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Seetheworld's Trip Report: Highlights of London & Portugal - Including One very HOT day in Seville, "A Midsummer Night's Dream" in Cambridge, and a Bout with Homesickness

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Seetheworld's Trip Report: Highlights of London & Portugal - Including One very HOT day in Seville, "A Midsummer Night's Dream" in Cambridge, and a Bout with Homesickness

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Old Aug 2nd, 2006, 08:21 AM
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Great report. I'm dying to hear about your experience at Gordon Ramsay's.
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Old Aug 2nd, 2006, 01:00 PM
  #42  
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<b>GORDON RAMSAY AT CLARIDGE’S</b>
Bond Street Station

I apologize for the delay…I found this challenging to write…

With only three evenings in London, it was difficult to decide on where to dine. For this short trip, we planned on having one very special evening out. And since we did not have to “pay” for our hotel accommodations, we could splurge. I will admit to being somewhat curious about Gordon Ramsay’s popularity (although I only watched a few brief moments of his program in the states). I posed the question to Fodorites and received a variety of responses – I only wish we could have given more of them a try. I ultimately asked my BIL where we should go and according to his “straw poll” at his firm, he gave us two choices: Gordon Ramsay at Claridge’s and Rhodes W1.

Because we booked so late, our reservation was for a table in one of the private dining rooms. We were told that it would be a more intimate setting right off the main dining area. All of the private dining rooms were “opened” onto each other, creating a long corridor – visually it was quite interesting to look at. I think it would have been nicer to be seated in the center private room that directly overlooked the main dining area; we were on the end, feeling a little lost, but not neglected.

Here is our review:

<b>Things both my husband and I could agree upon:</b>

<i>Positives:</i> We loved the d&eacute;cor – very art deco, high ceiling, huge windows, rich fabrics, and beautiful table setting with top-notch flowers. Everything you would expect from a restaurant of this caliber. The service was impeccable – almost too attentive, if you know what I mean.

<i>Negatives:</i> None of those huge windows opened and it was hot and stuffy throughout the entire restaurant. We couldn’t figure this out since the hotel itself had AC and the common areas (lounge, restrooms, etc.) were comfortable. Men are requested to wear a jacket and I also had an evening suit on and we both quickly removed our jackets (as did others) because it was so uncomfortable. Perhaps I am being overly critical.

Lack of ambiance. It was too quiet! Now lest you think that my DH was not entertaining, he was extremely...that big flirt. However, some music would have made it more relaxing, but instead your ears wondered to the conversations of others and the clamoring of silverware – “intimate” it was not. When rating the entire evening, this is where the restaurant fell extremely short.

<b>On to the food and drink...</b>
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Old Aug 2nd, 2006, 01:07 PM
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I apologize for having to break this up...it won't be accepted any other way.

The menu offered a nice balance of fish and meat (game too). You are out of luck if you happen to be vegetarian. Dinner consisted of a three course meal priced at 65&pound;. There is also a six course tasting menu (which we noticed many people ordered for an additional 10&pound. For haute cuisine, we left very full and could not imagine eating any more. Our total bill came to approximately $360USD.

<b>For the table:</b>

We started our evening with sparkling water – thankfully it came chilled (would hate to start another ice debate, lol). The bread was delicious and two types of butter were served, salted and unsalted. Then came a tray of thin and crispy flat breads (compliments of the chef) served with a salmon moose as well as an herb mouse – this was delicious and very, very flavorful! Next, a cold cream based soup (compliments of the chef) with shrimp and lightly drizzled with Truffle oil.

Both of us ordered the same starter…”Salad of Cromer crab and carrot a la grecque, ginger and carrot vinaigrette” Shavings of carrots were marinated in the vinaigrette and the crab salad was rolled inside, almost sushi style on the plate. Very nice, except for the fact that a fairly large bit of crab shell remained in my salad and created pain as I chewed down on it. Luckily I did not break a tooth, but was quite surprised. I did mention it to the table runner who cleared my dish, and she kindly expressed concern.

