Sicily Itinerary
Sep 20th, 2012, 04:28 PM
#61
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Europe,
Please make time for a trip report. Think of all the help you got here, now it's time to repay that. I'm heading to Sicily in April 2013 and would love to hear more about your experiences!
Grazie!
Please make time for a trip report. Think of all the help you got here, now it's time to repay that. I'm heading to Sicily in April 2013 and would love to hear more about your experiences!
Grazie!
Sep 21st, 2012, 06:39 AM
#65
Hi europe,
thanks so much for letting us know what a great time you had, and your impressions of Sicily.
i understand about not wanting to do a full-blown trip report, but is there any chance of your posting the details of the places you stayed? with a sentence or two about each of them? i know that several of us are hoping to go to Sicily next year and personal recommendations [or not!] are most valuable when it comes to trip planning.
thanks so much for letting us know what a great time you had, and your impressions of Sicily.
i understand about not wanting to do a full-blown trip report, but is there any chance of your posting the details of the places you stayed? with a sentence or two about each of them? i know that several of us are hoping to go to Sicily next year and personal recommendations [or not!] are most valuable when it comes to trip planning.
Sep 21st, 2012, 12:28 PM
#66
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Hello all,
I am happy to give more details if not a full trip report, and will try to check back if anyone has questions. The basics:
Fly into Catania, pick up rental car
1 night at Hotel Taodomus in Taormina--great location, nice room, great view of Etna from the roof during breakfast. We visited the greek theater and took a walk around town. Taormina is beautiful, but a bit too touristy for us and we knew we'd have great views in the Aeolians.
We then drove to Milazzo for the ferry to Panarea. We spent 1 night at Hotel Raya in Panarea. Panarea is beautiful, the views from the pool and decks at Raya were amazing. Raya is overpriced, even in the low season, but it was worth it for us to get to see Panarea.
After Panarea, we went to Salina where we stayed at Hotel Signum for 3 nights. Signum is a beautiful hotel. THe views from the pool are amazing and the food is great. We loved Salina. One of my favorite places in the world. We went to Pollara, hiked Monte dei Porre, and just enjoyed the hotel and beach. I could have stayed even longer.
We then took a ferry to Milazzo, picked up our car from long term parking (very easy) and drove to Modica. This was a 3 hour drive, but it wasn't bad for us at all. We arrived in Modica in the early evening. We stayed at Le Lumie for 2 nights which had easy parking (they will meet you at your car and show you how to get there). The B&B was great, very nice rooms, beautiful views. We loved just walking around Modica and enjoying the view at night from the hotel courtyard.
Our next stop was Azienda Agricola Mandranova near Agrigento for 3 nights. This place is great. Very nice rooms, incredible home-made food, beautiful olive orchard and great pool. There is not a lot to do around here except for the temples, but we were happy to relax by the pool.
Our last full day we drove to Scopello and ate lunch and hung out on the beach at the tonnara. We were going to hike Zingaro but it was closed. We then stayed in Castellammare for one night and drove to the airport early the next morning. It was very easy.
All is all, we loved the trip. We are in our early 30s and have done a lot of traveling and found Sicily to be a pretty easy place to travel, though perhaps a bit more of an adventure than other places in Western Europe. We actually loved that about it, though. Hope this helps!
I am happy to give more details if not a full trip report, and will try to check back if anyone has questions. The basics:
Fly into Catania, pick up rental car
1 night at Hotel Taodomus in Taormina--great location, nice room, great view of Etna from the roof during breakfast. We visited the greek theater and took a walk around town. Taormina is beautiful, but a bit too touristy for us and we knew we'd have great views in the Aeolians.
We then drove to Milazzo for the ferry to Panarea. We spent 1 night at Hotel Raya in Panarea. Panarea is beautiful, the views from the pool and decks at Raya were amazing. Raya is overpriced, even in the low season, but it was worth it for us to get to see Panarea.
After Panarea, we went to Salina where we stayed at Hotel Signum for 3 nights. Signum is a beautiful hotel. THe views from the pool are amazing and the food is great. We loved Salina. One of my favorite places in the world. We went to Pollara, hiked Monte dei Porre, and just enjoyed the hotel and beach. I could have stayed even longer.
We then took a ferry to Milazzo, picked up our car from long term parking (very easy) and drove to Modica. This was a 3 hour drive, but it wasn't bad for us at all. We arrived in Modica in the early evening. We stayed at Le Lumie for 2 nights which had easy parking (they will meet you at your car and show you how to get there). The B&B was great, very nice rooms, beautiful views. We loved just walking around Modica and enjoying the view at night from the hotel courtyard.
Our next stop was Azienda Agricola Mandranova near Agrigento for 3 nights. This place is great. Very nice rooms, incredible home-made food, beautiful olive orchard and great pool. There is not a lot to do around here except for the temples, but we were happy to relax by the pool.
Our last full day we drove to Scopello and ate lunch and hung out on the beach at the tonnara. We were going to hike Zingaro but it was closed. We then stayed in Castellammare for one night and drove to the airport early the next morning. It was very easy.
