September in Venice, Croatia, and Slovenia
Dec 2nd, 2017, 02:48 PM
#21
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Still enjoying your report! You had an amazing trip even though you had some disappointments. Your trip sounds unique with the truffle hunt, visiting Dugi Otok, and the slow boat tour. What fun! Something to talk and laugh about.
It seems you had a lot of rain on this trip. Is that the norm for September?
It seems you had a lot of rain on this trip. Is that the norm for September?
Dec 3rd, 2017, 02:54 PM
#22
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Thanks for sticking with it, Karen. We've learned over many years of travel that there are highs and lows, but that's life, no? From what I understand, this September was unusually rainy--just our luck!
Onward--just a few more days to report on:
Sept. 21-22--Skradin
On entering Skradin in the dark (something we try to avoid), we had a little problem finding our lodging—the GPS took us into the center of the village, a small street with outdoor tables full of people but clearly not the Guest House Ankora. But a friendly restaurant proprietor called our host, who bicycled a couple of blocks to come to our aid and led us to a small parking area in front of the nice-looking inn. Our host was gearing up for the grape harvest the next couple of days and was full of information about what to do and where to eat in the area.
The apartment itself was clean and modern, with a nice living area/kitchen, bathroom, and two comfortable bedrooms. It also had a table and chairs in a small outside garden area. After settling in we walked the short distance to Dalmatico Restaurant for dinner. They were featuring the local dish, slow-cooked beef in red wine with dumplings (gnocchi), which all of us ordered. We also shared a large salad and a liter of local red wine. Complimentary cherry brandy ended a delightful meal (570 kuna = $90 for four).
Our destination the next day was the purpose of being in Skradin: Krka National Park. We walked a few blocks to the port area where we purchased entry tickets (117 kuna each) that included a boat trip up the Krka River to the park entrance. We spent a little time in the local market and then boarded the boat for the 9:30 sailing. The trip took about twenty minutes, and the boat dropped us off near the big waterfall (Stradinski Buk) that fell as a closely spaced series of falls. It was beautiful but not as impressive to us as the big falls at Plitvice. From the base of the falls we climbed uphill to a knoll near the top. There were great views all along this route, and they continued as the trail passed a working mill and then flattened out after we viewed a series of smaller waterfalls. Eventually we crossed a broad, flat area of the river and worked our way back downhill to catch the return boat at 11:30.
Naturally we were comparing this water wonderland with Plitvice, which we had visited earlier. Two things were immediately apparent: (1) the water here was greenish rather than the shades of blue at Plitvice, and (2) there were far more travertine terraces here than at Plitvice. Also, Krka has fewer visitors than Plitvice, which was a relief. J is a geologist so he found both parks fascinating, and we all appreciated their respective features and beauty. Glad we did both!
Back in our apartment, we shared a lunch made from our market supplies and then drove to the northern reaches of the park (same entrance ticket) to see the famous string of travertine terraces called the necklaces, which are separated by small waterfalls. On the way we stopped at Lake Vicovar, where for a fee we took a little boat to an island with a monastery. We spent half an hour walking around the island and in and out of the parts of the monastery that were accessible, including a small museum that focused on the evils of the Serbs during the 1990s war. We enjoyed seeing an old wagon wheel that was completely encrusted in travertine. There were very few people in this part of the park.
Back on shore we drove uphill through some S-curves and then took a right on a road that we had been told would lead to spectacular views of the necklaces from above. It did not, and we eventually gave up after walking a couple of km, encountering scary barking dogs but no views.
Disappointed, we returned to the car and drove to the area of the park where the Krka River flows through the necklaces and over a large waterfall, Roski Slap, with a mill adjacent to it. Initially we walked upstream to explore the necklaces. They were lovely, and we decided to climb up a steep stairway (517 steps) that led to a cave, in hopes of being able to photograph them from above. Three of us made it to the cave, which had been occupied by humans over a 4,000-year period, but I stopped about halfway up the stairs when I was able to get good views of the necklaces below.
