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trip report: London, the Tate Slides, Champagne flight on the EYE, Simpson's in the Strand, Rules and more

trip report: London, the Tate Slides, Champagne flight on the EYE, Simpson's in the Strand, Rules and more

Old Mar 3rd, 2007, 04:39 PM
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trip report: London, the Tate Slides, Champagne flight on the EYE, Simpson's in the Strand, Rules and more

A different sort of trip. Several friends from all over (West Coast, Southeast, Ireland, London, and Canada) had milestones in late 2006. So we all decided to get together over Pres Day weekend in London to celebrate. 7 of us rented 3 flats at Scala House - including the 2 Londoners there were nine total. After the weekend fun I flew to Ireland to visit a friend for a few days and then returned to London where I pricelined hotels for 4 more days.

FLIGHT SFO / LHR FEB 14-15

I am soooooo glad I flew non-stop w/ all the snow/flight cancellations on the east coast. Easy check in at SFO United desk, slipped passport into the kiosk and out popped my boarding pass w/o standing in line at all. Since I didn't check a bag I didn't even have to queue for the luggage drop. Security lines also quick/painless so I ended up airside nearly 3 hours before the flight. Took a bit of time to rearrange a few things I'd need on the flight from the quart baggie into my handbag. And then just read and ate until they called the flight.

Across the lounge was a really beautiful family, tall blond American woman, handsome French (or at least French accent) husband and two cute boys about 6 and 9 yo. Mom lays down the law "use your inside voices, no throwing anything or running, don't disturb the others", and so on. "If you are really good we'll have ice cream sundaes. Then she walks off. Husband immediately undoes everything. Pulls out a son's nerf ball and starts playing catch and rough housing w/ the kids, just totally winding them up. About 10 mins later Mom comes back and Dad sits there all innocent looking. Mom is upset, not loud or anything but clearly upset. Boys are sent to sit at opposite ends of the row of seats and told not to move until the flight is called. I really felt sorry for them. As far as I could see Dad never set things right.

Flight about 85% full and I have my aisle seat so all is well. But can't seem to sleep at all and there are NO decent movies. Read a lot and wished I'd sprung for the Bose headphones. My Panasonics just don't deaden the sound all that much. Arrived at LHR spot on time at 0655. Got through immigration really quickly and was in arrivals by about 0730. Bought a Time Out, got cash from an ATM and got my Oyster, just loaded 17GBP pay as you go (plus the 3 GBP deposit) since I'll be here 4 days and then 4 days again later in the trip and I'll have to load more on eventually.

Took the tube to Goodge Street and walked in the door of Scala House at 0900. 2 hours from touchdown isn't bad.

FEB 15 SCALA HOUSE AND MEETING UP W/ EVERY ONE ELSE

Our flat was't yet ready at 9:00 so I left my bag and walked over to the British Museum for tea and a fresh fruit plate in the Great Court. Then walked over to the Waterstone's near the University to pick up a couple of books that are hard to find in the States. Then went to an internet café just around the corner from from the flats and sent a couple of e-mails. Got back to Scala House about 10:30 and flat almost ready. Sat and read and at 11:00 I got the keys and the 2 friends who are sharing my flat drove up in a cab at the exact same moment - perfect timing.

I won't repeat everything about Scala House since it is on this thread: http://www.fodors.com/forums/threads...2&tid=34921522

We unpack and then walk around the corner for a good pub lunch. (I kept he names of all the places we ate/drank, but right now I can't seem to find the list so I'll have to add them later). I had steak and ale pie and a half of Bombardiers. Then we walked down Tottenham Court Rd and Charing Cross over to Seven Dials and Neal's Yard. We bought 3 or 4 cheeses for later on and then walked on to Covent Garden. Bought a few things in Lush and just wandered around then had Espressos/hot Chocolate/brandy coffee outdoors under the heaters and watched the street performers.