Wine: I love wine, but wine doesn’t love me or my ticker more precisely. Therefore we no longer order wine by the bottle – so sad, indeed. So we ordered by the glass a nice dry Chardonnay. This was probably a first for the staff at GR, but I have to say they were delightful. The Sommelier came to us and made a nice suggestion of a Portuguese wine – how did he know we were heading to Portugal??!! It was a good choice.
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Old Aug 2nd, 2006, 01:11 PM
  #44  
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<b>Mr. STW’s entree: </b>

This is where things get a little foggy or speak to the fact that my DH’s entr&eacute;e was less than memorable (and contributed to my delay in writing because I have been hounding him to try and remember)…
He ordered once again, (remember the Meridian Hotel) cheeks of monkfish. Sometimes my husband does this if the dish is unique, but this can lead to comparisons. The plate presentation was lovely, although I wish I had payed closer attention to what was actually ON the plate, so I cannot add more. Unfortunately, the fish was on the cold side and you guessed it, the monkfish was superior at the Meridian -- go figure.:-?

<b>STW’s entr&eacute;e:</b>

I loved my entr&eacute;e…”Best end of Oxfordshire lamb with confit shoulder, spiced aubergine, green and white asparagus, with tarragon jus”. The lamb was perfectly cooked medium and thinly sliced – my mouth is watering just thinking about it. I did share with John because I felt badly about his cold fish. Better to have a cold fish for dinner than a cold fish for a wife, lol :-&quot;

<b>Dessert: A+ A+</b>

We received (compliments of the chef) a pre-dessert dish of mango puree with cream froth which was served in those tall vodka glasses. Pretty service and wonderfully refreshing.

We both loved our dessert – it is why I love to go out to dinner – it is always the highlight of my dining experience! My DH had a selection of ice creams (chocolate, hazelnut) and sorbets – the blood orange sorbet was his absolute favorite! I ordered the Valrhona chocolate and hazelnut fondant with feuillantine and milk ice cream – it had chocolate, nuf said! We passed on coffee (which we would later enjoy at the Rivoli Bar at the hotel).

To close the evening, yet another treat from the chef…mascarpone ice cream spheres (balls) and a dish of these lovely pearlized chocolates. We managed to inhale the mascarpone ice cream, but we couldn’t manage another bite after that. I noticed other people asking to take the pearlized chocolates home, so I did too and they gave me four silver GR boxes with which to fill up!

<b>To wrap things up:</b>

So, it wasn’t a perfect dining experience, but it was a memorable one. We certainly walked (I rolled) away very full. Would we go back to GR at Claridge’s? Well, considering Gordon Ramsay has many other establishments to choose from (and soon to open in NYC), the answer is probably not. But unlike my dear husband, I generally avoid the same thing twice.




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Old Aug 2nd, 2006, 05:56 PM
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Adding some more photos....&quot;Day One: A long walk...&quot; A fews pictures of the scenary in London.

http://tinyurl.com/k4g9s
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Old Aug 2nd, 2006, 06:46 PM
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I shouldn't have read this just before bed, because now I'm hungry....

Great work stw, I'm waiting anxiously for your next installment.

PS, I met Scarlett and Pup a couple of days ago, were your ears burning?? It was all good, or course.
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Old Aug 3rd, 2006, 05:01 AM
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PM, my ears are always burning, lol. That's why I carry around a miniature fire extinguisher around my neck.

Next,

Borough Market (the number one reason I would move to London - I wept when we had to leave)...

Some shopping...

And off to Cambridge on a fast moving train...
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Old Aug 3rd, 2006, 05:17 AM
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Thanks for the great review. If you have the BBC America channel, check out &quot;Ramsay's Kitchen Nightmares&quot; to get a better idea of the man and his quest for excellent food. He spends a week at a failing restaurant trying to turn it around. &quot;Hell's Kitchen&quot; does its best to portray him as somewhat of a jerk.
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Old Aug 14th, 2006, 06:37 AM
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<b>DAY FOUR…</b>

<b>BOROUGH MARKET</b>
London Bridge Station

Our short journey to London included a long list of markets to visit – wishful thinking! There was only time to (briefly) visit one and on our last morning in London, it was off to Borough Market. Ahh, it made me long for a few more days in London because this market was extraordinary!

