SEVILLA AND CADIZ PROVINCE Carabiñeros, cuttlefish eggs and the temple of red tuna
Mar 28th, 2019, 09:19 AM
#21
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If I could ever get all my ducks in a row, I would move to Ruzafa in a heartbeat. Valencia in general is very budget-friendly compared to other cities.
We spent 5 days in Seville and I had planned for a few meals. Then I walked into the market under Las Setas and walked away with a ton of stuff to cook in the Airbnb kitchen. It was awesome.
We spent 5 days in Seville and I had planned for a few meals. Then I walked into the market under Las Setas and walked away with a ton of stuff to cook in the Airbnb kitchen. It was awesome.
Mar 29th, 2019, 03:44 AM
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The odd thing ab out that Valencia apartment is this: I looked up the guy online, as I remembered his name. His only listing (with photo so I know it is him) is in a town outside Valencia, a port that begins with "S" So did he not complete the place he bought in Ruzafa? I wonder if the Dad ever came over.
PETIT CORNER would be fine for a tapas dinner. But I would want to have seats at the bar, so would get there at opening time or prepare to wait. It IS a different menu than COMITE, but there were plenty of options for a meal.
PETIT CORNER would be fine for a tapas dinner. But I would want to have seats at the bar, so would get there at opening time or prepare to wait. It IS a different menu than COMITE, but there were plenty of options for a meal.
Mar 29th, 2019, 10:35 AM
#23
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In my aimless wandering around, I found a great shop at #31, Calle San Eloy: ALACENA SAN ELOY.
This place specializes in jamónes, and they offer a multitude of types and origins from Salamanca, Huelva, Trevelez, Extremadura, and all of the other ham producing cities and regions of the country.
Since my run-in with the sniffy beagle a few years ago, I do not bring any meats back home with me, but if you have an apartment, or if you want to consume while in Spain, or if you hail from a country with less stringent regulations on import, this would make a good stop. They also sell various local food products including wines, and they give samples before your purchase. I'd think this was an essential stop for people interested in Spanish pork products.
There is also a bar/restaurant a few steps away on the same street:
Jamones y Paletas Ibéricas archivos -
This place specializes in jamónes, and they offer a multitude of types and origins from Salamanca, Huelva, Trevelez, Extremadura, and all of the other ham producing cities and regions of the country.
Since my run-in with the sniffy beagle a few years ago, I do not bring any meats back home with me, but if you have an apartment, or if you want to consume while in Spain, or if you hail from a country with less stringent regulations on import, this would make a good stop. They also sell various local food products including wines, and they give samples before your purchase. I'd think this was an essential stop for people interested in Spanish pork products.
There is also a bar/restaurant a few steps away on the same street:
Jamones y Paletas Ibéricas archivos -
Apr 6th, 2019, 10:13 AM
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PURA TASCA in TRIANA
For dinner on the Friday night of my stay, I had company, as my friend from Paris had returned to Sevilla after a visit to Vejer, where my sister was ensconced in a lovely rural hotel (which I visited from Cadiz the following week).
I had excellent memories of two dinners at PURA TASCA from my last visit not long after it had made its debut, and had heard that this tiny restaurant tucked away in a residential area of Triana was still good, even though it was more “discovered” by tourists than when we first tried it about 6 years prior., and it’s now listed in the Michelin guide.
This trip, by the way, was about my fifth or sixth to the city, spaced out over several decades and I can say with some confidence that the city has become one of the best eating meccas in Spain. (I’ve been around a bit but there are vast tracts of the country, of course, that I have not explored, so who knows if critics would agree with me but I do think that’s true)
I met my friend at the Puente de Triana and we embarked on a fairly quick walk to the restaurant. It’s very small, as I mentioned, and reservations are required to book a table. There is a small bar. I’d characterize the food as somewhat inventive, using good quality ingredients with not too much fuss. The kind of place I like! You can keep the gold foil and the foam, for day to day eating, the fantastic local produce in this part of Spain needs very little manipulation to make it sing.
And sing it did; this is what we ordered (unfortunately, beer spilled on my invoice so I might be fuzzy on some details but this is the gist of the dinner):
Cold hearts of artichokes with a fantabulous sauce (details are lost). A must, if this is on the menu and you like artichokes. (I think artichokes are an essential order if they are on the menu, anywhere and any time) 8.50euro
A platter of Cantabrian artichokes..served unadorned. 7.50 euro
The legendary Arroz Meloso of PuraTasca, similar to risotto, with mushrooms. Same as we had, and remembered, from years before. Creamy, unctuous, you supply the adjective….worth the walk from……..Carmona??? Ok, from anywhere in Sevilla! 8.50 euro. If you do not know the great rice dishes of Spain, you are missing an integral part of a visit to the country!
Finally, the steak, solomillo which is translated online as beef sirloin but it is not like the same cut in the US. this was good but the fat was less charred than I would have liked. If you love steak, have it at Azotea or another place; this one was really good but not earth shatteringly good. But at 13.50, it fed two of us.
Together with 2 glasses of wine and 3 beers, plus cover, the bill came to a most reasonable 48.90 euro. The welcome is warm, the food is good, the crowd was mostly Spanish. I will keep this “gastrotasca” on my list for next year!!
Documento sin título
We got hopelessly lost on the way back to our hotels, so lost that the walk took over an hour, But as usual, there was no reason for fear as the streets seemed a hundred percent safe even after 1am, and the view from the bridge over the river and the city was glorious. Oh how I love Sevilla!!
For dinner on the Friday night of my stay, I had company, as my friend from Paris had returned to Sevilla after a visit to Vejer, where my sister was ensconced in a lovely rural hotel (which I visited from Cadiz the following week).
I had excellent memories of two dinners at PURA TASCA from my last visit not long after it had made its debut, and had heard that this tiny restaurant tucked away in a residential area of Triana was still good, even though it was more “discovered” by tourists than when we first tried it about 6 years prior., and it’s now listed in the Michelin guide.
This trip, by the way, was about my fifth or sixth to the city, spaced out over several decades and I can say with some confidence that the city has become one of the best eating meccas in Spain. (I’ve been around a bit but there are vast tracts of the country, of course, that I have not explored, so who knows if critics would agree with me but I do think that’s true)
I met my friend at the Puente de Triana and we embarked on a fairly quick walk to the restaurant. It’s very small, as I mentioned, and reservations are required to book a table. There is a small bar. I’d characterize the food as somewhat inventive, using good quality ingredients with not too much fuss. The kind of place I like! You can keep the gold foil and the foam, for day to day eating, the fantastic local produce in this part of Spain needs very little manipulation to make it sing.
And sing it did; this is what we ordered (unfortunately, beer spilled on my invoice so I might be fuzzy on some details but this is the gist of the dinner):
Cold hearts of artichokes with a fantabulous sauce (details are lost). A must, if this is on the menu and you like artichokes. (I think artichokes are an essential order if they are on the menu, anywhere and any time) 8.50euro
A platter of Cantabrian artichokes..served unadorned. 7.50 euro
The legendary Arroz Meloso of PuraTasca, similar to risotto, with mushrooms. Same as we had, and remembered, from years before. Creamy, unctuous, you supply the adjective….worth the walk from……..Carmona??? Ok, from anywhere in Sevilla! 8.50 euro. If you do not know the great rice dishes of Spain, you are missing an integral part of a visit to the country!
Finally, the steak, solomillo which is translated online as beef sirloin but it is not like the same cut in the US. this was good but the fat was less charred than I would have liked. If you love steak, have it at Azotea or another place; this one was really good but not earth shatteringly good. But at 13.50, it fed two of us.
Together with 2 glasses of wine and 3 beers, plus cover, the bill came to a most reasonable 48.90 euro. The welcome is warm, the food is good, the crowd was mostly Spanish. I will keep this “gastrotasca” on my list for next year!!
Documento sin título
We got hopelessly lost on the way back to our hotels, so lost that the walk took over an hour, But as usual, there was no reason for fear as the streets seemed a hundred percent safe even after 1am, and the view from the bridge over the river and the city was glorious. Oh how I love Sevilla!!
Last edited by ekscrunchy; Apr 6th, 2019 at 10:17 AM.
Apr 7th, 2019, 07:07 AM
#25
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I’m suspicious of house hunters and if the people really live in these houses. I have read that the house has already been purchased most of the time-the other properties are just for show. But I do love HH international. Thanks for the response about Petit Corner. Right now I feel like we should just go to Azotea all three nights we are in Sevilla based on your raves! Did you only eat at one location? I know they have more than one place in Sevilla.
Apr 7th, 2019, 07:56 AM
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They have three restaurants and one bar in the city. I ate all my meals at the location on Conde de Barajas because I liked the staff there, and the owner was often there, too. But the one on Calle Zaragoza is closer to the center. Opening hours are slightly different for all three.
The third is one I did not go to, because it is on a very touristy street in Santa Cruz. I'm sure it is fine, though, and they were very nice to me when I walked over and asked a few questions.
I did eat my last dinner at AZOTEA...I'll write that one, down soon.
I read the same thing about HH, and HHI. What amazes me is how many people, even with families, can just pick up and go off to live in another country. How do they get residency permits, for one thing???
The third is one I did not go to, because it is on a very touristy street in Santa Cruz. I'm sure it is fine, though, and they were very nice to me when I walked over and asked a few questions.
I did eat my last dinner at AZOTEA...I'll write that one, down soon.
I read the same thing about HH, and HHI. What amazes me is how many people, even with families, can just pick up and go off to live in another country. How do they get residency permits, for one thing???
May 9th, 2019, 08:00 AM
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We’re off to Granada and Sevilla this Saturday. I’ve got Azotea, Bar Eslava and possibly Bodeguita Antonio Romero or Petit Corner slotted in for dinners in Sevilla and haven’t done any research for Granada yet. Any suggestions? We’re also in Madrid for one night staying at the Only You Hotel Atocha. We will probably not get to the hotel until 8 or 8:30pm after a long flight from LAX to Paris to Madrid so need something very close by or maybe eat at the hotel. I’ve saved big chunks of this thread in my notes so thank you for writing it all down and Maribel’s contribution!
May 10th, 2019, 12:49 AM
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MacDog, I am in Tokyo now so difficult to recall...my sister loved a Maribel recommendation named MANDUCA DE AZAGRA. Do not think that is too far. Otherwise, for very casual, maybe EL BRILLANTE (??) More of a cafeteria than a restaurant but I thought their squid sandwich was superb, and it will be quick and not far away..just check the opening hours....
Buen Viaje!!
Buen Viaje!!
May 12th, 2019, 01:58 AM
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if the weather is fine, the cocktail bar at the Only You Atocha is managed by the people of Angelita Madrid (great wine bar near Gran Via). It is in the rooftop, so I think it would be a good option for a last night in Madrid
11.01.2019_angelita_bar.pdf
And if you don´t mind moving further from Atocha ( to me, El Brillante is a trap, there are better places to have bocata de calamares, the place is packed, the squids are prefried and you might even get them cold, and better not say anything to the waiters) and getting a cab, two options, and both of them you can either eat at the bar or book a table :
- La Bienaparecida, Jorge Juan. Exquisite service, don´t miss the artichokes, the rabas (fried squid in the way of Santander and the Basque Country) or the cheesecake
Inicio - Restaurante La Bien Aparecida, del Cielo a Madrid
You can always eat at a small bar they have where you don´t need to book and you can order half dishes if you want to test a few of their dishes
- Arima Basque Gastronomy, further up in Ponzano. I took Marigross last year there, we didn´t book and we were lucky. They only have 6 tables, so if you haven´t booked and it´s full, check with Nagore once you are there and she will tell you if it is possible to get a late table... or grab a place at the bar and order first the Gilda Joxefa carrilleras (pork chop), leeks, artichokes ... and the gateau basque. They have a fantastic cheese from Anglet, in the french basque country, unmissable
https://arimabasquegastronomy.com/
Well, I am salivating, I am going to ask my friends if we can go to Arima and have the sunday vermouth there today ...
Good luck, Cova
11.01.2019_angelita_bar.pdf
And if you don´t mind moving further from Atocha ( to me, El Brillante is a trap, there are better places to have bocata de calamares, the place is packed, the squids are prefried and you might even get them cold, and better not say anything to the waiters) and getting a cab, two options, and both of them you can either eat at the bar or book a table :
- La Bienaparecida, Jorge Juan. Exquisite service, don´t miss the artichokes, the rabas (fried squid in the way of Santander and the Basque Country) or the cheesecake
Inicio - Restaurante La Bien Aparecida, del Cielo a Madrid
You can always eat at a small bar they have where you don´t need to book and you can order half dishes if you want to test a few of their dishes
- Arima Basque Gastronomy, further up in Ponzano. I took Marigross last year there, we didn´t book and we were lucky. They only have 6 tables, so if you haven´t booked and it´s full, check with Nagore once you are there and she will tell you if it is possible to get a late table... or grab a place at the bar and order first the Gilda Joxefa carrilleras (pork chop), leeks, artichokes ... and the gateau basque. They have a fantastic cheese from Anglet, in the french basque country, unmissable
https://arimabasquegastronomy.com/
Well, I am salivating, I am going to ask my friends if we can go to Arima and have the sunday vermouth there today ...