After all this climbing, we walked south across the road to get views of the base of Roski Slap. There we spied a restaurant/bar in the old mill complex and decided to have a drink and perhaps a small bite to eat. It quickly turned into more than that. We sat down at a wooden table very close to one of the many water courses in the falls, which had powered the mill. This was a family owned and operated place, and our waiter was the former owner, a frail older man named Christian, who had passed enterprise on to his son but still loved being part of it. We ordered beers and some bread and cheese to nibble on. Christian first brought out the four beers (all at once), then put four large mugs of wine on the table. We were suitably impressed and loved the gleam in his eye. He then began to bring out the food: a huge platter of salami, bacon, prosciutto-style ham, two kinds of cheese, green olives, and plenty of bread. As we began to devour this feast, Christian brought his own beverage to the table, and he and our friend began to converse in German, with moments of broken English shared with the rest of us. He was a great character and very opinionated! At the end, he brought out some schnapps and we toasted to one another’s health. We will all remember that experience with fondness.
It was getting dark when we left the table, fuller and more satisfied than we had expected to be. We managed to get back into town—once again in the dark--having learned how to proceed from our experience the night before. Later in the evening we returned to the Dalmatico for some mushroom soup and a not very successful seafood risotto--we weren't on Dugi Otok anymore! The liter of white wine eased our pain. It had been a really great day, with 20,000 steps and 44 flights, according to our iPhone app.
Next: Split, our final stop in Croatia.
Onward--just a few more days to report on:
Sept. 21-22--Skradin
On entering Skradin in the dark (something we try to avoid), we had a little problem finding our lodging—the GPS took us into the center of the village, a small street with outdoor tables full of people but clearly not the Guest House Ankora. But a friendly restaurant proprietor called our host, who bicycled a couple of blocks to come to our aid and led us to a small parking area in front of the nice-looking inn. Our host was gearing up for the grape harvest the next couple of days and was full of information about what to do and where to eat in the area.
The apartment itself was clean and modern, with a nice living area/kitchen, bathroom, and two comfortable bedrooms. It also had a table and chairs in a small outside garden area. After settling in we walked the short distance to Dalmatico Restaurant for dinner. They were featuring the local dish, slow-cooked beef in red wine with dumplings (gnocchi), which all of us ordered. We also shared a large salad and a liter of local red wine. Complimentary cherry brandy ended a delightful meal (570 kuna = $90 for four).
Our destination the next day was the purpose of being in Skradin: Krka National Park. We walked a few blocks to the port area where we purchased entry tickets (117 kuna each) that included a boat trip up the Krka River to the park entrance. We spent a little time in the local market and then boarded the boat for the 9:30 sailing. The trip took about twenty minutes, and the boat dropped us off near the big waterfall (Stradinski Buk) that fell as a closely spaced series of falls. It was beautiful but not as impressive to us as the big falls at Plitvice. From the base of the falls we climbed uphill to a knoll near the top. There were great views all along this route, and they continued as the trail passed a working mill and then flattened out after we viewed a series of smaller waterfalls. Eventually we crossed a broad, flat area of the river and worked our way back downhill to catch the return boat at 11:30.
Naturally we were comparing this water wonderland with Plitvice, which we had visited earlier. Two things were immediately apparent: (1) the water here was greenish rather than the shades of blue at Plitvice, and (2) there were far more travertine terraces here than at Plitvice. Also, Krka has fewer visitors than Plitvice, which was a relief. J is a geologist so he found both parks fascinating, and we all appreciated their respective features and beauty. Glad we did both!
Back in our apartment, we shared a lunch made from our market supplies and then drove to the northern reaches of the park (same entrance ticket) to see the famous string of travertine terraces called the necklaces, which are separated by small waterfalls. On the way we stopped at Lake Vicovar, where for a fee we took a little boat to an island with a monastery. We spent half an hour walking around the island and in and out of the parts of the monastery that were accessible, including a small museum that focused on the evils of the Serbs during the 1990s war. We enjoyed seeing an old wagon wheel that was completely encrusted in travertine. There were very few people in this part of the park.
