Sicily thoughts... most over/underrated sights
May 1st, 2003, 06:01 AM
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Sicily thoughts... most over/underrated sights
Message: I just returned from a 15 day jog across Sicily. I thought I'd post my thoughts, and put them down in a different format than the typical trip-report...
Most overrated places in Sicily:
1. Villa Romana at Piazza Armerina
2. Valley of the temples, Agrigento
3. Greek theatre, Siricusa
4. Noto
Most underrated places:
5. Ragusa
6. Selinunte
7. Trapani
8. Favignana (Isole Egadi)
Explanations (overrated sites):
1. I enjoy mosaics (have seen them in Venice, Ravenna, and Palermo). The Roman villa at Pzza Armerina does have some interesting ones, I admit this. A couple make you stop and stare because of their cool-factor. However, what was a HUGE dissapointment, was how the villa itself was presented. Just being in an excavated villa would be a cool thing... however it was hard to allow the historical importance to sink in when the entire site was covered by PLEXIGLASS supported by rusting IRON beams. It looked like a giant greenhouse.. and I'd imagine it would feel like one during the summertime. Truly a sad site to see at what could have been a truly remarkable site..instead it's only remarkable for how ugly it is.
2. I saw the temples at Agrigento on the same day as I had seen Selinunte. The difference from the latter to the former was amazing. Agrigento had huge tourist hordes, the temples were roped off, and the site only had 2 standing temples (you'd think there would be more). Selinunte, on the other hand, had relatively few tourists, open temples that you could sit in and let the sight sink into you, and actually had MORE archeological goodies than the Valley of the Temples has. Given Selinunte only has 1 fully standing temple to Agrigento's 2, that one temple is far more spectacular to what you find in Agrigento anyway. Selinunte also has the remains of 2 other temples, plus an acropolis of the ancient city you can visit.
3. The theatre in Siricusa wouldn't have been such a dissapointment if there weren't wooden boards covering up half of the ancient rock seats. Apparently the much lauded summer theatre productions come at a price: they put wood over the old stones, to make "proper" benches for the audience to sit on. While that may be well and good for the theatre-goer (altho I'd personally prefer to sit on the rock... what's the point of going for the antiquity if you're going to sit on modernity?) it truly sucks for the tourist. Not to mention the noise from the construction as they build the stage (again, out of wood). And of course, on top of this all, were the 23908423 tour groups. Luckily, the park IS worth the trip, if only for the Ear of Dionysius. The theatre, however, is not... especially when you compare it to the theatres in Segesta and Taormina.
4. Noto, the town south of Siricusa that is much vaunted for it's beauty and Baroque is unfortunately under rather heavy reconstruction. The central piazza is disrupted entirely by a huge construction scene, as the duomo is being fixed after its dome collapsed in the late 90's... estimated time of reopening, 2006. Till then, I would say that visiting the city really isn't worth it, as apart from the duomo's piazza there is little to see really.
Explanations (underrated sites):
5. Noto's lack of appeal comes especially into consideration if you see Ragusa in the same day. Ragusa was probably the biggest surprise of any place in Sicily for me. The first view of how the town is built up what seems to be practically vertical walls is stunning. Then climbing up through the town's twisty stairways and alleys and through arches and narrow passageways... you feel transported clear out of the 21st century for sure. Not to mention the Baroque churches are really, really stunning (the main one easily rivals that of Siricusa).
6. The reason for Selinunte's inclusion on the underrated list can be seen from the same entry on why I found Agrigento so dissapointing. In brief, Selinunte is undertouristed for the amazing amount of archeological material you can see, not to mention the spectacular location of the site (views of the blue blue Mediterranean and of fields covered in poppies and marigolds).
