SEVILLA AND CADIZ PROVINCE Carabiñeros, cuttlefish eggs and the temple of red tuna
Jun 10th, 2019, 12:55 PM
#42
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Hi ekscrunchita,
Yes, next March! Seafood tapas at La Barra de Cañabota, atún rojo feast at Antonio, Retinto steak at La Castillería, tortillitas de camarones at Casa Balbino and much, much more!
Yes, next March! Seafood tapas at La Barra de Cañabota, atún rojo feast at Antonio, Retinto steak at La Castillería, tortillitas de camarones at Casa Balbino and much, much more!
Jun 11th, 2019, 04:27 AM
#43
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Maribelita:
When you know your dates, and if you would like to meet up for a meal, let me know. I'd love to dine with you at any of those places. Will leave home (Miami) early March, I think, to make sure La Castillería is open (do you have opening date for 2020?)
My big decisionn will be to begin with a few days in Sevilla, or in Madrid. And of course, looks like renting a car it must be, so base in Vejar town or Casa de la Siesta outside. Former easier for eating in Vejer itself, LA Siesta for exploring the coast. Maybe include a couple of days at Bar Anotnio's hotel but read varying options of that accommodation. Thinking of taking about two weeks this time, again solo.
When you know your dates, and if you would like to meet up for a meal, let me know. I'd love to dine with you at any of those places. Will leave home (Miami) early March, I think, to make sure La Castillería is open (do you have opening date for 2020?)
My big decisionn will be to begin with a few days in Sevilla, or in Madrid. And of course, looks like renting a car it must be, so base in Vejar town or Casa de la Siesta outside. Former easier for eating in Vejer itself, LA Siesta for exploring the coast. Maybe include a couple of days at Bar Anotnio's hotel but read varying options of that accommodation. Thinking of taking about two weeks this time, again solo.
Jun 11th, 2019, 09:25 AM
#44
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Hi eks,
We both would love to meet up for a meal! I'm thinking early March as well.
I'm keeping an eye on the "some time soon" opening of the Califa's six room boutique Plaza 18 in Vejer but so far it hasn't opened its doors.
I don't have an opening date for La Castillería yet for 2020 but this spring it did open Friday, March 1. I follow them on Twitter (like a hawk-I don't want to miss it this time!).
We both would love to meet up for a meal! I'm thinking early March as well.
I'm keeping an eye on the "some time soon" opening of the Califa's six room boutique Plaza 18 in Vejer but so far it hasn't opened its doors.
I don't have an opening date for La Castillería yet for 2020 but this spring it did open Friday, March 1. I follow them on Twitter (like a hawk-I don't want to miss it this time!).
Jun 18th, 2023, 11:25 PM
#46
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Perfect timing EKS! I am just moving our September trip to December so our adult kids can join us for part. My husband and I are spending 2 weeks in Seville and this report is very helpful.
A couple of questions:
My 23-year old is moving from LA to NYC soon so will be flying fromJFK to Spain. Do you still use the car service you took for this trip? I would love a recommendation for her.
Also, I am still figuring out if we will fly into Madrid then connect to Sevilla or Granada first. I was considering the train but took not that you flew. The connection times for either trains or flights aren’t great. Have you taken the train from Madrid to Andalusia?
Since I have to rebook an apartment for December, it sounds like you highly recommend the neighborhood you stayed in Sevilla. We will want to see all of the sights as we have never been to Sevilla. Is your neighborhood a good location for sightseeing?
Last, I think we will train to Madrid on Christmas Day as our kids will arrive on 12/26 for a week in the city! What’s your thoughts on Sevilla vs Granada for Christmas Eve then trains to Madrid on Christmas Day? They both sound lovely for Christmas but I am a bit concerned about the reduced train schedule from Granada to Madrid on Christmas Day.
A couple of questions:
My 23-year old is moving from LA to NYC soon so will be flying fromJFK to Spain. Do you still use the car service you took for this trip? I would love a recommendation for her.
Also, I am still figuring out if we will fly into Madrid then connect to Sevilla or Granada first. I was considering the train but took not that you flew. The connection times for either trains or flights aren’t great. Have you taken the train from Madrid to Andalusia?
Since I have to rebook an apartment for December, it sounds like you highly recommend the neighborhood you stayed in Sevilla. We will want to see all of the sights as we have never been to Sevilla. Is your neighborhood a good location for sightseeing?
Last, I think we will train to Madrid on Christmas Day as our kids will arrive on 12/26 for a week in the city! What’s your thoughts on Sevilla vs Granada for Christmas Eve then trains to Madrid on Christmas Day? They both sound lovely for Christmas but I am a bit concerned about the reduced train schedule from Granada to Madrid on Christmas Day.
