Thanks for this extensive trip report. We will be touring the western half of Sicily in September. Can't wait!

Following lunch, I took a tour of the opera house, Thetro Massimo. It was interesting and fun to see the opulent interior. If I remember correctly there were 5 stories of seating. We were shown the royal box and "lounge". The woodwork in the lounge was amazing. I was surprised to see trash piled up even inside the halls of the opera house! It just seems strange that the people working at the opera house would not pick up trash at their workplace. Perhaps there is a union rule against this? Only trash workers are allowed to handle trash in any way? The Teatro was celebrating the anniversary of Verdi's birthday with a special exhibit of opera costumes from the 1800's thru the 1900's. It included stage dressing sketches and other costume sketches.

On Friday, my trip was quickly ending and the main objective today was Monreale. The hotel had recommended taking the AST bus for 3E which leaves right in front of the train station. Perfect! Uncrowded, clean and no pickpocketing problems. It stops in Monreale just about 2 blocks from the cathedral. The trips took about 40 minutes mainly due to traffic.

The main street of Monreale was very charming. Clean and lined with cafes, shops and produce stands. The cathedral itself is, of course, huge. Very similar to Cappella Palentina and Martorana, just much bigger. I would not recommend paying to go up on the roof to see an overhead view of the cloisters, not really worth the 2E. The cloisters were gorgeous! So impressive that each pair of columns has a unique story-telling caving on the capital. It's a very lovely photo op.

I headed straight back to Palermo because I wanted to visit the Botanical Gardens. I stopped into a cafe across from the gardens for a quick panino and was clearly the only non-local in there! The sandwich was good and cheap, the service fast.
Unfortunately the Botanical Gardens were a disappointment. Overall just very neglected. I did see a couple of people working while I was there, but only about 6 other visitors. Most of the plants and trees looked like they hadn't been watering in months, broken up sidewalks, weeds. Not the little oasis I had expected.

Recommend skipping this and going straight on to Villa Julia right next door. Free and well tended, more formal park/garden. It's a bit out of the way for most of the major sites in Palermo so probably not worth making a special walk on its own.

I don't have any dinner restaurant recommendations for Palermo. I was advised by my hotel not to walk around at night by myself. I had not really expected to receive this advice. I thought reports about Palermo street crime (pickpocketing and purse snatching) were exaggerated like driving problems.

During my walking tour with Jackie, I asked her advice and she recommended only walking on the main streets and not carrying anything "important" with me. Leave the passport, credit cards, expensive camera, jewelry in the hotel. Take only a few euros that you need in your pocket, best to wear your purse crossbody (which I did see all the local resident women doing). I had been wearing crossbody anyway for comfort and my replacement camera was not expensive, so I was not really concerned.

I asked the hotel to make an early dinner reservation for me on Friday night, and the first two choices were unavailable. They did get me a table at Maestro di Brodo, a short walk from the hotel. I took my euros in my pocket and nothing else. Trying to find the restaurant by the hotel's map, I did wander down some narrow vicoli. The steets were being hosed down and sort of cleaned up afte the day's market. It was the area of the Mercato Vucciria. I found it using my own sense of direction....

This was a disappointing last dinner experience. The food was very good, but the service rushed and rude. As a solo diner, I was given the worst table in the restaurant. The other tables were reserved for their regular customers (which I can understand). I sat next to the entrance and the cash register counter. My chair backed to the refrigerator so I got hit every time they opened it to get a cold drink out. I ordered the house antipasti which was great - a huge display of about 20 different dishes and you helped yourself. I couldn't tell what some of them were, but picked some of the mystery selections to try out. The best was the marinated octopus, tender and flavorful! The entre was swordfish kabobs, also very good. The waiter grabbed my antipasti off the table before I was even finished. I've never had that experience anywhere in Italy before. I was shocked. At least I got to finish my entre.....before I was swiftly presented with the bill and not asked if I wanted desert or coffee. Again, I've never had an experience like this before. Obviously I would NOT recommend Maestro di Brodo.

