Southern Spain Itinerary Feedback?
Oct 19th, 2012, 03:56 PM
#21
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I can understand the extra day in Ronda given your interest in seeing the caves and in stopping in Carmona on the way to Seville. But as CathyM said, it would be wonderful if you could find a way to add a day to Sevilla. I wonder if it would be possible to spend just part of the day in Carmona and head on to Sevilla afterwards? It wouldn't give you much more time in Sevilla, but it would give you some!
Even if not, I'm sure it will be wonderful - enjoy!
Even if not, I'm sure it will be wonderful - enjoy!
Oct 23rd, 2012, 10:04 AM
#22
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In Granada as I pen these lines, near the end of a 10 day trip. We fly into MAD, drove to Cordoba had half an afternoon plus the next day. This in our opinion was plenty to see all of Cordoba. Drove to Seville had Friday - Sunday which was perfect to see everyting including 4 hours of downtime on a Sunday PM. Be careful with Mondays in several cities as there a lot of places that are closed. We drove on Monday into Granada, stopping in Osuna for a nice walk and a local breakfast (worth the 3 hours we were there) and ended up in Granada. Upon our arrival at the AC Santa Paula (lovely) they tried to tell us that tickets to the Alhambra were all sold out. Checked in, internet purchased tickets for today. Were there all morning, 6 hours, and we saw every little bit. Wife and I are healthy and in great shape, so we walk everywhere, about 6 - 8 miles a day easy. Helps keeps the pounds off from the great food and drink. More to follow.
Nov 5th, 2012, 01:08 AM
#23
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Hello! Thanks to all for your spectacular help. Just back from this trip and wanted to follow-up with impressions & feedback in brief, for any one that may (in the future) find this thread and want to know what the outcome was!!
Day 1: Madrid. Arrival, stay for one night at Silken Puerta America.
The hotel was an experience and a 30 minute metro ride from city center. I'd recommend the hotel for 1 night, not more - certainly not for a Madrid-based trip. And don't spend more than 100 E. Not worth it.
Day 2: Madrid-to-Cordoba. Stop at the windmills of Consuegra on the way. Stay at Stay at Hospes Palacio del Bailio.
Loved the windmills - great few hour stop. Not more.
Loved the Hospes Palacio del Bailio hotel. It was amazing. Would *highly* recommend it.
Really enjoyed Cordoba over all. For us, 2 1/2 days is what we needed to see everything at a leisurely pace. If you're into history and lingering, then don't rush through the city in 1 day.
Day 3: Cordoba. City tour, including the Mezquita.
Loved the Mezquita. Happily got the audio guide. Would recommend both.
Day 4: Cordoba. Tour Medina Azahara.
Loved this too. We hired a guide on the bus going to the site for 10E a person. He was really knowledge and made this site something that we could appreciate. Otherwise, there is no audio guide nor place cards that can tell where you are. The museum helps but I'd recommend a guide. Made all the difference.
Day 5: Cordoba-Malaga. Hotel Molin Alario. City tour.
The hotel Molin Alario was fine. It was a non-descript, could-be-anywhere hotel full of tourists. We spent less than 24 hours in the city. For us, it was enough. The Alcazar was interesting and the city fun to see but we weren't seduced by Malaga. Could have easily skipped it.
Day 6: Casa Olea. Bodega tour at Bodegas Alvear, Montilla
Loved Casa Olea. Being in the countryside was a great break and the owners, Tim and Claire, are fabulous. Had a really nice time here relaxing and slowing down. Would highly recommend.
The Bodegas Alvear was okay though I would not recommend eating in their restaurant on-site. It was not good (and they played bad pop rock really loud...).
Day 7: Casa Olea.
Great day touring the villages around Priego de Cordoba. Went to Almendilla - a roman villa - had an excellent tour of the site. Enjoyed it very much.
Day 8: Granada. Stay at Villa Oniria. City tour during the day. Bathhouse at night.
Bathhouses - Hamman Al-Andalus - were incredible. So much so we booked for Sunday night too. Would highly recommend it - and go for the 15 minute massage. It was stellar.
Villa Oniria was slightly disappointing - their rooms could use a new lick of paint and the floors were kind of stained. We moved rooms and it helped - the first one had the sink in a closet?? Still, great location & the beds were comfortable. In the end, it worked.
