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Old Apr 12th, 2016, 06:51 AM
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Sicily-9 days- low key trip

We are a family of 4 with two teenagers (15-boy, 17-girl). We are planning a trip to Sicily for 9 days and are a bit conflicted about what to see and do. Will be flying into Palermo and departing from Catania (most likely). The must-see's on our list include: Palermo, Cefalu, Lipari, Etna, and a small town on the west side of Mt. Etna that my husband's family is from. Our 15 year old would rather hike, bike, and swim than see historical sights/ruins, and my daughter, while interested in the local culture, wants a "beach" vacation. Any suggestions on balancing sightseeing/history/culture with active outdoor activities and relaxing on the beach? On our last trip to Italy, we had spent 6 days in Rome, 3 in Positano, and 1 in Naples and the kids felt that it was too much touring/running around - we saw a lot, but I agree, it was too hectic and busy-definitely not a "vacation". They want to do something more low key. We are definitely more "outdoorsy" than museum people and want to get a feel for the local culture and enjoy good food.

Our first pass at the itinerary had us spending 2 nights in Palermo, 1 in Cefalu, 3 in Lipari, and 3 near Mt. Etna. But the more I think about it, I'm not sure I want to spend more than a day in Palermo. So second pass: 3 nights in Cefalu (day 1-2 in Cefalu recovering from overseas travel, day 3 hire guide/driver to take us to Palermo for the day), 3 nights in Lipari (2 full days exploring the island, light hiking, snorkeling) and 3 nights in Etna (Trip up Mt Etna one day, one day visiting Taormina, ruins, beach or another hike). Any thoughts? Is there somewhere else other than Cefalu? Would you go to Taormina or do something else on the last day in the Mt. Etna area? Any suggestions of hotels/b&b's and tour companies that would pick us up in Cefalu and take us around Palermo? What are the must sees in Palermo if only one day.

Or, would you change the trip completely and visit the other side of Sicily?
Thanks!
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Old Apr 12th, 2016, 08:02 AM
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Who is it in the family who wants to do cultural sightseeing? If the answer is "not any of us very strongly, we just feel we should" -- then I would definitely skip plan 1, and give strong consideration to heading to the other side of Sicily, nearer to the family ancestral home, and focusing on that, and enjoying the seaside there.

It is hard to give advice about Taormina. The "jewel" for most people is the Greek theater, and it is so small and easily seen, your children would have had to have been traumatized very severely from previous sightseeing excursions to object to a 30 minute visit. The biggest downside for many many people regarding Taormina is that it is jammed with tourists -- really really jammed -- and the town is pretty much given over to hokey tourist shops and low-quality eateries.

That said, a lot of kids really don't mind that, and some even like finding their fellow English-speaking country-teens abroad, plus they like cheap souvenir shopping. Depends on who your family is.

But if I were looking for a great beach spot on that side to substitute for Cefalu, then I would go to the TripAdvisor forum for Sicily and consult with the native Sicilian posters who contribute there, in particular "Vagabonda." She can probably help you find just the right spot for your family. She can probably also give you a preview of what your family's ancestral home town is like and whether there are things nearby for your teens to enjoy.

Overall, I would say that people who visit ancestral small towns in Italy are often surprised by how very much they loved the experience, even if they no longer have family there. I would make sure to budget time for that. Even if you arrive and think it's boring, there is always something nearby in Sicily you can go visit, or zip back to the hotel for a swim in the pool or in the sea.
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Old Apr 12th, 2016, 05:32 PM
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Let me start with a bit of truth in advertising: My interests don't mesh very well with those of your family -- viva la difference! That said, because our interests are so different, my comments might actually be of use, sort of like seeing "black" helps see "white."

Palermo is dynamic and energetic and I loved it! So your inclination to stay, instead, in Cefalu might suit your needs best. ;-) No need to hire a driver if you want to visit Palermo -- public transportation should provide a very easy alternative. Whether you decide to hire a guide would, I think, depend on what you want to see. You don't NEED a guide for Palermo; if you have specific interests and / or your time is limited, you might WANT to hire one.

I can't offer a suggestion as to where to stay for your time near Etna, except to say that Taormina might not suit your interests -- the views it offers are stunning, but during the day, it can be shoulder-to-shoulder time with other tourists.

OTOH, if you want to go near the top of Mt. Etna, you might want to be in a place that gives you easy access to an early morning group tour, as getting to the top can require a combination of bus, train, bus again, cablecar, humongous ATV or tank-like thing, etc. -- and all of the transfers are simple for those with a group, and much more complicated for those traveling on their own. (I took an all-day tour of Mt. Etna that started and ended in Taormina, and that was, in fact, my reason for staying in Taormina. I enjoyed the tour very much, even though I generally prefer to visit things on my own. I believe you can also join such tours from Catania....) Also consider a tour that stops at the Gole Alcantara. That would take a bit of walking on stairs, but OMG, it is a striking place to see fractured basalt (which isn't all that common, as I understand it).

Whether you take such a tour or go on your own be prepared very, VERY cold temperatures and strong winds at the top. I brought along several very lightweight layers, earmuffs, silk gloves, and protective eye-wear, and I was envied by all in my group.

