England/Scotland-winter 2009


Sunday Feb. 1-The alarm was set for 5:25, but I awoke just past 5:00. By 6:20 I was off to the shuttle pick up point, a two-hour drive. As I headed inland it became foggy and frosty unlike the coast, which was clear. I parked the car at the pick up spot, paid for 11 days of parking and boarded the 8:30 bus to the San Francisco Airport. Being Sunday, the traffic was light and the sun emerged allowing for a bright, uneventful trip. We arrived at 10:15 and by 10:40 I was through security and had a beer, more to kill time than anything else. The check-in counter monitor stated that boarding would commence at 11:45 for the 12:31pm departure.

The flight was less than two-thirds full allowing extra room for all in economy plus. No one sat either in front or behind me. We backed out from the gate a few minutes early and were in the air at 12:48. The flight was smooth, the food better than normal and I slept for three hours. After landing at Heathrow, I would then take a BMI flight to Edinburgh at 8:40.

Monday Feb 2- all was well until around 6:30 am when the captain announced that Heathrow airport was snowed in and landing was not being permitted. So off to Amsterdam, where we parked for an hour or so. The pilot then informed us the plane was being taken out of service and flights would not be going to Heathrow until the next day. Groans and more groans. We were all bused to immigration and customs.

We were directed to the United Airlines help desk to sort things out. What a mad house. Fortunately I was the seventh in line as a lot of passengers had to get their checked luggage prior to lining up for assistance. It took an hour to be given a KLM ticket to Edinburgh, and then had to walk to Terminal 2; where I presented my United issued ticket and was, in turn, issued one by KLM. Well, I was now informed that I still had to get a boarding pass. So off to another line to finally get a boarding pass around 12:45. I had until 2:20 for actual boarding for the 3:10 flight. Time for good beer and a sandwich. Alas, I realized that I didn’t have any Euros. Only dollars and pounds. They accepted my Visa. The flight to Edinburgh was a good one and I managed to sleep some.

We arrived in Edinburgh at 3:20, due to the one-hour time difference, and I then realized just how tired I had become. Lots and lots of snow on the ground, which didn’t seem to cause a problem for landing. I presented my passport for the third time at immigration and was allowed in Edinburgh. Rather than wait for a bus, I opted for a taxi to Waverly train station. It snowed off and on but we made good time. At the station I purchased a ticket to North Berwick for 5.10 pounds and found the platform and then, another quirk for this trip as everyone started walking away, across the station, up stairs, down stairs and finally boarded the waiting train. Does it even end? On arrival at North Berwick I followed instruction from the B&B owner and knocked on the door around 6:00. My room was on the ground floor and the owner asked if I had other luggage? I told her, no, just my gym bag. We only spoke for a couple of minutes, got instructions to a pub, washed up and went out the door to be greeted by a howling wind. Found a nice pub, but they weren’t serving food so based on recommendations I ended up at a small steak house for a decent meal with wine.

Tuesday Feb 3 – I slept for 10 hours with wild dreams followed by a filling breakfast. Later, in a cold, wet wind I walked back to the train station to have my rail pass validated. However, as it turned out, it was an unmanned station with only a ticket machine. I couldn’t purchase a ticket ahead of time but figured out how to work the ticket machine. I returned to the B&B to thaw out before resuming my walk into the village. I walked past the post office as it had a sign at about knee level and I just totally missed seeing it. An elderly lady walked me to the front door where, once in, I purchased a phone card and a few stamps. A bit further down the road I stopped at the Ship Inn, a chilly pub, for a pint of Stella and a bowl of hot soup. I returned back to the B&B and slept for a couple of hours. When I woke up I watched the news, mostly about the weather, and then a walked back to town. I found a pay phone booth, called home and my wife was very happy to hear from me. Some friends had called informing her about the bad weather and asked if I had made it to North Berwick.

Later, after another nap, I found a small friendly pub and engaged in good conversation with the locals. Had very good Haddock and chips washed down with a double whisky.

