Sicily or Puglia for 9 days
Jun 8th, 2012, 04:23 PM
#21
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Thanks, all! This is very helpful. I am leaning toward Sicily, because of the mountainous areas...I love the idea of hiking near Mt. Etna but also have beaches, even if they aren't so great. Though now I am considering Lake Garda again, even though my husband thinks it's too touristy. Or we might change it all up and go to Spain. 
But I'll do some more research and check back in. Thanks!
But I'll do some more research and check back in. Thanks!
Jun 9th, 2012, 01:13 AM
#22
europe - Garda WILL be touristy in Sept - it is a very lovely place but the experience of visiting it, or any of the other italian lakes, is quite different to the sort of touring you are likely to do in Sicily or Puglia.
we spent a week in the town of Garda itself a few years ago, and used the boats and buses to get around, so there was no need for a car. it was nice coming back to Garda every day, but we had our kids with us so that made a difference to what we wanted to do - we weren't interested in bus journeys to Verona or Padua both of which were available, as well as Venice of course.
if i were going to make this into a more dare I say "adult" trip, I might fly into Venice, then hire a car and tour Verona, Padua, Manuta and Vicenza before ending with a few days relaxing by the lake.
we spent a week in the town of Garda itself a few years ago, and used the boats and buses to get around, so there was no need for a car. it was nice coming back to Garda every day, but we had our kids with us so that made a difference to what we wanted to do - we weren't interested in bus journeys to Verona or Padua both of which were available, as well as Venice of course.
if i were going to make this into a more dare I say "adult" trip, I might fly into Venice, then hire a car and tour Verona, Padua, Manuta and Vicenza before ending with a few days relaxing by the lake.
Jun 9th, 2012, 09:56 AM
#23
Just seconding what annhig says about the "adult" trip. We loved our trips to just the places she mentions. Of course Sicily was fabulous too -- very different than the North of Italy. Will be in Puglia this fall so can't address that.
Jun 25th, 2012, 07:21 AM
#24
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I'm back! I've re-read all these responses and Sicily is back on the table. We will have about 9 days and are trying to figure out an itinerary. We really care most about natural beauty and outdoor activities, and about exploring small towns and villages on foot. I don't feel the need to see every historical site. One thing I'm interested in is possibly including an island, either one of the Aeolians or Pantelleria since they seem beautiful and quaint, which we love. I know that means cutting out some of Sicily proper, but I'm curious if you all think it is worth it? How difficult is that to do.
I have read some about Sicily being difficult, and I don't quite know what that means. We have traveled all over including backpacking in South America so I am not really worried, but I also want this trip to be relaxing and beautiful and not full of obstacles. Thanks all!
I have read some about Sicily being difficult, and I don't quite know what that means. We have traveled all over including backpacking in South America so I am not really worried, but I also want this trip to be relaxing and beautiful and not full of obstacles. Thanks all!
Jun 25th, 2012, 11:17 AM
#25
I have read some about Sicily being difficult, and I don't quite know what that means. >>
how i interpret it is that you can't expect everything to be laid on a plate for you - you'll need to do some research in advance, be prepared for things not to go to plan, and to have to ask questions when you are there. As you have back-packed in S. America, it shouldn't present too many problems.
as for the islands, i don't know about how easy they would be as we've not got there yet, but as you won't have enough time to see the whole of sicily in 9 days, you won't be missing some of it, so much as some more of it. with that sort of time scale available, i think that I would feel inclined to pick one area which interested me most [closest to the island/s you fancy] and explore that, rather than trying to see it all which is impossible anyway.
how i interpret it is that you can't expect everything to be laid on a plate for you - you'll need to do some research in advance, be prepared for things not to go to plan, and to have to ask questions when you are there. As you have back-packed in S. America, it shouldn't present too many problems.
as for the islands, i don't know about how easy they would be as we've not got there yet, but as you won't have enough time to see the whole of sicily in 9 days, you won't be missing some of it, so much as some more of it. with that sort of time scale available, i think that I would feel inclined to pick one area which interested me most [closest to the island/s you fancy] and explore that, rather than trying to see it all which is impossible anyway.
Jun 25th, 2012, 10:33 PM
#26
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English is not as prevalent as in anywhere Amalfi Coast and north. Some parts of Sicily almost feel Third World. We did encounter pickpockets on the bus to Monreale from Palermo.
I wouldn't let that any of that stop me from going back.
If you can get your hands on the Footprint guide to Sicily, I found it really inspiring. It covers Sicily in regions, including the islands.
Michelin Green Guide fills in details alphabetically.
