Sicily Itinerary
Jul 9th, 2012, 07:21 AM
#22
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Thanks, all! My last (hopefully!) question is this: Should we base ourselves in Panarea or Salina for our 4 nights (maybe 3) in the Aeolians? I want somewhere beautiful, which I have heard Panarea is, but I have also heard it is very quiet. That is fine, but we do want to be able to go to restaurants. Any lodging suggestions in either of those locations would be great too!
Jul 9th, 2012, 09:38 AM
#23
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Have a look at this one in Salina
http://www.mammasantina.it/hotel_salina_reservation.asp
Mid range price, good views, and has its own restaurant, reportedly good food.
http://www.mammasantina.it/hotel_salina_reservation.asp
Mid range price, good views, and has its own restaurant, reportedly good food.
Jul 10th, 2012, 10:09 AM
#24
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Ok, plane tickets are booked! Thanks for all your help. Our probable itinerary in early September is:
Fly into Catania
2 nights stay near Etna, and climb Etna on Sept. 6 (Relais Monaci delle terre nerre)
4 nights Aeolian Islands, probably Salina (prob Hotel Signum)
1 night in Modica
3 nights at Azienda Mandranova near Agrigento
1 night in Palermo, fly out of Palermo
The one change I might make is to skip Modica and spend 2 nights near Palermo, maybe exploring Erice on our way up there. I wasn't considering Palermo at all, but it does make sense itinerary-wise so I would love any thoughts on that. Thanks!
Fly into Catania
2 nights stay near Etna, and climb Etna on Sept. 6 (Relais Monaci delle terre nerre)
4 nights Aeolian Islands, probably Salina (prob Hotel Signum)
1 night in Modica
3 nights at Azienda Mandranova near Agrigento
1 night in Palermo, fly out of Palermo
The one change I might make is to skip Modica and spend 2 nights near Palermo, maybe exploring Erice on our way up there. I wasn't considering Palermo at all, but it does make sense itinerary-wise so I would love any thoughts on that. Thanks!
Jul 10th, 2012, 10:55 PM
#29
We visited Sicily in late September 2011 -- our first visit, though we've been to mainland Italy at least a dozen times.
Despite being very leery about Taormina after reading all the warnings about its "touristy" rep, I <i>loved</i> the place. I'd return in a heartbeat (though not in June, July or August -- it would be too hot and crowded for me). It's not a place to daytrip to, though, because that IS when the cruise ships spew out the tourist groups; the best times to luxuriate in its atmosphere are mornings and evenings, when you can walk around and enjoy peace and quiet along with the beauty. We also hiked a bit in the hills around the town, which was delicious: we were the absolute only people on the trails, and we ran into several families of goats and sheep. We did not make the trip to Etna, but at least we could see it from our hotel every morning at breakfast.
Modica is lovely, but a day there is more than enough (we spent 2 nights and 2 days); in fact, the night time is the best there, imo: the way the hills are lit at night is almost otherworldly in its beauty.
Cefalu is lovely, too, in a completely different way (beach).
Ortigia did not ring my bell, but I only spent a day there, and I also know I'm in the minority on that!
Palermo was the great surprise, though: beautiful, interesting, and rich with life. 3 days was not long enough for us; it is another city to which I really do hope to return & explore.
Despite being very leery about Taormina after reading all the warnings about its "touristy" rep, I <i>loved</i> the place. I'd return in a heartbeat (though not in June, July or August -- it would be too hot and crowded for me). It's not a place to daytrip to, though, because that IS when the cruise ships spew out the tourist groups; the best times to luxuriate in its atmosphere are mornings and evenings, when you can walk around and enjoy peace and quiet along with the beauty. We also hiked a bit in the hills around the town, which was delicious: we were the absolute only people on the trails, and we ran into several families of goats and sheep. We did not make the trip to Etna, but at least we could see it from our hotel every morning at breakfast.
Modica is lovely, but a day there is more than enough (we spent 2 nights and 2 days); in fact, the night time is the best there, imo: the way the hills are lit at night is almost otherworldly in its beauty.
Cefalu is lovely, too, in a completely different way (beach).
Ortigia did not ring my bell, but I only spent a day there, and I also know I'm in the minority on that!
Palermo was the great surprise, though: beautiful, interesting, and rich with life. 3 days was not long enough for us; it is another city to which I really do hope to return & explore.
Jul 11th, 2012, 08:51 AM
#30
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Ditto what LucieV says about Taormina! If you want to be near Etna, you *might as well* stay there. 
However, the center of town is a pedestrian-only zone, so make sure your hotel has parking - and that you can get to it without too much trouble!