Took the tube back and stopped in the nearby Tescos for basics like bread/coffee/tea and the required plain chocolate digestives

Two more friends arrived between 4:00 and 6:00 and the other two would come in on Friday. The 5 of us went to a really nice Italian restaurant just around the corner in Charlotte St. Bruschetta, mineral waters, wine and really yummy food came to 175 GBP for the 5 of us. And we aren't talking Spaghetti Bol here- starters like seafood/chickpea soup, linguini/clams, avocado/fresh tuna and mains like Lobster, sea bass, etc. Seemed good value at just 35 GBP a person.

By then it is about 10:00 and I returned to the internet café to use up the rest of my 1 GBP (GBP per hour and good for all day). Back to the flat for a looooong hot bath and finally to bed around 11:30, totally corked and slept like a baby.

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Old Mar 3rd, 2007, 04:44 PM
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Don't have any idea how the sections got screwed up - must be a word to fodors glitch.

Should have been:

FLIGHT SFO / LHR FEB 14-15

and

FEB 15 SCALA HOUSE AND MEETING UP W/ EVERY ONE ELSE.

anyway, next installments later tonight -- hopefully . . . . . .

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Old Mar 3rd, 2007, 05:10 PM
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Another fan of plain choc digestives. Whenever someone comes from UK that's always my first request.
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Old Mar 3rd, 2007, 05:21 PM
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Big fan of Lush. Have been waiting for your trip report. Can't wait to hear the rest.
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Old Mar 3rd, 2007, 05:31 PM
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I'm looking forward to reading your report, Janis!

Lee Ann
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Old Mar 3rd, 2007, 10:06 PM
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Feb 16 - Harrod's, Hop-on-hop-off, and another great Italian dinner

Friday morning started out another nice day - broken clouds and cool but not cold. My 2 room mates took the DLR to Greenwich for most of the day and a boat back. I was going to join them but one of the other girls had not been to London before and she wanted to get to Harrods for some serious shopping and this was the only day that would work so I volunteered to show her the way. There is a designer she especially likes and isn't available where she lives. So she did what some of us only threaten -- she brought a basically empty suitcase and planned to fill it w/ new clothes. One of the others joined us and we went off to Harrods to help "empty suitcase" spend her money.

We got to Harrod's and broke up at first -- While she went up to start trying on clothes, I bought my annual Halcyon Days enamel box, and our other friend went to look for Moulton/Browne stuff. Then we all congregated in the dress salon to make sure 'empty suitcase' (ES) did enough damage. She did get some lovely things and we all did our part for the UK economy. From there, down to Food Halls where we got a few yummy things for our respective flats and then to the Tax desk to get our VAT forms completed. This was hunger-making work so we decided to go to the Creperie on (I think) the 4th floor. Had a lovely lunch of champagne and salads - mine was smoked salmon & Brie for 13.95 GBP. Had crepes and coffees for dessert - good food and surprisingly, reasonably priced.

There is a tour Bus stop right outside Harrods so we decided to take the tour since ES hasn't been here before and may not get a chance to see too much until her last day in town on Monday.

The only drippy weather over the whole weekend happend about 1/2 way through when we had to change routes at Marble Arch. We put on the dorky rain ponchos they provide - and w/i 10 minutes it was dry again. Did the whole loop and then took the tube back to Goodge Street about 5:00.

(an aside - my camera crapped out Fri. afternoon and I spent Sat morning going from Tottenham Ct Rd to Great Portland St to a couple of other places trying to get it fixed. ended up just buying a new camera)

The last two friends arrived on Friday afternoon so the whole group was ready to party. We had planned Sat/Sun but had left Friday free to give everyone a chance to get settled in and do their own things. But Friday night all 9 of us wanted to go out to eat. Friday night -- a party of 9 -- and no reservations. Good luck! So we just headed around the corner to Charlotte St which is just lined w/ one restaurant afer another figuring we'd find something.

The first couple of places that looked good - a Tapas bar and a Thai res were booked solid. Then just off Charlotte St on I think Percy St we found a gem (again - need to find that list to get the name). A really nice Italian place (not your mother's Spaghetti Factory) that was full but their private dining room wasn't booked so they set it up for us and it was perfect. The final bill came to 351 GBP for all 9 -- inc service and 4 bottles of wine. I had a chicken/wild mushroom terrine w/ baby greens starter, Salmon fillet main, and Gellato. Others had Sea Bass, Pork tenderloin, etc. It was a really good meal.