Tables and stalls of everything imaginable...artisan breads, cheeses, beautiful (and expensive) fresh produce, fish and meats, wine and flowers...Not to mention all of the cafes and restaurants.

Based on the recommendation of a fellow Fodorite, we made our way through the market looking for the toasted cheese sandwich booth. Many people gathered at this booth, so we were sure it would be a treat. And it was! A huge mound of tangy cheese melted on sourdough bread – it was different from anything else we had ever tasted.

While we were waiting for our sandwich, we struck up a conversation with one of the fellows, his accent a bit obscure and not British. I asked him where he was from and he said “Westchester, New York” – no kidding! That’s where we are from!! As it turned out, he was from Larchmont, NY (a football rival of the community in which we live) and worked for Neal’s Yard Dairy as a cheese im/exporter. He wanted us to come back later in the day to taste a potato dish that he was cooking in a large pot – I don’t remember what this dish was called. Unfortunately, we would be off to Cambridge and unable to give it a taste.

After our sandwich, we grabbed coffee from a little shop with a long line – sorry no name or address, but it did sell Fair Trade coffee that was incredibly smooth and tasty. What’s a morning in the market without at least eating part of your way through it!? lol. Our last treat in the market was homemade plum ice cream. Plum!! What an unusual treat that was! Before heading back to the hotel to finish packing, we purchased some parmesan and sun dried tomato bread and raisin buns to bring to our S&amp;BIL’s house. We also purchased a beautiful bouquet of flowers for sister’s birthday. I knew the moment I bought those flowers they would be a thorn in my side on the way to Cambridge, lol. But they were lovely.



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Old Aug 14th, 2006, 07:14 AM
  #50  
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A few pictures of Borough Market...

http://tinyurl.com/rrprp

<b>SHOPPING IN LONDON:</b>

Just a quick moment to recap some of the limited shopping we did on this trip…bits of this and that…mostly foodstuff…

<b>Fortnum and Mason</b>: Ginger biscuits, Manuka honey, Organic Camomile tea, chocolate (which we ate after the disappointing lunch in Greenwich. And yes, it did make me feel better…instantly). I also picked up some olive pate for my oldest son and strawberry jam for the youngest.

<b>Harrods</b>: Get the store guide, lol. This place is huge...The summer sale was also in full swing!! We didn’t spend long here (a couple of hours), but we both enjoyed visiting. I bought a box of No. 4711 refreshing tissues for my mom (and gave me a twinge in my heart as I remembered my Omi always using these). We picked up a variety of sweets and jams for our sons and some Orange and Lemon butter biscuits to enjoy with tea. The food court is impressive -- only wish there was more time to sample all of the goodies.

<b>The British Museum</b>: I love museum gift shops and I was lucky to spot some sale items, which I scooped up for 1 &pound; each. Lovely floral napkins and several “cooks journals” with photographs of prints and exhibits – quite a nice find, in my opinion, of course!

<b>Kings Cross Station</b>
Heading to Cambridge...

We took a cab to King’s Cross station to begin the second leg of our trip. My husband left me with our luggage and the flowers (did I mention it was getting hot?) near the Swatch kiosk while he waited on line to purchase rail tickets to Cambridge from the automatic ticket machine. The station was very busy, but we had plenty of time to make our train. I did notice that he was speaking with one of the attendants fairly often. It seemed that the ticket machine was a bit tricky and the people before my husband apparently (unknowingly) purchased several tickets, but took none of them with them! I think they may have a bit of a surprise waiting for them on their next credit card statement.

Train travel is expensive in the UK – 40&pound; for two one-way tickets. No one collected our tickets on the train, but if the ticket collector should happen to collect tickets and you don’t have one, I understand there is a hefty fine. This is the train my BIL takes everyday into and out of London. It’s a very fast train and our first time on it, so I wasn’t expecting the strange sensation in my ears every time we went through a tunnel!! Ouch!

Next, some &quot;real&quot; pub food, a night of Shakespeare in the park...and repacking out suitcases for our trip to Portugal!

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Old Aug 14th, 2006, 08:25 AM
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Both your description and your pictures of the market are great! Sounds like a fun way to spend a few hours.