As for what to see in Palermo: The cathedral in Monreale, just outside of Palermo, was the absolute highlight of my time in Sicily -- and one of my all-time travel highlights. YMMV. Beyond that, IMO, only you and your family can decide. Your options range from over-the-top Baroque architecture to extraordinary combinations of Norman, Arab and Byzantine design; the boisterous and accessible-to-all spectacle of puppet theater to the refinement of Palermo's Opera House; the sights and smells of walking through Palermo's markets through the opportunities to savor a beverage with a view of a delightful fountain or edifice.

You will have to make some difficult choices, but I'm sure that if you engage the other members of your family in considering and deciding upon your plans, you should have a great trip.

Hope that helps!
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Old Apr 12th, 2016, 06:27 PM
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Hello,
I´m planning a trip to Sicily in September with my fianceé ( 06- 23th September) and would like to know if you could help me with the Itinerary. It would be our first time in Sicily.We like history, diving, beaches outdoor actvities and good food, that's why we have chosen Sicily. We don't want to do the trip always in a hurry and would like to rest in some places like Taormina and Aeolian.
There are so many interesting places to visit in Sicily, so it's is difficult to decide
I´m planning to hire a car.

06 arrival in Catania
07 go to Taormina ( 3 nights)
08 Taormina + Etna + region
09 Taormina + Etna + region
10 Taormina > Val di Noto, Siracusa, Avola ( 2 nights)
11 Val di Noto, Siracusa, Avola
12 Val di Noto, Siracusa, Avola > go to Aeolian islands ( 4 nigths)
13 Aeolian islands
14 Aeolian islands
15 Aeolian islands
16 Aeolian islands > go to Palermo (1 night)
17 Ustica (diving) 2 nights
18 Ustica (diving)
19 Ustica > back to Palermo
20 Palermo + corleone (night in Palermo)
21 Palermo + Mondello + Zingaro
22 Zingaro
23 flight from Palermo to Rome
24 Rome, flight back

I would like some advice regarding car hire, diving in Ustica, time spent in each place( if it´s ok or if it is too hurry), if it is worth going to the southeast (Val di Noto, Siracusa, Avola) or stay more time in Palermo and region.
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Old Apr 12th, 2016, 06:36 PM
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rntrrr It is better if you start your own thread, then you will get answers tailored to your own needs.
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Old Apr 13th, 2016, 04:14 AM
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spent 4 nites in lipari last may - loved it! so easy to get from island to island. diving in the area would be get. renting a 4 wheeler to explore was one of our highlights. if you are not interested in seeing amphitheater, would skip taomina - totally tourist/cruise ship haven. syracusa was perhaps our favorite.
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Old Apr 13th, 2016, 05:35 AM
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freddy1978

stop advertising your website in every posting you make
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Old Apr 13th, 2016, 06:26 AM
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hi rntnrr,

I know that you've rightly been advised to start your own thread, but wouldn't it make more sense to go to Syracuse/Ortygia first, then Taormina and then the islands??
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Old Apr 13th, 2016, 09:16 AM
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joeandkaren,

Selinunte is right by the sea, From it you can see beaches. It might be a way of combining two different activities in one day.

You might be interested in my trip report, minus the medical section, as we had a foreshortened trip of 9 days in Sicily; click on my name to find it.

Here are the pictures from the trip:

https://www.flickr.com/photos/mksfca...7005/show?rb=1
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Old Apr 14th, 2016, 07:39 AM
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Thank you to all who replied. Another question: would you rather go to Palermo or to Syracuse if you had to pick one?
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Old Apr 14th, 2016, 07:40 AM
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Toledodd: where did you stay in Lipari, and would you recommend?
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Old Apr 14th, 2016, 08:47 AM
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For the short time we were there, I found Palermo, as a city, more interesting than Syracuse, But we were staying outside Syracuse, visiting the sights and museum, so had no real sense of the city, whereas we walked around the old part of Palermo (and the newer one to pick up a car).
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Old Apr 14th, 2016, 06:40 PM
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Palermo and Siracusa are so different that I think it would really depend on your interests.

Palermo is dynamic, energetic, and lively. It is filled with architectural gems of various styles, most notably (perhaps) its stunning examples of Norman-Arab-Byzantine work, but also some over-the-top Rococo chapels and a smattering of memorable buildings of various other vintages. Monreale's magnificent cathedral with cloisters, perhaps Sicily's single most awesome site, is basically in a "suburb" of Palermo, just a 1/2 hour or so by an easy bus ride. From Palermo, you could take reasonably easy day trips to Cefalu (another cathedral and beaches), Erice (views), and Segesta (incomplete Greek temple and -- if it's open -- a spectacularly situated Greek theater) and maybe Selinunte (another more extensive set of Greek temples and ruins).

Siracusa -- or more precisely, Ortygia -- is a glorious city with its own masterpieces (though not of the Norman-Arab-Byzantine era) and a much more quiet aura -- at least when I was in Sicily (2007). Siracusa has it's own Greek theater -- with less spectacular views, but with a few other ancient Roman and Greek sites. Siracusa's cathedral, with its Baroque facade, houses an awesome array of columns from ancient times, among other treasures. Syracusa lays claim to a Caravaggio, the only living papyrus in Europe (IIRC), and an ancient ritual Jewish bath. Day trips from Siracusa could include Noto or one or more of the other "Late Baroque Towns of the Val di Noto," Catania, maybe Taormina (which can literally be shoulder-to-shoulder tourists during daytimes), maybe Mt. Etna.

Neither would give you easy access to the stunning mosaics of the Villa Romana del Casale or the awesome Greek temples of Agrigento.

Hope that helps!
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