Wednesday Feb 4 – Breakfast at 8:00 and off to the train station at 8:50, purchased my ticket to Edinburgh, and boarded the 9:20 train. It was still very cold but with a filtered sun. The train arrived on time at 9:55 at Waverly station. I walked to the ticket window and had my rail pass validated in about 2 minutes. The train to Aberdeen departed from platform 19 at 10:27 allowing me to become slightly frozen while standing for the 10-minute wait.

It was a nice ride, with few people in first class. On arrival, due to the cold, I decided to take a taxi rather than walk to my friend’s office, located on Union Street. When I arrived her receptionist warmly greeted me and informed me that Sheila was in a meeting and would soon be back I hardly had time for a coffee when she arrived. We soon were off to her home, in the country, for a long chat. I sipped whisky while she started cooking for the dinner that evening. Later her husband, friends and their children arrived We had a marvelous dinner of Roast pork with outstanding baked squash, potatoes, leek and a great cake with ice cream. Not long after dinner the friends departed for home and I was off to bed. This was a fun filled day. It is special to be with friends on a trip like this.

Thursday Feb 5 – We were up at 6:00 and off to the train station by 6:15. It was snowing and Sheila drove like the wind, getting me safely there. Prior to 7:00 I was reviewing my options for departures South. The train that fit my needs was the NXEC 7:53 train that was going to London, with stops along the way. I had time for coffee and a banana muffin and staying warm in the station café.

The snow was really coming down and I was happy to be leaving avoiding being snowed in. Later a fellow sat across from me and with his computer we determined that I could board a 10:57 Virgin train from Haymarket (Edinburgh) station to Carlisle. We arrived at Haymarket at 10:20 so I had plenty of time to stand in the cold. Boy, was I happy to board the train. Below Edinburgh the fields had only a dusting of snow, but bitter cold. When we arrived at Carlisle it was warmer, not a lot, but noticeable. I had time for a sandwich and coffee then boarded the two coach Northern train to St. Bee’s located on the Irish Sea. It was only a one-hour or so ride and I enjoyed the rugged coastline.

On arrival I was concerned which direction to take so I asked for direction from two garbage men and one pointed to my B&B, the Stone House Farm, about another 20 feet up the road. I was greeted by a nice lady, who worked at the B&B. She showed me to my large room on the second floor. Speaking of which had a definite slope, however, the bath was level. I asked directions to a good pub and she recommended the Queens, a block uphill from the B&B. I put a few things away, washed up and out the door to the pub.

The pub had recently been renovated and it was nice indeed and had a roaring fire. Soon I was engaged in conversation with the owner and locals. Unlike past trips not one word about politics in America was spoken. Almost as if it would dash hope for a recovery of the economy. Most of the talk centered on the local situation, lack of jobs and the weather. All of this was washed down by first a lager then whisky. The owner set up a table next to a radiator where I had cod and chips. Later I walked carefully down the street to my B&B, which was still chilly as they only turn on the heat at 5:00. I took a very hot shower in the otherwise balmy room of about 63 degrees. Quickly I dried off and headed to my warm bed. I sat the alarm for 6:30, turned on the TV and fell asleep by 8:00.

Friday Feb 6 – The alarm was difficult to find as I was totally out. I finally managed to turn it off and start a new day. It was cold in my room, surprise, and I quickly shaved, dressed, packed and then went down stairs for breakfast. By 7:50 I paid for the night, 30 pounds, and was off to the train station. Well, it hadn’t warmed up and the street was covered in ice. Three teenaged girls showed up wearing the skimpiest clothes and seemed impervious to the cold. We all boarded and off again.


We arrived in Carlisle allowing me to walk up and over the tracks to platform 4 where the 9:33 Northern train was waiting for the ride back to the Eastern side of England at Newcastle. We passed through Hadrian’s Wall territory stopping at Haltwhistle, a place I had been before. We had full sun, but a sun that provided little heat. It sure was a nice change from the clouds and snow. After we arrived in Newcastle I checked out the departure board and could have just made an express train to York, but instead, opted for a later, Transpernine train that made stops including Northallerton, a place that I wanted to see. They actually had a half car first class section, new and clean, a definite upgrade from the Northern trains.