Then back to Scala house for drinks.

Tomorrow it is the Slides and dinner and then Sunday is the biggie -- Champagne on the Eye and dinner at Simpson's . . . . . to be continued
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Old Mar 3rd, 2007, 10:55 PM
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Sounds like a fun time, janis. Looking forward to the rest.
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Old Mar 4th, 2007, 07:08 AM
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I'm enjoying your report, janisj! Sounds like you had a nice smooth (if long) flight, and a great beginning to the trip. I'm looking forward to reading the rest. This is whetting my appetite for London - just 5 days and I'll be on the plane.
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Old Mar 4th, 2007, 10:43 AM
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Sat Feb 17 - Tate Slides and yummy Thai dinner

I'll pretty much skip over my Sat morning/early afternoon. My Camera stopped working properly Friday afternoon and I spent a good part of the day wandering from Tottenham Court Rd to Soho to Great Portland St and back to Tot Ct Rd looking for a place to fix it. And w/ the Northern line down all weekend for works - it was a pian. Finally threw in the towel and bought a new one.

Sooooooo glad I did. Went over to the British Museum to try it out and learn some of the features on the fly (who wants to waste time reading an owner's manual anyway ). It worked great and uses the same memory cards as my other camera so that saved some ££.

Because of the Northern line, I took a roundabout route to Green Park to London Bridge for Borough Market and Southwark Cathedral. The market was an absolute ZOO in mid afternoon when I got there. Was totally packed. I fought the crowds for a bit but finally gave up and had tea/scones in the Cathedral's refectory. Paid £3 for a photo permit in the Cathedral - it is one of my favorites and a quiet refuge from the masses just outside at the market.

By now it's nearly 4 p.m. and we are all meeting up at the Tate a bit after 5:00 to queue for the slides. Since I stilll haven't had a real lunch I decide to head to the Tate early, scope out the procedures for getting slide tix and eat in the cafe there. One of the guys had the same idea and we ran into each other (literally) at the info desk. He was starving too so we went to the cafe and had lunch/wine. I had pumpkin/sweet potato soup w/ creme fraiche (heavy on the pumpkin, light on the Sweet potato - but very good) and crusty bread.

Then we queued up about 5:15 for the slides - tickets are released at 6 p.m. and there were maybe 15 or 20 folks ahead of us. Soon the rest of us (well most - one gal wasn't feeling well and she and her husband had returned to the flat) joined us and at 6:00 we got our tix.

You get 30 minutes from the time of your ticket to make the two slides. Not a problem IF you have someone to hold your handbags/packs etc. But if you need to check them, be sure to do that early cuz the check room is congested and you won't have time to check them and get two both slides. We got 6:00 tickets - and by the time we finished riding, all that night's tickets were gone.

The slides are numbered 5 (the tallest), 3 (no longer in operation because another installation conflicts w/ it), 2, and 1 (the shortest and the only one that doesn't require a ticket)

We hit #5 first and it is fast and a bit bumpy towards the top. But not scary - you don't go upside down or anything. I was pretty dizzy at the bottom and practically had to crawl off the landing mat. If it had been possible I think all of us would have ridden 5 again. The #2 slide is fast too, but not not nearly as long. I was less dizzy on that one - but it is a quicker ride and has its own thrills.

If one of you doesn't want to ride, have them stand near the landing mats and get pix/video of you landing. One of our guys went first each time and as soon as he jumped off the mat he pulled his camera out of his shirt pocket and quickly shot each of us coming out of the slide. They are really funny - but he didn't have a chance to get set so not as good as they'd be if he had been standing there (and wasn't still spinning himself )

Be sure to keep your arms crossed w/ your hands on your shoulders - otherwise your elbows might hit the walls and that would hurt. The attendants give you good instructions as you climb in the tube.

It was a total kick - then the 6 of us walked down river to Hays Galleria and ate at Thai Kwan on the river side of the complex. I have walked past this place many times but never ate there. It is really quite good. We all ordered different things and there was lots of tasting/sharing going on. Final bill ended up about £30 pp.