7. Trapani could be considered a regular port city.. sure. However, when comparing it to another port city, Palermo, Trapani comes off as a MUCH cleaner and more welcoming city. Plus it is in an amazing location, making daytrips to Erice, the Isole Egadi, Segesta, Selinunte, Eraclea Minoa, and even Agrigento possible. Then, after you return to Trapani from your daytrip, you can try their truly excellent restaurants.. from La Cantina Siciliana for cous-cous con pesce, to Calvino's for the most amazing pizza that I have found in Italy, to Colicchia for truly awesome canolis. Without a doubt, the best food I ate in Sicily was in Trapani.
8. Finally, Favignana and the Egadi Islands. They seem to be overshadowed by the Aeolians to the north... which is good for the smart tourist, since Favignana (the largest of the Egadi's) is an amazing spot. You could easily spend two days, even three there, exploring the amazing rock coves, and climbing up to the top of the mountain to see the views and the town that rests on top. Plus the town has a real charm about it (altho this might have come from me visiting it on Easter sunday, everyone was milling about on the streets and enjoying the sunlight).
Well that's about it, I hope this info helps. I also visited Palermo, Monreale, Erice, Segesta, Mazara del Vallo, Enna, Etna, and Taormina... I found them all very cool destinations and excellent choices for anyone planning a trip. If interested in info on these places feel free to ask. I spent 2 nights in Palermo, 3 in Trapani, 2 in Mazara, 1 in Piazza, 2 in Siricusa, 1 near Etna, and 3 in Taormina.
Most overrated places in Sicily:
1. Villa Romana at Piazza Armerina
2. Valley of the temples, Agrigento
3. Greek theatre, Siricusa
4. Noto
Most underrated places:
5. Ragusa
6. Selinunte
7. Trapani
8. Favignana (Isole Egadi)
Explanations (overrated sites):
1. I enjoy mosaics (have seen them in Venice, Ravenna, and Palermo). The Roman villa at Pzza Armerina does have some interesting ones, I admit this. A couple make you stop and stare because of their cool-factor. However, what was a HUGE dissapointment, was how the villa itself was presented. Just being in an excavated villa would be a cool thing... however it was hard to allow the historical importance to sink in when the entire site was covered by PLEXIGLASS supported by rusting IRON beams. It looked like a giant greenhouse.. and I'd imagine it would feel like one during the summertime. Truly a sad site to see at what could have been a truly remarkable site..instead it's only remarkable for how ugly it is.
2. I saw the temples at Agrigento on the same day as I had seen Selinunte. The difference from the latter to the former was amazing. Agrigento had huge tourist hordes, the temples were roped off, and the site only had 2 standing temples (you'd think there would be more). Selinunte, on the other hand, had relatively few tourists, open temples that you could sit in and let the sight sink into you, and actually had MORE archeological goodies than the Valley of the Temples has. Given Selinunte only has 1 fully standing temple to Agrigento's 2, that one temple is far more spectacular to what you find in Agrigento anyway. Selinunte also has the remains of 2 other temples, plus an acropolis of the ancient city you can visit.
3. The theatre in Siricusa wouldn't have been such a dissapointment if there weren't wooden boards covering up half of the ancient rock seats. Apparently the much lauded summer theatre productions come at a price: they put wood over the old stones, to make "proper" benches for the audience to sit on. While that may be well and good for the theatre-goer (altho I'd personally prefer to sit on the rock... what's the point of going for the antiquity if you're going to sit on modernity?) it truly sucks for the tourist. Not to mention the noise from the construction as they build the stage (again, out of wood). And of course, on top of this all, were the 23908423 tour groups. Luckily, the park IS worth the trip, if only for the Ear of Dionysius. The theatre, however, is not... especially when you compare it to the theatres in Segesta and Taormina.
4. Noto, the town south of Siricusa that is much vaunted for it's beauty and Baroque is unfortunately under rather heavy reconstruction. The central piazza is disrupted entirely by a huge construction scene, as the duomo is being fixed after its dome collapsed in the late 90's... estimated time of reopening, 2006. Till then, I would say that visiting the city really isn't worth it, as apart from the duomo's piazza there is little to see really.
