We're thinking of returning to the U.K. this spring, and thought that after a few days in London we'd head off into the country. We'd like to do some walking, with paths that lead to ruined abbeys, castles, small villages and sometimes run alongside streams -- extra credit if there's some fishing nearby. I'm particularly interested in ancient ways with an intense sense of history. (Yes, I've been reading too much Macfarlane.)

I've been to the Cotswolds a number of times and would enjoy a return trip, but I thought we'd look for someplace we are less familiar with. When we lived in England we crossed Dartmoor once (by car) and I've always wanted to return. We've been to the Lake District but I think the hiking may have grown too difficult -- or my legs may have weakened. We have never been to the Yorkshire Dales.

We'd like to stay in a village or small town with a few dining options -- pubs are fine. I wouldn't mind staying at a good, historic inn, but might even prefer renting an old stone cottage (with all mod cons). Any chance for a thatched roof?

So, that's my plea. I'd welcome any suggestions that can start me towards further research. Thanks!

Hi
I live in the Yorkshire Dales and it sounds perfect for what you are after. Can't promise you flat walks but we do have lots of abbeys and castles!
So, to kick off your research I'd suggest you look at Masham or Middleham in Lower Wensleydale.
Masham would be my first choice - and I think there is fishing available at Swinton Park nearby.
http://www.swintonpark.com/
Masham is a small market town (or large village) with 2 breweries (Black Sheep and Theakstones) which you can tour. It has an excellent restaurant called Vennells.
http://vennellsrestaurant.co.uk/
Jervaulx Abbey is close by, as is Castle Bolton and Middleham Castle.
http://www.jervaulxabbey.com/
Masham has a small tourist office with lots of walking leaflets for sale.
Not many thatched places up here.
If Masham or Middleham don't look promising to you, then maybe have a look at the North Yorks Moors. Again plenty of abbeys ( Mount Grace, Byland, Rievaulx), plus some exciting coast at Whitby, Robin Hood's Bay etc. And an excellent steam railway that goes across the Moors.
http://www.nymr.co.uk/
Helmsley would be the town I'd look at if I was exploring the Moors.
Lastly, if you choose North Yorkshire don't miss the World Heritage site of Fountains Abbey and Studley Royal Water Gardens.
http://www.nationaltrust.org.uk/fountains-abbey/

Meant to give you this link for Masham (which is pronounced Mass 'em).
http://www.visitmasham.com/

Thank you, Morgana. Looks very promising.

I'm a Macfarlane fan too of course!
Also meant to give you this link - the Roman road is high up on the North Yorks Moors, and you can walk alongside it or actually on it. We've always had the place to ourselves up there.
http://www.english-heritage.org.uk/v...le-roman-road/
The Dales and Moors both have lots of ancient paths known locally as green lanes or old drovers roads. Mastiles lane in the Dales is a famous one - you can walk along sections of it.
http://www.outofoblivion.org.uk/record.asp?id=351

Yes, that's exactly the sort of thing we're looking for! Thanks again.

Either the Yorkshire Dales (would suggest Clapham, Settle, Skipton, Malham or Grassington) or the North York Moors (Helmsley, Pickering, Whitby, Scarborough) would meet the bill.

A few days in London, a couple of days in York and then a few days in the Dales would be perfect IMO.

(For comparison since you've been, the walking would be a little easier in the Cotswolds - though they can be pretty hilly too - and the villages tend to be closer together)

If you are at all interested in Ireland, we enjoyed this farm and breakfast -
http://rockyviewfarmhouse.com/index.php/about-2/

If going in March of early April I would check on the heating part of the mod cons.

Also it is my understanding that most fishing in the UK is private - owned either by the property owner or rented out to groups or guests at the property. Not sure they have the huge state and national parks that we do where anyone with a license can fish.

If going in March of early April I would check on the heating part of the mod cons.

Also it is my understanding that most fishing in the UK is private - owned either by the property owner or rented out to groups or guests at the property. Not sure they have the huge state and national parks that we do where anyone with a license can fish.

Thinking May or June.

"it is my understanding that most fishing in the UK is private "

That is correct, but it is often possible to purchase a "beat" from an agent. Coarse fishing (other than salmonid) is less trouble.

Thanks folks for the additional information. Will anyone speak for the West Country?

Oh -- of course -- walking the Southwest Coastal path can be glorious

http://www.nationaltrail.co.uk/south-west-coast-path

http://www.southwestcoastpath.org.uk

Yes, I did a bit of it years ago. Was also thinking of the South Downs Way. Surprised Dartmoor hasn't drawn a comment.

While I think Yorkshire is a fine idea, I'd also suggest you look at East Anglia, in particular Suffolk with its picturesque villages and varied landscapes. Depending on when you visit, the weather and conditions might be more amenable to outdoors activities than farther north, and there's certainly no shortage of nice places to stay.

I wouldn't get too hung up on the weather side of things. I've lived half my life in Suffolk and half in North Yorkshire, and there really isn't a lot of difference temperature wise, especially when you plan to visit. The spring flowers can be a bit behind in Yorkshire.
We actually used to get more snow in Suffolk than we've had up here!
Suffolk certainly gets the thatched cottage tick, but I don't think it meets your other requirements nearly as well. However, if Suffolk does interest you then Lavenham would be a great base. That part of Suffolk is 'gently rolling' and definitely not flat.

Morgana, you give absolutely the best advice and information. Thank you so much.

I've long wanted to do a Yorkshire walk of the kind you describe and you've re-ignited the interest. Now to find the time to get to England again. This would be trip #12, possibly next year.

>>Depending on when you visit, the weather and conditions might be more amenable to outdoors activities than farther north,<<

I wouldn't pick on the basis of potential weather. Occasionally some spot in far norther Scotland is the warmest place in the entire country -- sometimes it is bitterly cold w/ in East Anglia w/ winds off the Wash/North Sea . . . could be any sort of wether anywhere.

The reason I didn't recommend Dartmoor is because you mentioned not being as fit as before and Dartmoor is awfully hilly.

What kind words Mathieu. Thank you
We do a lot of walking, mainly in the Dales and Moors. I live in the Dales but can see the hills of the Moors from my upstairs back windows. We are planning to head out tomorrow to Walden but the weather looks a little dicey.
I completely understand what the OP is looking for too. We sometimes come across old 'Monk's Trods' when we walk, and I love using them. Who knows if Monks really used them to stop their clothes dragging in the mud? You can still see and sense their great age.

http://www.yorkshire-milestones.co.u...east-yorkshire

Dartmoor is mostly waste (a technical term in landscape studies), though its perimeter's got more cultivation and light habitation. The moor itself really wouldn't be high in most people's lists of great places for middle-aged walking. It's also seriously dangerous if weather gets bad (possible almost any time of the year, often with very little notice), and there's little by way of cosy pubs or other kinds of shelter.

Definitely a drive-by (or drive-through), with a little light strolling to some of the lesser-known prehistoric sites scattered around the moor.

But apart from Dartmoor and Exmoor (similar reservations), slightly more lowland Devon and Somerset (including the two moors' peripheries) are stuffed with areas just as well-suited as Yorks or Suffolk to Cotswold-style pottering between 5-10 mile walks and a little light driving from pretty village to cosy pub to nice cottage.

They also get spring earlier than Yorks or Suffolk - and generally have lusher vegetation.