Back on shore we drove uphill through some S-curves and then took a right on a road that we had been told would lead to spectacular views of the necklaces from above. It did not, and we eventually gave up after walking a couple of km, encountering scary barking dogs but no views.
Disappointed, we returned to the car and drove to the area of the park where the Krka River flows through the necklaces and over a large waterfall, Roski Slap, with a mill adjacent to it. Initially we walked upstream to explore the necklaces. They were lovely, and we decided to climb up a steep stairway (517 steps) that led to a cave, in hopes of being able to photograph them from above. Three of us made it to the cave, which had been occupied by humans over a 4,000-year period, but I stopped about halfway up the stairs when I was able to get good views of the necklaces below.
After all this climbing, we walked south across the road to get views of the base of Roski Slap. There we spied a restaurant/bar in the old mill complex and decided to have a drink and perhaps a small bite to eat. It quickly turned into more than that. We sat down at a wooden table very close to one of the many water courses in the falls, which had powered the mill. This was a family owned and operated place, and our waiter was the former owner, a frail older man named Christian, who had passed enterprise on to his son but still loved being part of it. We ordered beers and some bread and cheese to nibble on. Christian first brought out the four beers (all at once), then put four large mugs of wine on the table. We were suitably impressed and loved the gleam in his eye. He then began to bring out the food: a huge platter of salami, bacon, prosciutto-style ham, two kinds of cheese, green olives, and plenty of bread. As we began to devour this feast, Christian brought his own beverage to the table, and he and our friend began to converse in German, with moments of broken English shared with the rest of us. He was a great character and very opinionated! At the end, he brought out some schnapps and we toasted to one another’s health. We will all remember that experience with fondness.
It was getting dark when we left the table, fuller and more satisfied than we had expected to be. We managed to get back into town—once again in the dark--having learned how to proceed from our experience the night before. Later in the evening we returned to the Dalmatico for some mushroom soup and a not very successful seafood risotto--we weren't on Dugi Otok anymore! The liter of white wine eased our pain. It had been a really great day, with 20,000 steps and 44 flights, according to our iPhone app.
Next: Split, our final stop in Croatia.
Dec 7th, 2017, 05:17 AM
#23
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Still enjoying your report. Sounds like Plitvice is more impressive than Krka. I loved your report on your lunch at the old mill complex with Christian! What a wonderful experience. And another off the beaten track and non-touristy experience, too!
Dec 10th, 2017, 11:10 AM
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Sept. 23--Split
Three weeks into our trip, we were in the car by 8:00 am and on our way to our final Croatian destination, the history-filled town of Split. We had spent a night there 10 years earlier on our way to Hvar and Dubrovnik and were looking forward to our return, brief though it would be.
Though we couldn’t check in until later in the day, we stopped at our centrally located lodging, Prima Luxury Suites, to drop our bags. Our GPS brought us to the correct general location and then we had to hunt for the entry to the hotel, which wasn’t obvious. After finally locating the hotel’s sign, we found the front desk, on the third floor of the Prima building. (There’s something to be said for staying in a well-known hotel, which this was not!) Then we drove via a complex route of streets around the old part of town to the Sixt car rental return lot located on the esplanade. Despite some anxious moments, it all worked out and we were free to explore Split by 9:45 or so.
It was a lovely sunny day as we walked along the esplanade toward the old part of the city. We were drawn to the famous Venetian Prokurativa (Republic Square) with columned shops on three sides, where we had coffees and watched a group of young girls performing with batons. From there we entered the old town proper with its narrow, winding streets and crowd of tourists. Croatia has indeed been discovered. We enjoyed perusing the busy fish market with its displays of seafood and fish, both large and small. Lots of activity in that market! We also browsed the “Game of Thrones” store (many scenes were filmed in Croatia, especially in Split and Dubrovnik [King’s Landing]) and serendipitously ran into the Indian couple we had met earlier on the slow boat in Dugi Otok.