Explanations (underrated sites):
5. Noto's lack of appeal comes especially into consideration if you see Ragusa in the same day. Ragusa was probably the biggest surprise of any place in Sicily for me. The first view of how the town is built up what seems to be practically vertical walls is stunning. Then climbing up through the town's twisty stairways and alleys and through arches and narrow passageways... you feel transported clear out of the 21st century for sure. Not to mention the Baroque churches are really, really stunning (the main one easily rivals that of Siricusa).
6. The reason for Selinunte's inclusion on the underrated list can be seen from the same entry on why I found Agrigento so dissapointing. In brief, Selinunte is undertouristed for the amazing amount of archeological material you can see, not to mention the spectacular location of the site (views of the blue blue Mediterranean and of fields covered in poppies and marigolds).
7. Trapani could be considered a regular port city.. sure. However, when comparing it to another port city, Palermo, Trapani comes off as a MUCH cleaner and more welcoming city. Plus it is in an amazing location, making daytrips to Erice, the Isole Egadi, Segesta, Selinunte, Eraclea Minoa, and even Agrigento possible. Then, after you return to Trapani from your daytrip, you can try their truly excellent restaurants.. from La Cantina Siciliana for cous-cous con pesce, to Calvino's for the most amazing pizza that I have found in Italy, to Colicchia for truly awesome canolis. Without a doubt, the best food I ate in Sicily was in Trapani.
8. Finally, Favignana and the Egadi Islands. They seem to be overshadowed by the Aeolians to the north... which is good for the smart tourist, since Favignana (the largest of the Egadi's) is an amazing spot. You could easily spend two days, even three there, exploring the amazing rock coves, and climbing up to the top of the mountain to see the views and the town that rests on top. Plus the town has a real charm about it (altho this might have come from me visiting it on Easter sunday, everyone was milling about on the streets and enjoying the sunlight).
Well that's about it, I hope this info helps. I also visited Palermo, Monreale, Erice, Segesta, Mazara del Vallo, Enna, Etna, and Taormina... I found them all very cool destinations and excellent choices for anyone planning a trip. If interested in info on these places feel free to ask. I spent 2 nights in Palermo, 3 in Trapani, 2 in Mazara, 1 in Piazza, 2 in Siricusa, 1 near Etna, and 3 in Taormina.
May 1st, 2003, 06:23 AM
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Great summary of trip. I'm staying for 3nights/3.5 days in Taormina. 1.5 days to explore/relax in town and two days for day-trips. Which trips would you recommend and why: Etna?Syracusa? Savoca? one of the Aeolian Islands? Anything in/near Taormina that you would recommend or not? appreciate your insight.
May 1st, 2003, 07:11 AM
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Thanks RAR! Sicily is an area that we definitely need more trip reports on this site about.
I totally agree with you about Selinunte, I was there about a month ago and there was just me, my boyfriend & 2 dogs- a few people here and there but not many. I definitely enjoyed it more then Agrigento, the big city behind the Valley of the Temples affects it's allure in my opinion. Not to mention the crowds.
Cotes- I enjoyed a morning where we took a bus up to Castelmola (A hill town near Taormina). The views were beautiful, there are ruins of a castle (not much to it though), and they sell almond wine which I really liked. There were some restaurants up there that had great views and looked good, if we had not been up there on a Sunday (the bus schedule was very spotty) we would have eaten lunch up there.
I loved Ortygia, if you could make that a day trip I really recommend it.
I totally agree with you about Selinunte, I was there about a month ago and there was just me, my boyfriend & 2 dogs- a few people here and there but not many. I definitely enjoyed it more then Agrigento, the big city behind the Valley of the Temples affects it's allure in my opinion. Not to mention the crowds.
Cotes- I enjoyed a morning where we took a bus up to Castelmola (A hill town near Taormina). The views were beautiful, there are ruins of a castle (not much to it though), and they sell almond wine which I really liked. There were some restaurants up there that had great views and looked good, if we had not been up there on a Sunday (the bus schedule was very spotty) we would have eaten lunch up there.