At York I had a sandwich at a pub at the station. It wasn’t great, but filling. I had stayed at the St. Mary’s B&B located on Longfield Terrace before and remembered the unusual shortcut from the train station, down the lane by the main post office building, up the railroad bridge path, down and under the bridge and the path on the left. Voila!
The B&B, a piece of cake. At the B&B I was greeted by Caroline, a friendly lady, who worked there. She just bubbled with an earnest welcome. As we chatted and having been showed my room, same as last time, I asked if there was a laundry service nearby. She replied “nearer than you think, just give me what you have and I will leave it on your bed”. I gave my heartfelt thanks and came up with two shirts, tee shirt, socks and underwear. Just think, the only things needing wash was what I was wearing. As I left to check out the suggested Bay Horse pub, I left 4 pounds on my bed with a thank you note.

The pub was recently renovated in December after having being closed for four years. It was large and busy with a separate room that had a large screen TV showing only sports. I had a drink and walked into town back to the Punch Bowl, a pub I liked from a past trip. Later, after a couple of drinks I walked back to the Bay Horse for dinner, a not so good one. I was able to watch the rugby matches. After my meal I returned to my B&B and had a chat with Barry, the owner. When I opened the door to my room my clothes were freshly done and neatly folded on the bed. I packed them away, took a shower, and during the never-ending news about the weather, I fell asleep.

Saturday Feb 7 – After 10 hours of great sleep I had my breakfast at 8:00 and more chit chat with Barry. I was the only one eating at that time; however, he said he had only two couples that were eating later at 9:00. A little later I walked back to the train station where I took a high-speed train up to Darlington, only 25 minutes or so. I had 35 minutes before my train to Shildon. Much to my surprise the station had a first class lounge providing upholstered furniture, coffee and wrapped cookies. The TV was on a news station.

I boarded the on time, very old, two coach train to the Locomotion Railroad Museum in Shildon. When I debarked it was about a third of a mile hike through melting snow and with new snow falling in a high wind to the main museum building. Boy, what a neat collection of engines and coaches. I really enjoyed it, and after my fill I had a snack and coffee at the museum café. Returning toward, but past the train station, is a collection of train buildings, including the old repair shed, painting shed, and several others. They were all unheated and one didn’t stay long.

I walked back to the train station rechecking the return to Darlington, which was at 1:31. I had arrived at the tracks a half hour early and the weather was bloody bitter. I saw the train coming from Darlington to the end of this short line, boarded it and got out of the cold to the end of the line at Bishop Auckland. We only stayed five minutes and the train headed back toward Shildon and then Darlington. We arrived at 1:55 and across the tracks were an express Cross Country train ready to depart to London with a stop at York.

I must be getting a feel for York, as I had no problem in walking to the Minster to Bootham and toward an area that had one of the slowly disappearing phone booths. Actually, before I got there, as I was walking, I noticed a sign indicating Marygate, an area not far from my B&B. As I turned, lo, a phone booth! I called home and then proceeded down the street, which lead back to the Bay Horse pub where I had had dinner the night before. I ordered a meal that they couldn’t mess up; soup and a cheese sandwich. I watched Scotland lose the rugby match; sorry Sheila, had a nightcap, and made my way back to my awaiting bed.

Sunday Feb 8 – Another good and filling breakfast followed by a walk to the train station to check out the schedule for trains to Leeds. Within five minutes I was off on a new Transpernine train only taking half hour. In Leeds I grabbed a taxi to the Armories museum. This museum has a large collection of medieval, Asian, and modern armor as well as displays of the American west, prohibition and lots of arms from various wars.

I had seen much of this with my wife and son about 15 years ago when it was housed at the Tower of London. So much to see, but after awhile it begins to all blend together. Just around the time my interest was beginning to wane, I noticed two women each, with a male child of two-to-three years old. As I was passing them one of the kids went into a rage, crying, kicking and having a real good fit. After a few minutes the mother was able to control him and once that was over the other child decided that it was his turn. Down he went.