Then we walked across the river and made our way back home. Some took the tube (northern line still down) and some a taxi. Back to the £1 internet cafe and to the flat about 11. Finally fell into bed around 1 a.m.
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Old Mar 4th, 2007, 12:15 PM
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Thank you, janis!
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Old Mar 4th, 2007, 01:28 PM
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Minor correction - now that I think about it, the photo permit at Southwark Cathedral was £2. I think it was £3 for a video permit

Anyway Sun Feb 18 - the big celebration dinner at Simpson's and a Champagne flight on the Eye

This was the most overcast day so far - but still not really cold or rainy. We all brought "dress up" clothes for today - except for Empty Suitcase who got hers at Harrods. Lots of lazing around Sunday morning - a couple walked over to the Br Museum, some went for a long walk, I bought the Sunday papers and vegged out w/ tea and pastries -- and of course chocolate digestives.

I'd booked a champagne flight for 4 p.m. So everyone was back and ready by about 3:15. because of the northern line - instead of hiking down to Tot Ct Rd station, catching the Central line and then yada yada -- we just walked around to the corner of Charlotte and Goodge sts and hailed a couple of cabs.

we got there right on time and had to queue for about 4 or 5 mins in the ticket hall waiting for our hostess w/ the picnic basket full of the bottles/glasses etc. Then directly on to the Eye. The sky had cleared quite a bit - still cloudy but lots of open sky too and just about perfect conditions. Everybody was offering toasts for all of our different celebrations -- and of course gawking at all the sites of London. I had been on the Eye 3 or 4 times and one of the Londoners and I were able to point out most everything. And THEN the really biggie - as the toasts were dying down one couple said "And one more thing. We got engaged last night!" Well - then it really got silly/giddy. This was totally unexpected and everyone is absolutely thrilled for them. Our hostes even offered a toast of her own. A perfect climax to the Eye.

Some info about special Eye flights: Since a private capsule costs £390.00 plus £52.00 per bottle of champagne (minimum order two bottles) we had opted just for the "down market" champagne flight. Champagne flights are £29 per person and are supposed to include one glass each (extra glasses are £10) and you don't get a capsule to yourselves.

Well - we saved about £350 -- we had 1) a capsule all to ourselves 2) a delightful young French woman as our hostess who set up the glasses and poured the champagne. She also took our group photos w/ each and every one of our cameras. 3) we got between 1 1/2 and 2 full glasses each. and 4 we each also got the full colour Eye guide book. It was absolutely great.

We landed and had some time to kill until our booking for 6:00 at Simpsons-in-the-Strand so we walked over to One Bar One just there between Waterloon and the County Hall/Eye. Had a few snacks and beer, some had more champagne and/or wine. We were a pretty jolly group by that point.

Then we walked over the river and up the Strand to the restaurant. Most of us had eaten there at one time or another so it was sort of picked for sentimental reasons. But no matter - you really can't go wrong at Simpson's.

I couldn't keep track of what everyone was having - suffice it to say between the 9 we probably had 6 different starters, 8 different main courses and 4 or 5 different desserts. I had a duck pate starter and Lamb Shanks. W/ wine and all dinner came to £57 pp.

4 folks opted to walk back to Scala house from the Strand and the rest took a cab. It was a pretty magical evening.
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Old Mar 4th, 2007, 01:43 PM
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The next day folks started leaving (I flew to Ireland which I'll post in a different thread). Some flew back to the States on Monday, one on Tues and one went on to Germany for a few days. After my 4+ days in Ireland I flew back in to London at the end of the week and stayed 4 more days to catch up on theatre, the Hogarth exhibit and some other things. next installment will cover those days inc Tate Britain, Spamalot and eating lunch at Rules -- but it may be a couple of days til I get it done.
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Old Mar 4th, 2007, 02:00 PM
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What a great deal on the Eye! I've always wondered about Simpson's and will also be very interested in your Rules experience. We are going to Spamalot on the 16th. Our family has always been huge Holy Grail fans. I was torn, though, between that and Wicked (my 21 year old selected Spamalot.)
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Old Mar 5th, 2007, 04:56 PM
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Back to London after a few days in Ireland

