Sicily and Aeolian islands itinerary - need help
Jul 20th, 2010, 05:17 PM
#21
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Your trip is coming together nicely.
You don't HAVE to rent a scooter or car on Salina to take in the island's highlights. There's a bus network that covers the island, cheaply and conveniently. We loved taking the bus--from Malfa we traveled by bus to Pollara, Lingua, Rinella, Santa Marina. The schedule is posted at each official stop (you can board and deboard elsewhere as well), and the bus was on time every day we were there.
We did rent a jeep one day, for about 55 euros, as I recall. A regular car was about 10 euros less, and motorbikes were available too for even less. All were available right at the port in Santa Marina, at a shop just to the left and up the road. I wouldn't recommend renting the golf cart type vehicles--slow, no power going up hills, really dangerous looking. But I guess GAC survived his ride!
In Palermo, we liked Hotel Ambasciatori. Very convenient (easy walking distance) to the train station, which is where the airport bus ends its run. Lovely rooftop terrace, smallish rooms, but nice.
We took the train from Milazzo to Palermo because there is no ferry or hydrofoil between the Aeolis and Palermo in May. The train/boat is easy...but a boat from Palermo would probably be even more convenient.
Finally, I recommend not bringing US dollars to Europe, but using an ATM at the airport or in town to get your euros from your bank. Just check with your bank about the fees--many smaller banks don't charge a fee for international ATM withdrawals; many larger banks do. Exchanging dollars at the currency exchange counters generally gives you a terrible rate.
You don't HAVE to rent a scooter or car on Salina to take in the island's highlights. There's a bus network that covers the island, cheaply and conveniently. We loved taking the bus--from Malfa we traveled by bus to Pollara, Lingua, Rinella, Santa Marina. The schedule is posted at each official stop (you can board and deboard elsewhere as well), and the bus was on time every day we were there.
We did rent a jeep one day, for about 55 euros, as I recall. A regular car was about 10 euros less, and motorbikes were available too for even less. All were available right at the port in Santa Marina, at a shop just to the left and up the road. I wouldn't recommend renting the golf cart type vehicles--slow, no power going up hills, really dangerous looking. But I guess GAC survived his ride!
In Palermo, we liked Hotel Ambasciatori. Very convenient (easy walking distance) to the train station, which is where the airport bus ends its run. Lovely rooftop terrace, smallish rooms, but nice.
We took the train from Milazzo to Palermo because there is no ferry or hydrofoil between the Aeolis and Palermo in May. The train/boat is easy...but a boat from Palermo would probably be even more convenient.
Finally, I recommend not bringing US dollars to Europe, but using an ATM at the airport or in town to get your euros from your bank. Just check with your bank about the fees--many smaller banks don't charge a fee for international ATM withdrawals; many larger banks do. Exchanging dollars at the currency exchange counters generally gives you a terrible rate.
Jul 20th, 2010, 06:49 PM
#22
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1. The most efficient way to get to Lipari from Palermo is via the (summer only) Ustica Lines hydrofoil, provided that you are not prone to sea sickness in case the crossing is rough. Bring dramamine just in case. The cheapest way is to take a regionale train to Milazzo, a bus to the Milazzo Port, then a hydrofoil or ferry to Lipari. This will take longer, in view of the connections, but the train ride is very scenic and worthwhile.
2. When travelling to the Aeolian Islands, you should ALWAYS have a "plan B" in case the maritime connections are reduced or suspended. This might mean having to take the train to Milazzo, then an afternoon hydrofoil or even the late afternoon car ferry to Lipari. On the return, it might mean having to take the morning car ferry from Milazzo to Lipari instead of the hydrofoil. You should always print out the schedules for all the ferry (Siremar) and hydrofoil (Siremar and Ustica Lines) connections for your days of travel. Cancellations are very unpredictable. Because Palermo is much further afield than Milazzo, one would think that the odds of cancellation might be higher out of Palermo.
3. Prestia e Comande airporter bus every 30 minutes. Travel time into Palermo roughly one hour. Stops at: Piazza Castelnuovo, Port, and Central train station. Bus is extremely comfortable and the fare is under 6 Euros.