I loved Ortygia, if you could make that a day trip I really recommend it.
May 1st, 2003, 08:18 AM
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Cotes:
I'd at least reserve one day for the beach down below Taormina (assuming you enjoy the beach). Altho yes it is pebbly, they are tiny and it's pretty comfortable... and utterly beautiful water/surroundings.
Etna would make a good daytrip.. assuming you enjoy hiking. There is a bus that'll take you up the trail to about 2700 metres (legal limit), however it is MUCH more cool if you hike up past that and get a feel of the real mountain. Me and my friend decided to save 40 euro each and just hike from the base camp at 2000 metres.. takes about 3 hours to reach the nearest peak. The main crater takes a herculean effort, you could probably do it in 6-7 hours. Probably longer as you'd be wading through ash .. it's a lot like climbing a sand dune.
Keep in mind you'll encounter lots of wind, flying sand/ash, and the cold.. but it's amazingly beautiful, and is a great experience. Yes it is technically against the rules.. but there weren't exactly anyone to tell you that you can't hike about. Keep in mind that it is dangerous.. but if you are smart and don't go near rock masses that eminate heat, then you should be ok.
This all being said, there ARE a couple of craters right at the base camp basically. You could hike around both in an easy hour... but they aren't really that impressive (old and dormant).
Siricusa would be an interesting day trip. Personally I'd just spend the day in the city itself, and not the archeological park. I don't know when you're going to Taormina, but Siricusa would seem wonderfully un-touristed compared to Taormina should you be there in the summer. Taormina was pretty swamped with tourists, I can't imagine how unbearable it would be in July, really.
GAC:
Mazara was pretty neat. We stayed there with friends. Spent one day at a Pasquetta party and the other touring the city... one day is enough. The casbah is pretty atmospheric, I really enjoyed the whole mess of it. It's quite remarkable how the non-Italians basically all flock into this area... it's a neat mix. Plus Mazara has about a million churches, including it's really beautiful duomo. I'd say the town is worth a day stop.
In Piazza we stayed at the Ostello del Borgo.. which turned out to be a basic hotel. Wasn't bad, decent location, 25 per night and a clean room. Breakfast in the morning, the typical basic Italian colazione. Didn't visit the other towns.. altho I had some friends in Marsala and said they didn't really like it much.
AP6380:
I wish I had gone up to Castelmola, it looked neat. However each day in Taormina I was a beach bum (a nice end to a trip!). I wouldn't recommend climbing to the castle though for the castle's sake, because it's always closed... altho the view is great.
I'd at least reserve one day for the beach down below Taormina (assuming you enjoy the beach). Altho yes it is pebbly, they are tiny and it's pretty comfortable... and utterly beautiful water/surroundings.
Etna would make a good daytrip.. assuming you enjoy hiking. There is a bus that'll take you up the trail to about 2700 metres (legal limit), however it is MUCH more cool if you hike up past that and get a feel of the real mountain. Me and my friend decided to save 40 euro each and just hike from the base camp at 2000 metres.. takes about 3 hours to reach the nearest peak. The main crater takes a herculean effort, you could probably do it in 6-7 hours. Probably longer as you'd be wading through ash .. it's a lot like climbing a sand dune.
Keep in mind you'll encounter lots of wind, flying sand/ash, and the cold.. but it's amazingly beautiful, and is a great experience. Yes it is technically against the rules.. but there weren't exactly anyone to tell you that you can't hike about. Keep in mind that it is dangerous.. but if you are smart and don't go near rock masses that eminate heat, then you should be ok.
This all being said, there ARE a couple of craters right at the base camp basically. You could hike around both in an easy hour... but they aren't really that impressive (old and dormant).
Siricusa would be an interesting day trip. Personally I'd just spend the day in the city itself, and not the archeological park. I don't know when you're going to Taormina, but Siricusa would seem wonderfully un-touristed compared to Taormina should you be there in the summer. Taormina was pretty swamped with tourists, I can't imagine how unbearable it would be in July, really.