For my last day in Palermo, I thought I would see the "new city". I took the bus to Teatro Politeama and walked up Via della Liberta a few blocks, window shopping along the way! The new city has wide, straight streets, little trash, and obviously more money. A completely different world post WWII. As I headed back toward the old city, I stopped in at a little place in the Michelin green guide for a snack. This was an unexpected pleasure! I Cuochini - Via Ruggero Settimo, 68 - specialized in traditional street snacks, fresh, hot and delicious! I tried 4 varieties (appetizer size) and didn't need lunch after that. Seek out this little place for an authentic experience.

I had 3 more churches I wanted to visit and I walked all the way back to San Giovanni degli Eremiti. I was so glad I didn't miss this wonderful ancient church. So unique! The cloisters area is tiny and beautiful. Graceful columns and pointed arches, trees with red blossoms. The church had very few visitors and those that were there were doing some serious photography! This was a highlight for me.

Outside, I was ready for a rest and lunch (afterall) and found Spillo, La Birroteca, tucked just around the corner under the church - Cortile S. Giovanni degli Eremiti. They had some tables set up outside and I ordered a caprese salad and a glass of Pino Grigio. Both were excellent, the tomatoes so ripe they were sweet. Be sure to stop in here if your visit is near mealtime. The rest of the bar/restaurant is in the vaulted underground of the church. Very modern decor in ancient architecture. One of the things I love most about Italy!

At this point my feet were protesting, it was 4pm and I headed back to the hotel. Along the way I stopped into a wine store and bought a very nice bottle of Donnafugata Nero d'Avola 2006 to share with the other Americans on the roof top terrance. Had a rest, soaked my feet in the bidet and packed for departure EARLY Sunday.

A few more words about the Hotel Ambasciatore. The staff were wonderful and even granted a special request I had made. The roof top terrace is wonderful with really beautiful views of the city, the church domes and the mountains surrounding Palermo.

The location is great for sightseeing, but as a solo traveler receiving advice not to walk at night alone, the location was not the best. I had dinner at the hotel 3 out of 4 nights and their menu is limited and unchanging. Their best options were their pasta dishes and tempura fried vegetables. Also the little bar on the roof terrace has a very limited and inferior wine selection. Nice views, poor wine.

My conflicted feelings about Palermo - several really beautiful sights to see and I found some nice spots that I enjoyed. Overall, the city just didn't really capture my heart or imagination. I was able to see the highlights and that was enough. I probably would not return to the city if I were able to visit Sicily again.

Driving - after reading all the comments about driving in Sicily, I thought I could handle it but was prepared for more aggresive drivers, poor roads and difficulty finding places. I was very surprised at how easy it was, even in the cities (Trapani Agrigento and Siracusa). I did drive on some narrow country roads, but those had little to no traffic and were very scenic drives. I only saw crazy passing twice. The traffic just flows and I had no stress about it at all.

I had expected Sicily to be frenetic, chaotic, loud and dramatic. It was completely the opposite! My trip was relaxing, quiet, easy. The people I met and delt with were absolutely lovely, kind, helpful, very proud of their country and its history and eager for visitors to enjoy it.

I was surprised that several people brought up the topic of the Mafia. Both of these people were very much against the Mafia and said how it is still a very, very big problem for Sicily. They expressed frustration that 1,000 Mafia control 16 million Sicilians. They did point out that their last two Presidents are now in jail for Mafia activities and that there is a large, vocal anti-Mafia movement now in Sicily that is making progress.

I also learned that Sicily is an autonomous state in Italy. They have their own President, Parliment and make all their own laws. Something I didn't know. The other 3 autonomous states are 2 near the Austrian and German borders (which makes sense since they were part of those countries before WWII) and the 3rd I don't remember!

I had expected less English to be spoken, but I was surprised at how little. Usually people who work with tourists in hotels and restaurants have tourist English, but I had many places where there was no English at all. My limited Italian and both parties' willingness made it a non-issue.

I was also a little surprised about the food. I had expected many more exotic dishes and a wide variety. I was only able to get couscous once, in Erice and most of the restaurants where I dined had very similar menus. Maybe I'm not enough of a foodie to have searched out the highly recommended places. I thought almost all of my meals were very good and I had seafood dishes for most meals. Loved the swordfish, the fresh mozarella and the almond pastries!