Hotels: For my last 4 nights in London I pricelined two hotels. Originally I was going to PL 4 nights in London before my Tuesday flight back to the States. Then I got this "bright idea" to only do the 3 nights in London and PL my last night out at LHR. Since LHR hotels usually go so much cheaper than in central London. The plan - check out of the hotel Monday a.m., leave my bag there while doing "stuff", pick up the bag Monday night, take the tube to LHR and have a good night's sleep. Well - it WOULD have been a great idea -- except the only night I could get a good seat for Spamalot was Monday. What to do?? Leaving my bag at the hotel till after 11 p.m. and then starting out to LHR meant not getting checked in til nearly 1 a.m. Leaving the bag at Paddington left luggage wouldn't work - since it closes at 11 p.m. -- too early to guarantee me getting there in time. Soooo - my best option - really expensive and a time waster -- taking the HEX to LHR Mon morning, the hotel Hoppa to the hotel/checking in, hotel Hoppa back, and HEX back to Paddington all before noon! Sheesh - saving $23 on PL ended up costing me about £36 extra for HEX/Hoppa!

Hilton Kensington Olympia. I feared I'd get this hotel when I added the Knightsbridge/Kensington zone into my bids, and sure enough. The reviews aren't great to say the least. But I got it for $75 so what the Hey. Well, I was totally pleased w/ the place. I had a very large twin room on the 5th floor, comfy beds w/ fluffy duvets, the staff was very helpful, everything was clean, and the Olympia tube station has lots better service than I remember from years past. I still don't much like the Earl's Court/Olympia area - But walking up Kens High Street is nice and the bus service is great. The hotel itself was just great. I'd stay there again for sure -- especially at PL rates . . . . .

Thistle Heathrow: A typical 3 star - smallish room but good bed, tea/coffee making/biscuits, on site restaurant and bar, all for $52. Can't beat that.

To be continued: Feb 23-27 -- Boeing, Boeing, Spamalot, Rules, Tate Britain/Hogarth, and LOTS of cold meds/throat lozenges and champagne/wine/port (strictly for medicinal purposes)
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Old Mar 5th, 2007, 11:16 PM
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Interesting report. Creperie is on the 3rd floor at Harrods though.
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Old Mar 6th, 2007, 01:15 PM
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janisj -
Fascinating information! I am going to print it out when you are finished. I will look for your Ireland report as well because we are going there, too.

You have so many great posts with advice on GB, it is very interesting to read an actual trip report from you.

Thanks!
Linda
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Old Mar 6th, 2007, 03:25 PM
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Thanks everybody - I'll really try to finish the London bits tomorrow -- I'm at my Mom's tonight and what scant notes I do have are back at home. Suffice it to say Spamalot was hilarious and Rules was super, super delish. But I also had a great lunch in the more formal restaurant at Tate Britain.

LCBonti: here is a link to another trip report I did of London and Kent

http://www.fodors.com/forums/threads...2&tid=34511389
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Old Mar 6th, 2007, 04:14 PM
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I hate to nag, Janis, but I am leaving tomorrow. Restaurant reviews, please.....
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Old Mar 6th, 2007, 05:06 PM
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OK - nag, nag, nag

due to a hellacious sinus infection/cold I picked up in Ireland I didn't go to as many places over the 2nd London stay. But two special ones I did hit were the Restaurant at Tate Britain on Saturday (the white table cloth Rex Whistler restaurant - not the cafe) and Rules for Lunch on Monday.

At the Tate (be sure to book - it was packed) I had a smoked Salmon starter, Loin of Lamb and Sweet Potato Mouse main course w/ a galls of wine (don't remember the wine) followed by a cheese board w/ port. The Lamb was magnificent, and the cheese board was one of the best I've ever had. total came to about 41 GBP.

At Rules I had a Leek and cheese tart starter, then Venison w/ caramelized pears and honey roasted parsnips, a half of London Pride, fizzy water -- and Profiteroles (I die for Profiteroles). The venison was superb, wasn't as pleased w/ the parsnips though. They tasted fine - but seemed a bit underdone. The total came to about 45GBP.
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Old Mar 6th, 2007, 05:08 PM
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That should have been a "glass" of wine - really should preview . . . .
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