Granada wasn't our cup of tea at first - too touristy. But it definitely grew on us quickly and we thoroughly enjoyed walking through the Albacin. Would recommend staying in that part of town at a smaller, more local boutique hotel. The Albacin has loads of charm.
Day 9: Granada. Full day at the Alhambra. Tours booked through the Alhambra.
Loved the Alhambra but had MAJOR issues with our tour. In short, they decided to change the tour so we weren't allowed in all the rooms/ palaces that we precisely booked for. Our group revolted and our tour guide showed us how to sneak in....While we got to see the rooms, sneaking behind guards wasn't ideal, especially since we paid to see those rooms....
The tour guide's English was not strong and I have to say, it was the worst tour I've ever had. I would recommend booking with an outside company or guide. Apparently, this sort of thing is common with the Alhambra and it is very poorly organized.
That said, we stayed for 9 hours (!) and thoroughly enjoyed the Alhambra, separate to the tour.
Lunch at the Parador on site was great and a welcome break. A bit expensive but would recommend. Felt indulgent and relaxing.
Day 10: Granada-Ronda. Stay at Catalonia Reina Victoria. City tour.
Ronda totally disappointed and YES everyone here was right - we did not need 2 nights here. We HATED this hotel. Hated it. They were nice and gave us our money back for the 2nd night and we left Ronda, moving up our trip to have more time in Seville as was suggested here.
Ronda is a fine day trip - literally a few hours - not more. And if you want to stay, stay in the old town where it is charming. The Catalonia Reina Victoria was a total disappointment and in an apartment-building residential area. UGH.
Day 11: Ronda. Ruins at Acinipo. Prehistoric caves. Dinner at Tragabuches.
Never did this - in the end, went to Casa de Carmona and the Roman necropolis on this day instead.
Casa de Carmona is absolutely stunning. A very cool Moorish palace. Would HIGHLY recommend to everyone. Book room number 10 if you can. It was a pure delight and we wanted to stay longer.
The Roman necropolis was cool and would recommend if you're into that sort of thing. If not, it may be less interesting.
Day 12: Casa de Carmona. Roman necropolis and amphitheater.
Spent the day here at Italica. We got the book at the entrance and read through everything in detail. If you're into history, do that. If not, this is a nice 1 1/2 hour trip, I'd say. It's hard to understand what is what without a guide book or a guide.
Stayed at Hotel Elizira Plaza at night instead.....Our first night was retched. The room was on the ground floor and it was like the entire plaza was sleeping with us. We did not sleep. The room was full of dust. It was horrible.
We complained and they not only moved our room but refunded that night. The next room the next night was a MASSIVE improvement. Made it a really sweet hotel in the end. The room was charming and the location cannot be beat. Definitely recommended for the location.
If you get a good price here, I'd recommend it but I wouldn't pay more than 100E. Don't add on the breakfast - not worth it at all. Better to have coffee for 1.50E elsewhere.
Also, if you do book here specifically request to be on floor 1 or 2 and not in room 001 (on the ground floor). It will literally change your experience.
Day 13: Seville. Hotel Elizira Plaza. City tour.
Loved Seville, thought it was spectacular, didn't want to leave!
Had an amazing dinner this night at Santo in the EME Hotel. Brilliant food & a welcomed break from tapas, tapas, tapas.
Day 14: Seville. Italica.
Spend this day doing more city tours. Loved it all.
Day 15: Seville-Madrid -Home.
Easy 5 hour drive from Seville to Madrid. Not much in the way of rest stop food (we were starving!!) so prepare for that but otherwise, a simple drive, easily done in 1 day.
Other tips?
> Because the places we visited were not too far from each other, it didn't feel like too much driving at all.
> Hotel breakfasts, for the most part, are not worth it. The exception for us was Hospes Palacio de Bailo in Cordoba.
> Tapas are great for 2 nights, not 15. We went to restaurants and non-Spanish places 1/4 into the trip and made it all the difference. I love eating local but we just couldn't do more ham.
> Parking is tough. Have a plan for where to park or be prepared to either pay a lot for the hotel to park your car, OR to park in the suburbs and walk.
> Andalucia for us was a place that made you work for the right experience. Be prepared, plan and you'll love it. We liked our more spontaneous moments but it's not an easy region to explore and we felt that we had to work to get under the skin a bit. But once you scratch the surface, it is thoroughly enjoyable, beautiful, and charming. Would recommend!
> Some good hotel resources: i-escape, tablet hotels, guardian, sawdays.