4. Good hotel near the Port (300 yards): Hotel Joli. Good hotel near the central train station (300 yards): Hotel Ambasciatori. The airporter bus stops close to both properties. The Ambasciatori (on Via Roma near the intersection with Via Divisi) is slightly better situated to the historic center of town. Its rooftop terrace is also something to die for. On the side facing the waterfront, you peer directly over the oldest and most secretive part of town, where the scars from WWII bombings are still evident. On the side facing inland, you can admire five churches (Gesu, La Martorana, Santa Caterina, San Giuseppe dei Teatini and the Cathedral in the distance), and the mountains in the background. I pointed this out to the hotel attendant who accompanied me to my room.
5. I suggest using an ATM.
P.S.: Concerning vehicle rentals on Salina, I agree with aprillilacs, the tandem golf/buggy cart is an abomination. I wanted to push it off the cliff overlooking Pollara!!! Get either a real car, a jeep or a motor scooter. Or simply use the excellent public bus system on Salina to travel between Pollara, Malfa, Rinella, Santa Maria di Salina, and Lingua. I've posted the bus schedules elsewhere on this site. BTW, there is also an excellent bus system on Lipari, although you'll get to see more places if you rent a car (worthwhile for a party of four).
2. When travelling to the Aeolian Islands, you should ALWAYS have a "plan B" in case the maritime connections are reduced or suspended. This might mean having to take the train to Milazzo, then an afternoon hydrofoil or even the late afternoon car ferry to Lipari. On the return, it might mean having to take the morning car ferry from Milazzo to Lipari instead of the hydrofoil. You should always print out the schedules for all the ferry (Siremar) and hydrofoil (Siremar and Ustica Lines) connections for your days of travel. Cancellations are very unpredictable. Because Palermo is much further afield than Milazzo, one would think that the odds of cancellation might be higher out of Palermo.
3. Prestia e Comande airporter bus every 30 minutes. Travel time into Palermo roughly one hour. Stops at: Piazza Castelnuovo, Port, and Central train station. Bus is extremely comfortable and the fare is under 6 Euros.
4. Good hotel near the Port (300 yards): Hotel Joli. Good hotel near the central train station (300 yards): Hotel Ambasciatori. The airporter bus stops close to both properties. The Ambasciatori (on Via Roma near the intersection with Via Divisi) is slightly better situated to the historic center of town. Its rooftop terrace is also something to die for. On the side facing the waterfront, you peer directly over the oldest and most secretive part of town, where the scars from WWII bombings are still evident. On the side facing inland, you can admire five churches (Gesu, La Martorana, Santa Caterina, San Giuseppe dei Teatini and the Cathedral in the distance), and the mountains in the background. I pointed this out to the hotel attendant who accompanied me to my room.
5. I suggest using an ATM.
P.S.: Concerning vehicle rentals on Salina, I agree with aprillilacs, the tandem golf/buggy cart is an abomination. I wanted to push it off the cliff overlooking Pollara!!! Get either a real car, a jeep or a motor scooter. Or simply use the excellent public bus system on Salina to travel between Pollara, Malfa, Rinella, Santa Maria di Salina, and Lingua. I've posted the bus schedules elsewhere on this site. BTW, there is also an excellent bus system on Lipari, although you'll get to see more places if you rent a car (worthwhile for a party of four).
Jul 20th, 2010, 07:50 PM
#23
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I am going to correct myself: you can indeed find a train/hydrofoil combination from Palermo to Lipari (via Milazzo) on Sept. 13 which is both cheaper and just as fast as the direct hydrofoil out of Palermo:
Depart Palermo Centrale 6:08 Regionale train 10.10 Euros
Arrive Milazzo 8:38
(Local bus to Milazzo Port) 1.00 Euro
Depart Milazzo 9:40 Ustica Lines Hydrofoil 15.80 Euros
Arrive Lipari 10.45
CONTRASTED TO:
Depart Palermo 6:55 Ustica Lines Hydrofoil 38.30 Euros
Arrive Lipari 11:30
Think about which you might prefer. Of course, you could also take a later train to Milazzo and a later onward connection to Lipari. If you decided to take the train to Milazzo, you would want a hotel near the station (like the Ambasciatori).
