Hi all,

Anyone have an recommendations for a quiet, not super touristy trip to Scotland? I thought Edinburgh but I kind of want the quiet countryside escape but still close enough to do a day tour? Maybe a Bed and Breakfast? Must have a pub with food within walking distance since I won't be getting a car. Also, what is the best time to travel to Scotland? I don't need perfect weather but I'd like to not have to wear full winter gear. Safety is a must too since I am a single woman traveling alone. If anyone can give me a start I can check into things from there.
Thanks in advance!

Hard to point you in a particular direction - I can think of hundreds of places that are safe (the entire country), and have B&Bs with pubs nearby.

You say you won't have a car . . . is that because you think driving will be too difficult, or is because you can't drive? The problem with relying strictly on trains is . . . trains don't serve that many small villages. Though one can have a decent trip w/o driving, getting off the beaten path sort of needs a car.

But -- maybe consider something like 3-ish days in Edinburgh and then one of Rabbies 3 to 5 days tours. Rabbies would get you out into the really rural areas and are highly recommended. They aren't those dreadful large coach tours - they are small groups - 16 maximum but often fewer, in smal passenger vans https://www.rabbies.com/en/scotland-...from-edinburgh

You can never know about the weather -- I've had to wear winter fleece and rain gear in July and shirt sleeves in April. In general though the 'best' weather will be from mid may through September. You will want to avoid August (UNLESS the festivals and Tattoo are the reason you are visiting). Edinburgh is VERY crowded, VERY expensive and a hassle the entire month of August. June or early Sept would be my first choices.

I wouldn’t worry about safety in Scotland, assuming you’re a sensible person and don’t plan on testing the limits.

My first thought was, rather than going north from Edinburgh, think about going east to Argyll & Bute. I visited friends on the water called the Kyles of Bute and though had a car while I was with them I very much enjoyed the time prior getting there on my own. It’s quick & easy to get from Edinburgh to Glasgow. From Glasgow I took the train east to Gourock where the station is a short walk to the ferry across to the attractive small town of Dunoon. The area is not overrun with tourists by any means, there are local buses and more ferries to other cozy places.

If you’re a fan of British movies, as I am, you may have seen ‘I Know Where I’m Going’, starring Wendy Hiller (1945) which was shot in this part of the country. My friends were sailors and were well acquainted with the setting of a dramatic scene in the movie of the Corryvreckan whirlpool produced by the strong tides. It’s an altogether peaceful and stunning part of Scotland that few people, as far as I could tell, visit and perfectly doable using public transport with a bit of research.

Hello janisj,

Thank you for your reply and advice! I am no getting a car for two reasons - I'm directionally challenged and am scared it will be too difficult and I don't want to spend the money on the rental. I was hoping to find a cute town to relax in but maybe take a few day bus tours? Thank you for the link to Rabbies by the way. I will definitely utilize that!

Well, first, welcome to Fodor's!

I think we need a bit more information from you. First, how much time do you have available? Second, what are your interests, and, basically, why did you pick Scotland? And third, what sort of budget level do you need? You don't have to be specific, but knowing if you're looking for something super cheap, or don't mind paying for high quality lodgings, would help a lot.

Absent that information, it's difficult to be specific in recommendations, but let me take a couple of shots in the dark.

I understand the desire to stay someplace in the countryside, but you need to be aware that Scotland's rail network isn't all that large, and the trains tend to go to bigger towns rather than rural villages, making the so-called "last mile" (the distance from the station to the village, for example) a complicating factor. Buses go pretty much everywhere, but in rural areas they can be infrequent and travel times can be long.

A further factor is that Scotland is so diverse, with vastly different environments within fairly short distances of one another, that without a car you're probably going to have to pick one area to the exclusion of others. Now that's not a terrible thing, but you'd need to know what you're getting into. A Highland village might sound terrific, but what if you book three or four nights there and the weather is lousy the whole time? Are you ready for that? I'm not saying don't do it, but just don't be caught flat-footed if things are sub-par.

Let me talk about an alternative plan, just as a thought experiment - country in the city.

Over the centuries as Edinburgh grew, it engulfed several rural villages in the course of its expansion. A couple of these historic villages are now part of the city, but they retain a surprising amount of their original character. Two examples come to mind. First, the village of Cramond (settled since Roman times) on the northwest periphery of the city, is an extremely picturesque little hamlet set on the banks of the Firth of Forth at the mouth of the River Almond. There are some shops, cafes and an historic pub, and fabulous walks along the water, including a walk out to an island (be back before the tide comes in or you're stuck for hours.) But Cramond also has bus service and Ubers available to take you anywhere in the city for a few pounds. Here's an Airbnb right next to the Almond River in Cramond - https://www.airbnb.com/rooms/19613760 .

Another of these villages is Duddingston. This is much closer to central Edinburgh, just basically on the opposite side of Holyrood Park from the Palace of Holyroodhouse and the Scottish Parliament, but it can feel like a million miles. At the other end of the accommodation spectrum from an Airbnb is the Prestonfield House hotel - https://www.prestonfield.com/ . This is a luxury hotel, one of the best in town, located on extensive grounds (complete with peacocks and Highland cattle.) You can walk to historic Duddingston Kirk or to Duddingston Loch (lots of birds around) or to the Sheep Heid pub, ostensibly Edinburgh's oldest (and occasionally hosting Mrs. Q.) And again, you're a short bus ride (or walk through Holyrood Park) or an even quicker Uber, from all the city highlights.

So if you wanted a location that gave access to the city, or to Rabbies tours (which I also recommend) then one of these places (or others, depending on your criteria) might be worth thinking about.

There are, of course, other places in the more rural parts of the country, that might suit. If you want a quintessential Highland location accessible by rail, look at the village of Glenfinnan, along the "Road to the Isles" and reached by rail on the beautiful West Highland railway line. Glenfinnan is the site of the beginning of the 1745 Jacobite rising, and is also famous for its railway viaduct, featured in Harry Potter movies. You'd reach Glenfinnan via the Rannoch Moor, one of the most scenic (and desolate-looking) areas of the Highlands. You could walk around Glenfinnan - lots of walks - in the hills, next to Loch Shiel - and still be able to return to Edinburgh or Glasgow on the train. There are similar settings in other parts of the country accessible by rail, but it will help knowing what your priorities might be, as well as timing.

Again, welcome!

MmePerdu: I think you mean "going WEST " from Edinburgh to Argll and Bute, not east, or has our world been turned upside down, backward, or something else, more frightening? Scary, but I sometimes feel that way when traveling!!
I love that movie, "I know where I'm going” and was tickled at a youthful Wendy Hiller. I had only seen her in movies, at an older age, previously, and had a bit of a surprise at how attractive she was in her youth.
When I visited Duart Castle, on the Isle of Mull, where some of the movie was filmed, I ask one of the tour guides if it was, indeed, a filming site. She became very animated, and pleased, with the question. And then took me on a private tour of other rooms, including a stone staircase, which was delightful.
I was also very lucky to have been able to tour Torosay Castle, with the Laird, Christopher Guthrie-James. It has since been sold (2012) and is no longer open for public tours, although the lovely gardens are still open, I believe, the first Sunday in the month from April to October. Definitely worth a trip to Mull, and rabies does include it on some of their tours, I believe.

Gardyloo: as always, your posts are wonderful. Thanks for the tip about the air B&B at Cramond. One of my favorite places, and favorite walks along the Almond River. Your suggestions for quiet locations were superb.

janisj: great advice, as usual, including the avoidance of August, with your caveat about the festival, if that is what the poster wanted which I doubt, and for your weather advise. Been there in June, July, very early August and October/November. The first three were fine, even with a lot of rain. October and November wee Not SO FINE!!!

kelvillar: I have been a single traveler for years and find it is an excellent way to travel. Be open to meeting people, especially in Scotland and Ireland, and you will never feel alone.

kelvillar: P.S. Also, you might want to consider walking at least a portion of the Water of Leith walk. (Bells Brae, Dean’s village). It is in the very heart of Edinburgh, but honestly, you will feel as though you are out in the country.
Then pop into the small, but comfortable, Scottish National Gallery of Modern Art, nearby.
Small, nice caf� in the basement for a nice escape from the possible (probable?) rain and a cuppa.

Ayemimi, yes west, of course. Thanks for the correction. My sense of direction is excellent, it’s the words that trip me up. I knew perfectly well which way it was (1st part, Edinburgh to Glasgow the giveaway). When I was a kid I often had to pause to figure out whether it was “right” or “left”, looking at my hands, the word, not which way. And I wondered if the movie would have meaning for anyone, very good!

I went to Scotland, alone in 2014. I would have been 72 . No problems, took a one day tour from Edinburgh and loved it. It was early April and it was the only tour offered. If you fine a 3 or 4 day tour, it would be great. I also bought the rail pass.

Thank you all for your great advice!

Gardyloo - More details... I'm thinking a week to a week and a half. Let's just say 10 days. I'm thinking anytime after April. I picked Scotland because I went to Ireland a few years back and LOVED the history there. I want to see castles and beautiful landscapes. But mostly I want to just get away to somewhere beautiful where I can walk around to some local places to shop and eat, find a quiet place to read for hours but also have the option of jumping on a bus for a day tour to see some of the history of Scotland. The villages in the city sound right up my alley. I'm fine with walking everywhere (just got back from Italy where I walked ALL THE TIME) or taking an uber/taxi. I like the feel of a smaller bed and breakfast rather than a large hotel but I'll do either.

The villages of Edinburgh are lovely -- but they are not villages as you describe what you want. You say you want countryside - they aren't. They are quiet neighborhoods in a big bustling city. A quiet country town or village won't have rail service, nor much bus service - and certainly won't have tours originating there. What you want -- quiet/scenic/countryside village with transport and tours just doesn't exist.

So -- a few days in Edinburgh - and I'd actually stay pretty central, closer to the sites to maximize your short time and take a 4 or 5 day Rabbies tours. Walking is a given - how are you on hills? Edinburgh is basically one big hill. Dean Village would be great -- Cramond or Duddingston would be a little far (I've stayed in Cramond several times and like the area but for a short/first visit I'd want to be closer in).