empordà which is lined with pottery shops.
Ian
Ian
Oct 2nd, 2006, 01:49 PM
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artlover,
A second to Peretallada (which I mentioned above). Strass is headed there and will give us a report, I'm sure, upon return, and we'll visit again, as it's the real deal!! Monells is another medieval village worth adding to the mix with more time. And I can recommend a meal in Peretallada at the Can Bonay. It's a great place to try regional specialties like the goose with turnips (oca amb naps) or with pears (oca amb peras).
The roads in the Baix (lower) Empordá which is relatively flat like Tuscany with bastide towns like Begur are easy driving actually. The only problem is during the summer when it's bumper to bumper on the road through La Bisbal, the pottery town, to the coast and on the road from the autoroute that takes you east to Tossa. You're wise in choosing April (wish we could have), as you'll avoid that, except maybe for the wkd. when the catalán elite head to their wkd homes from Bcn.
A second to Peretallada (which I mentioned above). Strass is headed there and will give us a report, I'm sure, upon return, and we'll visit again, as it's the real deal!! Monells is another medieval village worth adding to the mix with more time. And I can recommend a meal in Peretallada at the Can Bonay. It's a great place to try regional specialties like the goose with turnips (oca amb naps) or with pears (oca amb peras).
The roads in the Baix (lower) Empordá which is relatively flat like Tuscany with bastide towns like Begur are easy driving actually. The only problem is during the summer when it's bumper to bumper on the road through La Bisbal, the pottery town, to the coast and on the road from the autoroute that takes you east to Tossa. You're wise in choosing April (wish we could have), as you'll avoid that, except maybe for the wkd. when the catalán elite head to their wkd homes from Bcn.
Oct 2nd, 2006, 04:26 PM
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I would have mentioned Peratallada except it seems artlover's dance card is already quite packed.
I reitierate my recommendation of purchasing a copy of the Rough Guide to the Costa Brava (which includes descriptions of Rupit, Peratallada, Empuries, etc, etc, etc, etc. Although I didn't have much use for its restaurant recommendations, I discovered by reading it places I very much wanted to go while I crossed others off my list. It's a comprehensive, economically packaged overview.
I reitierate my recommendation of purchasing a copy of the Rough Guide to the Costa Brava (which includes descriptions of Rupit, Peratallada, Empuries, etc, etc, etc, etc. Although I didn't have much use for its restaurant recommendations, I discovered by reading it places I very much wanted to go while I crossed others off my list. It's a comprehensive, economically packaged overview.
Oct 2nd, 2006, 04:40 PM
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yes, ness, artlover's dance card is now quite filled, but as she says, she may add more days. The last thing I would advise is to add more villages to those two days in the Begur area, but I think her time there just might expand...
artlover,
I do highly suggest that you add more nights to your Costa Brava portion to enjoy the delights of the Baix Empordá. And in addition to the excellent Rough Guide Directions: Costa Brava, the Thomas Cook Driving Around (newly revised) is excellent, as it provides very doable driving tours that are well paced and easy to follow. It organizes your touring for you, and all the sites mentioned above are described and rated in order of importance or beauty or whatever.
I just purchased George Semler's Visible Cities Barcelona, hot off the press. George is a 25+ yr. Barcelona resident and author of Fodor's Barcelona and Fodor's Barcelona to Bilbao guides (he's a former resident of the Basque Country as well and a regular contributor to Spain Gourmetour and Saveur magazine). I'm putting in a plug here for him now, as he helped us immensely. We followed his Dream Loop Around the Pyrenees on our last Catalunya adventure. Check it out and see if you like it. He also wrote Barcelona Walks, which is out of print but may still be available on his web page.
www.georgesemler.com
artlover,
I do highly suggest that you add more nights to your Costa Brava portion to enjoy the delights of the Baix Empordá. And in addition to the excellent Rough Guide Directions: Costa Brava, the Thomas Cook Driving Around (newly revised) is excellent, as it provides very doable driving tours that are well paced and easy to follow. It organizes your touring for you, and all the sites mentioned above are described and rated in order of importance or beauty or whatever.
I just purchased George Semler's Visible Cities Barcelona, hot off the press. George is a 25+ yr. Barcelona resident and author of Fodor's Barcelona and Fodor's Barcelona to Bilbao guides (he's a former resident of the Basque Country as well and a regular contributor to Spain Gourmetour and Saveur magazine). I'm putting in a plug here for him now, as he helped us immensely. We followed his Dream Loop Around the Pyrenees on our last Catalunya adventure. Check it out and see if you like it. He also wrote Barcelona Walks, which is out of print but may still be available on his web page.
www.georgesemler.com
Oct 2nd, 2006, 07:36 PM
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regarding restaurants: We just got back from 3 weeks in Catalonia and southern France and I would highly recommend Drap Restaurant in Girona. They start serving between 8:30 and 9:00 (as most restaurants do). It is priced very reasonable and the food is very good.
Oct 2nd, 2006, 08:38 PM
#17
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WOW, you Fodorites are AMAZING! It's probably going to take me a few days to digest all this information, but from what you're telling me it seems that it would make much more sense to go to Gala's castle in Pubol instead of Casa Dali unless we can add on another day, in which case it seems it would make sense to stay in Cadaques if we want to go to the jazz club--I sure don't want DH to be negotiating the road back to the Parador late at night (Valium or not!)
And Peratallada and Pals are very close to the Parador--and they're not even in most guidebooks (at least the ones I've been using so far), which for me is a real plus!!!
WOW, thanks so much again!
And Peratallada and Pals are very close to the Parador--and they're not even in most guidebooks (at least the ones I've been using so far), which for me is a real plus!!!
WOW, thanks so much again!
Oct 3rd, 2006, 08:50 AM
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arttover,
I think it would be better to add an extra day at the Aiguablava Parador rather than put a night in Cadqués unless it's really, really important for hubby to go to the jazz club. I see that some critics have called it the second best jazz club in Europe though. I've never been. Cadaqués is quite isolated and there won't be much going on up there in April. Of course, it will be quiet in the Begur area off season, but the area offers more sightseeing delights within an easy reach. With another night (or 2..) in the Begur area (where driving is quite easy), you could see much more on your list. Pals and Peretallada, you're right, are very easily accessible from Aiguablava.
The views from the Aiguablava Parador are spectacular, truly unforgettable. I can't compare them with sea views from Playa Sol or other Cadaqués hotels because I've never had the desire to spend the night up there. I've made the trek 3 times now. I just think the comfort level of the Parador room will be higher. Just something to keep in mind.
Have fun planning!
I think it would be better to add an extra day at the Aiguablava Parador rather than put a night in Cadqués unless it's really, really important for hubby to go to the jazz club. I see that some critics have called it the second best jazz club in Europe though. I've never been. Cadaqués is quite isolated and there won't be much going on up there in April. Of course, it will be quiet in the Begur area off season, but the area offers more sightseeing delights within an easy reach. With another night (or 2..) in the Begur area (where driving is quite easy), you could see much more on your list. Pals and Peretallada, you're right, are very easily accessible from Aiguablava.
The views from the Aiguablava Parador are spectacular, truly unforgettable. I can't compare them with sea views from Playa Sol or other Cadaqués hotels because I've never had the desire to spend the night up there. I've made the trek 3 times now. I just think the comfort level of the Parador room will be higher. Just something to keep in mind.
Have fun planning!
Oct 3rd, 2006, 10:04 AM
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Thanks, Maribel, I'm having a great time planning, which as you know, is part of the fun. Especially with the great people like you on Fodors helping with the plans.
So, if I can only do 5 nights, do you think we should do 2 in Begur and 2 in Vic and 1 in Cardona or 3 in Begur and 1 in Vic and 1 in Cardona?
Thanks again for the great imput!
So, if I can only do 5 nights, do you think we should do 2 in Begur and 2 in Vic and 1 in Cardona or 3 in Begur and 1 in Vic and 1 in Cardona?
Thanks again for the great imput!
Oct 3rd, 2006, 10:12 AM
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Hmmm,
Solely because of DH and the driving, I would say 3 at Aiguablava (you'll LOVE the view), 1 in Vic (remembering that's is a full 15 km. from the city up to the Parador and 1 in Cardona.
I'm not fond of two one night stands in a row, but I think it makes more sense for the areas you want to visit and your DH's driving!!.
The Aiguablava Parador's Baix Empordá location with proximity to Pals, Peratallada, Empuries, Pubol and the 3 charming fishing villages in a row of Calella de Palafrugell, Llafranc and Tamariu will give you more sightseeing opportunities and less stressful driving overall.
You'll be going through Girona to reach the Begur area.
Solely because of DH and the driving, I would say 3 at Aiguablava (you'll LOVE the view), 1 in Vic (remembering that's is a full 15 km. from the city up to the Parador and 1 in Cardona.
I'm not fond of two one night stands in a row, but I think it makes more sense for the areas you want to visit and your DH's driving!!.
The Aiguablava Parador's Baix Empordá location with proximity to Pals, Peratallada, Empuries, Pubol and the 3 charming fishing villages in a row of Calella de Palafrugell, Llafranc and Tamariu will give you more sightseeing opportunities and less stressful driving overall.
You'll be going through Girona to reach the Begur area.
