Sono arrivato a Venezia
Dec 20th, 2014, 06:42 AM
#22
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It makes me smile to read of Venice
If you get a chance and have not already done: go to the Scuola di San Giorgio (very small, with knockout Carpaccio frescoes of San Giorgio and the lions), to the Chiesa die Miracoli, to see the small but very moving memorial to the Haulocaust in Canereggio, to Torcello for lunch, to the new Museo della Dogana, with its amazing interplay of very contemporary art, architecture, and big windows everywhere which add the life on the water.
Tell me where your hotel is. We are dedicated client abituali of the Pensione Accademia.
And if you are in Venice on a Sunday, the 9am mass at San Marco is amazing. Frescoes lit, not crowded with tourists, you just sit, pay a bit in the offering and watch the church doing the job it was made for (we are not religious, but prefer to see famous churches in this way)
Buon Viaggio!
If you get a chance and have not already done: go to the Scuola di San Giorgio (very small, with knockout Carpaccio frescoes of San Giorgio and the lions), to the Chiesa die Miracoli, to see the small but very moving memorial to the Haulocaust in Canereggio, to Torcello for lunch, to the new Museo della Dogana, with its amazing interplay of very contemporary art, architecture, and big windows everywhere which add the life on the water.
Tell me where your hotel is. We are dedicated client abituali of the Pensione Accademia.
And if you are in Venice on a Sunday, the 9am mass at San Marco is amazing. Frescoes lit, not crowded with tourists, you just sit, pay a bit in the offering and watch the church doing the job it was made for (we are not religious, but prefer to see famous churches in this way)
Buon Viaggio!
Dec 20th, 2014, 11:29 AM
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You probably won't get this in time, but if you take the vaporetto back, Burano makes a nice stop for an after lunch stroll. Go a view blocks beyond display of lace and crowds thin out. They are required by law to paint every building on the island every year.
Dec 20th, 2014, 11:34 AM
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What a day we had. First, I walked from my hotel to the Accademia Bridge (via the Frari, San Toma, the Ca Rezzonico area, etc etc) and watched the Babbo Natale boat race (Santas racing). What fun!
Then, I met my friends and we took a water taxi to Torcello, to Locanda Cipriani.
What a beautiful ride to the island. Once you enter the waterway that takes you to the restaurant and church, it is so still and quiet. We wandered around the 7th century church, Cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta. I was utterly mesmerized by the 11th century mosaics. Given that I won't visit Ravenna on this trip, these were a wonderful substitute.
Lunch was stellar. We had Prosecco as an aperitif and a few bottles of Valpolicella during the meal. Three of us got the prix fixe menu, which was gnocchi in a duck ragout and then fegato di vitello and then a dessert. The other two got a la carte and I didn't note carefully what they ate - scallops, fritto misto, and two other dishes. Then desserts, then dessert wine, then espressos, of course. Urf. So much rich food - just fantastic. It came to 75E a person and the water taxi came to 60E a person round trip for 5 of us - if anyone else plans to do this. The taxi driver took a different route home, past Burano and then well out into the lagoon where we saw the most amazing sunset.
Here are some photos, so far.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/skywal...57649443076618
Our meals noted above - so far, all have been excellent and I will go back to all of them in the future.
Al Vecio Marangon is simple food, nothing fancy, but good, and the owners are so sweet - they gave us each a small Xmas gift (a number of the group were regulars there). We had food all around for the table and Prosecco and Valpolicella (see a theme here?) and the total was 30E per person (when in a group, we just split it evenly. Too much hassle to sort out otherwise. It all comes out in the wash).
La Zucca is usually repeated a few times on any trip. It's a 5 minute walk from my hotel and about the same from my friends' flat. We had a lot of pasta, a lot of veg sides, a few carafes of wine, dessert for each of us, and the total was 40E a person.
Alle Testiere, as mentioned, came to 100E a person. I am not a seafood fan and this was all seafood - and I loved every bite of it. I believe it closes quite soon for a good chunk of the winter so I won't be back again until next time, but, I will definitely return. Our meal consisted of Prosecco to start, Valpolicella bottle (yes, again) and my meal was scallops on the shell to start, and, a gnocchi in swordfish ragout. My friends had: tagliatelle in truffle shavings (that pasta dish alone was 38E) and a sweet and sour prawn dish, and, razor clams starter and also octopus and cuttle fish as a dish (the restaurant was happy to serve her half and half, as she couldn't decide which she preferred). We had dessert and dessert wine.