Good luck, Cova
May 13th, 2019, 01:54 AM
#31
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Cova, thanks so much for your reply. We are only in Madrid for one night and we did head to the rooftop bar at the hotel last night and had some great cava (for mother’s day!) and a nice selection of tapas to help us get over some serious jet lag after a marathon travel saga of Santa Barbara to LAX to Paris to Madrid. Now off to Granada and Sevilla!
May 16th, 2019, 04:07 PM
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Brava! Another tour de force, a delightfully detailed, extremely helpful food-focused trip report from Ekscrunchita! I've enjoyed reading every morsel, both here and on Chowhound! I hope you're enjoying your Japan journey!
I agree that late February/early March is a wonderful time to visit Andalucía. We too had surprisingly mild weather in Málaga with sunny skies. We hope to return to the Costa de la Luz/Cádiz/Sherry Triangle during those dates next year and certainly hope (finally) to meet up with you, perhaps in the Vejer environs to enjoy a long lunch on the terrace at the carnivore's mecca, La Castillería or an atún rojo feast at Antonio.
Again, a wonderful report, as always.
Macdog, I hope you're enjoying your time in Granada and Sevilla. Sevilla's tucked away Casa del Poeta is lovely.
I agree that late February/early March is a wonderful time to visit Andalucía. We too had surprisingly mild weather in Málaga with sunny skies. We hope to return to the Costa de la Luz/Cádiz/Sherry Triangle during those dates next year and certainly hope (finally) to meet up with you, perhaps in the Vejer environs to enjoy a long lunch on the terrace at the carnivore's mecca, La Castillería or an atún rojo feast at Antonio.
Again, a wonderful report, as always.
Macdog, I hope you're enjoying your time in Granada and Sevilla. Sevilla's tucked away Casa del Poeta is lovely.
May 17th, 2019, 12:40 AM
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Maribel, we are enjoying Sevilla. A beautiful place and it reminds us a little bit of where we live, Santa Barbara. The hotel is lovely and a beautiful spot to sip some cava in the early evening in their stunning courtyard. Our first night here, we walked up to La Azotea and I basically handed my notes from this thread to the waiter and said we want this meal (thank you Eks!). So we had the delicious large shrimp with sherry, small clams with artichoke, a larger artichoke dish with sweetbreads in a cheese sauce and then sliced angus beef with tomatoes, peppers and French fries. Needless to say we were stuffed but very happy. We ended up chatting with the owner Juan for awhile, his wife is from California, he lived in San Diego for awhile and my husband and he discovered a mutual love of surfing. Really delicious meal and I think we may go back to the more casual bar across the street tonight for our last dinner. Next day, after a big breakfast at the hotel we visited Salvador church and also got tickets for the Cathedral. For a very light lunch we went to Torch coffee, a third wave coffee place (very hipster) on the street that runs next to the river. For dinner we walked back up to the same neighborhood and put on our name in at Bar Eslava. We ended up outside on a high table and had a great succession of tapas. The cigar with cuttlefish, razor clams, the egg on mushroom pate, croquettes with delicious side potatoes, artichoke with almonds and salt cod and spare ribs with honey. Sadly they were out of fried sea anemone. Everything was wonderful and I had some very nice Albariño at $3 a glass. We always marvel at how inexpensive wine and beer is in Europe. In the US our wine costs would have been at least triple.
We also had two lovely days in Granada. There we really enjoyed Saint Germain for our first dinner. Pate on bread was the free tapas and then we ordered octopus, squid and a very comforting tomato with melted cheese dish. Our second night we walked over from our small but lovely hotel, Santa Isabel la Real, and had dinner with views of the Alhambra at Mirador de Morayma. Maribel, I saw your recommendation on a chow hound thread and it was perfect after a long day of walking and down hills and around the Alhambra. Really lovely week and now off to Paris on Saturday. Thanks so much for this thread!
We also had two lovely days in Granada. There we really enjoyed Saint Germain for our first dinner. Pate on bread was the free tapas and then we ordered octopus, squid and a very comforting tomato with melted cheese dish. Our second night we walked over from our small but lovely hotel, Santa Isabel la Real, and had dinner with views of the Alhambra at Mirador de Morayma. Maribel, I saw your recommendation on a chow hound thread and it was perfect after a long day of walking and down hills and around the Alhambra. Really lovely week and now off to Paris on Saturday. Thanks so much for this thread!
May 17th, 2019, 10:28 AM
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Hi macdog,
Very nice report!
I'm glad you're enjoying your time in Sevilla and the beautiful courtyard at Casa del Poeta. And La Azotea and Eslava are two of the "musts" in my Sevilla book! You did really well at both.
This last time I was in Granada I was meaning to have tapas at Saint Germain one evening but ran out of time, so thanks to you, I've now put it on my "to do" list.