Looking forward to the rest!
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Old Aug 14th, 2006, 09:28 AM
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Ditto to CAPH....
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Old Aug 14th, 2006, 09:44 AM
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Bookmarking for my next trip to London!
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Old Aug 14th, 2006, 12:20 PM
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<b>CAMBRIDGE, ENGLAND:</b>

I mentioned earlier that reunions are sweet – indeed they truly are and they should never be taken for granted. And they grow sweeter with each passing year; recognizing with time, as well as with age, that time is precious and all-too short. Hugs and kisses…tea and sweets…laughs and stories…a lovely way to spend an afternoon in Cambridge. Seeing our nephews did make me a bit sad, remembering the days when our sons were that age – tugging on my heartstrings. No. This was not true homesickness – that was yet to come.

After catching up, and rearranging our suitcases for our early morning flight to Portugal, we headed into town (by taxi since drinking was to be done) for some authentic pub food. I hear from my BIL that pub food is slowly fading, but thankfully, along the River Cam, you can still find good-old-fashion eats.

<b>The Boat House</b>
14 Chesterton Road
Cambridge
01223 460905

Not giving up on my quest for fish and chips, we headed to the Boat House - Simple pub grub with a beer garden in the back. It was another lovely afternoon in England and made the view of the River, with the quirky houseboats, all the more enjoyable. Up river you could hear the music playing – Cambridge is a lively place on Saturdays! I love these types of relaxed places because you can snap pictures** of your food and no one gives a hoot. So you’ll see pictures of my beloved “fish and chips” (a big improvement from the fish leather I ate in Greenwich), John’s “bangers and mash”, BIL’s “Shepherd’s pie” and sister’s “tuna melt”. The beer was great – the guys also gave the sweet beer a try, but didn’t like it. More Pimms and lemonade – what a perfect day.

Afterwards, we continued on foot into town...passing the river filled with relaxing punters, young people enjoying their beer, and sunbathers in the park. We headed through Kings College and towards St. John’s College Gardens for a 7:30 performance of <i>“A Midsummer Night’s Dream”</i> which was part of the <b>Cambridge Shakespeare Festival </b> (www.cambridgeshakespeare.com). This festival runs from mid-July until the end of August and is a real treat – I highly recommend taking in a performance if you are in Cambridge during this time. What a talented bunch of performers! Ahhh, the turmoils of Hermia and Helena – it could get no better, sitting under the stars and breathing in the evening air. Our S&amp;BIL had packed a little wine, cheese, fresh fruit and many laughs – what a perfect evening, although a little nippy. That would be the last of the &quot;nippy&quot; days for quite a while, LOL.

After the performance, somewhere around 11pm, we decided NOT to follow the hoards of people exiting the St. John’s gates. Instead we decided to head back through King’s College towards the center of town where our BIL said it would be easier to catch a taxi. Well, we were not the only ones…as it turned out we had a bunch of people who apparently thought we knew what we were doing since they followed along, lol. Now it was quite dark as we approached a very tall wrought iron gate which was locked! #-o Dead-end! Yes, there was a <i>very brief </i>moment where the men believed we would have no problem scaling the gate, but I put a quick end to that idea and so we turned around, laughing all the way as we made our way out - not far from where the performance ended. Silly us.

**Since I am still a newbie when it comes to uploading photos, the next set of pictures will be posted shortly.

Next, three hours sleep and a race for our plane to Portugal…






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Old Aug 14th, 2006, 01:34 PM
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Okay, here's the tiny url (Worldisround) Cambridge photos...

http://tinyurl.com/kft4v

Next up, Stansted Airport and EasyJet or otherwise known as the &quot;Romper Room&quot; of the skies...
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Old Aug 14th, 2006, 02:28 PM
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Sounds, and looks, like a wonderful day, STW! The food looked great too! But, what, no pictures of the beer?!

We've got several pictures of Guinness from our Ireland trip!
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Old Aug 14th, 2006, 03:43 PM
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Those are great pics!! I especially like the one called The River Cambs where you can see the sunlight flowing over the trees. &lt;sigh&gt;

I like the food pics too. I've always thought the UK got a bum rap when it comes to food. I've had very few bad meals in the UK.
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