Frary was our cheap meal so far. It's a Mediterranean restaurant and we had various mezze and Prosecco (no Valpolicella, go figure). 21E a person.
I will describe the Fortuny exhibit later...
Then, I met my friends and we took a water taxi to Torcello, to Locanda Cipriani.
What a beautiful ride to the island. Once you enter the waterway that takes you to the restaurant and church, it is so still and quiet. We wandered around the 7th century church, Cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta. I was utterly mesmerized by the 11th century mosaics. Given that I won't visit Ravenna on this trip, these were a wonderful substitute.
Lunch was stellar. We had Prosecco as an aperitif and a few bottles of Valpolicella during the meal. Three of us got the prix fixe menu, which was gnocchi in a duck ragout and then fegato di vitello and then a dessert. The other two got a la carte and I didn't note carefully what they ate - scallops, fritto misto, and two other dishes. Then desserts, then dessert wine, then espressos, of course. Urf. So much rich food - just fantastic. It came to 75E a person and the water taxi came to 60E a person round trip for 5 of us - if anyone else plans to do this. The taxi driver took a different route home, past Burano and then well out into the lagoon where we saw the most amazing sunset.
Here are some photos, so far.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/skywal...57649443076618
Our meals noted above - so far, all have been excellent and I will go back to all of them in the future.
Al Vecio Marangon is simple food, nothing fancy, but good, and the owners are so sweet - they gave us each a small Xmas gift (a number of the group were regulars there). We had food all around for the table and Prosecco and Valpolicella (see a theme here?) and the total was 30E per person (when in a group, we just split it evenly. Too much hassle to sort out otherwise. It all comes out in the wash).
La Zucca is usually repeated a few times on any trip. It's a 5 minute walk from my hotel and about the same from my friends' flat. We had a lot of pasta, a lot of veg sides, a few carafes of wine, dessert for each of us, and the total was 40E a person.
Alle Testiere, as mentioned, came to 100E a person. I am not a seafood fan and this was all seafood - and I loved every bite of it. I believe it closes quite soon for a good chunk of the winter so I won't be back again until next time, but, I will definitely return. Our meal consisted of Prosecco to start, Valpolicella bottle (yes, again) and my meal was scallops on the shell to start, and, a gnocchi in swordfish ragout. My friends had: tagliatelle in truffle shavings (that pasta dish alone was 38E) and a sweet and sour prawn dish, and, razor clams starter and also octopus and cuttle fish as a dish (the restaurant was happy to serve her half and half, as she couldn't decide which she preferred). We had dessert and dessert wine.
Frary was our cheap meal so far. It's a Mediterranean restaurant and we had various mezze and Prosecco (no Valpolicella, go figure). 21E a person.
I will describe the Fortuny exhibit later...
Dec 21st, 2014, 06:31 AM
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Another quick update for now.
I met up with one of my friends to see a few things on Isola San Giorgio Maggiore.
The first was the space "Le Stanze del Vetro" which currently has an exhibit on "Tomaso Buzzi alla Venini". Le Stanze del Vetro is a joint collaboration between the Fondazione Giorgio Cini and Pentragram Stiftung (in case you would like to look them up).
Paolo Venini (1895-1959) had a prominent glass studio on Murano. Over the years he worked with a variety of designers, and, for the past three years this small museum has showcased one of each of the designers who designed for him. Tomaso Buzzi is the third one, with the two previous exhibits focusing on Carlos Scarpa one year and Napoleone Martinuzzi another year. Next year will be the year for Fulvio Bianconi.
The pieces were just exquisite. I still have not visited Murano (nor Burano), despite this being trip number 7 to Venice, and it's clear I must change that, this year. We did cruise by both yesterday in our water taxi, though.
At any rate, the exhibit. Previous to this most of what I've seen that were Murano pieces were in the form of chandeliers, mostly in a flower motif. I didn't particularly care for these style of chandeliers although I could appreciate where they came from and their artistic value.