FWIW, we stayed at the Hotel Schuler. It's a bit of a budget hotel, but we got a very good rate on a room with a balcony. The staff was friendly and helpful, and breakfast on the terrace simple and delicious!
However, the center of town is a pedestrian-only zone, so make sure your hotel has parking - and that you can get to it without too much trouble!FWIW, we stayed at the Hotel Schuler. It's a bit of a budget hotel, but we got a very good rate on a room with a balcony. The staff was friendly and helpful, and breakfast on the terrace simple and delicious!
Jul 11th, 2012, 10:22 AM
#31
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Agree with ggreen that you may use Taormina as a base.
Personally, I love Taormina, and have visited the town several times on holidays in Sicily. When I was young and single, I worked for a couple of years in the administration office with a ferry service to Sicily, and they used to give us 2 free tickets per month during the Summer months, so we used to go even for a weekend sometimes, or for just the day to do some shopping.
True, many tourists from northern countries in Europe visit it, as well as locals, but I just love the atmosphere, especially in the evenings. Mid September is not its peak tourist season, August is, when the Italians have their Summer break. Saying that, I have been in mid August and still enjoyed it.
Also before we had kids me and my husband were driving overland to mainland Italy from Sicily, and we drove and stopped for lunch in Taormina (I told you - I just love this town). We had managed to find parking somewhere up the hill at that time, but of course the pedestrian-only zone was already there in its centre.
People would be strolling up and down the main street in the evenings, maybe stopping for a gelato or a coffee or a drink at one of the bars,there is also a belvedere and beautiful gardens, as another Fodorite mentioned. I just love it in the evenings.
There are public lifts from upper Taormina in the centre, to lower Taormina, where the long sandy beaches are. We used to lo ve our swims there in our younger days. There you also find plenty of restaurants, bars, discos etc to enjoy.
It is not really a town where you go for culture or sight-seeing. It is more a relaxing holiday to enjoy the seaside, for nightlife and its lovely views. If you intend to stay in the centre of Taormina I would stay in a hotel that offers a view, really breathtaking.
Agree with ggreen that you might want to find hotel with parking, as main street is a pedestrian only zone, otherwise you would have to park on outskirts, or down the hill close to where buses etc stop, and then maybe take a very short taxi ride up the hill close to hotel.
Just in case you are interested, there are a couple of coastal towns, just a few km away from Taormina, they are not up the hill, but still offer spectacular views and are summer resorts with lovely beaches. One is called, if I remember well, Letojani - sorry I can't remember the other name, but if you want I can research for you.
One thing I must tell you. Since Taormina is a popular tourist resort, it is not cheap. Accomodation and restaurants are expensive compared to rest of Sicily. These coastal towns I mentioned above might be a cheaper option for sure, plenty of restaurants, bars and lovely beaches for a swim,lovely sea views,and you can easily visit Taormina, Etna, Catania and so many other places from there. Many tourists prefer to base themselves from there, due to more affordable hotels.
You might very easily experience nice hot weather in September, so if you love swimming in the Mediterranean Sea, I would suggest you take your bathing costume with you.
If you need any advice, I would be more than happy to assist you.
Personally, I love Taormina, and have visited the town several times on holidays in Sicily. When I was young and single, I worked for a couple of years in the administration office with a ferry service to Sicily, and they used to give us 2 free tickets per month during the Summer months, so we used to go even for a weekend sometimes, or for just the day to do some shopping.
True, many tourists from northern countries in Europe visit it, as well as locals, but I just love the atmosphere, especially in the evenings. Mid September is not its peak tourist season, August is, when the Italians have their Summer break. Saying that, I have been in mid August and still enjoyed it.
Also before we had kids me and my husband were driving overland to mainland Italy from Sicily, and we drove and stopped for lunch in Taormina (I told you - I just love this town). We had managed to find parking somewhere up the hill at that time, but of course the pedestrian-only zone was already there in its centre.
People would be strolling up and down the main street in the evenings, maybe stopping for a gelato or a coffee or a drink at one of the bars,there is also a belvedere and beautiful gardens, as another Fodorite mentioned. I just love it in the evenings.
There are public lifts from upper Taormina in the centre, to lower Taormina, where the long sandy beaches are. We used to lo ve our swims there in our younger days. There you also find plenty of restaurants, bars, discos etc to enjoy.
It is not really a town where you go for culture or sight-seeing. It is more a relaxing holiday to enjoy the seaside, for nightlife and its lovely views. If you intend to stay in the centre of Taormina I would stay in a hotel that offers a view, really breathtaking.