Very nice report!
I'm glad you're enjoying your time in Sevilla and the beautiful courtyard at Casa del Poeta. And La Azotea and Eslava are two of the "musts" in my Sevilla book! You did really well at both.
This last time I was in Granada I was meaning to have tapas at Saint Germain one evening but ran out of time, so thanks to you, I've now put it on my "to do" list.
May 18th, 2019, 07:02 AM
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Just to wrap up, we had a delicious last dinner at Petit Corner after a lovely afternoon at the Alcazar, perhaps my favorite over the Alhambra. We got there at 8 and got a table that had to be vacated by 9:45. Started with a tuna tartare because I realized we hadn’t had tuna yet and I knew the region is well known for its tuna. It was very flavorable and a nice change of pace. We continued with crougettes, artichoke with Ibérico ham, a duck and foie served on toast and one of my favorite dishes anywhere ever, octopus with “silky” potatoes, truffle oil and an egg. Just a delicious flavor bomb. Highly recommend. We had 3 wonderful dinners in Sevilla. Paris has a lot to live up to!
May 18th, 2019, 10:28 AM
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Hi macdogmom,
Thanks for your latest review of Petit Corner--sounds like a delicious meal! The mothership next door, Petit Comité, we always include in our Sevilla dining list, since we find it always consistent, like La Azotea, prices quite reasonable for the high quality and it has a cozy bistrot feel. That octopus is one of their star dishes. We hadn't seen its addition, Petit Corner, so on our last visit our waiter gave us a tour of the space and the private dining room for a small group. So glad you liked it!
Thanks for your latest review of Petit Corner--sounds like a delicious meal! The mothership next door, Petit Comité, we always include in our Sevilla dining list, since we find it always consistent, like La Azotea, prices quite reasonable for the high quality and it has a cozy bistrot feel. That octopus is one of their star dishes. We hadn't seen its addition, Petit Corner, so on our last visit our waiter gave us a tour of the space and the private dining room for a small group. So glad you liked it!
May 18th, 2019, 12:50 PM
#37
So nice to see you here, Maribel, you were one of the first regulars I became aware of when I joined fodors and i learnt so much from your posts and from your incomparable guides. so thank you!
Thank you too Eck for your detailed TR - I love your food descriptions. Before I went to the Valencia GTG this year it had been a while since I'd been to Spain [about 5 years ago, when Bill and I spent a few nights there also in Valencia] and i was really struck about how "modern" the food is, compared to Italy [the north anyway] which seems to be stuck in a bit of a time warp. It's even longer since we went to Seville but you've definitely put in on my radar. I was also struck by how reasonable the prices are in Spain compared to Italy which is another bonus.
looking forward to more!
Thank you too Eck for your detailed TR - I love your food descriptions. Before I went to the Valencia GTG this year it had been a while since I'd been to Spain [about 5 years ago, when Bill and I spent a few nights there also in Valencia] and i was really struck about how "modern" the food is, compared to Italy [the north anyway] which seems to be stuck in a bit of a time warp. It's even longer since we went to Seville but you've definitely put in on my radar. I was also struck by how reasonable the prices are in Spain compared to Italy which is another bonus.
looking forward to more!
May 18th, 2019, 02:50 PM
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Hi annhig,
Such a nice note from one of the very loveliest ladies that I only know only in Fodor World but unfortunately not IRL! Because of poor planning, we missed the Valencia GTG--we were 10 days too early!
Eks,
I just watched an El Comidista video interview with that (very) handsome Juanlu of Cañabota. He was asked where he would go in Sevilla to eat well for under 20 euros. His answer: Bodeguita de Romero. His new La Barra de Cañabota is now up and running, and Azahar loved her visit. Juanlu is hosting at both, moving back and forth, and Azahar gave it her top rating, 5 oranges. One for us both to try next time, since it's meant to be a classic "tapeo típico sevillano" place!
Such a nice note from one of the very loveliest ladies that I only know only in Fodor World but unfortunately not IRL! Because of poor planning, we missed the Valencia GTG--we were 10 days too early!
Eks,
I just watched an El Comidista video interview with that (very) handsome Juanlu of Cañabota. He was asked where he would go in Sevilla to eat well for under 20 euros. His answer: Bodeguita de Romero. His new La Barra de Cañabota is now up and running, and Azahar loved her visit. Juanlu is hosting at both, moving back and forth, and Azahar gave it her top rating, 5 oranges. One for us both to try next time, since it's meant to be a classic "tapeo típico sevillano" place!