GAC:
Mazara was pretty neat. We stayed there with friends. Spent one day at a Pasquetta party and the other touring the city... one day is enough. The casbah is pretty atmospheric, I really enjoyed the whole mess of it. It's quite remarkable how the non-Italians basically all flock into this area... it's a neat mix. Plus Mazara has about a million churches, including it's really beautiful duomo. I'd say the town is worth a day stop.
In Piazza we stayed at the Ostello del Borgo.. which turned out to be a basic hotel. Wasn't bad, decent location, 25 per night and a clean room. Breakfast in the morning, the typical basic Italian colazione. Didn't visit the other towns.. altho I had some friends in Marsala and said they didn't really like it much.
AP6380:
I wish I had gone up to Castelmola, it looked neat. However each day in Taormina I was a beach bum (a nice end to a trip!). I wouldn't recommend climbing to the castle though for the castle's sake, because it's always closed... altho the view is great.
May 1st, 2003, 09:05 AM
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RAR,
Thanks. Since I will want to relax at the beginning of my honeymoon , I'm going to do the beach below Taormina and not trek to the Aeolian's for a day trip. I'm glad you found it enjoyable. Syracusa, Castelmola and Etna will be our other treks.
May 1st, 2003, 10:16 AM
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Cotes- just make sure you don't do what I saw other people doing at Castelmola- they would get off the bus and think that the view was all there was to it, to get up to the town and castle ruins it's a hike up many steps.
Traveller 212- the Gardens were beautiful. Definitely go, the view of the sea is beautiful. You can pull up my trip report for some restaurant recommendations in Taormina. I walked to Isola Bella, across this really narrow (like 1 foot wide) strip of sand that the water wasn't hitting. Whatever is there was closed a month ago, we couldn't actually get into Isola Bella. Does anyone know what is there anyway?
Traveller 212- the Gardens were beautiful. Definitely go, the view of the sea is beautiful. You can pull up my trip report for some restaurant recommendations in Taormina. I walked to Isola Bella, across this really narrow (like 1 foot wide) strip of sand that the water wasn't hitting. Whatever is there was closed a month ago, we couldn't actually get into Isola Bella. Does anyone know what is there anyway?
May 1st, 2003, 11:28 AM
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No I only used the beach right in front of Isolabella. I liked how I could walk down the path from Taormina to it, instead of having to bus to Giardini for their beach.
Restaurant recs.. well of the 3 nights I only went out for dinner twice... and both times to the same place! The 2nd time we wanted to try out this restaurant called Tirami-su', but it was closed that night.. so we went and had a pizza at Trocadero (again). Trocadero has really good pasta, but the pizzas are only so-so. I was informed by a couple of Taormina residents that Tirami-su' is the best spot for pizza in the city.
And the Isolabella is a nature preserve, which I believe you can see by tour. On occasion I would see a group of people enter and come out a lil while later (I spent each day parked on the beach right near the gates).
Restaurant recs.. well of the 3 nights I only went out for dinner twice... and both times to the same place! The 2nd time we wanted to try out this restaurant called Tirami-su', but it was closed that night.. so we went and had a pizza at Trocadero (again). Trocadero has really good pasta, but the pizzas are only so-so. I was informed by a couple of Taormina residents that Tirami-su' is the best spot for pizza in the city.
And the Isolabella is a nature preserve, which I believe you can see by tour. On occasion I would see a group of people enter and come out a lil while later (I spent each day parked on the beach right near the gates).
May 1st, 2003, 12:26 PM
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RAR-
Thanks for the info. I'll be going to Sicily (my 2nd time) for a week in 17 days and counting!
I'm disappointed that the Villa Romana was a let down.
I'd like to hear more about Trapani. Did you visit the salt flats? How about Erice, we were thinking of spending a night there instead of in Trapani itself.
Where did you stay in Trapani and Palermo? Thanks!
Thanks for the info. I'll be going to Sicily (my 2nd time) for a week in 17 days and counting!