Eventually we entered Diocletian’s Palace itself--a place that, despite the crowds, was as magical as we had remembered it. We listened to a beautiful a capella performance in one walled area with perfect acoustics, saw the black porphyry carving of the sphinx, and watched from above as “Roman soldiers” reenacted scenes from the time of Diocletian in the main square. We wandered in the direction of the Ethnographic Museum, housed in the interior of the palace, and on the way spotted a sign announcing a free jazz performance to be held that evening, celebrating the centennial of John Coltrane. Our evening plans were settled at that moment.
The museum is located on three floors and offers insights into the ethnographic history of Split and Croatia. After spending time in an interesting exhibit of traditional clothing, we decided to pay the entrance fee to climb the bell tower of St. Duje (Domnius). We were told that there were not too many steps and that the passage was not too narrow, both of which were untrue. But we all soldiered up the winding, steep stairway, which was tough for a person with short legs. It took time to navigate because one stairway served two-way traffic and there was a lot of congestion, but the views from the top are noteworthy.
Back on the ground, we returned to our left baggage and to check in at Prima Luxury Suites. We were puzzled when they said they had no record of our reservation; it turned out that actual lodging was Prima Luxury Rooms, located around the corner! So confusing, but all’s well that ends well, and we eventually made it (with our bags) to the right place. There we were greeted by a friendly young woman who showed us to our nicely appointed rooms. She told us that we weren't the first to be confused by the similarity in names of the lodgings in the area. (Seems like a problem that could be easily remedied!)
After getting settled we decided to nose around some more along the back streets of the old town, which retained a charm that the more crowded areas lacked. We did steal down to the esplanade for aperol spritzes, and around 6:15 we made our way to the performance space for the Coltrane concert. A small crowd began to assemble, and around 6:40 the gate opened and we secured four seats in the front row. The talented musicians were led by the long-time conductor of the Croatian national jazz group. He played the saxophone at a virtuoso level and was excellent on the clarinet as well. The only weak link was the vocalist, who had adopted a cheesy Frank Sinatra-type accent for his songs. All in all it was a wonderful concert in a magical small space in in Diocletian’s palace.
The concert ended just in time for us to make the 1/2 km walk to Marjan, where we had reserved for dinner at 9 pm on the recommendation of our lodging host. It was a cozy, family-run place, and the seafood-based meal was a fitting final meal in Croatia.
The next morning it was sadly time for us to split, with our friends heading to Czech Republic for their final week of travel and our own onward travel to the Peloponnese and Crete for three weeks. We had booked a taxi to take us to the airport (Є40 fixed rate), which is nearer to Trogir than to Split. Our driver knew all the shortcuts and got us to the airport in good time. We bid farewell to beautiful Croatia and boarded our Aegean flight to Athens.
Eventually I hope to get around to posting a report on the Greek part of our trip, but finally it's a wrap for the wonderful Venice/Slovenia/Croatia portion. We now feel that we have given lovely Croatia the time it's due (though there are parts we still haven’t seen). Our eyes have been opened to Slovenia’s beauty and charm, and we are putting that on our list of places we hope to return to.
Thanks for following along--I hope this long report is helpful in some way to other travelers.
Three weeks into our trip, we were in the car by 8:00 am and on our way to our final Croatian destination, the history-filled town of Split. We had spent a night there 10 years earlier on our way to Hvar and Dubrovnik and were looking forward to our return, brief though it would be.
Though we couldn’t check in until later in the day, we stopped at our centrally located lodging, Prima Luxury Suites, to drop our bags. Our GPS brought us to the correct general location and then we had to hunt for the entry to the hotel, which wasn’t obvious. After finally locating the hotel’s sign, we found the front desk, on the third floor of the Prima building. (There’s something to be said for staying in a well-known hotel, which this was not!) Then we drove via a complex route of streets around the old part of town to the Sixt car rental return lot located on the esplanade. Despite some anxious moments, it all worked out and we were free to explore Split by 9:45 or so.