Depart Palermo Centrale 6:08 Regionale train 10.10 Euros
Arrive Milazzo 8:38
(Local bus to Milazzo Port) 1.00 Euro
Depart Milazzo 9:40 Ustica Lines Hydrofoil 15.80 Euros
Arrive Lipari 10.45
CONTRASTED TO:
Depart Palermo 6:55 Ustica Lines Hydrofoil 38.30 Euros
Arrive Lipari 11:30
Think about which you might prefer. Of course, you could also take a later train to Milazzo and a later onward connection to Lipari. If you decided to take the train to Milazzo, you would want a hotel near the station (like the Ambasciatori).
Jul 21st, 2010, 02:51 AM
#24
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GAC,
You are amazing. The Palermo to Milazzo train/bus/hydrofoil to Lipari is perfect, and I like the idea of seeing the countryside between Palermo and Milazzo. I also checked out the Ambasciatori and like what I saw. My next task is to pick hotels for the other nights, and then get to details like where to rent a car in Syracuse... Thanks again for your invaluable help!
Aprillilacs,
Thanks also for your advice! I really do think the trip is coming together nicely now, in large part to everyone's input. I selected Lipari for our base island mostly on your advice. While I think that we'd much prefer Salina for the more "islandly" (is that a word?)/romantic/hamlet feel, it just looked like Lipari is an easier, more convenient base to make boat tour arrangements, with better selection of restaurants... Can I ask you why you suggested Lipari as a base? Thanks again.
You are amazing. The Palermo to Milazzo train/bus/hydrofoil to Lipari is perfect, and I like the idea of seeing the countryside between Palermo and Milazzo. I also checked out the Ambasciatori and like what I saw. My next task is to pick hotels for the other nights, and then get to details like where to rent a car in Syracuse... Thanks again for your invaluable help!
Aprillilacs,
Thanks also for your advice! I really do think the trip is coming together nicely now, in large part to everyone's input. I selected Lipari for our base island mostly on your advice. While I think that we'd much prefer Salina for the more "islandly" (is that a word?)/romantic/hamlet feel, it just looked like Lipari is an easier, more convenient base to make boat tour arrangements, with better selection of restaurants... Can I ask you why you suggested Lipari as a base? Thanks again.
Jul 21st, 2010, 04:29 AM
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vapuaula,
Your summary of why you chose Lipari is exactly why I recommended it for a first-time visit to the Aeolis. It's more lively than the other islands, in a (good) commerce sense, and there's a good choice of restaurants. I wouldn't say that Salina has a more romantic/hamlet feel--for that, Panarea is definitely the island to stay on. But with your plans to use Lipari as a base are perfect, in my opinion. Wish I were there!
Your summary of why you chose Lipari is exactly why I recommended it for a first-time visit to the Aeolis. It's more lively than the other islands, in a (good) commerce sense, and there's a good choice of restaurants. I wouldn't say that Salina has a more romantic/hamlet feel--for that, Panarea is definitely the island to stay on. But with your plans to use Lipari as a base are perfect, in my opinion. Wish I were there!
Jul 21st, 2010, 04:40 AM
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I'm certain that Aprillilacs will respond personally to your last query, but I too have struggled with the question of whether to make Lipari or Salina the "base of operations". Clearly, it's a significant decision, and the two islands have a very different "look and feel". I've stayed on both islands, and find that indeed Lipari is the more practical (albeit less "romantic") choice, particularly if you were considering Malfa, which has no ferry/hydrofoil port and consequently requires a bus or scooter trip to reach Santa Maria for daytrip excursions to the other islands. Here are my reasons for choosing Lipari Town as the "base":
1. Can walk to the hydrofoil/ferry/private boat dock for daytrip excursions
2. Many more hotel selections
3. Many more restaurant/cafe/bar selections
4. Many more shops
5. Has the only real "supermarket" on the Islands
6. Has the significant cultural attractions of the Archeological Museum, prehistoric ruins, and Baroque Cathedral on the Acropolis (with splendid views of the bay)
7. Has the nice white-sand beach of Canneto, five minutes by bus north of town
8. Car/scooter rentals are less expensive (more selection, more competition)
9. Less likely to "get bored" because there is "more to do"
10. Lipari Town is very, very pretty, especially when seen from the top of the ridge travelling west towards Quattrocchi on the bus.
