Solo in Paris
Aug 18th, 2003 | 07:10 AM
#1
Original Poster
Joined: Aug 2003
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Solo in Paris
Hello. I will be in Paris virtually alone for the first time in early September. What are your suggestions for dining in moderately priced restaurants? Taillevant is beyond my means but I'd like to experience some good food and not eat all meals at bars - but I'll take good bar recommendations too. I'm staying in the Latin Quarter. I will have a linen dress or two with me but also jeans and casual pants.
How much French do I need to know?
Anything else you care to pass on?
How much French do I need to know?
Anything else you care to pass on?
Aug 18th, 2003 | 07:59 AM
#3
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 11,212
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Hi Pattycakes,
Paris is a very easy city to do solo. You won't need to know any French since all establishments dealing with tourists will speak English.
I have 2 recommendations for restaurants near your area where you won't feel out of place eating alone. Dress is casual - jeans are fine.
The first is an Italian restaurant on the corner of rue St. Sulpice and rue de Conde called Marco Polo. Look for St. Sulpice church on the map and follow the road west. Marco Polo is a short block from the church and they have a terrace for outside dining. It's staffed with Italians and they are warm and welcoming. Try the tomato salad, fresh pasta and the Tiramisu.
The second is Polidor on rue M. le Prince. They have tables for 2 put together so you might find someone to talk to. The food isn't great and some portions are very small like the roasted chicken so stick to something safe like beef burgundy or steak with carmalized shallots. They're known for their pumpkin soup. For dessert definitely have the tarte tatin (it's often pear, rather than apple) with creme fraiche. Polidor gets very busy so you might have to call out to a waitress as she rushes by - don't be shy about doing this.
If you're near Ile St-Louis go to the Le Saresin creperie. Everyone there is so kind to their patrons. The crepes and omelets are wonderful (dress casual).
If you let us know where your hotel is located you might get more suggestions closer to your area.
adrienne
Paris is a very easy city to do solo. You won't need to know any French since all establishments dealing with tourists will speak English.
I have 2 recommendations for restaurants near your area where you won't feel out of place eating alone. Dress is casual - jeans are fine.
The first is an Italian restaurant on the corner of rue St. Sulpice and rue de Conde called Marco Polo. Look for St. Sulpice church on the map and follow the road west. Marco Polo is a short block from the church and they have a terrace for outside dining. It's staffed with Italians and they are warm and welcoming. Try the tomato salad, fresh pasta and the Tiramisu.
The second is Polidor on rue M. le Prince. They have tables for 2 put together so you might find someone to talk to. The food isn't great and some portions are very small like the roasted chicken so stick to something safe like beef burgundy or steak with carmalized shallots. They're known for their pumpkin soup. For dessert definitely have the tarte tatin (it's often pear, rather than apple) with creme fraiche. Polidor gets very busy so you might have to call out to a waitress as she rushes by - don't be shy about doing this.
If you're near Ile St-Louis go to the Le Saresin creperie. Everyone there is so kind to their patrons. The crepes and omelets are wonderful (dress casual).
If you let us know where your hotel is located you might get more suggestions closer to your area.
adrienne
Aug 18th, 2003 | 08:57 AM
#4
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 12
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Hi Pattycakes, Another idea would be to ask for a local market. My husband and I enjoyed packing a lunch in our backpack.(crissonts, yogart. fruit. cheese.) There are wonderful places to enjoy a meal outside. When you've been museum hopping, you hate to have to then look for a place to eat. Have a wonderful time. Patty
Aug 18th, 2003 | 09:05 AM
#5
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 74,699
Likes: 0
Hi PC,
Across the street from the eglise St Sulpice is the Rue des Canettes on this street and the cross streets are a number of low to moderate-priced restaurants that are very good.
Right on the corner, at Bonaparte and Place St Sulpice is Pierre Herme'. About six blocks South at 21 rue Bonaparte is Laduree, where you can have all of your meals.
Across the street from the eglise St Sulpice is the Rue des Canettes on this street and the cross streets are a number of low to moderate-priced restaurants that are very good.
Right on the corner, at Bonaparte and Place St Sulpice is Pierre Herme'. About six blocks South at 21 rue Bonaparte is Laduree, where you can have all of your meals.
Aug 18th, 2003 | 09:57 AM
#6
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 7,523
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Hi Pattycakes!