It was a lovely sunny day as we walked along the esplanade toward the old part of the city. We were drawn to the famous Venetian Prokurativa (Republic Square) with columned shops on three sides, where we had coffees and watched a group of young girls performing with batons. From there we entered the old town proper with its narrow, winding streets and crowd of tourists. Croatia has indeed been discovered. We enjoyed perusing the busy fish market with its displays of seafood and fish, both large and small. Lots of activity in that market! We also browsed the “Game of Thrones” store (many scenes were filmed in Croatia, especially in Split and Dubrovnik [King’s Landing]) and serendipitously ran into the Indian couple we had met earlier on the slow boat in Dugi Otok.
Eventually we entered Diocletian’s Palace itself--a place that, despite the crowds, was as magical as we had remembered it. We listened to a beautiful a capella performance in one walled area with perfect acoustics, saw the black porphyry carving of the sphinx, and watched from above as “Roman soldiers” reenacted scenes from the time of Diocletian in the main square. We wandered in the direction of the Ethnographic Museum, housed in the interior of the palace, and on the way spotted a sign announcing a free jazz performance to be held that evening, celebrating the centennial of John Coltrane. Our evening plans were settled at that moment.
The museum is located on three floors and offers insights into the ethnographic history of Split and Croatia. After spending time in an interesting exhibit of traditional clothing, we decided to pay the entrance fee to climb the bell tower of St. Duje (Domnius). We were told that there were not too many steps and that the passage was not too narrow, both of which were untrue. But we all soldiered up the winding, steep stairway, which was tough for a person with short legs. It took time to navigate because one stairway served two-way traffic and there was a lot of congestion, but the views from the top are noteworthy.
Back on the ground, we returned to our left baggage and to check in at Prima Luxury Suites. We were puzzled when they said they had no record of our reservation; it turned out that actual lodging was Prima Luxury Rooms, located around the corner! So confusing, but all’s well that ends well, and we eventually made it (with our bags) to the right place. There we were greeted by a friendly young woman who showed us to our nicely appointed rooms. She told us that we weren't the first to be confused by the similarity in names of the lodgings in the area. (Seems like a problem that could be easily remedied!)
After getting settled we decided to nose around some more along the back streets of the old town, which retained a charm that the more crowded areas lacked. We did steal down to the esplanade for aperol spritzes, and around 6:15 we made our way to the performance space for the Coltrane concert. A small crowd began to assemble, and around 6:40 the gate opened and we secured four seats in the front row. The talented musicians were led by the long-time conductor of the Croatian national jazz group. He played the saxophone at a virtuoso level and was excellent on the clarinet as well. The only weak link was the vocalist, who had adopted a cheesy Frank Sinatra-type accent for his songs. All in all it was a wonderful concert in a magical small space in in Diocletian’s palace.
The concert ended just in time for us to make the 1/2 km walk to Marjan, where we had reserved for dinner at 9 pm on the recommendation of our lodging host. It was a cozy, family-run place, and the seafood-based meal was a fitting final meal in Croatia.
The next morning it was sadly time for us to split, with our friends heading to Czech Republic for their final week of travel and our own onward travel to the Peloponnese and Crete for three weeks. We had booked a taxi to take us to the airport (Є40 fixed rate), which is nearer to Trogir than to Split. Our driver knew all the shortcuts and got us to the airport in good time. We bid farewell to beautiful Croatia and boarded our Aegean flight to Athens.
Eventually I hope to get around to posting a report on the Greek part of our trip, but finally it's a wrap for the wonderful Venice/Slovenia/Croatia portion. We now feel that we have given lovely Croatia the time it's due (though there are parts we still haven’t seen). Our eyes have been opened to Slovenia’s beauty and charm, and we are putting that on our list of places we hope to return to.
Thanks for following along--I hope this long report is helpful in some way to other travelers.
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davidbaltimore
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Jul 22nd, 2011 11:22 AM
