LuvToRoam

While researching our September 2010 trip to Poland we noticed a few recurring themes. 1- Polish people are very friendly towards visitors, 2- the food is delicious and 3- Polish drivers & roads are the worst in the world. Can you guess which turned out to be false?

Our Chicago to Krakow flight on LOT was comfortable thanks to the exit row seating we scored. Arriving in Krakow we were greeted by our pre-arranged Crazy Guides (http://www.crazyguides.com/krakow_to...irport_pick_up) driver, complete with an old Trabant, a jar of pickles and a bottle of vodka. Granted, a very pricey way to enter Krakow compared to other services, but definitely far more fun. He got us safe and sound at our apartment 7, ul. Boguslawskiego (www.holiday-rentals.co.uk/p87002) providing information about this and that along the way. We rented through Home-Away and would highly recommend this apartment. Clean and spacious with an outside balcony it was a perfect location. No lift but the third floor via steps was manageable. It was very easy to get to old town but quiet in the evening. We had no qualms about walking in the area at night either.

Based on other travelers input we decided to hire a personal guide to show us around Krakow. We chose Marta Chmielowska (http://www.private-guides.com/guide-...2142/index.php). She was a very knowledgeable guide giving us plenty of interesting history and local lore as we popped in and out of different areas. Marta arranged for her husband to drive us to Auschwitz one day and to the Wieliczka Salt Mine on another day. Once there we caught English guides (which she had also arranged)-private at Auschwitz and with a group at the salt mine, both very good. We were glad we had made these arrangements. The sites were much more meaningful and we didn't waste a lot of time and effort trying to get to them. We found Old Town Krakow to be enchanting, friendly, interesting, simply a great vacation destination. The Planty was a wonderful walk around the old town. We enjoyed two concerts while here as well, one at St. Peter & St. Paul Church and one at St. Aldalbert. Excellent! And the food, mmm, didn't have one bad meal!

We took a cab to the car rental place when it was time to leave Krakow and drove about 4+ hours to our next destination in the Bieszczady area (http://www.polandforvisitors.com/tra...zady_mountains) . This region, in the extreme southeast corner of Poland, is largely off the map for American tourists. We found that very appealing and did not regret this decision as this area was the highlight of our trip. We stayed at Dom Goscinny "U Barbary" (http://pensjonat-solina.pl/en/welcome.html) on Lake Solina, a lovely family owned B&B we would highly recommend. Not only was it immaculately clean and tastefully furnished our hosts Barbara and Seweryn Witan were very cordial. They invited Shirley and I to their home for drinks, dessert, gifts and a night of fine conversation. Barbara and Seweryn serve an awesome breakfast too, something different every day. Inquiries through the Ustrzyki Dolne tourist office connected us with a lovely student, Marcelina , who studies the Bieszczady as a hobby. As luck would have it she was on holiday from school and offered her services. This delightful young woman was an absolute gem! She has an in-depth knowledge of the area in addition to knowing about the flora and fauna of the area. We spent three days with Marcelina, visiting a number of interesting sites including unique wooden churches throughout the area, the Sanok Ethnographic Park (www.lemko.org/lih/travel/sanokm.html) , the Bieszczady Forest Railway (http://www.cisna.pl/asp/en_start.asp...nu=87&strona=1 ) ride in Majdan and an alpine grass-land (polonina) walk, all arranged by Marcelina. As an additional treat we were invited to her home where Marcelina's mother prepared a wonderful Polish dinner. Homemade tomato soup, two varieties of homemade Pierogi, home made apple pie and the crowning touch after coffee & tea, home made plum wine, while we had more pleasant talk! After that, out came gifts for us-we were sincerely overwhelmed by the hospitality of these wonderful people. In a nutshell, this is why we travel.

The last leg of our trip was spent in Zakopane. Touristy and crowded, even in September, we felt we would be violating some unwritten code-the first visit to Poland requires a stop in Zakopane. Our B&B was Pod Berlami (http://podberlami.pl/?lang=1). It seemed more like a hotel. Our room was very small albeit clean and there was a nice breakfast. A convenient location on a relatively quiet side street more than compensated. We had a very nice balcony (outdoor space is required for us) however no table or chairs or anywhere to sit. We noted that on all of the "balconies" we saw in the area. Found that odd, but oh well. This place had a Winoteka in the cellar and this was a pleasant place to wind up our evenings. Tom enjoyed the "hot wine" specialty and Shirl enjoyed the various selections the owner Jacek recommended. We found him to be a very interesting and colorful character. He is married to Malgorzata, the manager of the hotel. Ask him about sailing, then sit back, sip your wine and enjoy his adventures. Zakopane was okay, a touch too touristy for us, but more or less what we had expected. The surrounding landscape is what was the real attraction for us. Beautiful scenery dotted with quaint little villages is what we enjoyed in this area. A day trip enjoying the Dunajec River Rafting (www.staff.amu.edu.pl/~zbzw/ph/pnp/pien.htm) is definitely worthwhile, as is taking a horse-drawn cart up to Lake Morskie Oko and walking the lake trail.

We really enjoyed Poland. A beautiful country with simply beautiful people, surely the most friendly and hospitable we have met on any of our trips to date. The young people especially stand out and if you talk to them in depth most seem to have a 'dream' and a plan to make it happen. Very uplifting. And about those reported terrible Polish roads & drivers? Unfounded. We found Polish drivers were about the same as other countries we have visited and the roads almost better than those we traverse here in Wisconsin. This is a quick summary of our trip to Poland. Please take a look at a few of the pictures we have posted at http://home.roadrunner.com/~tomshirl/POLAND2010.HTML . If anyone wants more detail, or info on anything just email us. A more detailed trip report will be posted by Shirley in the near future.

adrienne

This spring I spent a few days in Krakow and can't wait to go back to Poland - I loved the little bit I saw.

Did you get to see any of the wooden churches in southern Poland? I so wanted to do this but didn't have enough time.

A friend just got back from Poland and used Marta's services too and thought highly of her.

Loved your photos! Zakopane has no appeal for me. From everything I've read about it, it seems like just another place to sell souvenirs to tourists.

Kwoo

Enjoyed reading your report as I am of Polish descent (but born in the U.S.). I've had pierogi, golomgki, cabbage soup all my life! We visited Krakow in 2003 & found it to be a beautiful & interesting city & the Polish people very friendly & hospitable. We also rented a car for 2 days & stayed overnight at the Kraszycin Castle, near Urkraine. So we did drive through southern Poland, & over the mountains. Without looking at a map, I think we were in the area you visited, but not sure. We didn't go as far as Zakopane.

I definitely want to return some day to see more of Poland! I enjoyed looking at your photos. The Cloth Hall looks pink in your photos?? I remember it as being yellow???

We hired a guide once, & that was to see Auschwitz. Were your guides expensive?

LuvToRoam

Kwoo, the Cloth Hall does have a pink cast in the photos and I think it was the weather; the skies were quite overcast. It is still a yellowish color . We didn't find the guides to be real expensive (of course we didn't find Poland over all very expensive compared to other European destinations) as we felt we got wonderful value for what we paid. Just the help in acclimating yourself to the area, setting up the cell phone, arranging for the proper guides at the other venues we visited as well as helpful little tips are well worth the price paid to a decent guide. We really lucked out this trip as all were very good.
Adrienne, the wooden churches were something our lovely little gal was quite knowledgable about in the Bieszczady area and she took us to about seven of them. Many have caretakers and while most didn't speak English, Marcelina was able to "translate". They are treasures and if it is on your radar screen then you would really enjoy them I'm sure. Each one was a little different. One of the "gifts" from her and her family were little glass etchings of five of the churches. We were quite touched and think of the beautiful area every time we see them.

adrienne

Thanks Luv - I definitely have to get back to Poland. So little money and so many places to go!!

adrienne

Is that you in the bathtub? Is that really coffee in the cup? LOL

Do you have a direct contact for Marcelina?

LuvToRoam

OMG! I can't believe he posted that!! And there is a terribly funny story about the bathtub too.... how to kill a mood should be the title. The hot water faucet was loose and came off as I turned it to the all the way on position-oh yeah, all the while hot water was pouring all over. Needless to say we don't travel with the proper tools to repair plumbing mishaps. We pulled the plug and cranked up the cold water. Luckily my hubby is a quick thinker and we did manage to get the faucet back on without scalding ourselves. Needless to say we needed a drink (and a dryer) more than anything after that!! He snapped the flick before I had the bubbles at full-blown capacity. We do have Marcelina's info and if you wanted me to send your email to her I would. She is back at school now in Łódź and very much missing her parents and her little village.

P_M

bookmarking, thanks.

latedaytraveler

Luv,

Thanks for such an interesting report of your travels in Poland. Have never been, but I am fascinated by the tragic history of Poland, a result of its geography. A while back I read an excellent book about an aristocratic Polish family who lost everything during WWII. Somehow, they survived, moved to England, but one descendant (the author) lately returned to Poland. The book provides a backdrop of the mid-late 20th century Polish experience along with the family’s color dysfunction.

THE LAST MAZURKA: A Family Tale of War, Passion, and Loss by Andrew Tarnowski.

thursdaysd

Good to read about your trip. I liked Krakow enough to go back - although it was much more crowded the second time (TR at http://wilhelmswords.com/eur2006/index.html). From Zakopane (which I also enjoyed) I'd highly recommend going further south to Slovakia - much less touristy and the same mountains.

adrienne

Here's thursdaysd's link

http://wilhelmswords.com/eur2006/index.html

LuvToRoam

When we are planning our trips (and we begin as soon as the photo album and trip report {at least the mini-report} are completed) we scour all the trip forums. I print out those that look interesting/relevant and then read them aloud to my hubby as we make our weekly trek to his Mom's place, about an hour away. Thursdaysd, your report was one of them
Latedaytraveler, we too find the history of most of the places we have chosen to travel to quite fascinating. Poland was especially intriguing. It was very uplifting to listen to people talk about their lives and all the opportunity that now exists for them. In recent history for Poland one can never under estimate what Pope John Paul II meant to and did for Poland and the Poles. We aren't Catholic but you felt it in the air when you were there. Almost the polar opposite of the Czech Republic, a country that really didn't return to the faith after the fall of Communism. Thanks for the book tip; I'll see if I can't get my hands on that.

SharonG

Have always wanted to go to Poland since my grandfather came from there. Thanks for the report and the pictures. Now I want to go more than ever.

thursdaysd

Thanks Adrienne - fodors really needs to fix that pesky parenthesis problem!

Glad to hear you read my report, LuvtoRoam.

Sher

I just returned from a trip which included Krakow. Of course, the time there was too short.
We hired Marta for a full day of sightseeing. She picked us up at our guest house at 9:00 which was in the center of the old town. She took us on a tour in her car starting at the birthplace of the former pope John Paul II which is over one hour away from Krakow. We then toured another Unesco sight. Returning to Krakow she spent the rest of the day showing us around Kazimierz and spent several hours explaining the sights connected with the former Polish ghetto.
Our final stop was the Schindler Factory Museum. She left us there at 4:30. A full day of sightseeing with a wonderful informative guide. And I will even tell you the price which was $150. There were only two of us touring but two couples could easy go in her minivan. The only extra was that I treated her to lunch which was not required but I offered. She took us to a family restaurant in the Jewish quarter where three of us had a delicious lunch for about $18.
I wouldn't hesitate to hire this wonderful woman again. This is the only time I have ever hired a private guide and I can see the benefits.

LuvToRoam

SharonG, do go now while it is still a relatively inexpensive Europeon adventure! We are from Wisconsin so perhaps that is why we felt such a kinship. There is a huge Polish population in our state and Polish food has always been a mainstay in our area. And we only saw a small portion of the country!
Sher, we enjoyed Marta for a half day and then her hubby, Chester also very nice and informative, drove us to the Salt Mine on one of the days we were there and Auschwitz on another. We watched a video in his van on the way to the camp and then immediately went with a private guide they had arranged. Especially for that very emotionally draining trip we were happy we hadn't chosen to go it on our own. A good guide truly does enhance the visit. We now put that $$$ in our trip plans, very well worth it! Additionally you really get a sense of real life from these people. On this trip we had guides that had lived under communisim as well as the young woman in the Bieszczady area who was born the year most see as the end of communism in that country. Great perspectives (especially for a political junkie like me )

LuvToRoam

An update on the place we stayed in Zakopane. I sent Malgorzata a link to our web page which has our little report and some pictures. She wrote back and said they do have furniture for the balconies but since September begins the windy and sometimes inclimate weather they bring them in....we merely needed to ask. Ahh, another travel lesson for sure!
Thanks for the book tip Latedaytraveler, I'm reading it now

Sher

LuvToRoam. Marta was the first private guide I had hired in Europe. We did have a couple in China years ago.
It was so worth it. I feel that it was money well spent.
As an aside I asked her how she came to meet Rick Steves. It was a kind of funny story.

bettyk

For those of you who have been to Krakow, was English widely spoken? We plan to visit next year and know a little German, but no Polish.

Susan7

Yes, in the tourist areas of Krakow you should have no problems with just English.