All is all, we loved the trip. We are in our early 30s and have done a lot of traveling and found Sicily to be a pretty easy place to travel, though perhaps a bit more of an adventure than other places in Western Europe. We actually loved that about it, though. Hope this helps!
Sep 21st, 2012, 12:45 PM
#67
europe - grazie mille.
this is just the sort of info that we need to plan our trip. I think that like you I'd like to see Taormina, but without the tourists hoards, so a "one-night stand" sounds like a very good idea.
I'm adding your recommendations to my planning list.
this is just the sort of info that we need to plan our trip. I think that like you I'd like to see Taormina, but without the tourists hoards, so a "one-night stand" sounds like a very good idea.
I'm adding your recommendations to my planning list.
Sep 21st, 2012, 05:39 PM
#68
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Europe,
Thanks for the additional information. Do you know why the Zingaro Preserve was closed? Seasonal? Rain damage? I want to hike through too on my trip.
Annhig, I decided to stay in Castlemola at Hotel Sonia. Looks very good for views and a one nighter at much less $ than the view hotels in Taormina.
Thanks for the additional information. Do you know why the Zingaro Preserve was closed? Seasonal? Rain damage? I want to hike through too on my trip.
Annhig, I decided to stay in Castlemola at Hotel Sonia. Looks very good for views and a one nighter at much less $ than the view hotels in Taormina.
Sep 21st, 2012, 06:47 PM
#69
Hi, europe: we also stayed one night at Le Lumie. Are the owners/family the nicest people in the world or what?! The next two nights we stayed at Casa Talia, whose owners designed Le Lumie. Talia was a tiny bit more upscale, but not snottily so, and we really appreciated having access to the gardens. Loved both places.
Dayle: the only problem with staying in Castelmola is that it's a long ride from Taormina and there is really nothing to do there. My husband and I usually enjoy "nothing to do" places, but Castelmola was, in our experience (as day-trippers), a bit lonely & isolated. But I admit that I am one of the minority who was surprised to fall in love with Taormina (we stayed 3 days and nights), and would go back in a half of a half second!
Dayle: the only problem with staying in Castelmola is that it's a long ride from Taormina and there is really nothing to do there. My husband and I usually enjoy "nothing to do" places, but Castelmola was, in our experience (as day-trippers), a bit lonely & isolated. But I admit that I am one of the minority who was surprised to fall in love with Taormina (we stayed 3 days and nights), and would go back in a half of a half second!
Sep 21st, 2012, 07:39 PM
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> Castelmola was, in our experience (as day-trippers), a bit lonely & isolated.
I was glad to have spent an hour or two in Castelmola. I was very, VERY glad that I chose to spend my one night in the area in Taormina itself. I thought it wonderful once the day-trippers had left.
I was glad to have spent an hour or two in Castelmola. I was very, VERY glad that I chose to spend my one night in the area in Taormina itself. I thought it wonderful once the day-trippers had left.
Sep 22nd, 2012, 02:50 AM
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Agree with kja and LuciaV - I also absolutely love Taormina, rather elite, always IMO, - atmosphere is so different from rest of Sicily - you need to stay the evening as well though. Maybe it is because I was younger when I visited quite a few times this town, but I just loved strolling along the main street with friends, stopping for a meal, gelato or coffee or a drink, at a restaurant, or cafeteria or bar in the evenings, and enjoying my swims during the day at the beach below (there is a lift that takes you from Taormina centre to the beaches below - plenty of restaurants, bars etc there as well). It is also a good base to visit Etna - so annhig, if I were you I would consider staying there for two nights, since your other stops are not on the eastern coast. Taormina is not cheap though - many tourists from northern Europeon countries visit this town, as well as Sicilians come even from Catania and elsewhere to chill out.
For those who want to stay close to Catania, but not, understandably in Catania itself, just to the north a few kms away, there are the nearby coastal towns called Acireale and Aci Castello (where are are picturesque castle ruins near the rocky coast, which are lovely.
One can also do a day trip to Taormina or Etna from there, as they are all on the eastern coast, and easily can be done in a day trip, and if you feel up to it, also visit Catania or visites some towns inland. Maybe they would be less packed with tourists than the renowned areas (they are not much mentioned here on Fodors - but loved by locals for sure - again several bars and restaurants on the coast - if I remember well, Acireale is larger and has a nice centre. If interested, do some research on these places.
For those who want to stay close to Catania, but not, understandably in Catania itself, just to the north a few kms away, there are the nearby coastal towns called Acireale and Aci Castello (where are are picturesque castle ruins near the rocky coast, which are lovely.
One can also do a day trip to Taormina or Etna from there, as they are all on the eastern coast, and easily can be done in a day trip, and if you feel up to it, also visit Catania or visites some towns inland. Maybe they would be less packed with tourists than the renowned areas (they are not much mentioned here on Fodors - but loved by locals for sure - again several bars and restaurants on the coast - if I remember well, Acireale is larger and has a nice centre. If interested, do some research on these places.