> If you have time, explore the countryside. It's beautiful.
Hope this helps someone and thanks again!!
Day 1: Madrid. Arrival, stay for one night at Silken Puerta America.
The hotel was an experience and a 30 minute metro ride from city center. I'd recommend the hotel for 1 night, not more - certainly not for a Madrid-based trip. And don't spend more than 100 E. Not worth it.
Day 2: Madrid-to-Cordoba. Stop at the windmills of Consuegra on the way. Stay at Stay at Hospes Palacio del Bailio.
Loved the windmills - great few hour stop. Not more.
Loved the Hospes Palacio del Bailio hotel. It was amazing. Would *highly* recommend it.
Really enjoyed Cordoba over all. For us, 2 1/2 days is what we needed to see everything at a leisurely pace. If you're into history and lingering, then don't rush through the city in 1 day.
Day 3: Cordoba. City tour, including the Mezquita.
Loved the Mezquita. Happily got the audio guide. Would recommend both.
Day 4: Cordoba. Tour Medina Azahara.
Loved this too. We hired a guide on the bus going to the site for 10E a person. He was really knowledge and made this site something that we could appreciate. Otherwise, there is no audio guide nor place cards that can tell where you are. The museum helps but I'd recommend a guide. Made all the difference.
Day 5: Cordoba-Malaga. Hotel Molin Alario. City tour.
The hotel Molin Alario was fine. It was a non-descript, could-be-anywhere hotel full of tourists. We spent less than 24 hours in the city. For us, it was enough. The Alcazar was interesting and the city fun to see but we weren't seduced by Malaga. Could have easily skipped it.
Day 6: Casa Olea. Bodega tour at Bodegas Alvear, Montilla
Loved Casa Olea. Being in the countryside was a great break and the owners, Tim and Claire, are fabulous. Had a really nice time here relaxing and slowing down. Would highly recommend.
The Bodegas Alvear was okay though I would not recommend eating in their restaurant on-site. It was not good (and they played bad pop rock really loud...).
Day 7: Casa Olea.
Great day touring the villages around Priego de Cordoba. Went to Almendilla - a roman villa - had an excellent tour of the site. Enjoyed it very much.
Day 8: Granada. Stay at Villa Oniria. City tour during the day. Bathhouse at night.
Bathhouses - Hamman Al-Andalus - were incredible. So much so we booked for Sunday night too. Would highly recommend it - and go for the 15 minute massage. It was stellar.
Villa Oniria was slightly disappointing - their rooms could use a new lick of paint and the floors were kind of stained. We moved rooms and it helped - the first one had the sink in a closet?? Still, great location & the beds were comfortable. In the end, it worked.
Granada wasn't our cup of tea at first - too touristy. But it definitely grew on us quickly and we thoroughly enjoyed walking through the Albacin. Would recommend staying in that part of town at a smaller, more local boutique hotel. The Albacin has loads of charm.
Day 9: Granada. Full day at the Alhambra. Tours booked through the Alhambra.
Loved the Alhambra but had MAJOR issues with our tour. In short, they decided to change the tour so we weren't allowed in all the rooms/ palaces that we precisely booked for. Our group revolted and our tour guide showed us how to sneak in....While we got to see the rooms, sneaking behind guards wasn't ideal, especially since we paid to see those rooms....
The tour guide's English was not strong and I have to say, it was the worst tour I've ever had. I would recommend booking with an outside company or guide. Apparently, this sort of thing is common with the Alhambra and it is very poorly organized.
That said, we stayed for 9 hours (!) and thoroughly enjoyed the Alhambra, separate to the tour.
Lunch at the Parador on site was great and a welcome break. A bit expensive but would recommend. Felt indulgent and relaxing.
Day 10: Granada-Ronda. Stay at Catalonia Reina Victoria. City tour.
Ronda totally disappointed and YES everyone here was right - we did not need 2 nights here. We HATED this hotel. Hated it. They were nice and gave us our money back for the 2nd night and we left Ronda, moving up our trip to have more time in Seville as was suggested here.
Ronda is a fine day trip - literally a few hours - not more. And if you want to stay, stay in the old town where it is charming. The Catalonia Reina Victoria was a total disappointment and in an apartment-building residential area. UGH.
Day 11: Ronda. Ruins at Acinipo. Prehistoric caves. Dinner at Tragabuches.
Never did this - in the end, went to Casa de Carmona and the Roman necropolis on this day instead.