Agree with ggreen that you might want to find hotel with parking, as main street is a pedestrian only zone, otherwise you would have to park on outskirts, or down the hill close to where buses etc stop, and then maybe take a very short taxi ride up the hill close to hotel.
Just in case you are interested, there are a couple of coastal towns, just a few km away from Taormina, they are not up the hill, but still offer spectacular views and are summer resorts with lovely beaches. One is called, if I remember well, Letojani - sorry I can't remember the other name, but if you want I can research for you.
One thing I must tell you. Since Taormina is a popular tourist resort, it is not cheap. Accomodation and restaurants are expensive compared to rest of Sicily. These coastal towns I mentioned above might be a cheaper option for sure, plenty of restaurants, bars and lovely beaches for a swim,lovely sea views,and you can easily visit Taormina, Etna, Catania and so many other places from there. Many tourists prefer to base themselves from there, due to more affordable hotels.
You might very easily experience nice hot weather in September, so if you love swimming in the Mediterranean Sea, I would suggest you take your bathing costume with you.
If you need any advice, I would be more than happy to assist you.
Jul 11th, 2012, 10:33 AM
#32
ggreen, we also stayed at the Schuler, and could not have been more delighted. Personally, I am amazed that it's considered a "budget" hotel...it was one of the nicest, most beautiful, most pleasant stays I've ever had in all the years we've been traveling, and we've stayed in a few "luxury" hotels.
Cappuccinos and brioches with fresh melon on the Hotel Schuler patio in the ever-so-quiet of the intense morning sun, looking at Etna, is going to be a memory that I carry to my grave.
Cappuccinos and brioches with fresh melon on the Hotel Schuler patio in the ever-so-quiet of the intense morning sun, looking at Etna, is going to be a memory that I carry to my grave.
Jul 11th, 2012, 01:19 PM
#33
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Forgot to add - Erice and Trapani, are worth a visit, and also Monreale and a day visit to Palermo. The scenary to the north west of Sicily is really breathtaking. Messina is also a lovely old city. There is a clock tower in the centre of the city that has statues that move mechanically every day at noon.
Jul 11th, 2012, 02:14 PM
#34
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Wow, both of you just gave me goosebumps - such an instant, vivid memory of Taormina from your descriptions! I absolutely loved walking around in the evening and browsing the amazing window displays, and then in the morning exploring the narrow streets out to the English gardens and the Greek arena...
My trip was two years ago, and we were starting our vacation in Sicily in order to visit my sister who was living there at the time. The Icelandic volcano shifted our trip by a week, and she wasn't able to put us up on the first night, so we went to Taormina instead. I'm so happy we did! She picked us up at the airport in Catania, drove to Taormina and parked in a parking structure on the edge of the pedestrian zone. (From what I remember, the parking was reasonably priced.) We then schlepped our bags all the way down the street to Hotel Schuler! We could have easily driven there, dropped the bags and returned to the parking garage...
At any rate, Taormina and the Hotel Schuler were the perfect antidote to all that cattle-car travel. LucieV, I agree that it's so surprising that the hotel is considered budget! It was so reasonably priced for a room with a sea view. And you described the morning perfectly. In all the subsequent hotel breakfasts we had on that trip, only one had a comparable view, and none had comparable quality (even the "luxury" hotel in Rome). For me, too, I won't soon forget it!
My trip was two years ago, and we were starting our vacation in Sicily in order to visit my sister who was living there at the time. The Icelandic volcano shifted our trip by a week, and she wasn't able to put us up on the first night, so we went to Taormina instead. I'm so happy we did! She picked us up at the airport in Catania, drove to Taormina and parked in a parking structure on the edge of the pedestrian zone. (From what I remember, the parking was reasonably priced.) We then schlepped our bags all the way down the street to Hotel Schuler! We could have easily driven there, dropped the bags and returned to the parking garage...
At any rate, Taormina and the Hotel Schuler were the perfect antidote to all that cattle-car travel. LucieV, I agree that it's so surprising that the hotel is considered budget! It was so reasonably priced for a room with a sea view. And you described the morning perfectly. In all the subsequent hotel breakfasts we had on that trip, only one had a comparable view, and none had comparable quality (even the "luxury" hotel in Rome). For me, too, I won't soon forget it!
Jul 12th, 2012, 01:05 AM
#35
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ggreen - I absolutely agree with you that in my opinion Taormina is a must if you visit Sicily. It is considered the elite town of Sicily and many tourists from Switzerland and northern countries visit it repeatedly - at least they used to when I used to visit it. Now you are making me want to go there again after many years, lol (I always tell myself that I have had enough of Sicily).
