We drove through Fasano (en route to Ostuni) but didnt spend any time there, so this is new for me. Looks like that area has many good masserie and restaurants?

On your car rental observation, I also always carry an IDP but have never been asked for one at pickup. I understand not having an IDP can negate insurance coverage. I've often tried to read up country specific regs when renting / go through rental agency FAQs to get down to the bottom of this, but always found them (intentionally?) vague.

Anuj..A big thumbs up for Fasano. There are no "important" sights, but perhaps why the town seems relatively untouched by tourism. I think it would be an ideal place to rent an apartment for a week or a month....there are at least three excellent restaurants but none of these are at all what I would call "upscale." Just perfect, small, typical Pugliese eateries--each run by family. There are a few luxury maserie in the area and many, many moderately priced but lovely sounding spots both IN Fasano and in the area between the town and the sea.......when Borgo Egnazia was built, the area began showing up in travel/style magazines but that influx does not seem to have changed the town,, and nearby port of Savelletri, much----I think most people stay put at Egnazia, dining there at night... I really love Fasano....and the town is flat--good for walking....

I have read a lot of your Spain and Italy reports, you’ve opened my eyes to a different food scene than I am accustomed to.

I just wrote for 55 minutes and lost it all....! So annoyed!!

I cannot write this all over again,, so I will just now add two classic examples of what has become known as "cucina povera," which loosely means cleverly constructing delicious meals out of inexpensive ingredients....I can explain more, maybe later. As an example, instead of meatballs, fried rounded balls made from bread and cheese.

Restaurants featuring examples of this type of cuisine are abundant in the traditionally poorer regions of Italy, including Calabria, Basilicata and Puglia. Legendary addresses like CIBUS in Ceglie Messaapica (where we had two meals last fall) and L'ANTICA LOCANDA, in Noci, are somewhat upscale and refined examples; while Fasano has two restaurants which perfectly represent cucina povera in more rustic and simple surroundings, at very moderate prices. Before I lose this text, here are a few photos of these restaurants, where we've dined in the past few days, both are located in the town of Fasano, perfectly placed between the Adriatic coast and the more touristed towns of Locorotondo and Alberobello. Each time we visit, I fall more and more for Fasano, which is only bout a ten minute ride (including time hunting for parking) from our masseria hotel.




Locanda d'Mariume, in the historic center of Fasano; closed Wednesdays; a SlowFood designee

Main avenue of Fasano, edging the historic core

LOCANDA D'MARTUME. (unfortunately,, my phone battery died during dinner, so I have only a few pics....). We had a wonderful dinner, as we were seated near an American couple who knew and loved this area as much as we did, and we clicked with them, sharing stories and swapping recommendations. they were off to Bologna, by car (!!) the following morning, otherwise our dinner would have stretched late Ito the night...



Interior of MARTUME; presided over in style by Owner/Chef Vito Nardelli

No exaggeration, this was the best eggplant dish I've had in my entire life (12 euro)

Orechiette with a ragu of braciola (rollers stuffed veal)...perfect! (13 euro)

My fusilloni with strips of fried eggplant, cacao ricotta cheese, tiny tomatoes (so sweet!) and a pesto of basil..12 euro...outstanding!

My partner also had a chicken breast layered with spring vegetables and baked....the chicken here is so fr superior to any that I can buy in the US, even in the Greenmarkets.....I rarely order it at home, but here--it's a different story.....a few days later I had a totally different, and equally stupendous, chicken preparation....

With a glass of local Chardonnay and a bottle of water, our bill was 65 euro; prices have risen here in the past few years but the value remains exceptional

LA DESTINA DI ELENA.

This miniscaule and charming eatery at the edge of the historic center is run by Elena and Matteo Sansonetti; Elena presides over the tiny kitchen and the dapper Matteo bestows his charm, and flawless English, on guests, who often book a week or so ahead due to the popularity of this there-year-old restaurant. (I described it in detail in my report from last year...the inter rooms occupy a resorted Fasano home, complete with silk nightgown hanging in the rest room...)

We were running late and, Ince my partner cannot walk far, I pulled into a diagonal spot between yellow lines, reserved for residents of the Fasano ZTL. But it was after 8pm, so we took a chance...I shuddered to imagine dropping him off and squeeing through the maze of narrow lanes to find other parking... Matteo was outside to greet us and I showed him where I had parked and asked if it would be ok to else the car there. An emphatic "NO!!" was followed by the tip that, if we were ok taking an outdoor table, should be fine.... "Why?" Because when the police drive by and see an illegally parked vehicle, they give a loud whistle,, alerting any nearby offenders and giving them time to move their cars. I wish the parking police in New York City would follow this practice.

AT any rate, we left the car there, in full view, and took a tiny table on the sidewalk outside of the restaurant. Like other menus of this kind, one of the antipasto were those divine bread "meat" balls. I so wanted these--they ar addictive!! But I was not feeling too perky last night, so I kept my order very short; my partner did begin with that Pugliese classic, that I cannot wait to try t home--fave e cicorie...I think it's really healthy, too!! We had a lovely meal!