Casa de Carmona is absolutely stunning. A very cool Moorish palace. Would HIGHLY recommend to everyone. Book room number 10 if you can. It was a pure delight and we wanted to stay longer.
The Roman necropolis was cool and would recommend if you're into that sort of thing. If not, it may be less interesting.
Day 12: Casa de Carmona. Roman necropolis and amphitheater.
Spent the day here at Italica. We got the book at the entrance and read through everything in detail. If you're into history, do that. If not, this is a nice 1 1/2 hour trip, I'd say. It's hard to understand what is what without a guide book or a guide.
Stayed at Hotel Elizira Plaza at night instead.....Our first night was retched. The room was on the ground floor and it was like the entire plaza was sleeping with us. We did not sleep. The room was full of dust. It was horrible.
We complained and they not only moved our room but refunded that night. The next room the next night was a MASSIVE improvement. Made it a really sweet hotel in the end. The room was charming and the location cannot be beat. Definitely recommended for the location.
If you get a good price here, I'd recommend it but I wouldn't pay more than 100E. Don't add on the breakfast - not worth it at all. Better to have coffee for 1.50E elsewhere.
Also, if you do book here specifically request to be on floor 1 or 2 and not in room 001 (on the ground floor). It will literally change your experience.
Day 13: Seville. Hotel Elizira Plaza. City tour.
Loved Seville, thought it was spectacular, didn't want to leave!
Had an amazing dinner this night at Santo in the EME Hotel. Brilliant food & a welcomed break from tapas, tapas, tapas.
Day 14: Seville. Italica.
Spend this day doing more city tours. Loved it all.
Day 15: Seville-Madrid -Home.
Easy 5 hour drive from Seville to Madrid. Not much in the way of rest stop food (we were starving!!) so prepare for that but otherwise, a simple drive, easily done in 1 day.
Other tips?
> Because the places we visited were not too far from each other, it didn't feel like too much driving at all.
> Hotel breakfasts, for the most part, are not worth it. The exception for us was Hospes Palacio de Bailo in Cordoba.
> Tapas are great for 2 nights, not 15. We went to restaurants and non-Spanish places 1/4 into the trip and made it all the difference. I love eating local but we just couldn't do more ham.
> Parking is tough. Have a plan for where to park or be prepared to either pay a lot for the hotel to park your car, OR to park in the suburbs and walk.
> Andalucia for us was a place that made you work for the right experience. Be prepared, plan and you'll love it. We liked our more spontaneous moments but it's not an easy region to explore and we felt that we had to work to get under the skin a bit. But once you scratch the surface, it is thoroughly enjoyable, beautiful, and charming. Would recommend!
> Some good hotel resources: i-escape, tablet hotels, guardian, sawdays.
> If you have time, explore the countryside. It's beautiful.
Hope this helps someone and thanks again!!
Nov 5th, 2012, 07:57 AM
#24
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Thank you so much for your brief trip report and helpful hints and suggestions. I hope to visit Andalucia in a few years, & I really appreciate your advice. Especially about which hotels you liked & didn't like, how long to stay in a city/town, Ronda as a daytrip, etc. What do you think is the ideal amount of nights for Seville? Would it have been better not to have the car for the entire trip because of the parking issue?
Thanks again.
Thanks again.
Nov 5th, 2012, 12:28 PM
#25
I am also looking hard at Andalucia for this year or next. If my trip has to be short (it may), would a Cordoba/Sevilla/Madrid combo work? It seems, looking at maps, that Granada is relatively far away and that it takes a few days to appreciate its rhythms. Is that right?
Thanks for your report!
Thanks for your report!
Nov 5th, 2012, 12:39 PM
#26
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Leely2-
Logistically Cordoba/Sevilla & Madrid works well as they are all connected by the AVE train. I'm not sure how short your trip is but at a minimum you could probably do 8 nights but this would mean Cordoba would have to be a day trip. It does seem a pity to be so close to Granada and have to miss. This is why I generally recommend first time visitors to Andalucia to at least visit Sevilla, Cordoba and Granada.
Logistically Cordoba/Sevilla & Madrid works well as they are all connected by the AVE train. I'm not sure how short your trip is but at a minimum you could probably do 8 nights but this would mean Cordoba would have to be a day trip. It does seem a pity to be so close to Granada and have to miss. This is why I generally recommend first time visitors to Andalucia to at least visit Sevilla, Cordoba and Granada.
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