Go Back  Fodor's Travel Talk Forums > Destinations > Europe
Reload this Page >

Spain driving loop, longer stay.

Search

Spain driving loop, longer stay.

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Aug 20th, 2012 | 09:56 AM
  #21  
Original Poster
 
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 84
Likes: 0
THanks for all the great suggestions and tips. Kimhe I'm looking forward to trying out those restaurants in Malaga. We are on a budget so not sure we can swing that parador but maybe we can find something else. We weren't able to find a good longer term rental in Antequera area or in Orvela so we have gone for Jimena. Once I have made it through our final packing and prep I am going to source accommodation for our stops.

Cowboy thanks for the parking lot tip. We can easily take bikes off rack - I will get my husband to verify measurements etc. Grendel I am also pleasantly surprised how easy it is to find accommodation that takes pets. We are definitely planning to stop in Figueras and also Girona, either on the way to Barcelona or on the way back to France. Basque country may need to wait for another trip...
kpiepen is offline  
Old Aug 21st, 2012 | 01:41 AM
  #22  
 
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 5,934
Likes: 0
If you are going to spend a couple of days in Málaga on a budget, I can recommend affordable and great value Hostal Victoria. All amenities (private bath, tv, safe etc) and in the absolute best location. Have stayed here several times in recent years. http://www.booking.com/hotel/es/victoria.en.html

In general it's a good idea to do as most Spanish and have your main meal at lunch time at about 1.30. Then most restaurants will serve up a great value three course Menu del Día with drinks included for some 8-12€. And of course, the local food markets/supermarkets use to be a feast for the eye and the imagination. Fabulous produce and very economical, at least by my Northern European standards (sadly not by the standards of more and more Spanish these days).
kimhe is offline  
Old Aug 21st, 2012 | 03:52 PM
  #23  
Original Poster
 
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 84
Likes: 0
Thanks again Kimhe! We hoped to do daytrips as much as possible but overnight might be the better choice as it is a 1h45 drive to Malaga as well as to Cadiz. Jimena is not ideally located for trips to the bigger cities but we really could not find big enough, village based lodging in many other places. Most places were 1 bedroom or big villas out in the countryside where we would have less chance of meeting people and walking everywhere.

While there is a big expat community in Jimena I have been told the village retains its Spanish authenticity unlike the beach resorts along the coast. I have also found local contacts who are very helpful in terms of activities for our teens. At any rate we are all booked. Let's hope it all works out!!
kpiepen is offline  
Old Aug 21st, 2012 | 09:10 PM
  #24  
 
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 5,934
Likes: 0
As said, I've only been told very nice things about Jimena, and I'm sure you will have a great time.
kimhe is offline  
Old Aug 21st, 2012 | 11:06 PM
  #25  
 
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 8,247
Likes: 0
I've only driven through Jimena once, and in all fairness can not really remember what it looked like.
But in general, the villages in that (more off the main tourist trail) region have nothing in common with the huge tourist towns along the coast.
You can do very nice day trips from there, also to the Western coast/ C. de la Luz, e.g. to Tarifa, the huge Roman ruins/settlement at Bolonia, the cliffs trail thru the Coastal forest west of Barbate.. and of course the many trails right in the Alcornocales with the impressive cork oak forests.
For a day out "like the locals" you can ask your local contact about nice picnic areas in the area.. those usually are located in an idyllic setting with fixed BBQ, so you can bring and grill your own meat or fish. Keep an eye on fire restrictions or bans, though, and avoid on weekends when they get really crowded).
Cowboy1968 is offline  
Old Aug 22nd, 2012 | 08:56 AM
  #26  
Original Poster
 
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 84
Likes: 0
Thanks again! We will check these out. And I have been looking into your inland route a bit more Cowboy - Teruel and Cuenca look like fabulous places to check out. I could see spending a night in either place.
kpiepen is offline  
Old Aug 22nd, 2012 | 11:05 AM
  #27  
 
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 8,247
Likes: 0
When going from Reus to Teruel, you will pass thru one of the best wine regions of Spain (IMO of Europe).

The Priorat DOQ is besides Rioja the only region which may carry this most prestigous label. It's a fairly small region with spectacular vineyards and vineries.
The bottle is almost always at least €15-20, but you may want to sample just once to experience the unique taste. The surrounding region of Montsant makes somewhat similar wines, but at a lesser retail price.
In general, you may be surprised what quality of wine a mere €5 or 7 can buy you in wine section of a Spanish supermarket. Many have wines from the region specially labeled so you find them more easily. And can steer away from the more mass market major players like Torres (not saying that they would not taste good) that you can get anywhere in Europe.
Each village has its central square - though don't always expect fully-fledged restaurants. More often the central "bar" will also be your eatery. Walking around, you will hardly hear much "Spanish" being spoken. And we've seen a few "welcome" signs in villages where the Castilian phrase had been sprayed out. So, unless you know a few phrases of Catalan, don't be shy to use English. Especially with younger folks who are often really good to fluent in English.