Our illegally parked car..in a spot reserved for residents living inside the ZTL






Terrace, on an evening in late May. By the time we finished, every table was taken





Matteo and Elena

My eggplant slices, layered with delicious tomatoes and served at room temperature...my appetite was lagging last night and I could barely manage half of this dish..

Again, our new favorite dish: Fave e cicorie, plated so prettily here; my partner let me have a minscule taste

Orechiette with bits of sausage and the famed capicola (ham from the neck and shoulder of the pig) from Martina Franca..superb!! Capicola from Martina Franca is prized all over Italy, and beyond.

Another pic of the exterior of LA DESTINA DI ELENA--Fortunately, we found no unwelcome surprise on the windowshield when we reached the car for the short drive back to the hotel..

I want some of this food! 😀

SusanP..I don't know how I am ever going to get used the usual meals back home, after this extravaganza!

RISTORANTE L'AGRUMETO, Pozzo Faceto (small village near the sea, within Fasano, home to at least two excellent restaurants that we tried.)

The one we liked best was L'AGRUMETO, handsome indoor dining room with beautifully lit outdoor terrace shaded by grapes vines....very romantic!!

Our second dinner here, on a Saturday night, coincided with two large crisima celebrations. In Southern Italy this celebration is second only to a wedding in importance in the life of a young man and signifies his passage into adulthood. It is loosely translated to a Catholic confirmation when the bishop anoints the forehead of the celebrant with "crisma," holy oil.


The church event is followed, at a masseria (in Puglia) or restaurant, by a grand family celebration; the confirmed young man is assigned a padroni, or padrina, and an elaborate, multi-course dinner ensues, during which gifts are given and there is a lot of hugging and kissing...and eating!!! I was thrilled to have a front-row seat to the festivities, and I almost felt as if I was part of the two families which were celebrating at very long, elaborately set tables under the grape arbors.....just glorious, under a full moon.....all the invitees were very welcoming to these two American intruders!!

As if this was not great enough to behold alone, the food here is spectacular!! I'll combine dishes e had during both our dinners; the prices we paid for dinners were 48 euro, and 34 euro for the two of us.
Highly recommend this restaurant, especially on a Saturday night or for Sunday lunch when it's more festive than during the week.

L'AGRUMETO..four types of single cultivar oil await on the table...Owner Michaele recommended the Leccino for our pasta, and our (very great) bread

One of FOUR plates comprising the mixed antipasti...octopus salad; black rice salad; grilled eggplant; endive stuffed with ricotta; burrata; and mozzarella knots

On the second platter, in the center: Addictive "polpettinne di pane," the classic dish of the cucina povera of Puglia and Basilicata; two types of fried cheeses; a wedge of frittata; an "enclosed" focaccia; more eggplant; capocola from Martina, etc. (Cannot remember every one I detail, an by now we are both stuffed!!)

Next arrival, pureed fava beans with cicoria (cooked chicory) on the side..I drizzled the puree with olive oil and add salt...

Platter of raw vegetables including the exceptional cuccumarazz, the hybrid of melon and cucumber local to Fasano.. The price of this, and the above four plates, was 18 euro; the antipasti della casa in Puglia are justly famed throughout Italy and not to be missed.

Entrance to L'AGRUMETO





Ay, my memory..I just realized that I already posted our first dinner at L'AGRUMETO, above, so will share only some pics of the crisis celebrations on Saturday night, our second time at this restaurant:

I'm breaking this up into separate posts so I do not take the chance of losing long lengths of text, as happened a few days ago:


Tables set up for the party; guests seem to trickle into dinners about an hour after the scheduled time; I always asked our hotel to phone if I thought we would be a half hour late, as we usually were; they did call, but they always joked with me that it did not matter..no one shows up on time in Puglia..for anything!! In foreground is my plate of grilled sausage...grapevines hung overhead..it ws a glorious evening!!

The young celebrant....greeting his guests and accepting gifts of money and wrapped packages..and shopping bags...and many cheek kisses, and hugs

One of the decorations for the cresima..I see I've spelled it wrong,a babe...its CRESIMA..not CRISIMA..although online articles seem to prefer the latter spelling)

That endive-ricotta antipasto was hard to ID at first, very intriguing.
What a gustatory treat, your whole trip!
I am done. the napkin

On Saturday nights, when my parents would dress up and go paint the town--sorry, the suburb--one of our regular "dairy" dinners was celery stalks stuffed with Philadelphia cream cheese and "dusted" with paprika from a can dating from who knows when....that stuffed endive reminded me of those celeries...obviously it was about a million times better, but still...


Who knew?? (Although for us it was a main course!!)

https://www.allrecipes.com/grandmas-celery-sticks-cream-cheese-11941684

Out trip to Puglia was so memorable and one of my favorite memories was walking into a very rustic restaurant in Martina Franca for dinner with my 6’6” son and 6’5” husband and every one in the restaurant turned to stare at these strange Americans. It was a wonderful evening filled with friendly Italians (we were the only non Italians) and the table next to us was a large family group celebrating a confirmation and I marveled at all the kids still out eating and celebrating at 10 pm in the middle of the week. The only pic of food I took was this very Puglian offering.