Jun 21st, 2023, 11:41 AM
#47
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Irice: I hoe I answer all your questions cause sometimes I cannot see the original question when I click the "submet reply" button. So if I forgot to answer, just let me know and I will come back here.
I've taken the train to Granada from Madrid, but that was after spending time in Madrid. I would not like to have to take an overnight fllights, then taxi or bus to Atocha, then get on a long train ride south. The train was great, but for me it is best to stay in Madrid at the end of the trip. So I almost always fly from JFK with connection in MAD and then flight to Jerez (did that last March), or Sevilla, Granada, Malaga, etc.
From Manhattan to JFK we used to always use yellow taxis but now have gone back to Carmel. They are very well respected and popular in NYC for airport trips. They often have coupons on their site and have always accepted those. I think the taxi fare is about the same as the tariff charged by Carmel..(there is a set rate FROM JFK to Manhattan, but not vice versa, I don't think...you're looking at close to $70 either way, with tip. Depending on where your daughter will live, you can instruct driver to take the 59th Street Bridge, which has no tolls; we live just south of there so it's simple for us to do that..again, depends of her departure point and if she even will live in Manhattan or elsewhere in NYC. If using Carmel, make sure to book at least 2 days ahead..on our recent trip they were booked for our desired departure time and we had to go to the airport earlier than we preferred. BTW: I never leave more than 2 hours at JFK, although others might disagree. Just bbe sure to have the terminal number ready for the driver.
In Seville, there are several good areas to stay. One area that I do NOT like for a hotel is the Barrio de Santa Cruz..it is just too filled with tourists for me although others disagree and love it for the centrality and the architecture. I used to stay there, many years ago, but with so many more people traveling nowadays, Ii would stay away. You can look at El Arenal area, and other areas but I'm not sure i know the names of many of the barrios. I would like the area near the big Corte Ingles store, as yo can walk from there to some great eating places to the north, and to sights to the south. Last time I was there I stayed at the Hotel Mercer, on Calle de Castelar. The area was perfect, quiet but near to most sights. I'm not sure I've ever taken a taxi within the city, only to and from airport or train station. It's small enough to walk everywhere. One area that might be a little further out would be the area near the Plaza Espana/Alfonso XIII hotel (i've not stayed there but my sister loved it and said they walked everywhere) Once we rented an apartment near the Puerta de Jerez and that was great as well.
You probably would not want to stay across the river in Triana..probably best for someone who knows the city well. It's nice there but might be a little far to walk to some places.. Again, I would avoid staying in Sta Cruz but I'd bet that some people will disagree with me on that.
I don't know much about the Christmas holidays in Spain but I'd bet that would be a wonderful time to be there, just about anyplace in the country!
Remember, if I forgot to answer a question, just get back to me here..
I've taken the train to Granada from Madrid, but that was after spending time in Madrid. I would not like to have to take an overnight fllights, then taxi or bus to Atocha, then get on a long train ride south. The train was great, but for me it is best to stay in Madrid at the end of the trip. So I almost always fly from JFK with connection in MAD and then flight to Jerez (did that last March), or Sevilla, Granada, Malaga, etc.
From Manhattan to JFK we used to always use yellow taxis but now have gone back to Carmel. They are very well respected and popular in NYC for airport trips. They often have coupons on their site and have always accepted those. I think the taxi fare is about the same as the tariff charged by Carmel..(there is a set rate FROM JFK to Manhattan, but not vice versa, I don't think...you're looking at close to $70 either way, with tip. Depending on where your daughter will live, you can instruct driver to take the 59th Street Bridge, which has no tolls; we live just south of there so it's simple for us to do that..again, depends of her departure point and if she even will live in Manhattan or elsewhere in NYC. If using Carmel, make sure to book at least 2 days ahead..on our recent trip they were booked for our desired departure time and we had to go to the airport earlier than we preferred. BTW: I never leave more than 2 hours at JFK, although others might disagree. Just bbe sure to have the terminal number ready for the driver.