While the ubiqious use of the Catalan language may have no effect on tourists visiting Barcelona (almost everybody in tourist-related businesses speaks English), it is important to know a few words when travelling by car.
You should learn the days of week if you want to park on the curb where it may be restricted on certain days.
And understand that if a road is "tancat" it means that it's closed at some point.
You can enter a parking lot or garage when the light indicates "lliure" (free/vacant). Well, and "complet" already looks like complete/full.
As really noone expects you as a tourist to have any spoken command of the language other than hello (hola) and goodbye (adéu) and thanks (gracies), there is not much to prepare for. The first and the last are said as hola and gracias in Spanish/Castilian (just that you don't lisp the C). And adéu is said as you write it (I hope that is also true in English lol).

Not only famous for wine, these Terres del Ebre are also rich of history, from the Templars with their castle guarding the river to the more recent tragedies of the Civil War. There are still the trenches on the mountain ridges and the old village Corbera d'Ebre - left as it was after the fighting had stopped. And you will literally walk through the streets with the houses bombed to rubbles or partially damaged left and right.



Teruel in Southern Aragón is probably one of the most "authentic" provincial capitals I've ever visited. Hardly any tourists though a nice Old Town with the famous Mudejar towers. Theoretically, you are still not in the Castilian-speaking part of Spain, but de facto "Spanish" rules once you crossed the border from Catalunya to Aragó(n).

In Teruel, we just parked on the curb where the paid parking zone ended and walked into town appr. 5 mins.
A few kms outside the city is Dinopolis, a mix of theme park and archeological site. I don't have the URL and did not visit, but I guess Google will find it in no time.
We have stayed in Teruel for one night, though, looking back, I am not sure if I would do it again. I can't even say why. Maybe it was a bit too quiet for a town.
An alternative just a bit West on your way to Cuenca would be Albarracín. One village to see - or even stay overnight if you want a fully historic immersion.
Parking is again on two regular lots with no height restrictions.

The drive from Albarracín to Cuenca will take you across a remote mountain range thru more pine forests with great vistas.

Cuenca sure is one beautiful and impressive town. You can't really go wrong to stay there overnight.
When I was there, we stayed at the small bungalow village Arco Iris appr. 5 mins out of town in the direction of Madrid with a regular gated parking lot.
It obviously had not the charme of staying right IN Cuenca's Old Town on the hill, but its bungalows had 2 br and a large pool/sports area. Larger than you'd expect by the size of the village. Each bungalow had a BBQ. Could be nice with kids. And it was cheap.
But when you check booking.com's map you will also find old convents or farm estates turned into hotels 5-10kms east/northeast of Cuenca. Also an alternative (and a more historic one) to staying in town (thinking about your bikes and the parking problem).

The Enchanted Town (Ciudad Encantada) near Cuenca is a nice sight as well. Bizarre rock formations on several acres of wood.. it's hard to describe but you shall find lots of pictures with Google to get an idea.


Going across Castilla-La Mancha, Don Quixote country, from Cuenca to Córdoba is unfortunately a territory of which I have no knowledge. Except for more Roman ruins near Saelices.
This heartland of Spain, Don Quixote territory, can still be baking hot in fall. Not sure if the sunflower fields will still be there, probably already harvested.

One obvious deviation from the straight line between Cuenca and Córdoba could be Toledo and/or Aranjuez. You won't have to drive into or near Madrid to get there. Just go West on A-40/N-400.

Sorry about the long sermon.. but I really like that part of Spain
Cowboy1968 is offline  
Old Aug 22nd, 2012 | 10:18 PM
  #28  
Original Poster
 
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 84
Likes: 0
Oh my goodness please don't apologize -this is all such great information. The details are extremely helpful. Thank-you! I think the area sounds very intriguing and I can't wait to go there.
kpiepen is offline  
Related Topics
Thread
Original Poster
Forum
Replies
Last Post
daria
Europe
23
Mar 16th, 2018 10:54 AM
tequilamary
Europe
5
Aug 8th, 2010 07:13 PM
munroj
Europe
7
Mar 16th, 2009 03:01 PM
dpavluck
Europe
5
Apr 11th, 2008 07:48 AM
Avery6
Europe
5
Sep 10th, 2005 11:04 AM

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are On



Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement -