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Siena Palio

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Old Apr 16th, 2004 | 04:23 PM
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Siena Palio

During part of our 3 week trip to Italy this summer, my family will be staying in a villa in Tuscany (between Arezzo & Cortona) from June 26 - July 3. Since the Palio takes place during this time, I would love to witness this magical event! Since our group at the villa consists of 14 individuals (all ages from 2 to 50 from 4 different countries) I'm not sure who may want to drive to Siena but I would love to be prepared. I think the actual race would be crazy but does anyone know about the trials? How crazy do they get? I believe they should happen on June 29, 30 & July 1. How early should we arrive and where is the best viewing? We would drive so where could we park? Any information would be great!! Thanks.
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Old Apr 16th, 2004 | 05:21 PM
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There is parking at all of the ports (gates) to the old city. Some of the best views are from the upper street level restaurants and shops that look down from above. Good luck. It is something much loved by the Siennese and difficult to get a good view though friends of mine were once invited to join some people who were going to a party at one of the flats overlooking the race. Let us know if you make it!
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Old Apr 16th, 2004 | 05:30 PM
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I've been twice to the Palio and spent a few days at the trial races, too. You do need to get there early, even for the trial races. Parking? Well, we just went round and round until we found a space, coming in from near Florence. The trials don't get all that crazy, although there are a zillion people there, but still, it's not nearly as insane as the day of the actual race. I'd get there by 9-10 a.m. to get decent seats and plan to sit there for awhile - bring plenty of water and things to munch on; it can be kind of disorganized during the trials.
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Old Apr 16th, 2004 | 07:21 PM
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We went to all the trials and to the race. We booked a window above the start of the race. It was in an attorney's home. It was a not to be missed event. Not only the trials and race but the pagentry within the city. Parades, blessings of the horses withiin the churches. "Go forth and become a Winner". It is very hot and if you are squished in the center plaza, you need to be prepared with lots of water and shade. AND where to meet afterwards. I would park outside of the city and take a taxi. Have a great time
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Old Apr 16th, 2004 | 09:31 PM
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Having seen it I can tell you there will be pushing and shoving (you know how Europeans are about "waiting in line" sometimes, for a decent view (if you can get a guaranteed one in advance, do so). IMO the above-mentioned "pageantry" is much more impressive than the so-called "race" itself which lasts about 2 minutes and looks more like a bunch of goat ropers on horses than, say, the Kentucky Derby if that's what you are expecting.
The real pageant is in the cathedral before the race when all the various groups in their costumes congregate for the blessing. The race itself...kinda anti-climactic in my opinion...but enjoy it anyway.
 
Old Apr 16th, 2004 | 10:32 PM
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Try to at least attend a trial as you will get a bit of an idea as to what the race is all about. The trials are much less crowded than the actual race and you don't need a seat reservation for them. Check the schedule of the trials as there are sometimes morning and evening events. In the days leading up to the Palio there are often parades through the old town or you can see the drummers and flag throwers practicing. Also the streets are decorated with lights and banners. I believe there is a movie in English that plays in town that explains a bit about the race. There are several large parking lots near the old town where parking should be available if you arrive a bit early on trial dates. I'm not sure about parking on the actual race date - it would probably be quite difficult. Also race day tickets are very expensive and hard to come by although standing in the center is free. Standing however is a lengthy, crowded affair and, unless you are fairly tall, it is difficult to see well.
I hope you go - it will be hot and a bit crazy but we loved it.
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Old Apr 16th, 2004 | 11:53 PM
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Parking for trials should be easy enough. If you do not want to get tickets then I highly recommend coming into town for the morning trial on the 2nd (at around 9 in the morning). There are usually very few people as they are all sleeping in after the big rehearsal dinners the night before. Then stay in the city but head to the Duomo at around 3 pm. to watch the parade (it starts from here then moves to the piazza). Then head to a bar or wherever you see a TV on and watch the race. Then after the race head to the Church of Provenzano to watch as the winners bring in the jockey and the Palio (the banner itself) and sing the Te Deum. Then hang around the city and watch the winners parading around all night. IMO missing the actual race will not deter from the event but missing the festivities surrounding it will.

You can read all about the Palio in an article I wrote here http://www.slowtrav.com/italy/notes/...tina_palio.htm

Cristina
Viva La Selva
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