11. More frequent hydrofoil/ferry connections to the other islands (although Santa Maria di Salina is also good and, honesty, very adequate).
12. (A negative): many, many more people and tourists!!!!!
By contrast, Salina is the better choice for those wanting a more restful, quiet, "romantic", "stay put", "laid-back" vacation with fewer daytrip excursions, and better hiking possibilities because there are many fewer cars and vehicles on the roads. But neither Malfa nor Santa Maria are "towns" (merely hamlets), and therefore not as interesting a "base" as Lipari Town.
I find that Salina is perhaps a better choice for a return trip to the Islands, after you've done your daytrip excursions (out of Lipari) and are perhaps seeking a quieter, more sedate vacation.
1. Can walk to the hydrofoil/ferry/private boat dock for daytrip excursions
2. Many more hotel selections
3. Many more restaurant/cafe/bar selections
4. Many more shops
5. Has the only real "supermarket" on the Islands
6. Has the significant cultural attractions of the Archeological Museum, prehistoric ruins, and Baroque Cathedral on the Acropolis (with splendid views of the bay)
7. Has the nice white-sand beach of Canneto, five minutes by bus north of town
8. Car/scooter rentals are less expensive (more selection, more competition)
9. Less likely to "get bored" because there is "more to do"
10. Lipari Town is very, very pretty, especially when seen from the top of the ridge travelling west towards Quattrocchi on the bus.
11. More frequent hydrofoil/ferry connections to the other islands (although Santa Maria di Salina is also good and, honesty, very adequate).
12. (A negative): many, many more people and tourists!!!!!
By contrast, Salina is the better choice for those wanting a more restful, quiet, "romantic", "stay put", "laid-back" vacation with fewer daytrip excursions, and better hiking possibilities because there are many fewer cars and vehicles on the roads. But neither Malfa nor Santa Maria are "towns" (merely hamlets), and therefore not as interesting a "base" as Lipari Town.
I find that Salina is perhaps a better choice for a return trip to the Islands, after you've done your daytrip excursions (out of Lipari) and are perhaps seeking a quieter, more sedate vacation.
Jul 21st, 2010, 05:37 AM
#28
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GAC,
For all the reasons you cited above, picking Lipari as a base for a first time visit to the islands makes sense. I'll wait to see what Aprillilacs replies, but suspect it will somewhat mirror your response. You all are making my trip planning soooo much easier. Thank you, thank you, thank you!
For all the reasons you cited above, picking Lipari as a base for a first time visit to the islands makes sense. I'll wait to see what Aprillilacs replies, but suspect it will somewhat mirror your response. You all are making my trip planning soooo much easier. Thank you, thank you, thank you!
Oct 2nd, 2010, 01:33 PM
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Is there anything worth stopping for between Palermo and Milazzo? Seems a pretty large expanse of coast line (and maybe some nearby inland places?) to skip directly to go to the NE corner of the island and go to the Aeolian Islands.
I have 12 full days in Sicily next June so I was thinking of skipping the Aeolian Islands but GAC seems pretty adamant about not skipping them.
I have 12 full days in Sicily next June so I was thinking of skipping the Aeolian Islands but GAC seems pretty adamant about not skipping them.
Oct 3rd, 2010, 07:53 AM
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You can see Cefalu in a couple of hours as a very easy daytrip out of Palermo. Or, you could stop in Cefalu en-route to Milazzo (for the Aeolian Islands), but you would need to find a place to store your luggage whilst touring the town (perhaps a restaurant for lunch).
If the weather is not good, I would save the Aeolians for another trip.
If the weather is not good, I would save the Aeolians for another trip.
Dec 4th, 2010, 06:05 PM
#37
What an incredible amount of good information. I will refer back to al of this as I get into detailed planning. We also are planning to go in September and i was concerned that boats would still be running good schedules and that restaurants will still be open.
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