I spent two and a half hours exploring, had lunch and then phoned for a taxi and was soon back at Leeds train station. Leeds station is huge with stairs and escalators everywhere. I noted that a train was departing back to York from platform 9d. I looked and looked, but was unable to locate 9a let alone 9d. Finally I asked for assistance and rode an escalator up, walked a bit and then down and a longish walk to the train. I made it with three minutes to spare on this a more local, used and abused train.

I spent the rest of the day at the “Hole in the Wall” pub located just inside the main gate not far from Bootham. It was packed with tourists and they were doing a lot of meals. Around 5:00 I had the good roast beef Sunday special and later on walked back to Marygate, had a nightcap at the Bay Horse. Had a nice sleep.

Monday Feb 9 – Caroline cooked and served me my breakfast and ran my credit card for 126 pounds for the 3 nights lodging. When I left the B&B it wasn’t hard to realize that a light snow had fallen then froze. I took baby steps all the way to the station arriving at 9:45. The departure board indicated a 10:06 NXEC train to Kings Cross in London. When I boarded, all seats had a reservation slips on them, but I sat anyway, had a coffee and waited for someone to claim the seat. No one did. As we traveled I noticed that finally the fields were free of snow.

London was its usual mad house but I managed to purchase a ticket to Paddington station. Once at Paddington, I went to the Charles Dickens pub; a place I had been before. Had a larger and sandwich then headed off to the Hyde Park Darlington Hotel on Sussex Gardens. I had the same room as before, a very warm one without the heater being on. As before I placed folded pieced of paper between the window and sash to stop them from banging in the wind. As I looked out the window I noticed that it was pouring so I decided on a nap and news. I only slept for a short time and then got caught up in an old Stewart Granger movie called “Blanch Fury”. After he was hanged, I put on my jacket, pulled the hood up, placed my baseball cap solidly on my head and headed out to the nearest pub. Drinks were a third or so more but were to be expected in a tourist area. After a drink or two I had a very good baked chicken dinner that came with carrots, potatoes and Yorkshire pudding, which I am starting to have a taste for. As I sat, the different number of languages being spoken amazed me. I helped a French family who were struggling with the menu. They pointed to my remaining dinner and I replied first in French then English. They all ended up having the chicken dinner. On my walk back to my room the weather had improved.

Tuesday Feb 10 – This is my last full day on this trip, but first a word about the hotel. It is not necessary inexpensive but it is very clean and convenient to Paddington station and it serves a very good full breakfast.

Later that morning I walked to the station to find an ATM as I was down to three pounds. I wasn’t sure how much I would be spending so opted for 100 pounds. Purchased a zone 4-travel card on the underground to Colindale station down the Northern line. I had to make two changes but got there without a problem. At Colindale I walked the half mile to the RAF museum I had visited it around 15 years ago with my wife and son. I wandered, seeing planes from WWI and WWII as well as many others. Two hours later I had a bite and managed to return to Paddington with only one transfer. When I got back to the hotel a maid was cleaning my room and finished within five minutes from the time I returned. I rested, but didn’t sleep, watched news and at 4:00 I phoned home for the last time.

I returned back to the same pub as the day before and they were just as busy. Next to my table were six Italian guys on their second round of hamburgers. Boy could they ever put it away. I relaxed, made my daily notes, read the paper, ate, and returned back to the hotel. I left a wake up call for 6:30.


Wednesday Feb 11 – The alarm rang and then the phone wake up call followed. I put on the water kettle for instant coffee, dressed and packed my remaining stuff. I put on my last clean socks and a clean shirt. Checked out and walked the street under clear skies to Paddington Station for the Express train to Heathrow. I still had one day remaining on my rail pass so sat in the first class coach.

By 7:40 I arrived at the United Airlines check-in area in Terminal 1. I approached the check in machine, thought I had done it correctly, but it said I had a problem. I asked for assistance and once again it came up stating I had a problem. I was directed to the regular check-in counter. So, after a few minutes I made it to the counter where I was informed that “we” had a problem. I was directed to the help desk just a few feet away. When I gave him my passport he stated that they didn’t have a record of me landing at Heathrow! Duh. I explained what had happened and soon had my boarding pass.