I have a new opinion of Murano glass now! I wanted to take all of them home with me (although that could be problematic as clearly I wouldn't have made it home, at all).
Tomaso Buzzi collaborated with Venini starting in the early 1930s. He was already a prominent architect from Milan. His design vision included inspirations from Etruscan art and he helped to introduce a new method of creating glassware art, using a several layers of color and gold leaf. He chose soft and delicate colors, mostly pastels although there were a few bright turquoise and black vases. This is a contrast with the other artists from other years which were much less delicate in appearance and much bolder in color (I preferred T. Buzzi's over the previous artists' catalogs I looked at, in their gift shop).
http://www.lestanzedelvetro.it/en
After we walked outside, we strolled over to the "Glass Tea House Mondrian" which was designed by Hiroshi Sugimoto. A small, peaceful Japanese Garden - mostly a serene blue-tile-lined pool, with the glass house at the end of it.
The above was free, the below was 10E pp.
Finally we wandered over to the Cini Foundation itself for a guided tour of the grounds and interior. I will write more about this later.
On the way home, we stopped at Bar Toletta for some Tremezzini - I was starving. Prosecco, a spritz - fortified, off we went.
Tonight will be dinner at Estro, a wine bar near San Rocco.
http://venetianvine.com/vine-locatio...vino-e-cucina/
Before I forget: I bought four books at Toletta the other day that would be of some interest here.
Three of them are by Alberto Toso Fei. "Venezia Enigma", "The Secrets of the Grand Canal", "Venetian Legends and Ghost Stories". The fourth is by Tiziano Scarpa and is called "Venice is a Fish". I've dipped into the Grand Canal one so far and it's quite good. Each story is roughly a page and a half long and there are tons of old B&W photos inside.
Enjoy! More later...
I met up with one of my friends to see a few things on Isola San Giorgio Maggiore.
The first was the space "Le Stanze del Vetro" which currently has an exhibit on "Tomaso Buzzi alla Venini". Le Stanze del Vetro is a joint collaboration between the Fondazione Giorgio Cini and Pentragram Stiftung (in case you would like to look them up).
Paolo Venini (1895-1959) had a prominent glass studio on Murano. Over the years he worked with a variety of designers, and, for the past three years this small museum has showcased one of each of the designers who designed for him. Tomaso Buzzi is the third one, with the two previous exhibits focusing on Carlos Scarpa one year and Napoleone Martinuzzi another year. Next year will be the year for Fulvio Bianconi.
The pieces were just exquisite. I still have not visited Murano (nor Burano), despite this being trip number 7 to Venice, and it's clear I must change that, this year. We did cruise by both yesterday in our water taxi, though.
At any rate, the exhibit. Previous to this most of what I've seen that were Murano pieces were in the form of chandeliers, mostly in a flower motif. I didn't particularly care for these style of chandeliers although I could appreciate where they came from and their artistic value.
I have a new opinion of Murano glass now! I wanted to take all of them home with me (although that could be problematic as clearly I wouldn't have made it home, at all).
Tomaso Buzzi collaborated with Venini starting in the early 1930s. He was already a prominent architect from Milan. His design vision included inspirations from Etruscan art and he helped to introduce a new method of creating glassware art, using a several layers of color and gold leaf. He chose soft and delicate colors, mostly pastels although there were a few bright turquoise and black vases. This is a contrast with the other artists from other years which were much less delicate in appearance and much bolder in color (I preferred T. Buzzi's over the previous artists' catalogs I looked at, in their gift shop).
http://www.lestanzedelvetro.it/en
After we walked outside, we strolled over to the "Glass Tea House Mondrian" which was designed by Hiroshi Sugimoto. A small, peaceful Japanese Garden - mostly a serene blue-tile-lined pool, with the glass house at the end of it.
The above was free, the below was 10E pp.
Finally we wandered over to the Cini Foundation itself for a guided tour of the grounds and interior. I will write more about this later.
On the way home, we stopped at Bar Toletta for some Tremezzini - I was starving. Prosecco, a spritz - fortified, off we went.
Tonight will be dinner at Estro, a wine bar near San Rocco.
http://venetianvine.com/vine-locatio...vino-e-cucina/
Before I forget: I bought four books at Toletta the other day that would be of some interest here.