In Seville, there are several good areas to stay. One area that I do NOT like for a hotel is the Barrio de Santa Cruz..it is just too filled with tourists for me although others disagree and love it for the centrality and the architecture. I used to stay there, many years ago, but with so many more people traveling nowadays, Ii would stay away. You can look at El Arenal area, and other areas but I'm not sure i know the names of many of the barrios. I would like the area near the big Corte Ingles store, as yo can walk from there to some great eating places to the north, and to sights to the south. Last time I was there I stayed at the Hotel Mercer, on Calle de Castelar. The area was perfect, quiet but near to most sights. I'm not sure I've ever taken a taxi within the city, only to and from airport or train station. It's small enough to walk everywhere. One area that might be a little further out would be the area near the Plaza Espana/Alfonso XIII hotel (i've not stayed there but my sister loved it and said they walked everywhere) Once we rented an apartment near the Puerta de Jerez and that was great as well.
You probably would not want to stay across the river in Triana..probably best for someone who knows the city well. It's nice there but might be a little far to walk to some places.. Again, I would avoid staying in Sta Cruz but I'd bet that some people will disagree with me on that.
I don't know much about the Christmas holidays in Spain but I'd bet that would be a wonderful time to be there, just about anyplace in the country!
Remember, if I forgot to answer a question, just get back to me here..
Jun 23rd, 2023, 09:28 AM
#49
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That street is a very good central location
EWR from Kips Bay: NO!!!
Expensive and terrible traffic especially in Lincoln Tunnel
AND you will have to pay the very expensive tunnel toll on top of fare and tip. I flew out of there twice and it is a nightmare. JFK OR LGA only from midtown east. I live just to the NE in the 50s. I would rather catch a flight from Phiily than go to EWR!!
Jun 23rd, 2023, 08:36 PM
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Thanks for the tip about EWR! I have her booked out of JFK to Sevilla for Christmas. 
The other apartment I found is charming but up against the wall and garden of the Alcazar. Makes me nervous about Christmas crowds.
The other apartment I found is charming but up against the wall and garden of the Alcazar. Makes me nervous about Christmas crowds.
Apr 7th, 2024, 07:55 AM
#52
Topping to ask for hotel recommendations in Cadiz. We will be in Seville with a few nights in Cadiz this May and while we have booked an apartment in Seville, we are just now getting around to planning the Cadiz portion of the trip. Thanks for any suggestions and the wonderful trip report.
Apr 7th, 2024, 08:11 AM
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if your budget allows in May, I would say the Parador, whose large rooms overlook the La Caleta beach and the Atlantic.
Alternatively, there's the boutique 4-star Casa Cánovas, housed in a very attractive noble home. on one of the city's more attractive streets and with a gourmet restaurant.
I've seen both and could happily stay at either.
Or the Aurea Palacio Sagasta, the top tier of the Eurostars group, housed in an 18th century Baroque palace, with an indoor spa pool.
If you're looking for a 3-star suite hotel, the Plaza Mina Suites get great reviews.
There's also the brand new adults only Olom, which I haven't seen, sitting on the cathedral square, which is a very busy square. It has a rooftop plunge pool that may or may not be open in May.
Just an update for ekscrunchy for her Sevilla dining:
The ABACERÍA DE SAN LORENZO that we both loved, has changed hands! The owner, Don Ramón López de Tejada, was forced to give it up because the city council demanded that he make changes to the building's inside structure, upper floors, that he just couldn't accomplish. It languished empty for a while, then another restauranteur took it over, keeping the name and supposedly keeping some of Don Ramón' special recipes but only using the ground floor. But...my spy (you know who), who dined there recently, says it's just not the same.
But good news!!....Don Ramón has been personally chosen by the Becerra family as the perfect restaurant owner to take over the enviable real estate of the now closed and once highly regarded ENRIQUE BECERRA, in the heart of the Arenal quarter. It may open sometime this fall and Don Ramón plans to call it EXCUSA PERFECTA.
We visited him this past Easter Sunday at his new casual café, GRAN CAFÉ DE ESPAÑA, a small, informal space serving breakfasts, almuerzos, lunch, meriendas and dinner. We were with our "spy" for a pre-lunch aperitivo of jamón de bellota, which Don Ramón sliced for us, and a glass of Pastrana manzanilla.
So Don Ramón is still actively engaged in the restaurant business, and I look forward to trying his EXCUSA PERFECTA on my next trip.
And.. the young couple who were the head chefs of the MERCER, Patri and Rafa, now have left and have opened their own space, BARRA BAJA, which we enjoyed enormously for my husband's birthday lunch (yes, with you-know-who).
She made reservations for us for 3 of the only 8 comfortable chairs at the "barra baja", the counter overlooking the open kitchen, so that we could enjoy watching Patri and Rafa prepare their wonderful dishes.
In addition to being head chefs at the Mercer, they've also been in London, at The Heart in Ibiza, an Adriá production, and with the Torres Brothers at Dos Cielos and Rafa Zafra's Estimar, a very notable resumé.