I am so glad I visited when I did! Much thanks to thursdaysd and bobthenavigator for their spring time recommendations. I love the wildflowers and wanted to see Sicily all green and bright. It was gorgeous! Aside from the first 4 days with rain and then Scirocco winds, I had very good weather and it was plenty warm enough for my liking since I cannot tolerate humidity. (I live in a desert climate.)

I loved Sicily and would return if I could. The only thing I would change about my itinerary would be to skip the night in Agrigento so I could have spent 1 or 2 more nights at La Foresteria in Menfi. That was due mainly to the lodging choices! La Foresteria was heaven and the B&B in Agrigento was not.

From what I saw the tourists in Sicily were, in order - Italians, Germans, French, Brits, Americans, Dutch. And of course we can't forget all those school field trips!

Thanks for reading this long and detailed report. I hope it will inspire others to visit this part of Italy! If you have questions, I'll try my best to answer.

Ciao,
Dayle

Dayle, thanks so much for your report. It was wonderful to revisit Sicily with you. I often think about a return trip, so, about the Aeolians as an overall experience, what's your bottom line? magical/don't miss or not so much? Also, I recalled reading that it wasn't possible to go to the beach at Pollara--were you actually able to go onto the beach?

Thanks for the report, Dayle, I'm so glad you finally made it to Sicily and enjoyed it.

I liked Palermo more than you did, but I was staying in a B&B n a nice village-type street a little out of the center. And I would certainly spend time in Ortigia or Trapani in preference to Palermo. I didn't make it to the Aeolian Islands, but they are on the list for a hoped-for return trip.

Hi bon_voyage,

The Aeolians had been the first thing that caught my interest in Sicily and I planned my trip mostly around my time there. I stayed 5 days and really enjoyed it. I'm very glad I stayed at a villa rather than in town, only because I had aleady had enough time in other towns on this trip. My island time was the relaxing time! Lipari itself was a very nice town, but I imagine it would be much busier in summer.

If I went back to the Aeloians, I would go in maybe June, stay in a villa and do lots of time relaxing and doing boat trips. Pretty much what I did but with warmer weather for swimming.

I might try the little town of Malfa on Salina. It looked very appealing, next to where I stayed on this trip. The vrbo property I chose was perfect for me!

At Pollara, there was a very long pathway/stairs down and I didn't go the whole way due to a bad knee I was babying. Some other people went all the way. I don't think it went to the beach, but rather to some little caves/homes/boat houses in the bottom of the cliff. I'm not sure what they were. Just a guess. I do think it would be really spectacular to hike all the way down!

Grazie thursdaysd,

I owe much of my trip to you! I hope you are able to make it to the Aeolians.

Dayle

Great report, Dayle. Thanks for posting it.

Grazie mille, Dayle. I always need extra motivation to get on a boat, sounds like the Aeolians would be worth it.

Great TR, Dayle. DH and I saw what you saw on your first day on Palermo and then saw Monreale and took the bus to Mondello on another. We loved the Deco beach house there.

I never saw anything more exquisite than the Cappella Palentina and Monreale mosaics. Even the ones we saw in Ravenna (admittedly not all of them) weren't as astounding to me.

I'm so annoyed on your behalf about that dinner where you got such terrible service. DH and I were too early and not allowed in one place so the staff could eat but your treatment was horrid.

Where to next?

Holly, bon_voyage and TDudette,

Thanks for your comments! I've actually waited before at a restaurant when I was too early and did it in Scicli on this trip too. I don't mind that at all. Restaurant staff work hard and need to get something before handling all the guests!
But, yes, that place was just too rude.

What's next? I think New Zealand. I want to go do all the crazy stuff before I get too old!

Great report, Dayle. I so enjoyed reading it and revisiting Sicily with you. Thanks for taking the time to write it up; trip reports are a lot of work!

Welcome home, Dayle, and thanks for your wonderful trip report!

We leave two weeks from today -- I can hardly wait! We will be staying in Taormina, Siracusa, Vittoria (near Ragusa at the COS winery, and Panarea. Hopefully, Panarea will be a little nicer than when you visited -- by then, it will be late June.

I'm glad you loved Villa Romana. It is a little out of our way, but we are going to try to make it there to see the mosaics.

I'm wondering how you went about doing a boat trip on Ortigia. That sounded wonderful! Did you go with a company, and do you think it's possible to rent your own boat?