Three of them are by Alberto Toso Fei. "Venezia Enigma", "The Secrets of the Grand Canal", "Venetian Legends and Ghost Stories". The fourth is by Tiziano Scarpa and is called "Venice is a Fish". I've dipped into the Grand Canal one so far and it's quite good. Each story is roughly a page and a half long and there are tons of old B&W photos inside.
Enjoy! More later...
Dec 21st, 2014, 06:40 AM
#27
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Again, before I forget:
Caffe Vergnano, next to Rialto Bridge, has good macchiatos. That's all I have had there so far. It has a view on the Grand Canal so would be a nice place to sit outside.
Viziu Vertu chocolates. There are a few locations but the one I frequent (both last January, and now) is at San Toma vap stop. I've only bought truffles to nosh on while walking. Under a euro per truffle.
Each vap ride is roughly 7E, so, if you think you are going to use it at least 8 times in the course of your trip (not at all hard to do, even on a short trip) it would be worth it to get a 60E weekly pass. Yes, I know 9 trips would be officially "worth it" but just the convenience is worth the extra four euros (8x7 = 56). Today just to go to Isola San Giorgio Maggiore and back was 4 vap rides and that is just one day. I tend to walk more than ride but clearly I've gotten my money's worth - just since Friday.
Caffe Vergnano, next to Rialto Bridge, has good macchiatos. That's all I have had there so far. It has a view on the Grand Canal so would be a nice place to sit outside.
Viziu Vertu chocolates. There are a few locations but the one I frequent (both last January, and now) is at San Toma vap stop. I've only bought truffles to nosh on while walking. Under a euro per truffle.
Each vap ride is roughly 7E, so, if you think you are going to use it at least 8 times in the course of your trip (not at all hard to do, even on a short trip) it would be worth it to get a 60E weekly pass. Yes, I know 9 trips would be officially "worth it" but just the convenience is worth the extra four euros (8x7 = 56). Today just to go to Isola San Giorgio Maggiore and back was 4 vap rides and that is just one day. I tend to walk more than ride but clearly I've gotten my money's worth - just since Friday.
Dec 21st, 2014, 06:43 AM
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Dec 21st, 2014, 07:34 AM
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>>Three of them are by Alberto Toso Fei. "Venezia Enigma", "The Secrets of the Grand Canal", "Venetian Legends and Ghost Stories". The fourth is by Tiziano Scarpa and is called "Venice is a Fish".<<
That's interesting. I bought the same books when I was in Venice with my sister. We must have the same list. I read "Venice is a Fish" on the flight home. Enjoyed it.
>>Viziu Vertu chocolates. There are a few locations<<
I could be wrong but I think there are two, and they're near each other. The one near San Toma sells chocolates and everything relating to chocolate while the other, near Traghetto Vecchio, sells pastries and other sweet things. My sister and I went twice to both. We loved the chocolates so much, we had to take gifts home.
>>Today just to go to Isola San Giorgio Maggiore and back was 4 vap rides<<
Not sure why it would cost 4 rides. 1 ticket is good for an hour, I think. It may take two boats to get to Maggiore but as long as you transfer to the second boat before your ticket expires, the transfer is free. Unless the rules are different for single ticket purchases.
I'm enjoying your trip report. Brings back good memories.
That's interesting. I bought the same books when I was in Venice with my sister. We must have the same list. I read "Venice is a Fish" on the flight home. Enjoyed it.
>>Viziu Vertu chocolates. There are a few locations<<
I could be wrong but I think there are two, and they're near each other. The one near San Toma sells chocolates and everything relating to chocolate while the other, near Traghetto Vecchio, sells pastries and other sweet things. My sister and I went twice to both. We loved the chocolates so much, we had to take gifts home.
>>Today just to go to Isola San Giorgio Maggiore and back was 4 vap rides<<
Not sure why it would cost 4 rides. 1 ticket is good for an hour, I think. It may take two boats to get to Maggiore but as long as you transfer to the second boat before your ticket expires, the transfer is free. Unless the rules are different for single ticket purchases.
I'm enjoying your trip report. Brings back good memories.