I've been solo to Paris 3-4 times and found it to be a great city to do this in. People seem to eat on their own a lot more there than in N.A. I usually bring a book or journal and have never found myself being rushed to leave. They almost always only bring you the bill if you ask for it. Many a time I've spend in a cafe at lunch, having multiple cafe cremes after lunch, just sitting people watching.
A few recommendations of non-extravagant (but nice!) places I have been to. I've found that the Michelin Red Guide is a good source for ideas.
On Ile St Louis:
Reine Blanche is one of my faves. Good dessert, so you may have to save Berthillon for another night ?! Has a web page
Au gourmet de L'ile was good. If you like atmosphere, they have talbes in tuier vaulted basement.
On Left Bank:
Rotisserie du Beaujolais on street running along Seine south of Notre Dame. Great chicken, popular, you may need a reservation
Chez Rene on St Germain, bear where it ends at the Seine.
Moulin a Vent/Chez Henri on Fosses St Bernard, about a block from the Seine.
Le Petit Zinc on rue St Benoit, not far off of St Germain. Known for its seafood
Le Bonaparte was a nice cafe, kitty corner to St Germain des Pres church and Cafe de Flore. Nice patio, good "croque monsieur" lunch, cafe where intellectuals used to hang (so why am I there ??!!)
If you walk along the Seine on the Left Bank near Notre Dame there a lots of restaurants, some like Montebello with patios, the Montebello one giving views of Notre Dame. Les Bouqinistes is another restaurant along here (north of Notre Dame) that has good reviews. There are also very cheap, not so good restaurants in this/St Michel area that I avoid, they have guys outside trying to convince you to come in, greek/italian food...not for me when in Paris.
I've found that if I wore khakis and a dress shirt I didn't look over/under dressed at these and most places. The PZ was one where "and a tie" might have been in order.
You will find that all (?) restaurants post their menu outside (usually in French) so that you can see what they have and how much. I don't have a lot of experience with this (I am bilingual), but I have seen that restaurants in the more visited areas have english menus also. "Carte" is more the word to use for their "menu" . In restaurants you will find that "menu" often applies to a fixed priced meal, made up of several courses, sometimes including a glass of wine. These are usually good deals. There are often several menus of different prices ranges, so you can splurge if you want to. A "menu" at a certain price may allow you to choose from a limited list of items, or may be a fixed meal. "A la carte" would be selecting from the "carte" all of your meal. Bistrots are more apt to have their menu on a blackboard.
My usual strategy for food is not to eat at the hotel: I, with no real evidence
have found it cheaper to go to a patisserie for a coffee and pain au chocolat/pain au raisin. I have had a "petit dejeuner" (french term for breakfast) at a cafe on Ile Notre Dame, patio, across from Court Buildings, on street crossing seine on bridge north of Notre Dame. Coffee, OJ and toast. Lunch is usually a ham and cheese baguette (they sell them everywhere) and maybe something from a patisserie. You will find that a pattisserie is everywhere, they sell great deserts and often sandwiches. Lenotre is a well know chain that has some nice take out food. I usuallt save my big meal for dinner.
Rambling a bit, I hope this helps! I love eating in Paris!
Enjoy yourself,
Mike
I've been solo to Paris 3-4 times and found it to be a great city to do this in. People seem to eat on their own a lot more there than in N.A. I usually bring a book or journal and have never found myself being rushed to leave. They almost always only bring you the bill if you ask for it. Many a time I've spend in a cafe at lunch, having multiple cafe cremes after lunch, just sitting people watching.
A few recommendations of non-extravagant (but nice!) places I have been to. I've found that the Michelin Red Guide is a good source for ideas.
On Ile St Louis:
Reine Blanche is one of my faves. Good dessert, so you may have to save Berthillon for another night ?! Has a web page
Au gourmet de L'ile was good. If you like atmosphere, they have talbes in tuier vaulted basement.
On Left Bank:
Rotisserie du Beaujolais on street running along Seine south of Notre Dame. Great chicken, popular, you may need a reservation
Chez Rene on St Germain, bear where it ends at the Seine.
Moulin a Vent/Chez Henri on Fosses St Bernard, about a block from the Seine.
Le Petit Zinc on rue St Benoit, not far off of St Germain. Known for its seafood
Le Bonaparte was a nice cafe, kitty corner to St Germain des Pres church and Cafe de Flore. Nice patio, good "croque monsieur" lunch, cafe where intellectuals used to hang (so why am I there ??!!)