Here are a few trip reports you might enjoy.
http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...n-and-rain.cfm
http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...rip-report.cfm
http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...a-430523-2.cfm
And this one begins in the Aiolian islands ( haven't been there...yet)
http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...h-in-italy.cfm
I wouldn't let that any of that stop me from going back.
If you can get your hands on the Footprint guide to Sicily, I found it really inspiring. It covers Sicily in regions, including the islands.
Michelin Green Guide fills in details alphabetically.
Here are a few trip reports you might enjoy.
http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...n-and-rain.cfm
http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...rip-report.cfm
http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...a-430523-2.cfm
And this one begins in the Aiolian islands ( haven't been there...yet)
http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...h-in-italy.cfm
Jun 26th, 2012, 08:32 AM
#27
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EuropeSept, there are ferries and hydrofoils that go to the Aeolian Islands from several towns along the northern and NE coast of Sicily - Palermo, Cefalu, Milazzo, to name a few. The shortest distance is from Milazzo.
And the ferries travel inter-island as well. I did a day trip from Milazzo to Lipari, Vulcano and Stromboli and it was quite enjoyable. So, if you don't want to take too much time away from the Sicilian mainland, there is an option to at least get a taste of one or several islands. I took a bus from Taormina to Milazzo when I went.
I know you mentioned NE Sicily - and IMO, you can't go wrong no matter where you go on the island - but NW Sicily also has a lot to offer in the way of beaches, quaint towns - Mondello beach just outside of Palermo, Capo San Vito, Erice. You can't see everything in 8 or 9 days, but you can see a lot.
I don't know what anyone means by Sicily "being difficult". I have been there many times and have never had problems getting around or being understood.
I first went there 30 years ago when tourism was much less than it is now, and before I learned to speak Italian. My friend and I got along fine with a phrase book and had nothing but pleasant, fun experiences. I have always used public transportation in Sicily but will rent a car the next time I go, to explore some of the more remote places.
Puglia and Sicily are the places of my heritage, so I'm honored that you were considering both. Don't discount Puglia for a future trip. It has lovely scenery, which I describe as "quietly beautiful".
My favorite part was the Gargano Peninsula but the drive along the heel to Santa Maria de Leuca is stunning. And the food is delicious and unique.
Sicily and Puglia are two of the more exotic parts of Italy having been invaded from the north and the mideast, and comprising elements of a variety of cultures.
And the ferries travel inter-island as well. I did a day trip from Milazzo to Lipari, Vulcano and Stromboli and it was quite enjoyable. So, if you don't want to take too much time away from the Sicilian mainland, there is an option to at least get a taste of one or several islands. I took a bus from Taormina to Milazzo when I went.
I know you mentioned NE Sicily - and IMO, you can't go wrong no matter where you go on the island - but NW Sicily also has a lot to offer in the way of beaches, quaint towns - Mondello beach just outside of Palermo, Capo San Vito, Erice. You can't see everything in 8 or 9 days, but you can see a lot.
I don't know what anyone means by Sicily "being difficult". I have been there many times and have never had problems getting around or being understood.
I first went there 30 years ago when tourism was much less than it is now, and before I learned to speak Italian. My friend and I got along fine with a phrase book and had nothing but pleasant, fun experiences. I have always used public transportation in Sicily but will rent a car the next time I go, to explore some of the more remote places.
Puglia and Sicily are the places of my heritage, so I'm honored that you were considering both.
Don't discount Puglia for a future trip. It has lovely scenery, which I describe as "quietly beautiful".My favorite part was the Gargano Peninsula but the drive along the heel to Santa Maria de Leuca is stunning. And the food is delicious and unique.
Sicily and Puglia are two of the more exotic parts of Italy having been invaded from the north and the mideast, and comprising elements of a variety of cultures.
Jun 29th, 2012, 10:16 AM
#28
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Thanks all! I think we will probably stick with either Eastern Sicily or just Taormina and the Aeolians. The one thing is I would love to stay at Azienda Agricola Madranova in Agrigento. Could I do this possible itinerary with about 8 nights?
Fly into Cantania
Taormina and Etna
Modica
Agrigento
Back out of Catania
I know we are not seeing that many places, but we imagine stopping along the way to see other things. It looks like Syracuse is between Taormina and Modica. We really are not looking to cram in too much. We want mostly natural beauty, beautiful views of the water, interesting towns, relaxation and some hiking if possible.
Other option is:
Fly into Catania
Head to Aeolians (probably Salina) for 4 nights
back to Taormina for 4 nights and do day trips from there
Fly out of Catania
Does anyone have any thoughts? Thanks!