Dec 21st, 2014, 07:52 AM
#30
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Hi Wesley
re: the vap, you may be right. If so, that's still two rides in a day (out and back). I could see someone benefiting from this past in just a three day trip.
I was in the book shop with someone who moved to Venice and she pointed them all out to me!
Correction: Vizio Vertu.
re: the vap, you may be right. If so, that's still two rides in a day (out and back). I could see someone benefiting from this past in just a three day trip.
I was in the book shop with someone who moved to Venice and she pointed them all out to me!
Correction: Vizio Vertu.
Dec 21st, 2014, 09:05 AM
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Thanks so much for continuing to post, Flygirl--I'm taking notes! The books sound interesting, and I appreciate the bookstore link. I will be in Venice from January 2-6 and plan to eat at La Zucca the first night. Have you heard anything about Bistrot de Venise? http://www.bistrotdevenise.com Their historic menu looks interesting, and I think my 24 y/o son who I will be traveling with, would enjoy it.
Dec 21st, 2014, 11:25 AM
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My sister and I ate at Bistrot de Venise recently, mostly because we needed a place one night that served late. There are decorating aspects that we found odd and funny. At first we feared we'd fallen into an overpriced tourist trap. We were both impressed with the creative, very flavorful food and the quality of service. The experience, no matter how touristy, ended high on our list of favorite night's out.
We also ate at La Zucca and Testiere. We thought Zucca was OK, but we tired of the pumpkin quite quickly. You can certainly order dishes without it, but we went with our waiter's recommendations.
We had been to Testiere before, but we always find this tiny place packed with tourists. The food is good, but we found other places that we thought ranked higher.
One of our favorite dinners was at Il Ridotto. Not only was the food and service superior to anything else, we were flanked on both sides with lovely Italian couples. The elderly couple on our right came in from nearby countryside, while the middle-aged couple on our left were visiting from Bologna. The husband is a college professor who teaches history. Both couples spoke good English, and we were all enjoying the tasting menu and great conversation throughout the evening. Lots of fun.
We always limited our dinners to one bottle of wine, two savory courses and one dessert, which we shared. Our total meal price rarely fell below $200. If one of us wanted a dessert wine, our own dessert, or a side dish, the price could easily climb to $130 a person. A lot depends on the exchange rate.
We also ate at La Zucca and Testiere. We thought Zucca was OK, but we tired of the pumpkin quite quickly. You can certainly order dishes without it, but we went with our waiter's recommendations.
We had been to Testiere before, but we always find this tiny place packed with tourists. The food is good, but we found other places that we thought ranked higher.
One of our favorite dinners was at Il Ridotto. Not only was the food and service superior to anything else, we were flanked on both sides with lovely Italian couples. The elderly couple on our right came in from nearby countryside, while the middle-aged couple on our left were visiting from Bologna. The husband is a college professor who teaches history. Both couples spoke good English, and we were all enjoying the tasting menu and great conversation throughout the evening. Lots of fun.
We always limited our dinners to one bottle of wine, two savory courses and one dessert, which we shared. Our total meal price rarely fell below $200. If one of us wanted a dessert wine, our own dessert, or a side dish, the price could easily climb to $130 a person. A lot depends on the exchange rate.
Dec 23rd, 2014, 08:48 AM
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A quick check-in:
I wandered by Bistrot de Venise yesterday and if I have time I may go there for a meal, with or without my friends.
Estro was fantastic. Good wines (and liberal pours - I had a lot of water yesterday) and the food simple but also good. It is steps away from Pasticceria Tonolo. For orientation, it's near San Rocco church - a bridge away. On your walk from San Rocco (go through/under the sotoportego) you will pass a laundromat immediately after that bridge which is good info to have. I used it today...
I was a bit slow moving yesterday after the fun of the night before. I finally made my way over to Caffe Vergnano again and ran into some other friends who weren't at the wine bar the night before. Chipper chipper - they already had done a 6 mile wander and here I'm just dragging myself out for coffee. We stopped at Al Merca and they had prosecco. I wasn't ready for hair of the dog yet so I had a small tuna sandwich.
