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Slightly reworked itinerary - southern Germany and Czech Republic

Slightly reworked itinerary - southern Germany and Czech Republic

Dec 21st, 2010, 12:17 PM
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Slightly reworked itinerary - southern Germany and Czech Republic

I have slightly reworked the itinerary for my trip this summer and would like to know what you guys think.

A quick recap - this trip is for my husband's 40th birthday, which he has requested to spend in a beer garden in Munich. We are building a beer-themed trip around that request. We have 16 days including travel days, flying round trip SFO-FRA using miles. We will be taking trains and buses this trip, no rental car.

This will be our 2nd trip to Germany (not counting a few hours in Munich last month on a layover). On the previous trip we visited Munich, Freising, Nuremburg, Ansbach, Rothenburg obT, Dinklesbuhl, Fuessen, Hohenschwangau, Oberamergau,and Reutte and the Plansee in Austria. My husband was also stationed in Germany 20 years ago when he was in the army.

Here is the plan:

Days 1-2: Fly SFO-FRA (arrive 9:45am), train to Bamberg
Days 3-4: Bamberg ( incl. 1 day trip TBD - thinking Wurzburg, but looking for other suggestions)
Days 5-8: Munich (incl. 1 day trip TBD - thinking about Herrenchiemsee, Andechs Monestary, or Starnbergersee - looking for other recommendations too)
Day 9: Regensburg
Day 10-14: Prague (incl. 1 or 2 day trips TBD - suggestions?)
Day 15: Nuremburg
Day 16: Fly home - 2pm flight

With this itinerary, I think we will be able to see a fair amount, but not be too rushed. We've only got a couple 1-night stays, everywhere else we will stay at least 3 nights. The night in Nuremburg at the end of the trip is because it is a convinient stop between Prague and Frankfurt with an easy connection to Frankfurt the next day for our flight. We've both been there before, but we like the town.
november_moon is offline  
Dec 21st, 2010, 12:25 PM
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Cesky Krumlov (better as an overnight though)
joannyc is offline  
Dec 21st, 2010, 12:43 PM
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Herrenchiemsee would be at the top of my Munich excursions - the Bavarian Versailles - a copy nearly of the French one, by Mad Ludwig - lovingly set on an island in the idyllic placid Chiemsee - take the train or drive to Prien, either stroll the short distance to the boat dock or, if running, hop the miniature steam train that goes there. Like any Mad Ludwig castle a sweet surprise at every turn.

But Salzburg, Austria is only 1.5 hrs by train - to me one of Europe's visual and cultural feasts - small and compact enough for a day trip.

Or Berchetsgaden (sp?) - a nice Alpine resort?

You did not mention Dachau but assume you do not want to visit that type place or would have.
PalenQ is offline  
Dec 21st, 2010, 01:01 PM
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If this was my trip, I would go to 1. Munich first. Then 2. Regensburg 3. Prague 4. Nuremburg/Bamberg and fly home
iris1745 is online now  
Dec 21st, 2010, 01:43 PM
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I agree with iris, and Palen Q. with regards to day trips from Munich.
treplow is offline  
Dec 21st, 2010, 02:44 PM
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Thanks for the suggestions.

I was thinking about Kesky Krumlov as a day trip from Prague. I hadn't thought about Terezin through. I will definitely research that. We generally prefer to base ourselves someplace and day trip rather than change hotels - just makes for a more relaxing trip for us and allows for more flexibility.

Glad to get a glowing recommendation for Herrencheimsee - we've been to the Ludwig castles in Hohenschwangau and I am interested in seeing the others. We have a thing for Ludwig in our family

Salzburg is an interesting idea. It is definitely on my list of places to visit - just a question of whether we should go on this trip or save it for a future trip to Austria. We really liked Austria from what we saw on our last trip and would love to go back. Berchetsgaden is another interesting idea. Lots to consider.