If you walk along the Seine on the Left Bank near Notre Dame there a lots of restaurants, some like Montebello with patios, the Montebello one giving views of Notre Dame. Les Bouqinistes is another restaurant along here (north of Notre Dame) that has good reviews. There are also very cheap, not so good restaurants in this/St Michel area that I avoid, they have guys outside trying to convince you to come in, greek/italian food...not for me when in Paris.
I've found that if I wore khakis and a dress shirt I didn't look over/under dressed at these and most places. The PZ was one where "and a tie" might have been in order.
You will find that all (?) restaurants post their menu outside (usually in French) so that you can see what they have and how much. I don't have a lot of experience with this (I am bilingual), but I have seen that restaurants in the more visited areas have english menus also. "Carte" is more the word to use for their "menu" . In restaurants you will find that "menu" often applies to a fixed priced meal, made up of several courses, sometimes including a glass of wine. These are usually good deals. There are often several menus of different prices ranges, so you can splurge if you want to. A "menu" at a certain price may allow you to choose from a limited list of items, or may be a fixed meal. "A la carte" would be selecting from the "carte" all of your meal. Bistrots are more apt to have their menu on a blackboard.
My usual strategy for food is not to eat at the hotel: I, with no real evidence
have found it cheaper to go to a patisserie for a coffee and pain au chocolat/pain au raisin. I have had a "petit dejeuner" (french term for breakfast) at a cafe on Ile Notre Dame, patio, across from Court Buildings, on street crossing seine on bridge north of Notre Dame. Coffee, OJ and toast. Lunch is usually a ham and cheese baguette (they sell them everywhere) and maybe something from a patisserie. You will find that a pattisserie is everywhere, they sell great deserts and often sandwiches. Lenotre is a well know chain that has some nice take out food. I usuallt save my big meal for dinner.Rambling a bit, I hope this helps! I love eating in Paris!
Enjoy yourself,
Mike
Aug 18th, 2003 | 10:51 AM
#7
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 398
Likes: 0
I don't know what you consider "moderately priced," but if you don't balk at spending 40-50 euros on dinner, then I can recommend two restaurants in the 5th. The first is Le Reminet, at 3 rue des Grands Degres, just off the quai that looks directly across the river at Notre Dame. I'd suggest wearing one of the linen dresses if you eat there; casual pants would probably be OK, but I don't think I'd eat there in jeans. You'll need a reservation at Le Reminet. The concierge at your hotel can make the reservation for you, if you don't trust your French enough to do it yourself.
My second recommendation is Mavrommatis, a Greek restaurant at 42 rue Daubenton (the opposite end of the 5th from Le Reminet, not far from rue Mouffetard). They serve sophisticated Greek food that isn't anything like what you'd get at the cheap Greek places in the St. Michel area that Mike mentioned. I agree with him that you should pass up those places, but Mavrommatis is several cuts above them in quality.
I also second Adrienne's recommendation of Polidor. I've had some interesting conversations with my table neighbors while eating there alone. Another restaurant that's similar to Polidor (communal seating, decent but not great food at reasonable prices) is Trumilou, which is on the Right Bank at 84 quai de l'Hotel-de-Ville.
My second recommendation is Mavrommatis, a Greek restaurant at 42 rue Daubenton (the opposite end of the 5th from Le Reminet, not far from rue Mouffetard). They serve sophisticated Greek food that isn't anything like what you'd get at the cheap Greek places in the St. Michel area that Mike mentioned. I agree with him that you should pass up those places, but Mavrommatis is several cuts above them in quality.
I also second Adrienne's recommendation of Polidor. I've had some interesting conversations with my table neighbors while eating there alone. Another restaurant that's similar to Polidor (communal seating, decent but not great food at reasonable prices) is Trumilou, which is on the Right Bank at 84 quai de l'Hotel-de-Ville.
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Aug 18th, 2003 | 11:01 AM
#8
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 98,238
Likes: 12
I stumbled upon this restaurant on a side street, staying in the Latin Quarter a few years ago. It is simply a lovely place, very French, deco-decor, delicious food. We had only a main dish and a couple glasses of wine, the price was fine.
The menu was in French only but two kind ladies with fabulous looking dinners pointed out on the menu what they were having when I looked at their plates and smiled at them.