Yes, it does get way too crowdy in July/August, but I guess that is the case everywhere in many cities in Italy, like in Florence or in coastal towns and resorts like in Rimini,, but also in so many other countries in Europe. That is why nowadays I prefer to take holidays in September or in the Wintertime. But in my younger days, when I was single and used to go on holidays with friends, I used to love joining with the crowds and holiday makers in the peak season, especially for the fun atmosphere and nightlife.
And yes, unless I am just passing through for a stop (this happened to us on the way to Salerno to visit my cousin) , I would definitely prefer to spend at least one night there to savour the atmosphere in the evening, plus the daytrippers would be all gone. You would be missing out on the best of Taormina if you don't.
EuropSept2012 - Try and avoid at all costs that you drive into Catania, it is the ultimate nightmare in its centre, my husband many years ago had sworn he would never drive into that city again - it was his worst driving experience in a city centre for sure. It is congested, crowdy and with cars driving in every direction with no attention to driving rules whatsover, and motorbikes crossing in front of you all the time - a bigger nightmare during the day as they make an open air market in the centre. Unless you are a really experienced driver in Sicily (which is already an experience on its own level) I would not dare to venture into Catania. But very close to Catania, there are three small coastal towns that are really really beautiful, one is called Aci, another Aci Castello - sorry I can't remember the third name, but you will find it if you do some research. They are really lovely and have a promenade, and you might be interested in doing a day trip to Catania from there, maybe using public transport.
If it were me, I would be unsure about staying in Palermo, maybe I would stay in a nice nearby coastal town and do a day trip to Palermo from there. Strangely, Messina is not much mentioned on Fodors - I would certainly include it in my visit to Sicily. And I repeat, try to head to the north west at least for a day, it is really really breathtaking scenary.
Yes, it does get way too crowdy in July/August, but I guess that is the case everywhere in many cities in Italy, like in Florence or in coastal towns and resorts like in Rimini,, but also in so many other countries in Europe. That is why nowadays I prefer to take holidays in September or in the Wintertime. But in my younger days, when I was single and used to go on holidays with friends, I used to love joining with the crowds and holiday makers in the peak season, especially for the fun atmosphere and nightlife.
And yes, unless I am just passing through for a stop (this happened to us on the way to Salerno to visit my cousin) , I would definitely prefer to spend at least one night there to savour the atmosphere in the evening, plus the daytrippers would be all gone. You would be missing out on the best of Taormina if you don't.
EuropSept2012 - Try and avoid at all costs that you drive into Catania, it is the ultimate nightmare in its centre, my husband many years ago had sworn he would never drive into that city again - it was his worst driving experience in a city centre for sure. It is congested, crowdy and with cars driving in every direction with no attention to driving rules whatsover, and motorbikes crossing in front of you all the time - a bigger nightmare during the day as they make an open air market in the centre. Unless you are a really experienced driver in Sicily (which is already an experience on its own level) I would not dare to venture into Catania. But very close to Catania, there are three small coastal towns that are really really beautiful, one is called Aci, another Aci Castello - sorry I can't remember the third name, but you will find it if you do some research. They are really lovely and have a promenade, and you might be interested in doing a day trip to Catania from there, maybe using public transport.
If it were me, I would be unsure about staying in Palermo, maybe I would stay in a nice nearby coastal town and do a day trip to Palermo from there. Strangely, Messina is not much mentioned on Fodors - I would certainly include it in my visit to Sicily. And I repeat, try to head to the north west at least for a day, it is really really breathtaking scenary.
Jul 12th, 2012, 10:09 AM
#39
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Thank you Anna and everyone! We will definitely check out Taormina even if we can only do one night. And we will not attempt to drive into Catania! In fact, we are looking into taking a bus from CTA to Taormina. We then need to get to Milazzo from Taormina however, which seems more difficult by public transport. Anyone with any thoughts on that, I would love to hear them! Thank you!!!
Jul 12th, 2012, 10:32 AM
#40
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To get from Taormina to Naxos, you catch the train at the Taormina-Giardini Naxos station and change in Messina; it takes about an hour and a half. Though buses are usually recommended for Sicily, we took the train from Siracusa to Taormina and found it very clean and comfortable.
An alternative is to catch a boat from Messina directly to Salina. Here's the schedule: http://www.usticalines.it/en/dettagl...estinazione=46
Another vote for the Hotel Schuler. And we wished we had more time in Palermo.
An alternative is to catch a boat from Messina directly to Salina. Here's the schedule: http://www.usticalines.it/en/dettagl...estinazione=46
Another vote for the Hotel Schuler. And we wished we had more time in Palermo.