I agree that iris' order of cities/towns makes more sense, but this way puts on in Munich ON my husband's birthday, which falls on Day 8 - that was a specific request of his. He doesn't make many specific requests regarding trip planning, so when he does, I try to incorporate it if possible.
november_moon is offline  
Dec 22nd, 2010, 06:38 AM
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I would not miss Bamberg. Their beer scene is great. I just came back a week ago. Schlenkerla is known for its smoked beer. I didn't expect to like it but did - it is dark and slightly smoky. I asked what the food specialty was and had a large roasted onion stuffed with a beef-pork mix, served with a slice of smoked bacon on top and a side of mashed potatoes and gravy. Heavenly!
Then there is Klosterbrau, the oldest brewery. It was hard for me to find but still close to the center. (Probably easier in the daylight.) They are known for their brown beer - also good! The food was good. It was small but in the summer there is a large beer garden.
I also highly recommend staying in Prien (the harbor at Stock) to visit Herreninsel and Fraueninsel. Go on a beautiful day - it is a wonderful day trip and you can walk to the ferry from Stock.
Sorry if this is a little vague. I'm still suffering from jetlag and all around me are sleeping. Have a great trip! CJ
CarolJean is offline  
Dec 22nd, 2010, 10:30 AM
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Well since this is, as you say, a beer themed trip I have the following suggestions:

1. I'm glad your visiting Bamberg first. This is an amazing city both for it's scenery (very old architecture) and for it's beer. Bamberg and the sorrounding region of Upper Franconia is a beer paradise. A stunning number of small privately owned breweries and beer gardens. You really could use more time here but your other stuff looks good too. If anything I'd shave a day off Munich and add a day to Bamberg. But even if you don't change your itinerary at all you're going to all the right places. Many tourists assume that Munich is the beer center of Germany. It isn't. Bamberg and Franconia surpasses it by far. Although Munich is certainly respectable in that regard.

2. Rather than making a day trip while in Bamberg to a place like Wurzburg I'd suggest that there is so much to do in and around Bamberg that you'd be better off just using the two days you have there to take it all in. In Bamberg there are three really nice bier kellers (i.e. beer gardens) all on the same street. The street is called Stephensburg and off of it is the Spezial Keller that serves beer from Brauerei Spezial of Bamberg and has a stunning view overlooking the city. Further up the hill is the Wilde Rose Keller that has beer from Mahrs and Schlenkerla of Bamberg and a really nice beer garden that has a live brass band playing on Thursdays. Mahrs Keller is on the other side of the street and is also very nice. You'll be hard pressed to find beer gardens as nice as these in Munich or anywhere else in the world for that matter. Of course Bamberg also has all the other brewpubs to visit spread out across the city but in walking distance of each other.

3. If you've got time and feel a bit adventurous you could venture out of Bamberg one day into one of the nearby villages and spend time in one of the lovely bier kellers. While the bier kellers of Bamberg are fantastic the ones outside the city in some of the smaller villages are even better. The Griess Keller of Geisfeld, Sauer Felsenkeller of Rossdorf Am Forst, Roppelts Keller of Stiebarlimbach, and of course the trio of kellers side by side known as the Kreuzberg Kellers to name a few. You simply cannot have a more relaxing and pleasant day than sitting at one of these kellers and enjoying their very unique unfiltered lagers (called kellerbiers) and enjoying the food and the views.

4. But now onto Munich. First of all you mentioned a possible day trip from Munich out to Andechs monastary. I highly recommend that. It is one of the nicest beer halls and terraced beer gardens I have ever visited and great views all around. Oh the beer is damn good as well. My number 1 recommendation for a beer garden in Munich is the Hirschgarten. You'll be able to take the subway, tram, or cab there regardless of where you are staying. It is a spectacular beer garden and serves what is IMO Munich's best beer (Augustiner). Also recommend the Augustiner Keller. Across the street from the Hofbrauhaus is a Ayinger pub/restaurant that if you catch it at the right time will have an Ayinger lager poured out of the oak barrel. If you see a big barrel behind the bar ask for it.

Here are some good links for you to help with your research.