Fly into Cantania
Taormina and Etna
Modica
Agrigento
Back out of Catania
I know we are not seeing that many places, but we imagine stopping along the way to see other things. It looks like Syracuse is between Taormina and Modica. We really are not looking to cram in too much. We want mostly natural beauty, beautiful views of the water, interesting towns, relaxation and some hiking if possible.
Other option is:
Fly into Catania
Head to Aeolians (probably Salina) for 4 nights
back to Taormina for 4 nights and do day trips from there
Fly out of Catania
Does anyone have any thoughts? Thanks!
Jun 29th, 2012, 11:47 AM
#30
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I vote for Sicily as it is one of my most favorite places on earth for its wonderful people,marvelous food and scenery;great history,shopping and wine!
Having been to Sicily numerous times and a daughter who lived there for awhile, Taormina to me is like the Wisconsin Dells-too many tourists,tacky shops,etc. Yes the theatre is fabulous but there are sooooo many other fabulous spots in Eastern Sicily that you would enjoy more.Four nights there is 3 nights too many!
If you are only going to do the Eastern side, then base yourself in Ortigia(the old part of Siracusa-magical!)1 mile by 1 1/2 miles surrounded by water and a car/walking bridge to the mainland of Siracusa and the ruins for a few days.Possibly stop and do a daytrip with Geoexplorer out of Catania to Etna if it isn't smoking and then head up to the Aeolians for a few days before heading back to Catania?
Just remember that Sicily is what Tuscany was 40 years ago before the American tourists ruined it-go now before it changes. Just saying...
Having been to Sicily numerous times and a daughter who lived there for awhile, Taormina to me is like the Wisconsin Dells-too many tourists,tacky shops,etc. Yes the theatre is fabulous but there are sooooo many other fabulous spots in Eastern Sicily that you would enjoy more.Four nights there is 3 nights too many!
If you are only going to do the Eastern side, then base yourself in Ortigia(the old part of Siracusa-magical!)1 mile by 1 1/2 miles surrounded by water and a car/walking bridge to the mainland of Siracusa and the ruins for a few days.Possibly stop and do a daytrip with Geoexplorer out of Catania to Etna if it isn't smoking and then head up to the Aeolians for a few days before heading back to Catania?
Just remember that Sicily is what Tuscany was 40 years ago before the American tourists ruined it-go now before it changes. Just saying...
Jun 29th, 2012, 01:17 PM
#37
I completely agree with dutyfree, both about loving Sicily, and about spending time in Ortigia rather than Taormina.
However, based on the OPs interests, I might suggest the west coast rather than the east, especially Erice and the Zingaro National Reserve.
I'll add my TR to the list:
http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...ing-sicily.cfm
and photos of Erice:
http://kwilhelm.smugmug.com/Travel/S...aly-2008/Erice
However, based on the OPs interests, I might suggest the west coast rather than the east, especially Erice and the Zingaro National Reserve.
I'll add my TR to the list:
http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...ing-sicily.cfm
and photos of Erice:
http://kwilhelm.smugmug.com/Travel/S...aly-2008/Erice
Jun 29th, 2012, 05:24 PM
#38
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While Taormina is definitely tourist-filled, it is beautiful! When I was there, the main street was shoulder-to-shoulder people, so I stepped to a parallel road, which I found almost (and wonderfully) empty - lovely! So I visited the main street at night, after day-trippers left. I used my day time hours for the theater, a visit to Castelmola and down to Isola Bella, and roaming around the back streets of town. For my 2nd day in the area, I joined a group tour of Mt. Etna and the Gole Alcantara; I found both fascinating.
Like so many others, I also adored Ortygia and was glad to spend a couple of days there. It's also a good base for Noto and the Baroque towns.
Agrigento has some amazing ruins and also a very good museum. And it has a small, interesting medieval core that many people skip.
I spent part of a day in Lipari. Lovely, but not the kind of place I prefer to visit for more than a day as I don't generally travel in search of relaxation.
I haven't visited Catania or Modica yet.
It's a beautiful part of the world, so you should have some wonderful experiences no matter which places you choose. Hope this helps!
Like so many others, I also adored Ortygia and was glad to spend a couple of days there. It's also a good base for Noto and the Baroque towns.
Agrigento has some amazing ruins and also a very good museum. And it has a small, interesting medieval core that many people skip.
I spent part of a day in Lipari. Lovely, but not the kind of place I prefer to visit for more than a day as I don't generally travel in search of relaxation.
I haven't visited Catania or Modica yet.
It's a beautiful part of the world, so you should have some wonderful experiences no matter which places you choose. Hope this helps!