I'm disappointed that the Villa Romana was a let down.
I'd like to hear more about Trapani. Did you visit the salt flats? How about Erice, we were thinking of spending a night there instead of in Trapani itself.
Where did you stay in Trapani and Palermo? Thanks!
May 1st, 2003, 12:28 PM
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RAR: a further question about Favignana: did you find the island to more upscale than the city of Trapani, or similar in socio-economic status? Were there "smart" hotels and restaurants, or very rustic? Boutiques and shops? Did you rent a bicycle? Did you make it to Levanzo and Marettimo?
May 1st, 2003, 12:51 PM
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RAR, I agree that some aspects of the Villa Romana were not optimal, but I still think it is a worthwhile stop for the amazing mosaics and for a look at what the life of a vacationing emperor might have been like. We hired a local guide inside the gate there; we could not have understood or enjoyed the place at all without his expertise.
Piazza Armerina and other ruins/historic sites in southern Italy do not offer the clear visitor information pamphlets, maps, and signage (even in Italian) that Americans are accustomed to in our national parks and monuments. In such places, a local guide is worth every penny.
Piazza Armerina and other ruins/historic sites in southern Italy do not offer the clear visitor information pamphlets, maps, and signage (even in Italian) that Americans are accustomed to in our national parks and monuments. In such places, a local guide is worth every penny.
May 1st, 2003, 02:46 PM
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Cristina: no I didn't visit the salt flats. Erice I did enjoy, although I think it'd be more of a short day trip thing (we spent 3 hours there and saw everything at a real slow pace). I suppose you could stay the night but it's a pretty sleepy town when you subtract the tourists.
I cant really help on hotels since I'm a backpacker and I use hostels. That being said I had to stay at the Hotel Regina in Palermo, a nice hotel as 1 star's go... great location and clean.
GAC:
Favignana didn't really seem upscale compared to Trapani. It just seemed like a small town rather than Trapani which has a lot of the city feel to it. It was kept up nicely and had a country-ish feel to it. There were boutique type stores, the typical enoteca types and specialty shops. But the town as a whole lacked a glizty feel... had a nice down-to-earthness about it. Now whether this changes in the summer with the tourists, I don't know.
We rented bikes, which were real fun since everything is flat (they are kinda a necessity also imo.. a car is overkill and walking is a bit too much to get to some places).
We didn't go to Marettimo because the wind was up and the ferry wasn't going there that day. Levanzo didn't seem all that interesting, so we just spent all day on Favignana. But I'm sure it has stuff going for it, I just didnt have time to check it out.
Kayd I personally don't like guides, and basically used my guide book for the information. I usually find it adequate. I agree that the mosaics were at times great, but I couldn't really get the modernity of the scene out of my head and enjoy the villa itself. Thus the dissapointment.. guide or no guide unfortunately.
I cant really help on hotels since I'm a backpacker and I use hostels. That being said I had to stay at the Hotel Regina in Palermo, a nice hotel as 1 star's go... great location and clean.
GAC:
Favignana didn't really seem upscale compared to Trapani. It just seemed like a small town rather than Trapani which has a lot of the city feel to it. It was kept up nicely and had a country-ish feel to it. There were boutique type stores, the typical enoteca types and specialty shops. But the town as a whole lacked a glizty feel... had a nice down-to-earthness about it. Now whether this changes in the summer with the tourists, I don't know.
We rented bikes, which were real fun since everything is flat (they are kinda a necessity also imo.. a car is overkill and walking is a bit too much to get to some places).
We didn't go to Marettimo because the wind was up and the ferry wasn't going there that day. Levanzo didn't seem all that interesting, so we just spent all day on Favignana. But I'm sure it has stuff going for it, I just didnt have time to check it out.
Kayd I personally don't like guides, and basically used my guide book for the information. I usually find it adequate. I agree that the mosaics were at times great, but I couldn't really get the modernity of the scene out of my head and enjoy the villa itself. Thus the dissapointment.. guide or no guide unfortunately.