Simply the best guide to Bamberg and Franconian beer on the internet:

Another great sight about Oberfranken (Upper Franconia)

Nice online guide to Munich's beer gardens. I highly recommend you get the book to bring with you. It is invaluable in helping you find these places while there:

Spezial Keller of Bamberg:

Wilde Rose Keller of Bamberg:

Mahr's Keller of Bamberg:

Some of the countryside kellers of Oberfranken:

Oh I just thought of something else. It depends what time in the Summer you are there. But if you happen to beer there at the end of July early August you could attend the Annafest in Forcheim. Forcheim is about 20 minutes by train south of Bamberg and every year they hold Annafest at their Kellerwald (keller forest). There are 24 bier kellers in operation during Annafest and some of the best festbier you'll ever have. Many good live bands as well:

markan is offline  
Dec 23rd, 2010, 10:34 AM
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Ahhhhhh - I wish I could get on a plane right now and go...

The Rauchbier is what originally attracted us to Bamberg - when we were in Nuremburg before, we tried Schlenkerla at a restaurant and it was love at first sip. We vowed to visit Bamberg on our next trip to Germany. And then when we researched the town, we learned that a really wonderful town accompanies the wonderful beer.

I had heard that Bamberg can be seen in a day or so, but the descriptions of the lovely beer gardens makes me think that it may need more time. We do love to hang out in beer gardens, sipping beer, and just enjoying the atmosphere. And I like the idea of going to a smaller town and seeing something out-of-the-way. My husband and I both speak enough German to get by - get directions, order food, buy stuff - so we are perfectly fine off the tourist track.

For Munich, when we were there before, we tried the Andechs beer at a restaurant in the Altstadt called Andecher am Dom - it was our favorite Munich beer. And when I was in Munich on a short layover last month, that was were I went for lunch We learned later that the monastery where it is brewed isn't far away and were disappointed that we missed it - turns out we actually drove within 10 or so km on that trip. So that is why we were thinking of it for this trip.

We have visited the Hirschgarten on our previous trip and loved it, so markum - because you like it too, I think your recommendations are probably spot on for our style. The Hirschgarten was actually my first Germany experience and that is when I decided that I loved Germany and would return again and again We stayed in a hotel near there, so we went there on our arrival day. It is a magical place full shady trees, happy people, and beer. We visited many times over the next few days.

Thank-you Carol and markan for the terrific recommendations.
november_moon is offline  
Dec 27th, 2010, 09:27 AM
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had heard that Bamberg can be seen in a day or so, but the descriptions of the lovely beer gardens makes me think that it may need more time. We do love to hang out in beer gardens, sipping beer, and just enjoying the atmosphere.>

Well Bamberg yes is compact and a day is more than enough for many - though it could make a sweet base

But every Bavarian and German town it seems overflows with beer gardens and beer houses like Munich's famed Hofbrauhaus - but in Munich if you like beer gardens be sure to check out the vast one swirling around the Chinese Pagoda in the vast park whose name I cannot think of right now - but the huge huge park on the east side of the town center - anyway a huge outdoor beer garden very popular with locals and offering up all that traditional German beer garden foods.

But when traipsing thru the park do not be bashful as on nice days there are literally zillions of locals in the buff - totally nude sun bathing, even right by footpaths!
PalenQ is offline  
Dec 27th, 2010, 10:59 AM
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Englischer Garten is what is escaping you PalenQ
Aramis is offline  
Dec 27th, 2010, 03:50 PM
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Have you read about the Weltenberger Kloster outside of Regensberg? http://www.en.weltenburger.de/welten...htm?PHPSESSID= We're planning a summer 2011 trip that also has several beer-themed destinations! I haven't been to Weltenberger but hope to approach the Kloster by boat on the Danube. Looks gorgeous - and tasty! I'm considering a pension that's a 15 minute walk from the Kloster... This is a great thread and I'm geting some good ideas. Thanks!
AndiM is offline  
Jan 3rd, 2011, 11:07 AM
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november_moon, I look forward to hearing about your trip when your back and hope you and your husband have a great time. I also be heading over in the Summer (dates still yet to be determined) but at least one week in and around Bamberg is the priority for me.
markan is offline  
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