Bookmarking since justretired just posted their trip report.

We've finally posted the Trip Report, as ahotpoet noted above. Thanks to all who helped us plan this trip - as you can see above, we had a lot of assistance. We carried pages and pages of recommendations from this thread, in paper and in files on my smart phone.

And we didn't miss Monreale.

The Trip Report is at:

http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...tober-2012.cfm