We enjoyed crudo de borriquete (a complimentary dish), 2 wonderful Brittany Guillardeau oysters, one smoked with sherry butter and the other with cucumber and dill vinaigrette, braised lettuce hearts smothered in Payoyo cheese (heavenly), steak tartar of retinto beef inside beef marrow adorned with regañás, an abanico (fan) of pork loin with a potato purée, and for dessert, a caramelized torrija (pain perdu or French toast) with orange sorbet (since it was Holy Week), plus Raventós Basagoiti cava to begin, a bottle of Urogallo Lías godello with the meal, and complimentary Palo Cortado to accompany the dessert. It was a wonderful, celebratory birthday meal.
Perhaps this young couple were at the Mercer during your stay. Their new outpost, Barra Baja, has gone to the near top of my list of great places to dine in Sevilla.
Alternatively, there's the boutique 4-star Casa Cánovas, housed in a very attractive noble home. on one of the city's more attractive streets and with a gourmet restaurant.
I've seen both and could happily stay at either.
Or the Aurea Palacio Sagasta, the top tier of the Eurostars group, housed in an 18th century Baroque palace, with an indoor spa pool.
If you're looking for a 3-star suite hotel, the Plaza Mina Suites get great reviews.
There's also the brand new adults only Olom, which I haven't seen, sitting on the cathedral square, which is a very busy square. It has a rooftop plunge pool that may or may not be open in May.
Just an update for ekscrunchy for her Sevilla dining:
The ABACERÍA DE SAN LORENZO that we both loved, has changed hands! The owner, Don Ramón López de Tejada, was forced to give it up because the city council demanded that he make changes to the building's inside structure, upper floors, that he just couldn't accomplish. It languished empty for a while, then another restauranteur took it over, keeping the name and supposedly keeping some of Don Ramón' special recipes but only using the ground floor. But...my spy (you know who), who dined there recently, says it's just not the same.
But good news!!....Don Ramón has been personally chosen by the Becerra family as the perfect restaurant owner to take over the enviable real estate of the now closed and once highly regarded ENRIQUE BECERRA, in the heart of the Arenal quarter. It may open sometime this fall and Don Ramón plans to call it EXCUSA PERFECTA.
We visited him this past Easter Sunday at his new casual café, GRAN CAFÉ DE ESPAÑA, a small, informal space serving breakfasts, almuerzos, lunch, meriendas and dinner. We were with our "spy" for a pre-lunch aperitivo of jamón de bellota, which Don Ramón sliced for us, and a glass of Pastrana manzanilla.
So Don Ramón is still actively engaged in the restaurant business, and I look forward to trying his EXCUSA PERFECTA on my next trip.
And.. the young couple who were the head chefs of the MERCER, Patri and Rafa, now have left and have opened their own space, BARRA BAJA, which we enjoyed enormously for my husband's birthday lunch (yes, with you-know-who).
She made reservations for us for 3 of the only 8 comfortable chairs at the "barra baja", the counter overlooking the open kitchen, so that we could enjoy watching Patri and Rafa prepare their wonderful dishes.
In addition to being head chefs at the Mercer, they've also been in London, at The Heart in Ibiza, an Adriá production, and with the Torres Brothers at Dos Cielos and Rafa Zafra's Estimar, a very notable resumé.
We enjoyed crudo de borriquete (a complimentary dish), 2 wonderful Brittany Guillardeau oysters, one smoked with sherry butter and the other with cucumber and dill vinaigrette, braised lettuce hearts smothered in Payoyo cheese (heavenly), steak tartar of retinto beef inside beef marrow adorned with regañás, an abanico (fan) of pork loin with a potato purée, and for dessert, a caramelized torrija (pain perdu or French toast) with orange sorbet (since it was Holy Week), plus Raventós Basagoiti cava to begin, a bottle of Urogallo Lías godello with the meal, and complimentary Palo Cortado to accompany the dessert. It was a wonderful, celebratory birthday meal.
Perhaps this young couple were at the Mercer during your stay. Their new outpost, Barra Baja, has gone to the near top of my list of great places to dine in Sevilla.
Last edited by Maribel; Apr 7th, 2024 at 09:11 AM.
Apr 7th, 2024, 09:22 AM
#54
Thanks, Mirabel. That was very helpful. We booked a couple of nights at the Aurea Palacio Sagasta. In Sevilla, our apartment is a small penthouse in the heart of Santa Cruz with a nice terrace and a beautiful view of the Cathedral. I know that it is tourist central but it is our first time in Sevilla so I think that will be okay.
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