May 1st, 2003, 06:05 PM
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No one who ever sat at evening under the stars at Villa Athena in Agrigento having dinner while staring at the valley of the temples lit in amber against the starry sky could ever use the word "disappointment" in the same breath. It was a sight I'll never forget. I'm sorry that RAR missed that on an apparent "day trip".
May 2nd, 2003, 02:08 AM
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Anyone who sees Selinunte and then goes to Agrigento right after would agree with me (as one person already has done so in this thread).
I'm sure the Agrigento temples are very pretty at night from your wonderful villa, but not all of us get our jollies by watching monuments from afar. And guess what? I saw them lit at night while I was on my "daytrip". They were pretty. But they are, as you have just helped show, overhyped.
I'm sure the Agrigento temples are very pretty at night from your wonderful villa, but not all of us get our jollies by watching monuments from afar. And guess what? I saw them lit at night while I was on my "daytrip". They were pretty. But they are, as you have just helped show, overhyped.
May 25th, 2003, 07:33 AM
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RAR: I missed this when you posted!
I was very imporessed with the Piazza Armerina mosaics, which were even more extensive and varied than I expected. BUT, I totally agree with you that the plexiglass covering is horrible, and not just because it is ugly and jarring and uncomfortable (hot even during a November visit). I think the covering is going to ruin the mosaics a lot faster than normal exposure to occasional rains and bird droppings. Those mosaics are now baking in the sun under that plastic, and they must be fading fast. Stupid, stupid idea.
Other comments on your comments: I loved the Selinunte site, too. I was also excited to see Phoenician ruins there, and to learn that the Greek structures there are thought to demonstrate a more skilled and sound method of constructuion than those in Greece proper. It has been so many years since I've been in Siracusa and Agrigento that I can't really comment (I do try not to hold a grudge against Agrigento even though I got a horrible case of food poinsoning there--the only time I've ever gotten really sick on a trip). Never saw Noto, but I guess you think I shouldn't be that sorry? Found Ragusa Ibla very unusual and appealing, and like you, was struck by the wonderful views of its steep vertical layers. Didn't see much of Trapani except the salt flats (and just a few weeks ago I saw an inexpensive container of sea salt from Trapani at a local Italian food store and felt "obligated" to buy it). I'm glad you enjoyed Favignana. I'd like to go there some day. Did you also see Mozia in the Egadi? I found that really fascinating, though it is not a normal island where people live (actually just one peson lives there). The whole island is preserved as a museum of Phoenician civilization. How was Enna? It looks really interesting from the distance, way up high on that plateau, but I've never heard (read) anyone say anything too positive about it and have heard some negatives, even from fairly adventourous travelers who love Sicily. Did you see little floating lava stones when you were swimming near Taormina? I assume that you did NOT get altitude sickness on Mt. Etna, lucky you. I did
I remember that you were going to be in Sicily for "Holy Week." I'm curious about any special traditions you may have observed, especially in Trapani and Enna (you didn't happen to go to Piana degli Albanesi, did you--I've heard there are really interesting Holy Week traditions there) Did you happen to notice pagan elements and imagery (e.g., planting themes, trees, Demeter images) mixed in with the Catholic religious traditions?
I was very imporessed with the Piazza Armerina mosaics, which were even more extensive and varied than I expected. BUT, I totally agree with you that the plexiglass covering is horrible, and not just because it is ugly and jarring and uncomfortable (hot even during a November visit). I think the covering is going to ruin the mosaics a lot faster than normal exposure to occasional rains and bird droppings. Those mosaics are now baking in the sun under that plastic, and they must be fading fast. Stupid, stupid idea.