I loved reading about your adventures. Thanks again!

Hi dina4,

I'm excited for you! I think you will enjoy Sicily. Just be prepared for crowds at the major sites and in the resorty towns. It will be hot and humid so pack accordingly.

The little boat excursions around Ortygia are pretty much available on a walk up basis at the marina,although you might want to look into advance reservations since you are traveling during peak season. It's obviously on the harbor side of the island and several companies are available. My excursion was not a huge deal, but a nice way to spend a little time on the water on a warm day! I believe it was 30E per person and was about 1.5 hours. I do think there are boat available for charter, but I didn't investigate as I was traveling solo and am not very familiar with boating.

Have a wonderful time and eat LOTS of seafood, fresh veggies and fruit - delicious!

Buon viaggio,
Dayle

Thanks, Dayle. I think that might a lovely thing to do in the late afternoon...

And don't forget to enjoy a granite! Almost better than gellato on the hotter days!

I second the granite -- one of my favorite things about Italy.

Dayle -- wonderful report, with lots of great information. So interesting to hear your experiences and get your perspective. I admire your poise and intrepidness.

I'm so glad you enjoyed the Aeolian Islands and were inspired to visit based on my trip report. As you know, I think they are fantastic. I recommend giving Panarea another chance--a visit of a couple of hours doesn't do it justice (though that's how I was introduced to it as well, followed by a couple weeklong stays).

What a shame about the Stromboli portion of the trip. No way should you have been made to wait for the climbers. Do you think it was poor communication on Da Massimo's part, or did you just misunderstand? We've taken the Da Massimo Panarea/Stromboli trip, and waiting for patrons to climb the mountain was definitely not part of the deal. A good warning to others to double check and be sure what they are getting into.

We stayed a couple of times on Salina--a week based in Malfa and a week based in Pollara. Both were nice, but Pollara was magical. (Very isolated--not for everyone.) The steps down to the water actually aren't too onerous. They lead to a pebbly beach (as well as the carved-out caves that are used to store old boats, etc.). The cliff views are spectacular. There's no sand, but you can sunbathe on the rocks and swim in the somewhat protected cove. You should also scramble over the rocks to see a magnificent huge arch carved out by the waves. Put it on your list for next time, for sure! (Pollara is the location of Pablo Neruda's cottage in Il Postino--a wonderful film.)

Anyway, thanks again, Dayle, for your informative report. Happy travels in the future!

Buongiorno aprilliacs,

Thanks for your comments! I did remember you had stayed in Malfa, but forgot about Pollara. I did love Il Postino!

Unfortunately, I don't think I will have another chance to visit Sicily. I don't get to do "big" trips like this as often as some Fodorites! That's why I went for a long trip - one time shot.

When I booked with Dolce Vita, Elena was very prompt in answering my e mails and explained that I would need to stop in to their office on my arrival day to confirm and pay for my tickets (after the initial small deposit by cc). So I did that and Massimo explained the trip itinerary. He said we would be on Panarea for 1.5 hours (less than I had read on their web site) and on Stomboli for 4 hours. Fine. I thought a leisurely visit to Stomboli with some wandering and a long dinner would be just right. There was never any mention made that we would be waiting for the hikers. I think what happened was they didn't have enough people to do a non-hiking boat and just combined the trips without telling anyone. Not fair and not a way to get a good review. We sat on Stromboli for 6.5 hours with nothing to do!

I was supposed to take the Lipari/Salina trip with them a couple days later, but cancelled because I was afraid of getting stuck again!

If you are returning to the Aeolians, let me know if you want the listing for the vacation apartment I rented. It was great!

Ciao,
Dayle

Dayle, really enjoyed your report. I am working on mine since I got back two days ago. You and I had the exact same impression of surprise at how calm Sicily was. We, too, expected it to be chaotic and frenetic and didn't find it that way at all. Sorry to hear about your Palermo experience. It validated that we made the right decision to stay in Politeama area where I felt completely safe, even when I was wandering alone. Your TR was great and a joy to read.

Oh, and we really liked the same ceramicist in Erice that you describe and had the same experience there, too. Wanted to buy one of the vases but the shipping cost was just too high. and thanks again for the heads up about the coin and jewelry collection in the Siracusa museum.