Sep 22nd, 2012, 03:05 AM
#73
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Forgot to add - you are going to enjoy the Sicilian cuisine so much - their sauces, the way they cook their seafood - th suppa di pesce or fritti etc, the fresh anchovies, their grilled aubergines, their cherry tomatoes, their confectioneries, their jams - I could go on and on and on - are to die for. Big meals might be expensive in Taormina though - so leave them for everywhere else.
Sep 22nd, 2012, 10:11 AM
#74
anna - you've sold me on 2 nights in Taormina - probably.
it all depends on how long we're going to have, which as the moment i don't know.
and please stop talking about the food - it sounds so tempting.
it all depends on how long we're going to have, which as the moment i don't know.
and please stop talking about the food - it sounds so tempting.
Sep 22nd, 2012, 02:12 PM
#75
Though Taormina is not cheap, it is also not impossible to visit without breaking the bank. Especially if you don't eat every meal at a restaurant, and instead take advantage of the nearby (within 10 minutes walking distance) "grocery" store that sells most of the wonderful things anna just described! e.g., I could happily make a meal out of a container of mascarpone (which I don't even care for in the US).
Sep 22nd, 2012, 02:38 PM
#76
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True lucieV - it won't break the bank for sure even to have a nice plate of pasta at a restaurant, not unaffordable for sure, I was just comparing Taormina to say, Catania or Syracuse or Palermo. We always ate in restaurants in Taormina, (I would never cook when I go on holiday, I do so much cooking at home, I would want a break from the kitchen for sure - the ones that are not in the very centre would have better prices.
annhig - I don't think you will regret staying in Taormina for 2 nights - you can do a daytrip during the day, and chill out in the evenings in Taormina. It makes a change from the usual Sicilian towns and cities.
Yes, their food is tempting - Sicilian cuisine is unique, and sooo abundant, especially fish. Don't forget to try their zuppa di pesce - oh dear, there I go again!!!
annhig - I don't think you will regret staying in Taormina for 2 nights - you can do a daytrip during the day, and chill out in the evenings in Taormina. It makes a change from the usual Sicilian towns and cities.
Yes, their food is tempting - Sicilian cuisine is unique, and sooo abundant, especially fish. Don't forget to try their zuppa di pesce - oh dear, there I go again!!!
Sep 22nd, 2012, 02:51 PM
#77
I completely agree, Anna. I never cook when on vacation either; especially when I'm in a country where the food, even from a hole-in-the-wall that's not in anybody's guidebook, is invariably wonderful!
Sep 24th, 2012, 11:43 AM
#78
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Dayle-Zingaro seemed to be closed because it had been raining the night before. But--the entire middle of the park is indefinitely closed due to fire damage. So you can hike from Scopello in a bit and then from San Vito Lo Capo in a bit, but you cannot hike the middle. At least not as of now. You should try to check when you get closer. It looked gorgeous from the parking lot--we were sad to miss the hike!
Lucie--yes, the owners at Le Lumie were so so so nice! I really loved staying there. Drinking wine in the courtyard at twilight was one of my favorite memories of our whole trip!
Lucie--yes, the owners at Le Lumie were so so so nice! I really loved staying there. Drinking wine in the courtyard at twilight was one of my favorite memories of our whole trip!
Sep 24th, 2012, 03:03 PM
#79
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Europe - Thank you for that detail. As I get closer to April, I will check the status. If I can only hike in from Scopello that will probably be OK.
You all are making me second guess my decision to stay in Castlemola. I am only going to be there for 1 nt and 1 day so maybe it's not worth the trip back and forth from Castlemola to see the theater and stroll a bit in the afternoon when I arrive?
I'll be leaving early the next morning for Lipari and don't plan on visiting Etna. No interest in volcanos (other than as a view) more than I've already seen in Hawaii.
You all are making me second guess my decision to stay in Castlemola. I am only going to be there for 1 nt and 1 day so maybe it's not worth the trip back and forth from Castlemola to see the theater and stroll a bit in the afternoon when I arrive?
I'll be leaving early the next morning for Lipari and don't plan on visiting Etna. No interest in volcanos (other than as a view) more than I've already seen in Hawaii.
Sep 24th, 2012, 04:00 PM
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> You all are making me second guess my decision to stay in Castlemola. I am only going to be there for 1 nt and 1 day so maybe it's not worth the trip back and forth from Castlemola to see the theater and stroll a bit in the afternoon when I arrive?
I liked the views from Castelmola, but was glad I spent the night in Taormina. Early one evening, I took the bus from Taormina to Castelmola, stopped for a glass of almond wine on the open-air upper-story deck of a cliff-side restaurant, and then walked back downhill. All together, that probably took about 1.5 hours. I would not have made it my highest priority for a night in Taormina, but to each his/her own!
I liked the views from Castelmola, but was glad I spent the night in Taormina. Early one evening, I took the bus from Taormina to Castelmola, stopped for a glass of almond wine on the open-air upper-story deck of a cliff-side restaurant, and then walked back downhill. All together, that probably took about 1.5 hours. I would not have made it my highest priority for a night in Taormina, but to each his/her own!