Other comments on your comments: I loved the Selinunte site, too. I was also excited to see Phoenician ruins there, and to learn that the Greek structures there are thought to demonstrate a more skilled and sound method of constructuion than those in Greece proper. It has been so many years since I've been in Siracusa and Agrigento that I can't really comment (I do try not to hold a grudge against Agrigento even though I got a horrible case of food poinsoning there--the only time I've ever gotten really sick on a trip). Never saw Noto, but I guess you think I shouldn't be that sorry? Found Ragusa Ibla very unusual and appealing, and like you, was struck by the wonderful views of its steep vertical layers. Didn't see much of Trapani except the salt flats (and just a few weeks ago I saw an inexpensive container of sea salt from Trapani at a local Italian food store and felt "obligated" to buy it). I'm glad you enjoyed Favignana. I'd like to go there some day. Did you also see Mozia in the Egadi? I found that really fascinating, though it is not a normal island where people live (actually just one peson lives there). The whole island is preserved as a museum of Phoenician civilization. How was Enna? It looks really interesting from the distance, way up high on that plateau, but I've never heard (read) anyone say anything too positive about it and have heard some negatives, even from fairly adventourous travelers who love Sicily. Did you see little floating lava stones when you were swimming near Taormina? I assume that you did NOT get altitude sickness on Mt. Etna, lucky you. I did
I remember that you were going to be in Sicily for "Holy Week." I'm curious about any special traditions you may have observed, especially in Trapani and Enna (you didn't happen to go to Piana degli Albanesi, did you--I've heard there are really interesting Holy Week traditions there) Did you happen to notice pagan elements and imagery (e.g., planting themes, trees, Demeter images) mixed in with the Catholic religious traditions?
May 25th, 2003, 10:25 AM
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We stayed overnight in Piazza Armerina, and were in Enna for a couple days. We did everything by car. And nope I didn't get altitude sickness.. I snowboard a lot so I guess my body is used to it.
I'd recommend seeing Noto, but not until they reopen the duomo in 2006. Right now the main piazza looks like a construction lot, just isn't really worth going to now. I guess you could stop there for an hour or so on the way to Ragusa though. Glad to see I'm not the only one who enjoyed Ragusa... I saw pretty much no tourists there.
There isn't much to see in Trapani itself, it's just where it's situated that is great. Although there is some food there that I'd like to see again (like CALVINO'S PIZZA MMMMMMM~~~~). Didn't get to Mozia, only had time for one island stop. In Trapani we watched the procession of the Misteri, it was truly an unforgettable site. Music and beautiful dress and the misteri all night long. Should you be fortunate enough to be in Sicily on Good Friday, I'd say it's a must. They also have processions in most of the other Sicilian towns (not something that's unique to Trapani), the one in Enna looked pretty neat from the pictures also.
I don't see why anyone would say anything bad about Enna. It's a neat little town, with an amazing view. It's definitely a "real" town though.. so you get everything that comes with it like some traffic and noise. I'd say it's worth a stop while you drive the SS120/121/117.
That's actually one thing I left out of my original post. DRIVE THE SS120! It's really beautiful for the mountain views.
I'd recommend seeing Noto, but not until they reopen the duomo in 2006. Right now the main piazza looks like a construction lot, just isn't really worth going to now. I guess you could stop there for an hour or so on the way to Ragusa though. Glad to see I'm not the only one who enjoyed Ragusa... I saw pretty much no tourists there.
There isn't much to see in Trapani itself, it's just where it's situated that is great. Although there is some food there that I'd like to see again (like CALVINO'S PIZZA MMMMMMM~~~~). Didn't get to Mozia, only had time for one island stop. In Trapani we watched the procession of the Misteri, it was truly an unforgettable site. Music and beautiful dress and the misteri all night long. Should you be fortunate enough to be in Sicily on Good Friday, I'd say it's a must. They also have processions in most of the other Sicilian towns (not something that's unique to Trapani), the one in Enna looked pretty neat from the pictures also.
I don't see why anyone would say anything bad about Enna. It's a neat little town, with an amazing view. It's definitely a "real" town though.. so you get everything that comes with it like some traffic and noise. I'd say it's worth a stop while you drive the SS120/121/117.
That's actually one thing I left out of my original post. DRIVE THE SS120! It's really beautiful for the mountain views.