I didn't do a heck of a lot yesterday - just some wandering, photos, a few MORE books... then a disco nap before my friends party. Now was time for hair of the dog. What a fun evening! My friends rent a flat each year around this time and there were around 30 people in and out during the evening. This is the second year in a row that I've joined up with them and so I saw some friends who were new friends last winter, and some new-new friends as of last night. A couple had just moved here from California three weeks ago - literally upped sticks and moved. The wife of the couple has EU citizenship so they decided to "bet it all on black" and move over with their pets and furniture and everything. Other new and old friends were Venetians.. just a fun evening. How fun to be slowly putting down roots here (if you can count roots as having a good number of people you look forward to visiting when you arrive, and, your hotelier welcomes you as family now that you've been their guest four times...).
Today was more wandering. A common theme here. I will say that tomorrow will be a week since my arrival, I feel like I just got here, I still have a week and a half to go and my thoughts of doing a day trip (or 2-3!) are rapidly vanishing. I don't want to leave. NYCFoodSnob was right.
The books, which I bought at Libreria Studium - not far at all from Ponte Sospiri - are: Secret Venice by Thomas Jonglez and Paola Zoffoli, and, "The Secret Venice of Corto Maltese" by Hugo Pratt. The latter was also reco'd by a local friend here, and, the former I just happened to see when I was digging around.
Tonight is another party/concert! Will report back later. I was told I need to have on something which is red, and, to bring a secret Santa gift. Heading out in a few hours...
I wandered by Bistrot de Venise yesterday and if I have time I may go there for a meal, with or without my friends.
Estro was fantastic. Good wines (and liberal pours - I had a lot of water yesterday) and the food simple but also good. It is steps away from Pasticceria Tonolo. For orientation, it's near San Rocco church - a bridge away. On your walk from San Rocco (go through/under the sotoportego) you will pass a laundromat immediately after that bridge which is good info to have. I used it today...
I was a bit slow moving yesterday after the fun of the night before. I finally made my way over to Caffe Vergnano again and ran into some other friends who weren't at the wine bar the night before. Chipper chipper - they already had done a 6 mile wander and here I'm just dragging myself out for coffee. We stopped at Al Merca and they had prosecco. I wasn't ready for hair of the dog yet so I had a small tuna sandwich.
I didn't do a heck of a lot yesterday - just some wandering, photos, a few MORE books... then a disco nap before my friends party. Now was time for hair of the dog. What a fun evening! My friends rent a flat each year around this time and there were around 30 people in and out during the evening. This is the second year in a row that I've joined up with them and so I saw some friends who were new friends last winter, and some new-new friends as of last night. A couple had just moved here from California three weeks ago - literally upped sticks and moved. The wife of the couple has EU citizenship so they decided to "bet it all on black" and move over with their pets and furniture and everything. Other new and old friends were Venetians.. just a fun evening. How fun to be slowly putting down roots here (if you can count roots as having a good number of people you look forward to visiting when you arrive, and, your hotelier welcomes you as family now that you've been their guest four times...).
Today was more wandering. A common theme here. I will say that tomorrow will be a week since my arrival, I feel like I just got here, I still have a week and a half to go and my thoughts of doing a day trip (or 2-3!) are rapidly vanishing. I don't want to leave. NYCFoodSnob was right.
The books, which I bought at Libreria Studium - not far at all from Ponte Sospiri - are: Secret Venice by Thomas Jonglez and Paola Zoffoli, and, "The Secret Venice of Corto Maltese" by Hugo Pratt. The latter was also reco'd by a local friend here, and, the former I just happened to see when I was digging around.
Tonight is another party/concert! Will report back later. I was told I need to have on something which is red, and, to bring a secret Santa gift. Heading out in a few hours...
Dec 24th, 2014, 11:23 AM
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Having to sign off for a while but wanted to say, flygirl, how gorgeous the first set of photos are. That moon and the reflection shot under the bridge are especially noteworthy. Can't wait to read more!
Dec 27th, 2014, 05:42 AM
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Flygirl, thank you for asking. Tarquin is well, just a bit slow on his way downstairs due to arthritic back legs. His "nephew" Fergus from London is visiting us, segregated on the top floor of our house, but fortunately Tarquin has not realised that his territory has been invaded, tempted as we are to introduce them.