I went through security and enjoyed a better than expected breakfast. Later purchased a tee shirt for Julie at the Harrods’s store. (Last of the big spenders). Boarding started and ended early. My seat had the room of an emergency exit but it wasn’t. However, it was just behind the United crews enclosed seats. I sat next to a University of California professor returning from giving speeches in Berlin and Cork. It was an uneventful flight, just very long.

We arrived on time, cleared customs and then had half an hour to kill prior to my 2:30 shuttle pick-up. It was good to be on the ground and moving closer to home. At 4:00 we pulled into the fairgrounds where I had parked my car only to find that I had a flat tire. I drove slowly to a filling station, paid $.75 for air and filled the tire. On the drive home I stopped three times to make sure the tire was still full, it was. At 6:00 I pulled into the garage.

I was too tired to eat so had a couple of drinks, took a shower and zonked out for a fitful nights sleep. The next day was spent eating and sleeping.

After thoughts on the trip. Yes, it was cold, but I still did what I had planned on doing and I am not the least sorry that I went. Seeing Sheila, her husband and friends was special. I enjoyed the museums and the people on my travels. Next year? Lets wait a while and we shall see.

Really loved your report. You managed a LOT considering the vile weather early this month. And being hosted by sheila/family must have been a great treat. I could feel the chill in my bones when reading about those cold station platforms. Can't you try the next trek in a warmer month??

(I <i>could</i> post a snarky comment about a certain fellow fodorite but will resist the temptation. Suffice it to say it is really great to read about what one actually saw on a rail adventure, instead of just the nuts/bolts of rail passes)

Hi rogeruktm, thanks for the report!

You write you bought a ticket for going from Kings Cross to Paddington. Was that on the tube? How does one make that connection?

Have you been to the flight museum in North Berwick? That's on my plan for this April.

Cheers!

Yes, by tube. Didn't know about the flight museum, guess I have a reason to go back.

http://www.nms.ac.uk/museumofflighthomepage.aspx

Okay, guess it is actually located in East Fortune. I have North Berwick on the mind because it is on a bus route between North Berwick and Haddington. Cheers.

I enjoyed your winter trip report, Roger.

How much did your first class train pass cost, Roger? Does it cost the same year-round?

Carrybean, My 8 day 1st class ticket cost me, I think, $445. If you travel during the Winter you get a 20% discount...Nov/Feb. As a senior I get additional discounts on other passes. What you might want to do is to go to one of the web sites for Britrail passes and check them out as they have all sorts of them. I normally use Rick Steves, but last year I used Budget European travel.

roger

Thank you. I enjoyed your report immensely. For me it really caught the atmosphere of the trains' winter journeys. I've travelled many of those routes too and you helped me visualise what you saw out those carriage windows on frosty and snowy days.

bill

Thanks, Roger. Sounds like a good price to me.

Thanks for sharing your adventure, Roger! We're still deciding about when to take a train and when to rent a car. It's nice to hear of the actual experiences.

Thanks all for your nice replies. Janis, Winter travel is the key to it all. Part of the adventure for an aging man.

Now for next year. Thinking of a re-visit to the Boarders. Took a bus from Berwick upon Tweed to Melrose, then to Carlisle. Spent the night in Melrose.

Suffice it to say it is really great to read about what one actually saw on a rail adventure, instead of just the nuts/bolts of rail passes)>

Oh janis you just could not pass up the chance to put in a dig - try to become a less protagonistic person please!

Roger, just read your trip report and throughly enjoyed your comments. You may well have shamed me into completing my report on my fall train trip ( London-Edinburgh-Rannoch Moor-Oban). The weather was obviously dreadful but as you pointed out it shouldn't keep one from traveling and doing what they set out to do.

historytraveler; I await your report. I was going to spend the night at the hotel in Rannoch, but they didn't re-open until a week after my trip. In the past I did Oban, then the Citylink bus to Ft. William and then onto Inverness.

I'm working on it( trip report). Maybe you can get to the Rannoch Moor Hotel on a future trip. I highly recommend it.