Bouillon Racine
3, rue Racine
(right off Bd Saint-Michel near Rue des Ecoles intersection).
Tel 01 44 32 15 60
The menu was in French only but two kind ladies with fabulous looking dinners pointed out on the menu what they were having when I looked at their plates and smiled at them.
Bouillon Racine
3, rue Racine
(right off Bd Saint-Michel near Rue des Ecoles intersection).
Tel 01 44 32 15 60
Aug 18th, 2003 | 11:05 AM
#9
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,815
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Hi Pattycakes. Others may differ, but in my opinion, one doesn't <i>need</i> to know any French for being in Paris.
However, that being said, I think it will make your experience a lot more enjoyable if you learn as much as possible, especially "courtesy" phrases and general basics.
However, that being said, I think it will make your experience a lot more enjoyable if you learn as much as possible, especially "courtesy" phrases and general basics.
Aug 18th, 2003 | 12:17 PM
#10
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 7,523
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Hi again,
I agree with Capo. One thing I do now whenever I go to eat at a cafe/bistro is stand by the door until acknowledged by the waiter, who will tell me where to sit. Even if the place looks empty I don't try to pick a spot.
I always greet them with a "Bonjour" or "Bonsoir", followed by "Pour une personne" which lets them know I'm here on my own. Others will remind you that service is included in the pricing, so you when you get your change you don't have to leave anything, unless you were impressed, in which case leaving a few coins is OK.
I also always leave with a "Merci" and a "Bonsoir" or "Aurevoir". In this sense, eating out is a much more formal affair when compared to N.A.
I found that people drink a lot more water with their meals. You will probably be asked if you want water, implying spring water. If you want tap water, just ask for a "carafe", otherwise for spring water you can get a "Badoit" or "Evian" or "Vittel" or others. You may want to say "un demi" otherwise you get a large 1L bottle. They may also ask if you want "avec gaz" or "petillant" ... basically do you want fizzy spring water or flat. You can say "sans gaz" or "non-petillant" if you want no fiz.
Hope this helps
Mike
I agree with Capo. One thing I do now whenever I go to eat at a cafe/bistro is stand by the door until acknowledged by the waiter, who will tell me where to sit. Even if the place looks empty I don't try to pick a spot.
I always greet them with a "Bonjour" or "Bonsoir", followed by "Pour une personne" which lets them know I'm here on my own. Others will remind you that service is included in the pricing, so you when you get your change you don't have to leave anything, unless you were impressed, in which case leaving a few coins is OK.
I also always leave with a "Merci" and a "Bonsoir" or "Aurevoir". In this sense, eating out is a much more formal affair when compared to N.A.
I found that people drink a lot more water with their meals. You will probably be asked if you want water, implying spring water. If you want tap water, just ask for a "carafe", otherwise for spring water you can get a "Badoit" or "Evian" or "Vittel" or others. You may want to say "un demi" otherwise you get a large 1L bottle. They may also ask if you want "avec gaz" or "petillant" ... basically do you want fizzy spring water or flat. You can say "sans gaz" or "non-petillant" if you want no fiz.
Hope this helps
Mike
Aug 18th, 2003 | 02:55 PM
#11
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 5,158
Likes: 0
Hi pattycakes, I agree with mclaurie, there are tons of interesting threads on this subject. So don't forget to also do a search!
in the Latin Quarter, at 13 rue des Ecoles Polytechnique, is a restaurant called Le Fete Gallant. I like the service and the owner very much, and it's very reasonable. Next door is Cybercafe Latino, which is great for the solo traveler after dinner--grab a coffee or a cocktail and check your email!
in the Latin Quarter, at 13 rue des Ecoles Polytechnique, is a restaurant called Le Fete Gallant. I like the service and the owner very much, and it's very reasonable. Next door is Cybercafe Latino, which is great for the solo traveler after dinner--grab a coffee or a cocktail and check your email!
Aug 18th, 2003 | 03:43 PM
#12
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 228
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I spent a few nights solo in Paris last April. I had dinner one night at Reine Blance on Ile St Louis. Had a wonderful dinner and the staff was delightful. They speak some English. I had the front desk at my hotel make reservations for me. I think I sent an email to the hotel about a week before arrival and asked them to make reservations.
Have a great time in Paris on you own. I loved doing it!
Have a great time in Paris on you own. I loved doing it!
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